Cantilever brake sticking on drive side
06-13-14, 09:19 AM
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Cantilever brake sticking on drive side
The Tektro Oryx rear cantilever on my 2011 LHT fails to return on the drive side after hard braking, sticking to the rim.
If I roll the bike forward, or pull down gently at the pivot point, it will free up with a kind of "dong" sound.
I have lubricated the pivot and checked the cable for fraying and see nothing amiss.
When I detach the cable, it seems to move perfectly freely.
Any suggestions?
If I roll the bike forward, or pull down gently at the pivot point, it will free up with a kind of "dong" sound.
I have lubricated the pivot and checked the cable for fraying and see nothing amiss.
When I detach the cable, it seems to move perfectly freely.
Any suggestions?
06-13-14, 09:26 AM
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If the brake moves ok with the cable off, it sounds like the cable is the problem. Have you ever changed the brake cables and housing?
06-13-14, 09:33 AM
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I haven't changed cables and housing.
But it seems to me that the non-drive side would also be hanging up if I had a bad cable. Is that not the case?
But it seems to me that the non-drive side would also be hanging up if I had a bad cable. Is that not the case?
06-13-14, 09:39 AM
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OK. Here's some more information.
When the cable is detached, the arm seems to move freely, but when I press it hard against the rim, it sticks.
When the cable is detached, the arm seems to move freely, but when I press it hard against the rim, it sticks.
06-13-14, 09:57 AM
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Sounds like something is binding in the return spring or post. If you remove the wheel, you may be able to feel it as you move the canti arm past where it would touch the rim. Removing the arm and giving the innards a good cleaning and lube might be all it takes to fix it. Nice easy job that won't affect the adjustment (no need to loosen or remove the brake pad).
06-13-14, 10:09 AM
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Kopsis may have this right. Take it apart, wipe everything off and then grease it all up, including the spring. See what happens then.
06-13-14, 10:41 AM
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It sounds to me like you may have the brake pad mounted too low, so that it has developed a lip which is now catching under the rim. Rolling the bike lets it pop loose by moving the rim under it.
06-13-14, 10:43 AM
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06-13-14, 10:44 AM
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06-13-14, 10:52 AM
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I'll try the Knopsis approach. I think the alignment is OK. Thanks for all the suggestions.
06-13-14, 11:22 AM
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06-13-14, 04:58 PM
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If the brake pads shows uneven wear and develops a lip, you could file it flat with a rasp or file. Otherwise just get new pads.
06-16-14, 10:26 AM
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It was the spring tension adjustment.
I took the brake off, checked the pad for uneven wear, cleaned and lubed the pivot mechanism. After reinstalling, it still stuck.
But with the wheel out, I noticed that the spring tension was lighter than the other side. There is a tiny hex screw for adjusting the tension, which I had overlooked before because it was dirty. A couple turns, and voila!
I took the brake off, checked the pad for uneven wear, cleaned and lubed the pivot mechanism. After reinstalling, it still stuck.
But with the wheel out, I noticed that the spring tension was lighter than the other side. There is a tiny hex screw for adjusting the tension, which I had overlooked before because it was dirty. A couple turns, and voila!
06-16-14, 11:16 AM
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I just corrected a similar issue with my Shimano 105 brakes. Turns out the mounting nut wasn't screwing in tightly because after screwing beyond a certain point, the holding nut on the front of the brake would move too. I had to hold the front nut with a wrench and then tighten the mounting nut to get it tight enough.(I know you solved your own problem, but just in case anyone comes across this in future!)
