Varsity crank (Ashtabula) questions
04-28-22, 06:17 AM
#1
WGB
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Varsity crank (Ashtabula) questions
I should start by saying I looked online but can't find spec sheets that list Ashtabula crank tooth counts or model numbers.
Back before Covid came along (October 2019), I bought a 1967 Schwinn Varsity. It was incredibly well preserved, even, down to the original "Schwinn approved" saddle.
Unfortunately, for some unknown reason, the cranks were heavily rusted ((both cranks and chain wheels). I threw those cranks out figuring "I'll have no trouble finding a replacement set". I wish now I hadn't because I can't find a replacement set. The hubs were trash as well but steel 27 inch wheels aren't that hard to acquire.
My questions are about period appropriate cranks.
1) Did they make different variations of double Ashtabula cranks? By that I mean we're there specific tooth counts for different Varsity models or, were they all the same?
2) Did Schwinn use the same cranks across the board for the same years (Did say Continentals have the same cranks as Varsitys)?
I'm debating just finding a late '60s Schwinn and liberating the cranks but unsure if it is that simple....
Back before Covid came along (October 2019), I bought a 1967 Schwinn Varsity. It was incredibly well preserved, even, down to the original "Schwinn approved" saddle.
Unfortunately, for some unknown reason, the cranks were heavily rusted ((both cranks and chain wheels). I threw those cranks out figuring "I'll have no trouble finding a replacement set". I wish now I hadn't because I can't find a replacement set. The hubs were trash as well but steel 27 inch wheels aren't that hard to acquire.
My questions are about period appropriate cranks.
1) Did they make different variations of double Ashtabula cranks? By that I mean we're there specific tooth counts for different Varsity models or, were they all the same?
2) Did Schwinn use the same cranks across the board for the same years (Did say Continentals have the same cranks as Varsitys)?
I'm debating just finding a late '60s Schwinn and liberating the cranks but unsure if it is that simple....
04-28-22, 06:52 AM
#2
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The cranksets were the same between the Continentals and the Varsities (and the Super Sports). IIRC, they changed styles in 1966, from a "Sprint" branded crankset to what was used until the early '80s on these two models. So, any crankset from a Continental or Varsity in that 14–18-year period should work.
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04-28-22, 07:33 AM
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Thank you!
04-28-22, 11:30 AM
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Better still, consider upgrading to aluminum cranks, using a BB shell adaptor. After aluminum rims, this is the best upgrade you can make to a "VarsiNental."
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
04-28-22, 11:44 AM
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These later Schwinn Ashtabula crankset have a diamond cross-section to them. You may also find them on 10 speed Suburbans. Be careful about the length. It may be possible that step through frame may have shorter length cranks. There is another thread here on Schwinn cranks that details the crank length.
This listing shows some excellent pictures of the later crank and chainwheels. eBay Schwinn Varinental Crank
The crank and chainwheels on the Continental that I picked up I thought may never clean up, but to my surprise they came out looking pretty good. I do know that that rust is still there waiting for the wax to go away so that it can resume it's decent into disorder. For now it's looking good.
This listing shows some excellent pictures of the later crank and chainwheels. eBay Schwinn Varinental Crank
The crank and chainwheels on the Continental that I picked up I thought may never clean up, but to my surprise they came out looking pretty good. I do know that that rust is still there waiting for the wax to go away so that it can resume it's decent into disorder. For now it's looking good.
04-28-22, 12:00 PM
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@john c I'd like to keep it looking closer to what it was, more of a resto than a rider-rebuild if that makes sense.
@Velo Mule The original cranks didn't have a pant guard (chain guard?), and looked more like a modern 3 piece crank set, except they were steel, weighed a ton and were of course Ashtabula....
I'll post a photo of the kind I have in mind.
This is the type of cranks and are mounted on a similar Varsity, I just don't want to buy a bike for the cranks, though it just appeared locally for $60...
@Velo Mule The original cranks didn't have a pant guard (chain guard?), and looked more like a modern 3 piece crank set, except they were steel, weighed a ton and were of course Ashtabula....
I'll post a photo of the kind I have in mind.
This is the type of cranks and are mounted on a similar Varsity, I just don't want to buy a bike for the cranks, though it just appeared locally for $60...
Last edited by WGB; 04-28-22 at 12:06 PM.
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04-28-22, 02:16 PM
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Yes, you're looking for the earlier 60's version as noted by Pastor Bob. Note how the taper on the spider is opposite that of the later ones. Also, the crank itself should have a date/year stamp near the center of the "spindle" portion.
$60 for that complete bike is a pretty decent deal for the early ones. I see the 60s cranks themselves listed on eBay for that price.
$60 for that complete bike is a pretty decent deal for the early ones. I see the 60s cranks themselves listed on eBay for that price.
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04-28-22, 04:36 PM
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@Hudson308
I agree the one for sale is not a bad example, especially at that price but I bought the first one because it was cool and it didn't even fit me so can't really justify a 2nd,....😦😦
I agree the one for sale is not a bad example, especially at that price but I bought the first one because it was cool and it didn't even fit me so can't really justify a 2nd,....😦😦
04-28-22, 07:58 PM
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I hope that I will get away to the US with my wife in a weeks and if I don't find a cheap crankset at a Co-op, I'll revisit the one I posted as it's been up for awhile.
If I do but it and I'm stuck with the "tourist version" shown, has anybody seen a bottom bracket adapter for sale anywhere?
I saw this one on eBay after seeing an RJ the Bike guy video
Is this correct??
Truvativ American to Euro BMX Bottom Bracket Adaptor 00.6415.027.000 NEW
If I do but it and I'm stuck with the "tourist version" shown, has anybody seen a bottom bracket adapter for sale anywhere?
I saw this one on eBay after seeing an RJ the Bike guy video
Is this correct??
Truvativ American to Euro BMX Bottom Bracket Adaptor 00.6415.027.000 NEW
Last edited by WGB; 04-28-22 at 08:51 PM.
04-29-22, 02:25 AM
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I hope that I will get away to the US with my wife in a weeks and if I don't find a cheap crankset at a Co-op, I'll revisit the one I posted as it's been up for awhile.
If I do but it and I'm stuck with the "tourist version" shown, has anybody seen a bottom bracket adapter for sale anywhere?
I saw this one on eBay after seeing an RJ the Bike guy video
Is this correct??
Truvativ American to Euro BMX Bottom Bracket Adaptor 00.6415.027.000 NEW
If I do but it and I'm stuck with the "tourist version" shown, has anybody seen a bottom bracket adapter for sale anywhere?
I saw this one on eBay after seeing an RJ the Bike guy video
Is this correct??
Truvativ American to Euro BMX Bottom Bracket Adaptor 00.6415.027.000 NEW
04-29-22, 02:39 AM
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The one piece cranks are very, very heavy but that’s really the only bad thing you can say about them. You can install them and adjust the bearings with a crescent wrench. The outer bash guard is big enough to cover the front derailer so your pants won’t get caught in the chain and the big ring has a stamping that serves as a shift ramp. The chrome is good. BMX pedals fit
05-02-22, 06:29 PM
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The one piece cranks are very, very heavy but that’s really the only bad thing you can say about them. You can install them and adjust the bearings with a crescent wrench. The outer bash guard is big enough to cover the front derailer so your pants won’t get caught in the chain and the big ring has a stamping that serves as a shift ramp. The chrome is good. BMX pedals fit
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