Can this Downtube dent be saved?
#1
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Can this Downtube dent be saved?
Hi Guys,
There is this Anchor branded (Bridgestone) steel road bike which is their top line model that is for sale locally. The catch is that their is a pretty large dent on the downtube. is this type of dent in this type of location no longer rideable? Looks like it might have fallen on something and bounced around it during shipping since the headtube and fork dont look like they have collision damage. Can this severity of dent be rolled out? Not noticing any actual punctures in the steel but a lot of the sharper edges but would rolling this out potentially cause that? The steel looks to be custom made judging from the way it connects to the head tube, would that make replacing the downtube with conventional lugged steel a no go? Is it possible to just cut out and replace the damaged section? Appreciate any advice.
There is this Anchor branded (Bridgestone) steel road bike which is their top line model that is for sale locally. The catch is that their is a pretty large dent on the downtube. is this type of dent in this type of location no longer rideable? Looks like it might have fallen on something and bounced around it during shipping since the headtube and fork dont look like they have collision damage. Can this severity of dent be rolled out? Not noticing any actual punctures in the steel but a lot of the sharper edges but would rolling this out potentially cause that? The steel looks to be custom made judging from the way it connects to the head tube, would that make replacing the downtube with conventional lugged steel a no go? Is it possible to just cut out and replace the damaged section? Appreciate any advice.
#2
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Sorry I realized after hitting the submit button that the frame is not really C&V. Please move me if necessary. Apologies for the error.
#3
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It's steel. It is close enough! And the question is interesting.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
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#4
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Cool frame, shame about the damage. Would guess it was caused by this method of locking to a rack.
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I wouldn't bother with it.
#6
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Not worth the trouble you think? Guy is selling for cheap so i figured since its a top end frame might be worth fixing it for my sister.
#7
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The appearance of the exposed metal suggests aluminum.
a hard knock life. I think ready for minimal use if that.
a hard knock life. I think ready for minimal use if that.
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Don't think so, unless it's bonded. The rear triangle looks to be steel given the way the dropouts and the bb are attached. The front triangle has really interesting construction. This is one bike where I would support removing the paint so I can see how it was made. The frame might be okay as a rider, hard to tell from here.
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I'd pass. I'd always wonder about the integrity of the frame which would diminish my enjoyment of the ride.
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The strength of a tube is in the round shape. The round shape here has mostly gone.
A can of soda with this kind of dent, if standing on it, it would probably collapse.
A can of soda with this kind of dent, if standing on it, it would probably collapse.
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#12
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I don't know what you paid for that frame but I don't think it's safe to ride. I wouldn't ride it.
But what do I know ?
/markp
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#13
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Rash of heavily dented downtubes today. Both could be fixed, and I typically am in favor of saving dented frames, both don't appear to be worth saving.
I'm glad this one was posted, I think I remember Bridgestone doing hydroformed tube ends like this? edit: Yep, found this online.
I'm glad this one was posted, I think I remember Bridgestone doing hydroformed tube ends like this? edit: Yep, found this online.
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I can't speak to the repair prospects but as someone mentioned, this. was a top end frame at some point, and old top end frames are surprisingly easy to come by and often affordable. There are likely several for sale near you right now, if a quality frame for your sister is your main goal. Unless there is something particularly special about this frame that your or her were looking for, it seems like an easy pass to me.
#15
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One way to fix it is with blocks.
Watch this video.
Watch this video.
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#17
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Good points for walking away all around, I shall follow your advice. But first, one final question. Say I made him a ridiculous and reasonable (given the state of the frame) offer, how low would that be? 5 bucks? 10 bucks? I realize passing = 0 bucks but sometimes when a super low number is presented things may change slightly. I am aware this sounds like I'm talking myself into the buy but fear not I will pass. This is just for curiosity sake like say maybe stripping down the paint to see how it was built .
Also wondering why, if you think this could be saved, why it would not be worth saving? Would it be because you could never get the structural integrity back or would it be purely a cost thing? Yes the bike you posted is this model. They offer it as the Bridgestone RNC7 up until a year or so and they seem to go for hefty prices on auctions. I have never heard of hydroformed steel outside of this. The end result is quite pretty imo.
Here is a youtube vid showing their reverse ish butting at 1:52 and hydroforming. I guess they keep the internal width the same while contouring the external section. I dont speak Japanese but I think that might be a 1.7kg frame (1:09)?
Rash of heavily dented downtubes today. Both could be fixed, and I typically am in favor of saving dented frames, both don't appear to be worth saving.
I'm glad this one was posted, I think I remember Bridgestone doing hydroformed tube ends like this? edit: Yep, found this online.
I'm glad this one was posted, I think I remember Bridgestone doing hydroformed tube ends like this? edit: Yep, found this online.
Here is a youtube vid showing their reverse ish butting at 1:52 and hydroforming. I guess they keep the internal width the same while contouring the external section. I dont speak Japanese but I think that might be a 1.7kg frame (1:09)?
Last edited by LeSexyFishorse; 08-08-23 at 10:25 AM.
#18
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Good points for walking away all around, I shall follow your advice. But first, one final question. Say I made him a ridiculous and reasonable (given the state of the frame) offer, how low would that be? 5 bucks? 10 bucks? I realize passing = 0 bucks but sometimes when a super low number is presented things may change slightly. I am aware this sounds like I'm talking myself into the buy but fear not I will pass. This is just for curiosity sake like say maybe stripping down the paint to see how it was built .
Also wondering why, if you think this could be saved, why it would not be worth saving?
Also wondering why, if you think this could be saved, why it would not be worth saving?
Any frame is fixable, given enough time and money. If you can find the same or similar frame for the cost of fixing a broken one, why fix it?
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Don't think so, unless it's bonded. The rear triangle looks to be steel given the way the dropouts and the bb are attached. The front triangle has really interesting construction. This is one bike where I would support removing the paint so I can see how it was made. The frame might be okay as a rider, hard to tell from here.
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I think that frame's name is entirely accurate now.
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Looks like an aluminum frame. It also looks like only one side of the tube is crushed, meaning that the head tube may still be in alignment.
My simple fix would be to first insure that the head tube is in alignment. I would then strip off all the paint from the down tube and inspect the tube inside and out for cracks. I would then take a half round sleeve of aluminum and Alumiweld it onto the out side of the tube.
Just a thought.
It certainly would look better then using a piece of angle iron the length of the tube fixed in place with hose clamps... Ha
My simple fix would be to first insure that the head tube is in alignment. I would then strip off all the paint from the down tube and inspect the tube inside and out for cracks. I would then take a half round sleeve of aluminum and Alumiweld it onto the out side of the tube.
Just a thought.
It certainly would look better then using a piece of angle iron the length of the tube fixed in place with hose clamps... Ha
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#22
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Is this frame worth the risk? If it is steel, my answer is a firm "no." If it is aluminum, my answer is a loud "hell, no.)
But then, I'm allergic to pain, like my teeth where they are and do not enjoy the sound or sensation of bones breaking. YMMV.
But then, I'm allergic to pain, like my teeth where they are and do not enjoy the sound or sensation of bones breaking. YMMV.
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