Adjusting Saddle Angle - Sumo USE Seatpost
07-03-22, 08:54 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Texas, USA
Posts: 10
Bikes: Cannondale SIX 13 Slice ; Diamondback Serios AF
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Adjusting Saddle Angle - Sumo USE Seatpost
Hey All,
I'm trying to dial in a new saddle on a bike with a Sumo USE 300 seat post.
Having trouble adjusting the saddle angle; I can't get the brackets (that hold the seat rails) to rotate. They appear "froze".
After using a penetrant and channel locks to try rotate the brackets, they still aren't budging. All I've managed to do is score the metal (appears to be aluminum).
Am I wrong, but I assumed the brackets rotate because of the "angle adjust" markings on the head assembly (-3 to +3).
Anyone seen this issue before? Are there penetrants specifically for aluminum parts? Do I need to just put more muscle into this? I don't want to ruin the seat post.
Tried to post pics but the forum won't let me. Any help much appreciated!
Best,
Bill
I'm trying to dial in a new saddle on a bike with a Sumo USE 300 seat post.
Having trouble adjusting the saddle angle; I can't get the brackets (that hold the seat rails) to rotate. They appear "froze".
After using a penetrant and channel locks to try rotate the brackets, they still aren't budging. All I've managed to do is score the metal (appears to be aluminum).
Am I wrong, but I assumed the brackets rotate because of the "angle adjust" markings on the head assembly (-3 to +3).
Anyone seen this issue before? Are there penetrants specifically for aluminum parts? Do I need to just put more muscle into this? I don't want to ruin the seat post.
Tried to post pics but the forum won't let me. Any help much appreciated!
Best,
Bill
07-03-22, 03:35 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,084
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4205 Post(s)
Liked 3,865 Times
in
2,312 Posts
If this clamp design is what your post has you'll find it difficult to get minor changes of saddle angle. The seat rail holder that fits in the post's "hole" gets stuck with so much surface contact in play. Trek used a similar design for years and many Trek mechanics are happy that Trek has moved onto a more easily adjusted two bolt acting on pivoting cradle. With the older similar design I found after somewhat loosening the clamp's through bolt I would use a punch to break loose the rail holders from the post's hole, maybe also use the punch to tap against the rail right next to the rail holder to move it that small amount sough then tighten the through bolt and see how the seat lines up again. Andy.
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
07-04-22, 07:13 AM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Texas, USA
Posts: 10
Bikes: Cannondale SIX 13 Slice ; Diamondback Serios AF
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thank-you Andrew.
I didn't know how the seat rail holder "attached" to the head assembly. But I used a couple different penetrants (Liquid Wrench and 3in1) and let it set a few hours. I wrapped some heavy duty duct tape around each holder and was able to get the first one off using channel locks w/o any more damage. For the 2nd one, I used a 3/8" round wood piece as a punch and was able to hammer it out.
When I put it back together, I inserted some teflon tape. Doubt it will do any good but can't hurt. Was able to make adjustments and all is ok now.
Agree!. They could have done a better design job,
Best,
Bill
I didn't know how the seat rail holder "attached" to the head assembly. But I used a couple different penetrants (Liquid Wrench and 3in1) and let it set a few hours. I wrapped some heavy duty duct tape around each holder and was able to get the first one off using channel locks w/o any more damage. For the 2nd one, I used a 3/8" round wood piece as a punch and was able to hammer it out.
When I put it back together, I inserted some teflon tape. Doubt it will do any good but can't hurt. Was able to make adjustments and all is ok now.
Agree!. They could have done a better design job,
Best,
Bill
