"Fancy" Carbon Wheels Care & Feeding (Ultegra C36)
06-15-23, 03:52 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
"Fancy" Carbon Wheels Care & Feeding (Ultegra C36)
I've built up a few road bike wheelsets using "traditional" designs like aluminum rims, brass nipples, and J-bend spokes. But I decided to try something different on one of my bikes, and found a great secondhand deal on some new-in-box Ultegra WH-R8170 C36 wheels. They are my first carbon fiber wheelset! The front is a 24h with "traditional" 2-cross lacing on both sides. The rear has 16 spokes 2-cross on the drive side, and 8 radial spokes on the non-drive side.
First off, they have aluminum nipples. How do I make sure these will keep turning through the years and not sieze? Should I drip a little oil between the spoke and nipple, and also between the nipple and rim? Something like Phil Wood tenacious oil? Or something different like boiled linseed oil (I've used that on the spoke threads for the wheels I've built).
Second, I checked the spoke tension with my tension meter (with tires at pressure). I'm getting the following readings
Front
NDS 90kgf / 880N
DS 54kgf / 530N
Rear
NDS 75kgf / 735N
DS 65-80kgf / 640-785N (decent bit of variation on these spokes)
Looking at the shimano service manual for these wheels, this seems low.
So, is there anything I should know for increasing the spoke tension? I have a truing stand and tension meter. I noticed that most of the (bladed) spokes have about 1/8th of a turn of twist from the hub to the nipple, so I can fix that too while I'm at it. But having never worked on carbon rims before, I wanted to make sure I know how they react differently to aluminum rims, plus any pitfalls. Is the truing/tensioning process the same?
Cool picture:
First off, they have aluminum nipples. How do I make sure these will keep turning through the years and not sieze? Should I drip a little oil between the spoke and nipple, and also between the nipple and rim? Something like Phil Wood tenacious oil? Or something different like boiled linseed oil (I've used that on the spoke threads for the wheels I've built).
Second, I checked the spoke tension with my tension meter (with tires at pressure). I'm getting the following readings
Front
NDS 90kgf / 880N
DS 54kgf / 530N
Rear
NDS 75kgf / 735N
DS 65-80kgf / 640-785N (decent bit of variation on these spokes)
Looking at the shimano service manual for these wheels, this seems low.
So, is there anything I should know for increasing the spoke tension? I have a truing stand and tension meter. I noticed that most of the (bladed) spokes have about 1/8th of a turn of twist from the hub to the nipple, so I can fix that too while I'm at it. But having never worked on carbon rims before, I wanted to make sure I know how they react differently to aluminum rims, plus any pitfalls. Is the truing/tensioning process the same?
Cool picture:
06-15-23, 07:18 PM
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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For all practical purposes, handle CF rims same as you.do aluminum.
Functionally, rim rigidity matters somewhat, but you won't see much difference in rims made for low spoke counts regardless of material.
There "MAY" be a long term issue of galvanic corrosion between the nipple and CF, but it will depend on details.
I can't advise about oiling the threads, since t his may have been done. I oil threads when building to reduce spoke twist, but use an oil that dries to a sticky consistency.
Overall, use your general experience as a guide. One note, front wheels don't have a drive side. You might be clearer if you referenced right and left instead.
Functionally, rim rigidity matters somewhat, but you won't see much difference in rims made for low spoke counts regardless of material.
There "MAY" be a long term issue of galvanic corrosion between the nipple and CF, but it will depend on details.
I can't advise about oiling the threads, since t his may have been done. I oil threads when building to reduce spoke twist, but use an oil that dries to a sticky consistency.
Overall, use your general experience as a guide. One note, front wheels don't have a drive side. You might be clearer if you referenced right and left instead.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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06-15-23, 08:05 PM
#3
Newbie
I haven't used phil wood tenacious oil, but Boeshield works really well for me. It will displace water and prevent corrosion. I don't know how it affects galvanic corrosion between nipple and rim, but I would assume that it performs well there. I also put in the boltheads by the cockpit that are exposed to sweat drips and pretty much every bolt and pivot after a wash so its very useful to have for your bike. It's on the pricier side, but I can't image anything phil wood not being pricy either.
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