Help me understand my Dura Ace 7400 hub.
#1
With a mighty wind
Thread Starter
Help me understand my Dura Ace 7400 hub.
Before I mess it up.
Got the Uniglide cassette off no worries. Scrubbed the years of nicotine off the body, spokes, and rims. Now it's time to grease the bearings.
The assembly looks the same as most hubs except for some dimpled plastic caps that say "open" and "close".
What is that? A seal? Does it need to be turned to open before I grab the spanners? They're 35 years old and Uniglide, so if I break them, they're gone.
Speaking of Uniglide. Am I correct that according to Sheldon, I cannot do a HG freehub on this? The way I read it was that you can swap 6, 7, and 8 UG bodies but cannot put a HG on for Dura Ace.
So if I want to expand my 13-24 6 speed cluster, I need a Dremel tool, a 7 speed cassette that comes apart, and to guard my 13 tooth threaded cog with my life. This is a pretty cheap and viable option actually if it works.
Got the Uniglide cassette off no worries. Scrubbed the years of nicotine off the body, spokes, and rims. Now it's time to grease the bearings.
The assembly looks the same as most hubs except for some dimpled plastic caps that say "open" and "close".
What is that? A seal? Does it need to be turned to open before I grab the spanners? They're 35 years old and Uniglide, so if I break them, they're gone.
Speaking of Uniglide. Am I correct that according to Sheldon, I cannot do a HG freehub on this? The way I read it was that you can swap 6, 7, and 8 UG bodies but cannot put a HG on for Dura Ace.
So if I want to expand my 13-24 6 speed cluster, I need a Dremel tool, a 7 speed cassette that comes apart, and to guard my 13 tooth threaded cog with my life. This is a pretty cheap and viable option actually if it works.
#2
Senior member
Before I mess it up.
Got the Uniglide cassette off no worries. Scrubbed the years of nicotine off the body, spokes, and rims. Now it's time to grease the bearings.
The assembly looks the same as most hubs except for some dimpled plastic caps that say "open" and "close".
What is that? A seal? Does it need to be turned to open before I grab the spanners? They're 35 years old and Uniglide, so if I break them, they're gone.
Speaking of Uniglide. Am I correct that according to Sheldon, I cannot do a HG freehub on this? The way I read it was that you can swap 6, 7, and 8 UG bodies but cannot put a HG on for Dura Ace.
So if I want to expand my 13-24 6 speed cluster, I need a Dremel tool, a 7 speed cassette that comes apart, and to guard my 13 tooth threaded cog with my life. This is a pretty cheap and viable option actually if it works.
Got the Uniglide cassette off no worries. Scrubbed the years of nicotine off the body, spokes, and rims. Now it's time to grease the bearings.
The assembly looks the same as most hubs except for some dimpled plastic caps that say "open" and "close".
What is that? A seal? Does it need to be turned to open before I grab the spanners? They're 35 years old and Uniglide, so if I break them, they're gone.
Speaking of Uniglide. Am I correct that according to Sheldon, I cannot do a HG freehub on this? The way I read it was that you can swap 6, 7, and 8 UG bodies but cannot put a HG on for Dura Ace.
So if I want to expand my 13-24 6 speed cluster, I need a Dremel tool, a 7 speed cassette that comes apart, and to guard my 13 tooth threaded cog with my life. This is a pretty cheap and viable option actually if it works.
#3
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According to the VeloBase web site there were 8-speed Uniglide/Hyperglide freehub bodies made for the 7400-series Dura Ace hubs as the FH-7403 model. Unfortunately, you are limited to freehub bodies specifically made for the 7400-series hubs as their mounting system is completely different from later 7700 Dura Ace, 105, Ultegra, etc. models.
Here is the VeloBase web page:
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FH-7403 / HB-7400, Dura-Ace 7400 (Hyperglide Rear)
Here is the VeloBase web page:
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FH-7403 / HB-7400, Dura-Ace 7400 (Hyperglide Rear)
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#4
I never finish anyth
I can say with certainty that the 7403 freehub will handle a 10 speed cassette. I had a set of very nice 7400 hubs with a 7401 freehub. Since 7403 freehubs are basically unobtanium, I was lucky enough to pick up a set of donor hubs with a 7403 freehub. To swap the freehubs you will need the special tool, I don't see any way to remove the freehub without it, except for destructive removal. Not recommended. I had to lace the 7403 hub into a wheel to produce enough torque to remove the freehub.
You may have to swap in a longer axle to have the 7403 work with a 10 speed cassette in a frame with 130mm rear dropout spacing. Even if your axle is the proper length for 130mm spacing, the tool to tighten/remove the cassette lockring will not fit over the cone locknut. You just have to tighten the cassette lockring before inserting the axle.
Also, the cone/locknut on the drive side will be recessed into the 7403 freehub, so you'll have to tighten them before inserting the axle and make your preload adjustments on the NDS. Not a big problem, you just have to alter your normal sequence.
You may have to swap in a longer axle to have the 7403 work with a 10 speed cassette in a frame with 130mm rear dropout spacing. Even if your axle is the proper length for 130mm spacing, the tool to tighten/remove the cassette lockring will not fit over the cone locknut. You just have to tighten the cassette lockring before inserting the axle.
Also, the cone/locknut on the drive side will be recessed into the 7403 freehub, so you'll have to tighten them before inserting the axle and make your preload adjustments on the NDS. Not a big problem, you just have to alter your normal sequence.
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#5
With a mighty wind
Thread Starter
Compatible within the 740x line and nothing else?
So I've got the bike together and rideable. It's actually pretty sweet as it sits. I'm going to leave the gearing as andi just not take this into the mountains.
I would like to get the UG freehub body off for lube. It's a 35 year old bike that has sat for 30. I'm absolutely certain that the freehub only has the lube it came with when new. Other than a specific tool that I probably can't get, can it be done? Can I inject light grease into it? Not the axle bearing (cleaned and lubed those already) but the freehub?
So I've got the bike together and rideable. It's actually pretty sweet as it sits. I'm going to leave the gearing as andi just not take this into the mountains.
I would like to get the UG freehub body off for lube. It's a 35 year old bike that has sat for 30. I'm absolutely certain that the freehub only has the lube it came with when new. Other than a specific tool that I probably can't get, can it be done? Can I inject light grease into it? Not the axle bearing (cleaned and lubed those already) but the freehub?
#6
I never finish anyth
I don't think there is realistically any way to remove the freehub without the tool.
I can ship mine to you so that you can use it, as long as you ship it back when you're done. PM if you're interested.
I can ship mine to you so that you can use it, as long as you ship it back when you're done. PM if you're interested.
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Dale, NL4T
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#7
With a mighty wind
Thread Starter
I'll talk to my lbs tomorrow, if they can't do it, we'll make a plan.
#8
I never finish anyth
OK. Before installing it into the hub, I lubed my 7403 by soaking it for a couple of days in a bath of Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil. Then took it out and let it drain for another couple of days. That should take care of it for a very long time.
Interestingly, the Shimano docs for the 7400 hubs say that the threads on the freehub and the threads in the hub should be dry, no oil or grease on either. Seems odd to me not to use something when dissimilar metals are threaded together but I followed their instructions.
Interestingly, the Shimano docs for the 7400 hubs say that the threads on the freehub and the threads in the hub should be dry, no oil or grease on either. Seems odd to me not to use something when dissimilar metals are threaded together but I followed their instructions.
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#9
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#10
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Lathe Chuck Key
The other thread is perfect - has sent me looking for 'square key steel' and I found a hardened steel tool quality lathe key - have used a bench grinder and ground it slight flatter at end to flatten end chamfer and it has just removed freehub when in a metal vice - perfect!
Lathe Chuck Key Imperial and Metric Variation Square Head Engineering Variation...7/16
see ebay
£8.49!
Lathe Chuck Key Imperial and Metric Variation Square Head Engineering Variation...7/16
see ebay
£8.49!
#11
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I'm glad this thread was revived, as it is timely for me. I just built a wheel with a 7403 hub. Someone led me to believe I could put a 10-speed cassette on. I succeeded, but it was tricky. The last cog stuck out a lot, and it was hard to put the lock ring on. I jiggled a lot to make sure everything was compressed, and eventually, it went on.
Are there lock rings with deeper threads that can make me feel safer? I know it's probably safe enough.
I know I'll need some weird-azz tool to remove the freehub. A friend of mine might have one already.
Are there lock rings with deeper threads that can make me feel safer? I know it's probably safe enough.
I know I'll need some weird-azz tool to remove the freehub. A friend of mine might have one already.
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#12
#13
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It's not an 11-tooth. I know that for sure. I'm pretty sure it's a 12-tooth. And I'm not trying; I succeeded, so it's definitely not an 11-tooth. My freehub looks different from the two you pictured here. It has threads on the end, intended, I believe, for the old style cassette. I understand this was a transition-period hub meant for both styles.
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#14
It's not an 11-tooth. I know that for sure. I'm pretty sure it's a 12-tooth. And I'm not trying; I succeeded, so it's definitely not an 11-tooth. My freehub looks different from the two you pictured here. It has threads on the end, intended, I believe, for the old style cassette. I understand this was a transition-period hub meant for both styles.
#15
It's not an 11-tooth. I know that for sure. I'm pretty sure it's a 12-tooth. And I'm not trying; I succeeded, so it's definitely not an 11-tooth. My freehub looks different from the two you pictured here. It has threads on the end, intended, I believe, for the old style cassette. I understand this was a transition-period hub meant for both styles.
Because of the unique attachment system of the 7400 freehub system, only the 3 body styles designed for the series would attach (HG/UG; 7; or 8 speed UG with the smaller threaded outer sprocket).
As for the question about a longer treaded lockring, some of the 12 speed Shimano road lockrings are a little longer. Possibly because of the way that the outermost sprocket of the 12 speed interfaces with the 'next' sprocket. Also, some other brands of cassette lockrings comes with longer threads, especially aluminum lockrings.
#17
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Thank you, everyone! I will measure the splines. I think I'll see how this lock ring holds up and won't seek a new one. I'll just make sure it's good and tight.
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#18
About removing the freehub body, only necessary if maintenance is needed. Very hard to find a replacement that will work on the 74?? series, and only 1 style 'natively' takes a HG cassette (the one that you seem to already have).
#19
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If the lockring is steel & serrated, and engages a couple of tread, it should be fine. Most of the force in the sprockets are rotational and supported by the splines.
About removing the freehub body, only necessary if maintenance is needed. Very hard to find a replacement that will work on the 74?? series, and only 1 style 'natively' takes a HG cassette (the one that you seem to already have).
About removing the freehub body, only necessary if maintenance is needed. Very hard to find a replacement that will work on the 74?? series, and only 1 style 'natively' takes a HG cassette (the one that you seem to already have).
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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I'm glad this thread was revived, as it is timely for me. I just built a wheel with a 7403 hub. Someone led me to believe I could put a 10-speed cassette on. I succeeded, but it was tricky. The last cog stuck out a lot, and it was hard to put the lock ring on. I jiggled a lot to make sure everything was compressed, and eventually, it went on.
Are there lock rings with deeper threads that can make me feel safer? I know it's probably safe enough.
I know I'll need some weird-azz tool to remove the freehub. A friend of mine might have one already.
Are there lock rings with deeper threads that can make me feel safer? I know it's probably safe enough.
I know I'll need some weird-azz tool to remove the freehub. A friend of mine might have one already.
#21
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[MENTION=544128]DaccordiDolan[/MENTION], if you say the 7403 didn't come in 36h, then I guess my hub is a 7402. It has 36h. So what are you trying to do, and what is going wrong?
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Hi, I think they do 36h - its just i bought one having not even checked spokes etc - I usually use 105 stuff from that era and was to busy trying to get a bargain to check why it was a bargain - my mavic rims are 36 and they are a fancy blue anodised so I wanted to stick to plan - but so far so good - am using the 8sis axle in the 7sp hub and with the 8/9/10spHG...but the hub is a mm or 2 different design - which I am trying to build around...I guess shimano did this for a reason...strength etc not sure - but it is a minor difference so I am hoping slightly longer spokes on drive side will help...I think getting it to central line will be slightly harder - but I gave up when I realised spokes were too short on one side...have now cannibalised another wheel and hoping to get it done - if i had realised I think I would have stuck with the 1056 105 hubs that were on the wheel! Good job I enjoy tinkering as much as cycling! I trust you finished yours and its now on a nice bike? bestw rich