Tubeless vs Tubular - School Me
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Tubeless vs Tubular - School Me
I'm looking at the Hutchinson Tubless tires for Cross racing / riding. The only rim I've found so far that is "tubeless" compatible in a dura ace, wheelset it $1099.00 ouuuuch.... I know there is a kit for converting wheels, anyone used it? How messy is the sealant?
Is it better to just go tubular? I know glue is involved... so how messy is it? I hear you can roll the tires off if they don't have enough pressure.
Take me to school please..
Is it better to just go tubular? I know glue is involved... so how messy is it? I hear you can roll the tires off if they don't have enough pressure.
Take me to school please..
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Tubeless is for running insanely low pressure, tubular is for insanely high pressure. You don't want tubular for cross.
Actually, it looks like a was misinformed. I see that there are, in fact, tubular cross tires out there. I guess they do have the benefit of being less prone to pinching than clinchers, but they seem like too much of a hassle, especially for cross use.
Actually, it looks like a was misinformed. I see that there are, in fact, tubular cross tires out there. I guess they do have the benefit of being less prone to pinching than clinchers, but they seem like too much of a hassle, especially for cross use.
Last edited by darksiderising; 09-28-08 at 09:36 PM.
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Tubeless is for running insanely low pressure, tubular is for insanely high pressure. You don't want tubular for cross.
Actually, it looks like a was misinformed. I see that there are, in fact, tubular cross tires out there. I guess they do have the benefit of being less prone to pinching than clinchers, but they seem like too much of a hassle, especially for cross use.
Actually, it looks like a was misinformed. I see that there are, in fact, tubular cross tires out there. I guess they do have the benefit of being less prone to pinching than clinchers, but they seem like too much of a hassle, especially for cross use.
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Tubeless is for running insanely low pressure, tubular is for insanely high pressure. You don't want tubular for cross.
Actually, it looks like a was misinformed. I see that there are, in fact, tubular cross tires out there. I guess they do have the benefit of being less prone to pinching than clinchers, but they seem like too much of a hassle, especially for cross use.
Actually, it looks like a was misinformed. I see that there are, in fact, tubular cross tires out there. I guess they do have the benefit of being less prone to pinching than clinchers, but they seem like too much of a hassle, especially for cross use.
I have no experience with tubeless, but I'm sure someone on here does.
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Given the fact that most pro run tubulars in cross I would say they work pretty well. You can run low pressure for cross and they don't flat unless you really hit a big rock or tear the side of the tire, you can also use sealant inside to prevent small thorns holes.
You can get pretty unexpensive wheels, I would look on e-bay or craigslist.
Also don't buy expensive tires, I got the basic tufo and they are more than good for me in every condition, rider ability is still more critical than tires at our level.
The gluing is not that difficult and if done right you dont roll your tires even if they are at low pressure.
Tubeless I don't have experience with, Cyclopath in Portland quoted me 140$ to set up my clincher rims with tubeless tires, all included.
You can also do it yourself and save some money, look at: https://www.erikv.com/blog/ for good info on tubeless.
Did you do Barlow, how did it go?
Ciao
Paolo
You can get pretty unexpensive wheels, I would look on e-bay or craigslist.
Also don't buy expensive tires, I got the basic tufo and they are more than good for me in every condition, rider ability is still more critical than tires at our level.
The gluing is not that difficult and if done right you dont roll your tires even if they are at low pressure.
Tubeless I don't have experience with, Cyclopath in Portland quoted me 140$ to set up my clincher rims with tubeless tires, all included.
You can also do it yourself and save some money, look at: https://www.erikv.com/blog/ for good info on tubeless.
Did you do Barlow, how did it go?
Ciao
Paolo
#7
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I use tubeless on my mountain bike. They can be slightly lighter than a tube+clincher setup, depending what you do.
You can run normal clinchers with Stan's sealant. Two of my regular riding buddies do this and do just fine. Cons: messy installation, and needing to roll the bike around once a week, or the Stan's rolls off the bead inside and the seal will fail, necessitating another messy install. This is significantly lighter than clincher+tubes.
You can buy specific 'tubeless' clinchers, which tend to have heavier sidewalls than normal clinchers. These don't need Stan's, but if you're an aggressive rider and want low pressure, it's a good idea to put it in anyway, as it helps the tire recover better from a 'burp' if you roll the tire off the side of the rim on a turn. This is heavier than clincher+tube, but significantly more bomb-proof. I use this method, as I'm a clyde and ride hard enough to get snakebite flats on 2.3 tires.
You can run normal clinchers with Stan's sealant. Two of my regular riding buddies do this and do just fine. Cons: messy installation, and needing to roll the bike around once a week, or the Stan's rolls off the bead inside and the seal will fail, necessitating another messy install. This is significantly lighter than clincher+tubes.
You can buy specific 'tubeless' clinchers, which tend to have heavier sidewalls than normal clinchers. These don't need Stan's, but if you're an aggressive rider and want low pressure, it's a good idea to put it in anyway, as it helps the tire recover better from a 'burp' if you roll the tire off the side of the rim on a turn. This is heavier than clincher+tube, but significantly more bomb-proof. I use this method, as I'm a clyde and ride hard enough to get snakebite flats on 2.3 tires.
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Tubeless I don't have experience with, Cyclopath in Portland quoted me 140$ to set up my clincher rims with tubeless tires, all included.
You can also do it yourself and save some money, look at: https://www.erikv.com/blog/ for good info on tubeless.
Did you do Barlow, how did it go?
Ciao
Paolo
You can also do it yourself and save some money, look at: https://www.erikv.com/blog/ for good info on tubeless.
Did you do Barlow, how did it go?
Ciao
Paolo
I cant find any info on tubeless on the erikv link...
I did Barlow, Master C, and scored a solid 50 of 70. Better than last time at least plus there was a cluster F at the end regarding if we were done or not. I stopped and those I was racing kept going. Who cares it was fun. I forgot to look for you as I had my hands full with my wife, 2 black dogs and a friend that came down from Hood River. Next week, perhaps?
I saw a sexy set of tubeless wheels at the waffle makers booth. Nice. That is what got me looking at tubeless. Plus my tires are a whole lot narrower that the ones I saw and harder too. I had to go slow on the pavement turns as it felt I was going to roll off my rear tire on the turns.
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Hunt-man good job, if you are riding with S&M you should check with Sellwood and see what they have, you might get a discount there and it is always good to support them....
They have several wheels on the website for sale, I am sure they got plenty of tires and they can glue them up for you.
$140 included tires and labor at Cyclopath.
Ciao
Paolo
They have several wheels on the website for sale, I am sure they got plenty of tires and they can glue them up for you.
$140 included tires and labor at Cyclopath.
Ciao
Paolo
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The real mistake he made was writing that tubulars "seem like too much of a hassle" for cross. There are four variables you are trying to optimize for cross: traction, rolling resistance, rotating weight, and reliability. Tubulars beat out clinchers on all four.
Compare with road racing, where rotating weight is the one irrefutable argument for tubulars. Even then, aerodynamics might trump rotating weight (this category is a tie between tubulars and clinchers). In cross, with the slower average speed and constant slowing down and speeding up, rotating weight trumps aerodynamics.
This season looks like a large number of people will be trying out tubeless. My guess is that a good tubeless setup gets you most of the advantages of tubulars, but tubulars will remain the choice of pros and hardcore gear junkies.
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The real mistake he made was writing that tubulars "seem like too much of a hassle" for cross. There are four variables you are trying to optimize for cross: traction, rolling resistance, rotating weight, and reliability. Tubulars beat out clinchers on all four.
Compare with road racing, where rotating weight is the one irrefutable argument for tubulars. Even then, aerodynamics might trump rotating weight (this category is a tie between tubulars and clinchers). In cross, with the slower average speed and constant slowing down and speeding up, rotating weight trumps aerodynamics.
This season looks like a large number of people will be trying out tubeless. My guess is that a good tubeless setup gets you most of the advantages of tubulars, but tubulars will remain the choice of pros and hardcore gear junkies.
Compare with road racing, where rotating weight is the one irrefutable argument for tubulars. Even then, aerodynamics might trump rotating weight (this category is a tie between tubulars and clinchers). In cross, with the slower average speed and constant slowing down and speeding up, rotating weight trumps aerodynamics.
This season looks like a large number of people will be trying out tubeless. My guess is that a good tubeless setup gets you most of the advantages of tubulars, but tubulars will remain the choice of pros and hardcore gear junkies.
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To get a pinch flat with a tubular you need to damage the casing, so it depends from the type of tire and how heavy it is, some lighter ones are less resistant to pinch flat if you ride over rocks with low pressure, if you ride a tubeless you get more or less the same result, but again it depends from the tire sidewall and the rim shape, in theory.
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I searched Stans 355 and found this link. Cool video's on tubeless tires and sealant etc. From a place called NoTubes... Lots of good info on tubless.
https://www.notubes.com/support_movies.php
https://www.notubes.com/support_movies.php
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Check out this thread on the real cross forum:
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/sho...d.php?t=137479
So now there are, I think, three tubeless-specific tires on the market.
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/sho...d.php?t=137479
So now there are, I think, three tubeless-specific tires on the market.
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That was some spectacular/typical BF.net misinformation up near the beginning of the thread.
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Originally Posted by Richard8655
I wouldn't be caught dead riding a steel bike. We left the Iron Age a long time ago. Aluminum, titanium, and carbon represent the future.
Yep.
Yep.
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So can we get back on topic now?
I'd really like to hear from anyone with 700c tubeless experience. Seems like tubular is the common way to go. I saw a sexy set of carbon tubulars a friend has but money is a big issue now... I did get a Hutchinson Bulldog Tubeless ready tire but it is mounted with a tube now. Seems like a nice cross tire.
I'd really like to hear from anyone with 700c tubeless experience. Seems like tubular is the common way to go. I saw a sexy set of carbon tubulars a friend has but money is a big issue now... I did get a Hutchinson Bulldog Tubeless ready tire but it is mounted with a tube now. Seems like a nice cross tire.