Help with 57 Bianchi headset
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Help with 57 Bianchi headset
I recently picked up this 57 Bianchi and the headset has a little play in it. I wanted to tighten it up, but I don't see the traditional 2 lock nuts.
Anyone how to tighen this headset?
thank you.
Anyone how to tighen this headset?
thank you.
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I'm pretty sure it's the knurled nut on the top. I forget, there may be some set screws. if that's the case make sure you loosen.
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See the bolt with the B on it? That is a clamp-on headset. Popular with track bikes, Bianchi and several English bikes.
Loosen the B bolt. Screw down the the knurled nut until the play is gone. Tighten B bolt. Give the knurled nut just a bit more turn and Bob's yer uncle.
Loosen the B bolt. Screw down the the knurled nut until the play is gone. Tighten B bolt. Give the knurled nut just a bit more turn and Bob's yer uncle.
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And proceed with caution, overhaul should be on the table to gain familiarity and understanding given the question.
This is a great opportunity to gain some knowledge you may never use again and make sure this lives on as it should.
This is a great opportunity to gain some knowledge you may never use again and make sure this lives on as it should.
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the screws have holes on opposite ends so I think there is a special tool need for turning these. The top one I got off with a pipe wrench wrapped in cloth. I was able to move the clamp up a little.
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Park and other tool manufacturers make a pin tool which fits the horizontal holes in the locknut
here is the fellow from VAR for example, Nr. 13
use of such a tool prevents galling of the knurling on the lock nut which occurs with use of pump pliers/channelock
should you wish to repack at some point set uses 1/8" ball
-----
Park and other tool manufacturers make a pin tool which fits the horizontal holes in the locknut
here is the fellow from VAR for example, Nr. 13
use of such a tool prevents galling of the knurling on the lock nut which occurs with use of pump pliers/channelock
should you wish to repack at some point set uses 1/8" ball
-----
#7
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-----
Park and other tool manufacturers make a pin tool which fits the horizontal holes in the locknut
here is the fellow from VAR for example, Nr. 13
use of such a tool prevents galling of the knurling on the lock nut which occurs with use of pump pliers/channelock
should you wish to repack at some point set uses 1/8" ball
-----
Park and other tool manufacturers make a pin tool which fits the horizontal holes in the locknut
here is the fellow from VAR for example, Nr. 13
use of such a tool prevents galling of the knurling on the lock nut which occurs with use of pump pliers/channelock
should you wish to repack at some point set uses 1/8" ball
-----
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You can go with the tool juvela posted, for a small fortune. Or, a plumber's strap wrench does the job. The top nut does not need to ne much more than finger tight.
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#9
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The VAR 13 ([pictured below on the left) is a great tool for the job (I have used it successfully with old Bianchi built-in headsets), but I don't think it is made anymore. They can be had on eBay, but are often spendy. [utag=458869]WilliamT, if you buy one, make 100% sure it has the two little screw-in pins. They can moved from being parallel (for adjustable BB cups - you can see the holes for this position in the photo) to pointing towards each other (perfect for the little holes in the headset cup/race and knurled top nut.) The tool is worthless without them. The wing nut allows for a wide range of adjustability.
VAR also made a purpose-designed set of pliers to use on the knurled nut while the VAR 13 was used on the cup/race. The pliers are pictured below on the right. I've used those, too, but they really aren't any better than using a pair of channel-lock pliers (with a rag to avoid leaving "scars"). The strap wrench shown by iab would probably work at least as well with less risk of surface damage to the knurled nut.
I think the best thing about the VAR tools actually is their appearance. Their is a certain Gallic, funky, almost rustic charm to them, at least to my eye
VAR also made a purpose-designed set of pliers to use on the knurled nut while the VAR 13 was used on the cup/race. The pliers are pictured below on the right. I've used those, too, but they really aren't any better than using a pair of channel-lock pliers (with a rag to avoid leaving "scars"). The strap wrench shown by iab would probably work at least as well with less risk of surface damage to the knurled nut.
I think the best thing about the VAR tools actually is their appearance. Their is a certain Gallic, funky, almost rustic charm to them, at least to my eye
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Ok, I was able to remove all the upper parts and I used use a pick and hammer to tap the nut over a little more; just enough so there is no play.
(I would like to eventually look for that tool. I have a few of the park tools for the bottom bracket, freewheel, some spanner wrenches, etc. but nothing that clamps the headset with just 2 pins).
One tool that helped a lot was using retaining ring pliers to expand the clamp so I could slide it out of the way
SPEEDWOX 2 Pcs Special Ring Retaining Ring Pliers Set Lock Ring Pliers Flat for Removing Installing Gearshift Locking Rings Angle Tip Circlip Plier Automobile Transmission Clutch Tool Fathers Day Gift - Amazon.com
Anyways, its back together and on to the next task; the brakes which are side pull univerals so that should be easy.
Reply
(I would like to eventually look for that tool. I have a few of the park tools for the bottom bracket, freewheel, some spanner wrenches, etc. but nothing that clamps the headset with just 2 pins).
One tool that helped a lot was using retaining ring pliers to expand the clamp so I could slide it out of the way
SPEEDWOX 2 Pcs Special Ring Retaining Ring Pliers Set Lock Ring Pliers Flat for Removing Installing Gearshift Locking Rings Angle Tip Circlip Plier Automobile Transmission Clutch Tool Fathers Day Gift - Amazon.com
Anyways, its back together and on to the next task; the brakes which are side pull univerals so that should be easy.
Reply
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I do love a Bianchi Gran Sport. Classy bike. I just wish they made them something other than 54cm. Just too small for me.
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Ok, I was able to remove all the upper parts and I used use a pick and hammer to tap the nut over a little more; just enough so there is no play.
(I would like to eventually look for that tool. I have a few of the park tools for the bottom bracket, freewheel, some spanner wrenches, etc. but nothing that clamps the headset with just 2 pins).
One tool that helped a lot was using retaining ring pliers to expand the clamp so I could slide it out of the way
SPEEDWOX 2 Pcs Special Ring Retaining Ring Pliers Set Lock Ring Pliers Flat for Removing Installing Gearshift Locking Rings Angle Tip Circlip Plier Automobile Transmission Clutch Tool Fathers Day Gift - Amazon.com
Anyways, its back together and on to the next task; the brakes which are side pull univerals so that should be easy.
Reply
(I would like to eventually look for that tool. I have a few of the park tools for the bottom bracket, freewheel, some spanner wrenches, etc. but nothing that clamps the headset with just 2 pins).
One tool that helped a lot was using retaining ring pliers to expand the clamp so I could slide it out of the way
SPEEDWOX 2 Pcs Special Ring Retaining Ring Pliers Set Lock Ring Pliers Flat for Removing Installing Gearshift Locking Rings Angle Tip Circlip Plier Automobile Transmission Clutch Tool Fathers Day Gift - Amazon.com
Anyways, its back together and on to the next task; the brakes which are side pull univerals so that should be easy.
Reply
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Nice looking Bianchi, digging the mudguards. The CdI in the background looks nice too.
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Ideally, the VAR #13 or the unobtanium Campagnolo #772. Practically, just grasping the knurled nut, by hand or with a slip-jaw pliers ought to work.
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