miami_librarian

Any thoughts on how to remove the rusty pedals and crank from this frame?

Iride01 

Pic is pretty tiny. Looks like an old one-piece Ashtabula crank. There should be a big nut on that side shown where the crank arm bends to go to the other side. If that nut can be loosened, then undo it all the way and remove it and all the stuff under it on that side. Before you do that get the chain guard off the other side. Because that's the side the entire crankset removes from after you get the nut and other stuff off the side we are currently looking at.

Been a long time since I've dealt with one. The bearing race or something else under the nut is also threaded IIRC. And as rusty as that is...... good luck!

Consider whether it's worth the effort to save the frame. You'll have to go back with a one-piece crank. The BB shells aren't a match for any normal and common BB, AFAIK. And the adapters to make them compatible with say a BSA BB and crankset are expensive. I tossed the bike I owned for over 40 years because of that fact. And because it weighed 46 lbs as well.

JohnDThompson 

N.B. the nut, and the cone it secures, will be left-hand thread, so clockwise to loosen.

And the pedals will need to be removed before you can pull the crank arms out of the frame. I suspect lots of penetrating oil on all the threaded pieces will be needed, and perhaps judicious application of heat.

soyabean

I started marring my Park Tool PW-4 once, failing to remove pedals that were galvanic welded to aluminum cranks.

I heated the stuck area orange hot with my benzomatic, only THEN it was able to turn - while applying a good 150 ft-lbs on it for the whole time removing it. Not just to break it, but for the the entire time the treads were coming out. I swear, I've removed harder lug nuts much easier.

Andrew R Stewart 

I have used high heat and large impacts on the ends of the crank arms before. Both are on the "last resort" list and replacing after is assumed. Simply cutting the LH arm is easier at this point.

Some tricks before you get this desperate is to secure one side's arm along the chain stay with strong strapping (old toe clip strap) doubled or tripled around both then work on the other side's pedal. If you can remove the pedal cage, leaving the axle in the arm, a pipe wrench with extension can be used on the axle. Take care with the exposed chain ring teeth and your hands Andy

maddog34

1... cut the nut side crank arm instead of messing with trying to remove the pedals from the crank.

2... put penetrating oil on the large nut, then use the proper size wrench on it.

3.... discover that the cone nut under the large nut is also rusted in place.

4.... hope the darn thing comes loose... (it probably won't).Hint: Heat is your Friend... LOTS of Heat.

5... decide to cut your losses.

6... toss that old piece of scrap onto a pile of other scrap, and quit wasting time and money on it.

7... walk away in a much better mood... and confident that you made the correct choice... finally.

Bill Kapaun

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html

Vintage Schwinn

Iride01 usually is totally correct with his advice but this is one of those rare occasions where he is not.
That is an excellent frame.
You do want to continue with an Ashtabula ONE PIECE CRANK!
Who gives a she yet if that coaster brake cruisers weighs 46+ pounds? It isn't an effen racing bike and your not gonna use it in an IRONMAN or at the Tour de France!

You typically need a 12 inch (300mm) crescent wrench of the lowest cost.........HARBOR FREIGHT approx about $9 or Wallyworld for about $11.
The jaws need to open wide enough to fit the large crank nut------------------this is why you do need the 12 INCH crescent wrench.

My advice to you is to use penetrating oil, or if you already have some automatic transmission fluid to apply there and then wait several days for it to penetrate.
Seriously though I do believe that you can probably remove the nut WITHOUT any penetrating oil.
*****You can use a HAMMER to bang the crescent wrench handle........yeah it works and it does not eff up the crescent wrench since it is quality strong steel...
WEAR EYE PROTECTION and protect your face too because there is a risk that the crescent wrench could fly off the nut when you wack the hell out of it with the hammer!
....................A perhaps better way is to get a length of scrap steel pipe....such as a portion of a patio umbrella or anything that has a diameter that fits over the end handle of the crescent wrench..........then stand on the pipe .......................the leverage and your body weight will break it loose.
.................Since that Yellow frame looks pretty good, you should plan on getting another used SCHWINN ASHTABULA crank assembly with presentable nice chrome. It will not cost much and it will make the bike look great because the Yellow paint looks to be in great shape.
....................................Yes, you can certainly re-use the existing crank and that any rust, chrome loss or pitting will not matter at all from a durability or functionality standpoint.
You are not going to break an Ashtabula ONE PIECE CRANK. You may be able to clean up the rust such that it might look good but it will be a helluva lot of elbow grease or a polisher. Schwinn chrome was the best in the world. Don't believe that it is possible to clean up cranks that look like hell, then go over to the CABE https://thecabe.com/forum
and see the fantastic cleanup work of genius masters like HARPO and others that are capable of making 70 year old bikes that look like they were buried at a landfill for 50 years into something that you'd swear came out of the Schwinn showroom.

Don't let some dumb azz tell you that you should trash that bike frame, or that you'd want to change to something other than a ONE PIECE CRANK. Those fools are idiots.
The ONE PIECE CRANK is a supremely durable marvel of simplicity that is PERFECT for cruisers and any bicycle that it does not matter that it weighs in excess of 30 pounds.
This is a quality cantilever frame, coaster brake cruiser bike that will be more durable than perhaps any other new coaster brake beach cruiser on the planet.
Yeah, some dumb azz who probably works for, or is the proprietor of a LBS , will always say, "Oh heck no, those aren't any good, its old technology and it weighs too much..."
The reason that they say that is because they want you to buy a NEW bicycle. They don't make any money when you rebuild or restore an ancient bicycle that is of the type and style that the CABERS love to collect, ride, and restore.
Many of those ancient bicycles are built with extremely durable parts that should last for centuries. Yes, they certainly are very cave-man basic and so simple that Jethro Bodine himself could not even eff them up. That is the major appeal for the CABER crowd. That and the fact that they are American made from the era of their youth when manufacturing in the United States was robust.

Vintage Schwinn

That YELLOW bike is a Modern Era "schwinn" HEAVY DUTI that has been sold for the past decade at BIKE SHOPS who carry the bikeshop grade "schwinns" which there aren't many of.

https://www.acebikeshop.com/product-list/bikes-1000/

https://www.bikeroar.com/products/sc...eavy-duti-2015

https://www.bikekc.com/product/schwi...ti-77074-1.htm


While this MODERN era "schwinn" may be slightly better constructed than the Target/Walmart "schwinns", IT IS NOT OF THE QUALITY STANDARD OF THE Real Chicago Era Schwinn Heavy Duti. Despite that, it is still a decently constructed frame.

https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/he...stions.190264/

choddo

Why does ONE PIECE CRANK have to be capitalised?

The welds on that frame look pretty sweet.

miami_librarian

Thank you very much! I appreciate you.

miami_librarian

Thank you!

miami_librarian

The link showing the real Schwinn Heavy Duti was terrific. Brings back a lot of memories. I had an old Schwinn Cruiser decades ago and it was built like a tank.

Jeff Wills

Because that’s how he always writes. Chuck (Vintage Schwinn) is a wealth of knowledge about the design, construction, and history of Schwinn bikes. Despite his unusual writing style I find his posts to be informative and accurate.

choddo

For sure. Just wondered if there was some back story there.

dedhed

And he's gotten way better at paragraphs so they're much easier to digest

Iride01 

I fail to see where I wasn't correct. You didn't point out any of those.

Nowhere did I say that the frame should be trashed. I did make some statements for the OP to consider if they mattered to them and example of what I dealt with in the past.