What to build with an 83-84 Stump Jumper frame?
#1
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What to build with an 83-84 Stump Jumper frame?
I rescued a lugged Stump Jumper with a bi-plane fork from the local scrap yard. It was 30 feet up on the pile and had to be retrieved with "the claw" It got pretty beat up in its travels. The frame has is scratched up, has some rust and the chainstays are crimped from a kick stand. The fork has a broken canti post. The bullmoose-esque stem and handle bars look good, as does the crank set and pedals and seat post. Both wheels and half the components are toast though. I'm getting the fork repaired but that's going to trash the chrome. After the repair I will have $50 into it. I'm planning on some sort sort of rust treatment and a rattle can finish for now. Beyond that I have no idea what to do with this frame. At this point I cant see it being an kind of period correct restoration, and I don't need it to be a particular kind of bike. I could see it replacing the frame of my Bridgestone CB-1 Moustache bar "Country bike" (With Exage "Country" components) , but "if it ain't broke, why fix it?
I know its a nice frame, but function over form, whats it good for?
I know its a nice frame, but function over form, whats it good for?
#2
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Another country style bike of course. I'd go for a riv style build with albatross bars, sugino crank, cheap derailleurs, decent wheels. An early Stumpjumper is a more deluxe frame than a CB-1 really, and it's also a full mountain bike, not a city bike. I looked for one for a while before giving up and getting a Rivendell Clem. OTOH original bullmoose is kinda cool so you might leave those. Yeah, there's some overlap with a CB-1, but n+1 and all... Hammerite makes a decent rattle can finish if you can find some in a rattle can.
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I say...
DON'T spend money on the fork repair. Get this fork from Crust Bikes instead:
https://crustbikes.com/products/clydesdale-fork/
Cargo fork that uses a 20in wheel. Designed for old non-suspension 26" mtbs. Comes in canti or disc, 1" or 1 1/8.
I have one on my early 90s Giant ATX 760 and it is my favorite bike. I have a huge milk crate on front and it makes shopping super easy. I have also used it on short tours and some off-road touring and it is great. Handles like a normal bike. I've carried firewood, massive cases of adult beverages, drums, metalworking equipment, bike frames, and a host of other stuff in it.
DON'T spend money on the fork repair. Get this fork from Crust Bikes instead:
https://crustbikes.com/products/clydesdale-fork/
Cargo fork that uses a 20in wheel. Designed for old non-suspension 26" mtbs. Comes in canti or disc, 1" or 1 1/8.
I have one on my early 90s Giant ATX 760 and it is my favorite bike. I have a huge milk crate on front and it makes shopping super easy. I have also used it on short tours and some off-road touring and it is great. Handles like a normal bike. I've carried firewood, massive cases of adult beverages, drums, metalworking equipment, bike frames, and a host of other stuff in it.
Last edited by TenGrainBread; 11-05-18 at 07:59 PM.
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Well... That certainly is something I didn't know I needed.
The CB-1 is nothing fancy, but it does have a lower bottom bracket than most mountain bikes, which I kind of like. With 175mm cranks, I tend to coast the corners.
The CB-1 is nothing fancy, but it does have a lower bottom bracket than most mountain bikes, which I kind of like. With 175mm cranks, I tend to coast the corners.
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I just finished up the final build of an '85 Stumpy I got in a sorry shape a few years ago in Right Proper Country Fashion. I haven't yet had time to ride it much, the roads here are still pretty treacherous.
It also had a broken cantilever boss, but I was able to use the Problem Solvers repair kit (https://www.wheelandsprocket.com/pro...t-182070-1.htm) But that Crust Clydesdale fork is at the top of my "must buy" list, if the bike's the right size it's an ideal excuse to get one.
It also had a broken cantilever boss, but I was able to use the Problem Solvers repair kit (https://www.wheelandsprocket.com/pro...t-182070-1.htm) But that Crust Clydesdale fork is at the top of my "must buy" list, if the bike's the right size it's an ideal excuse to get one.
#6
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Are you talking about Bullmoose bars or the fancy sculpted stem like this one:
Either or are really cool. Even the much more common MTS-100 stem is pretty doggone cool.
At one point I wanted to swap out the bullmoose for drops- but decided against it. They're just too cool.
Either or are really cool. Even the much more common MTS-100 stem is pretty doggone cool.
At one point I wanted to swap out the bullmoose for drops- but decided against it. They're just too cool.
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#8
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Are you talking about Bullmoose bars or the fancy sculpted stem like this one:
Either or are really cool. Even the much more common MTS-100 stem is pretty doggone cool.
At one point I wanted to swap out the bullmoose for drops- but decided against it. They're just too cool.
Either or are really cool. Even the much more common MTS-100 stem is pretty doggone cool.
At one point I wanted to swap out the bullmoose for drops- but decided against it. They're just too cool.
I just finished up the final build of an '85 Stumpy I got in a sorry shape a few years ago in Right Proper Country Fashion. I haven't yet had time to ride it much, the roads here are still pretty treacherous.
It also had a broken cantilever boss, but I was able to use the Problem Solvers repair kit (https://www.wheelandsprocket.com/pro...t-182070-1.htm) But that Crust Clydesdale fork is at the top of my "must buy" list, if the bike's the right size it's an ideal excuse to get one.
It also had a broken cantilever boss, but I was able to use the Problem Solvers repair kit (https://www.wheelandsprocket.com/pro...t-182070-1.htm) But that Crust Clydesdale fork is at the top of my "must buy" list, if the bike's the right size it's an ideal excuse to get one.
Is there a way to replicate the black cracked paint patina I've seen on 1930's bikes?
#9
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The Stumpjumper was always a prime machine- either the Stumpjumper or the Stumpjumper Sport-
If you wanted a more high end hybrid- check the early 90s Trek and Schwinn catalogs.
My Father In Law has a CrissCross- I have secret plans of upgrading a lot of the lower end parts since it’s a butted CrMo frame- it looks like the price point on those was met with lower end components.
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#10
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I got back to cycling 3 years ago on a low end Bianchi hybrid that i pretty much rode into the ground. It had fenders and 38mm tires and butterfly handle bars I've been keeping an eye out for a Trek 750 to put together a more refined version. If you look at the threads I've started, the aquisition of a dozen or so "keepers" is well documented. I've got the CB-1 dressed up, and tuned up pretty good and its had a lot of miles pulling my son in a trailer. I also have a mid 80's Centurion Sport DLX set up with fenders and 28mm tires that got a lot of miles this summer. Besides that I apparantly have enough potential bikes to fit Just about every fractional "need" I can envision. At this point the "que" is deffined by the 3 sets of tires I have awaiting complete bikes.
So with the landing of the Stump Jumper, I realy have to ask, what am I going to do with this?
So with the landing of the Stump Jumper, I realy have to ask, what am I going to do with this?
#12
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My find; an old SJ Sport, frame, no fork , broken drive side dropout,
now has 2 long horizontal dropout tips. fork found, tange chromoly ..
now parked with studded tire wheels on it, at the ready (doesn't ice up for long, here)..
....
now has 2 long horizontal dropout tips. fork found, tange chromoly ..
now parked with studded tire wheels on it, at the ready (doesn't ice up for long, here)..
....
#13
Senior Member
I am sort of in the same place with a trash find... cyclepro not a stumpy, but similar. I already have a pretty much stock stumpjumper sport, so thinking this one might do for a more city cruiser. needs to be completely rebuilt in any case so gonna paint it. I like that sort of olive thing going on above.
#14
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I got back to cycling 3 years ago on a low end Bianchi hybrid that i pretty much rode into the ground. It had fenders and 38mm tires and butterfly handle bars I've been keeping an eye out for a Trek 750 to put together a more refined version. If you look at the threads I've started, the aquisition of a dozen or so "keepers" is well documented. I've got the CB-1 dressed up, and tuned up pretty good and its had a lot of miles pulling my son in a trailer. I also have a mid 80's Centurion Sport DLX set up with fenders and 28mm tires that got a lot of miles this summer. Besides that I apparantly have enough potential bikes to fit Just about every fractional "need" I can envision. At this point the "que" is deffined by the 3 sets of tires I have awaiting complete bikes.
So with the landing of the Stump Jumper, I realy have to ask, what am I going to do with this?
So with the landing of the Stump Jumper, I realy have to ask, what am I going to do with this?
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#15
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Paint the frame with black nitrocellulose lacquer; it will crackle eventually. Or, use a clear lacquer topcoat over black enamel, and it will crack immediately. When you violate the fat over lean rule, the result is cracks. For any kind of finishing experiments: TEST FIRST ON SCRAP.
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I bought a CrisCross a few years ago for $25. The paint is rough, it is a bit small for me, and it is hanging in the rafters right now. I have been hoping that my wife or my son would want to ride it. Doesn't look like that is going to happen.
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If the fork with the broken canti mount is chrome, it probably wasn't the original fork. I'd check the top and down tubes near where they join the head tube to see whether they're bent from a front-end impact.
#18
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#19
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#20
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In in any case- probably a Giant made CrMo frame, fork and stays- it’s a nice bike as-is; replace some of the lower end stuff and you’ve got a pretty decent bike there. Of course you’d also have to turn your clothes around the right way, pull your pants up and get rid of that silly CrissCross name.
I remember someone here worked with VeloCals and made 1970s style Schwinn block letter decals for a CrossCut. I dink around thinking about going with a solid color and some classy 1950s/60s style Schwinn script and starbursts- and conveniently leave off the CrissCross name.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Last edited by The Golden Boy; 11-07-18 at 06:15 AM.
#21
Senior Member
I think the CrissCross was under the CrossCut- just going from memory, I think they were both the same frame- just different component levels.
In in any case- probably a Giant made CrMo frame, fork and stays- it’s a nice bike as-is; replace some of the lower end stuff and you’ve got a pretty decent bike there. Of course you’d also have to turn your clothes around the right way, pull your pants up and get rid of that silly CrissCross name.
I remember someone here worked with VeloCals and made 1970s style Schwinn block letter decals for a CrossCut. I dink around thinking about going with a solid color and some classy 1950s/60s style Schwinn script and starbursts- and conveniently leave off the CrissCross name.
More useless stuff to stick in yer head.
#22
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Do the CrisCross and CrossCut have relatively long top tubes? I saw a couple at the Newark Bike Project in Delaware. They had just recieved a huge amount of donations so i didnt have time to look at every bike, but the 2 that i noticed were small frames that had sort of a 700c BMX look.
#23
Senior Member
Does your Stumpy have the type of cantilever stud that is swaged into an open sheet metal box? These were quite common in the early MTB days and also on some touring bikes.
I have this type on a Ross MTB from this time frame that I keep at my family's house in the USA, and one of the studs came off in my hand along with the caliper a couple years back. I piggybacked on someone else's old thread here about a cheap fix involving grinding a nylock nut and using a cheap modern replacement stud along with an assortment of various washers. It works well still after several years. If I had a bunch of time, I would have machined a block that fit exactly in the box with a threaded hole (and made three extras for the others), but I didn't have the resources where I keep the bike.
I think you can fix it for perhaps $5 and keep the paint if this is the case.
I have this type on a Ross MTB from this time frame that I keep at my family's house in the USA, and one of the studs came off in my hand along with the caliper a couple years back. I piggybacked on someone else's old thread here about a cheap fix involving grinding a nylock nut and using a cheap modern replacement stud along with an assortment of various washers. It works well still after several years. If I had a bunch of time, I would have machined a block that fit exactly in the box with a threaded hole (and made three extras for the others), but I didn't have the resources where I keep the bike.
I think you can fix it for perhaps $5 and keep the paint if this is the case.
#24
Banned
I bypassed the cantilever brake studs , by building a set of drum brake hub wheels ..
as it wears studded tires , I got 45mm wide rims
from All Weather sports in Fairbanks AK.
Suomi Nokian tires shipped from Finland..
as it wears studded tires , I got 45mm wide rims
from All Weather sports in Fairbanks AK.
Suomi Nokian tires shipped from Finland..
#25
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The cantiliver mount is different from the ones that can spin. i have another frame with 3 out 4 spinning. I might try the problem solvers kit but I got quoted $35 for a proper repair. I'll try and get pictures next week, when I get a little shop time.