What to carry with tubeless wheels?
Likes For shoota:
#52
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: San Jose
Posts: 1,025
Bikes: Blur / Ibis Hakka MX / team machince alr2 / topstone 1
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 426 Post(s)
Liked 274 Times
in
201 Posts
https://bikerumor.com/review-orange-...take-the-cold/
I have not had much luck shaking the tire to hear the sealant. I remove the core valve and stick something in there like a dip stick checking for oil in car.
Likes For sean.hwy:
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 7,828
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1872 Post(s)
Liked 692 Times
in
468 Posts
It was a serious question. Yes I have, all your answers are on the first page. Let us know if there are further questions after that.
Personally, I’ve learned that I want plugs more easily accessible, and I want a mini pump on board too.
Also, you don’t need (or want) to trim the bacon strips right away. You can do that at home after the ride.
Personally, I’ve learned that I want plugs more easily accessible, and I want a mini pump on board too.
Also, you don’t need (or want) to trim the bacon strips right away. You can do that at home after the ride.
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Australia
Posts: 824
Bikes: 2002 Trek 5200 (US POSTAL), 2020 Canyon Aeroad SL
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 313 Post(s)
Liked 682 Times
in
328 Posts
In my road tubeless kit I carry a small scalpel to trim the end of the strip down. This is mostly due to tyre-frame clearance issues.
On the gravel bike I reckon it's far less of an issue and wouldn't bother. Just jam the plug in, spin the tyre and ensure it seals, top up air if needed, ride on! 🙂
On the gravel bike I reckon it's far less of an issue and wouldn't bother. Just jam the plug in, spin the tyre and ensure it seals, top up air if needed, ride on! 🙂
Likes For tempocyclist:
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,887
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6972 Post(s)
Liked 10,968 Times
in
4,692 Posts
My plug 'tails" always get mashed flat after a few revolutions of the wheel, though I use them almost exclusively with knobbier gravel tires; does it not work the same with with road slicks?
Likes For Koyote:
#57
With a mighty wind
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,594
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 862 Times
in
490 Posts
I “successfully” plugged a sidewall cut on my MTB once. It wasn’t a good repair and the tire had to get replaced but the dart plugged it enough to get me home.
More recently, I went through several of them trail side and ended up limping the bike back back. Basically, the tire was thick enough that the dart couldn’t open up inside. Traditional bacon would have been much better.
Once home, I opted for dyna plugs and have completely replaced the darts. That’s two sets so I don’t have to switch back and forth between my MTB and gravel bike repair bags.
A Dart may work on a thinner section of tire, but after that experience, I don’t trust them at all.
For the gravel bike, I carry a single tire lever, one CO2, the dynaplug, and a tube. For longer or more isolated rides, I also bring a small frame pump and hope I never need it. It sucks.
Ive considered a Tubolito or similar but they just seem so flimsy. I figure if I’m putting in a tube, I’m barely making it home anyway, and with whatever damage I have on my tire to necessitate this, might be more than such a thin tube can handle. Maybe I’m paranoid.
Ive had to put a new tube in on a gravel ride twice. This was early in my learning process. Both occasions were from the valve failing to stay sealed. I’ve moved past this by using better quality stems, pushing super hard on the back while screwing as hard as I can, and dabbing some rubber cement around the inside before mounting. When inflating, I squeeze the valve stem before unscrewing the valve, to keep it from twisting and breaking the seal. I have strong hands and no arthritis yet, so I can barehand it, but a cheap mini tool with a plier is probably a good idea.
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Australia
Posts: 824
Bikes: 2002 Trek 5200 (US POSTAL), 2020 Canyon Aeroad SL
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 313 Post(s)
Liked 682 Times
in
328 Posts
My time trial rear wheel has pretty tight clearances, plus with the smoother tyre and higher pressure you can sometimes feel the "bump" each rotation.
Likes For tempocyclist:
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,887
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6972 Post(s)
Liked 10,968 Times
in
4,692 Posts
Ive had to put a new tube in on a gravel ride twice. This was early in my learning process. Both occasions were from the valve failing to stay sealed. I’ve moved past this by using better quality stems, pushing super hard on the back while screwing as hard as I can, and dabbing some rubber cement around the inside before mounting. When inflating, I squeeze the valve stem before unscrewing the valve, to keep it from twisting and breaking the seal. I have strong hands and no arthritis yet, so I can barehand it, but a cheap mini tool with a plier is probably a good idea.
#60
Over the hill
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 24,376
Bikes: Giant Defy, Giant Revolt
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 998 Post(s)
Liked 1,206 Times
in
692 Posts
In my road tubeless kit I carry a small scalpel to trim the end of the strip down. This is mostly due to tyre-frame clearance issues.
On the gravel bike I reckon it's far less of an issue and wouldn't bother. Just jam the plug in, spin the tyre and ensure it seals, top up air if needed, ride on! 🙂
On the gravel bike I reckon it's far less of an issue and wouldn't bother. Just jam the plug in, spin the tyre and ensure it seals, top up air if needed, ride on! 🙂
__________________
It's like riding a bicycle
It's like riding a bicycle
Likes For urbanknight: