albrt 

I'm from the future. This is how all repairs of plastic parts are done after we run out of hydrocarbons.

truthseeker14

As I once overheard a plastics engineer say, "never underestimate the properties of wood, glass, or metal"

Vintage Schwinn

GREAT JOB!

Richard the Dean Anderson has announced that you have been awarded the highly acclaimed Bachelors of Bodging degree from MacGyver University.

Now with that neat looking wood, you might wanna get a new reproduction Schwinn JAGUAR decal to place somewhere on your bike......get a leather seat and you'll be all set........ ......If only someone like Ricardo Montalban was still around to do the advertising on television, the web, and in print. In early 1965, Elmo Lewis Schwinn had proposed a luxury model using decorative wood accents such as seen in English luxury cars, but E.L. Schwinn was ostracized from the Chicago Schwinn operations when he married Katherine Ann Murray of Ohio in June 1965.

truthseeker14

Thanks! Elmo may have been on to something. Wood accented bicycles would be a niche market but might attract enough buyers to make it sustainable. bar end plugs, racks, thumb shift levers, etc., that could look quite classy.

And Katherine Ann Murray, as in Murray Bicycles?

CountryJustice

Hi all! I'm working on a ca.1970 Suburban and ran into a hurdle. One of the nuts that holds the front brake caliper to the fork is overtorqued, seized and the corners pretty well rounded. I'm gonna basically have to brute-force it off (I'm removing the fenders temporarily to reshape them, otherwise I'd probably not bother) but I don't know what size/tpi I need to look for in a replacement. Weimann specs I've found for the L.S. 2.4 side-pull caliper doesn't seem to include this info.

It's such a tiny part, but I want to get it right. Can anyone help with this? Thanks!

Gertrude

I replace the shoddy stock pot metal cylinder as a matter of routine,
using something case hardened
such as a screw body shoulder which is as close to .2" as I can find.
You will need a final cylinder size of .195" Diameter
by .32" Length. Drill and tap for a small set screw at one end to
intersect and drive against the solid cable, which cable hole needs to be .093".
I use a 4-48 set screw about 3/16" long driven into tapped hole which terminates
a bit past intersecting the .093 bore hole for the cable. Loc tite blue once a 'set' is established
between screw chamfer tip and solid cable.

As such you have the ability to remove the cable from casing etc., should you
need to salvage a better casing or what not. So far it works reliably, no slippage, stays perfectly adjusted.



The stock tab is a poor design which is destined to crumble, I have found,

truthseeker14

Your post made me think of some of my engineering professors. When I would listen to their lectures, I had a hard time understanding what they were saying, and I thought that it must be my lack of intelligence. But after looking at it objectively, I realized that they just were not good at explaining things and just may not have been very competent lecturers. Your post sounds like you might have a good idea, but I'm guessing since it's not possible to understand exactly what you're talking about.

Gertrude

I am describing a workaround for a small shifter part,
which one forum user (Groover) had mentioned earlier in this thread,
that had broken on his FFS Suburban.

This part, or rather, component, of the Positron solid wire shifter cable unit,
is the cable stop end slug, which fits into the Positron shift handle.
The failure prone component is a cylinder which measures .32" by .195".
When this component lets go of the solid wire cable, you need to buy an entire cable,
and they are often expensive since it's a discontinued item.
What is worse is that another cable is going to fail sooner than later, in my experience.
I am offering solution to those who understand the problem.



FFS is a niche subject/item, it is therefore understandable to lack understanding of it's flaws.

Normally when a stranded cable shifter end slug breaks, the cable is simply replaced.
Positron, however, uses a solid wire cable, and, rather than spending 30 dollars on another
poorly designed unit, one can easily reattach that cable by fabricating the cylinder
I (attempted to) describe, making two holes in it: one to accept the cable, and one to cinch
that cable in place by means of a set screw.