SR Laprade 26.4 too short?
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SR Laprade 26.4 too short?
I just got a new RM-10 from Sekine, the seat post is a SR Laprade 26.4, the frame is a 58cm champion no 2, which should fit me perfectly like my other 58cm bikes, however, the seatpost is too short, I have raised way above the minimum insertion and I feel that it even needs an extra 0.5 inch higher! why is this Laprade so short like that?! Do they come in different lengths? Would 49°N Alloy Seatpost part number 058817102394 be a good alternative?
P.s. my allegro club tour has a 27 :aprade that is decent length, I haven't measured neither so I'm not certain, perhaps the height of the saddle itself also factors in?!
P.s. my allegro club tour has a 27 :aprade that is decent length, I haven't measured neither so I'm not certain, perhaps the height of the saddle itself also factors in?!
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That is how tall seatposts we're back in the day. I would question whether a 58cm frame actually fits you if you need that much post showing on a level top tube frame.
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I'd like to see an overall shot of the bike. From what I see, your seatpost appears to be way too tall for the frame size--in other words, the frame appears to be too small for you.
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That Laprade is plenty strong I am quite sure. Nice thick walls. So if you hit a hard unexpected bump, nothing will happen except that highly leveraged seatpost end will push the thin-walled tubing of your seatpost out on the front side, right about at where a tubing sticker might be. A quite visible reminder of that bump. Everyone who is curious about your frame's tubing and pedigree will see it.
Not especially dangerous but it will devalue your frame a lot. Now if the end is up into the lug, more leverage and breaing things there could be quite interesting. I wouldn't place a bet on you staying off the pavement.
Minimum insertion marks are for the bike much more than they are for the seatpost. Otherwise we'd have seatposts with stronger walls and shorter insertion distances to save weight.
Not especially dangerous but it will devalue your frame a lot. Now if the end is up into the lug, more leverage and breaing things there could be quite interesting. I wouldn't place a bet on you staying off the pavement.
Minimum insertion marks are for the bike much more than they are for the seatpost. Otherwise we'd have seatposts with stronger walls and shorter insertion distances to save weight.
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any seatpost long enough should do as long as it's the right diameter. Is there a coop near you that might have seatposts that size?
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BUT, I should add, none of these are as extreme as that. Usually it's a cm or so too short.
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Wonder how long his stem is. If the frame is too small, as suspected, he might really be bunched up.
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guys, like I mentioned, 58cm is my right size! I did some research and found out this seatpost comes in different lengths, the Sekine is pretty short compared to the Allegro Laprade!
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You may think so...But only judging by the photos...I'd say you're wrong.
No worries, though. If you're riding a too-small frame, it'll be lighter and stiffer! Many racers would ride smaller frames for just such reasons.
No worries, though. If you're riding a too-small frame, it'll be lighter and stiffer! Many racers would ride smaller frames for just such reasons.
Last edited by smd4; 08-05-22 at 07:56 AM.
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No mention of the saddle.
there is no standard of saddle rails to sitting surface.
you might need a different saddle.
many leather saddles are of a tall style.
or a Cinelli 4L- extra padding
there is no standard of saddle rails to sitting surface.
you might need a different saddle.
many leather saddles are of a tall style.
or a Cinelli 4L- extra padding
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The rear tire is standing on a step actually, giving people a false impression, 58cm gives me ideal reach, I raise the seat tube to make my legs fully extended at the bottom of the strokes p.s. I have long legs
Now real question related to the main topic, does the new seatpost have to be 26.4 like the one I have, can I get away with a different size few mm up, say 27.2?!
Now real question related to the main topic, does the new seatpost have to be 26.4 like the one I have, can I get away with a different size few mm up, say 27.2?!
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That's a big negative. You're stuck with a 26.4.
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Yeah, that'll do it. I find myself most comfortable with my saddle 1-1.5cm higher than the standard recommendation for my inseam length. I seem to be able to put out power more efficiently with my toes pointed a bit, and at 77,4cm I feel like I'm pedaling flatfooted. As long as your hips aren't rocking and you're not overextending.
Now real question related to the main topic, does the new seatpost have to be 26.4 like the one I have, can I get away with a different size few mm up, say 27.2?!
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My (and presumably others') comments aren't based on wherever the rear wheel is placed; there's no false impression. It's based on the extraordinary height of your seatpost. If you have to raise the seatpost that high to get proper leg extension, then the frame is too small. p.s., much of frame sizing is based on your leg length--not your "reach."
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I'm a hair under 6'2'', most charts that I know of recommend 58cm, I never rode anything above 58cm but bikes with bigger frames already look like they have a considerable head tube length increase which doesn't look aesthetically pleasing to my eye, in terms of proportionality, I feel 58cm is perfect!
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Six foot two?? With long legs??
Sorry. In my opinion...that frame is WAY TOO SMALL for you!
And the seatpost is on my side.
Sorry. In my opinion...that frame is WAY TOO SMALL for you!
And the seatpost is on my side.
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Good grief. There's a lot of talk that the guy's riding the wrong sized frame. The right frame 1) allows his best fit (perhaps with unusual stem and post, 2) places the wheels in the right place for weight balance, good handling and perhaps pannier clearance and 3) does ll the rest of what that rider needs (attachments, fenders, etc.
Now, people come in a huge variety of shapes, sizes and proportions. Production bikes in a rather narrow range. The best compromise bike that meets 3), does OK on 2) may require "out there" parts to meet 1) but if that can be done, the bike works.
I have a classically designed custom bike patterned loosely off my racing bike that fit me perfectly, although I had to ride it with more arm bend than optimum, not an issue as a very fit 25 yo racer doing 10k years. I rode the race bike with its stock 11cm stem. At the advice of the framebuilder, I put the same on the bike he built. Within a year I had a used 13 on there. Much better. Decades later I had a huge stem custom made for another bike, 180mm -17 quill. Best fit I'd ever ridden. That old custom later got a 155 -22. Yeah! Currently a Pearl 14 is on there, which I believe is longer. The 155 in on a bike I just picked up which has an identical main triangle to that old custom.
I also have a custom with geometry I spec'd to get the fit with an ordinary stem. Love it, except it has speed wobbles. I've learned that pushing frame geometry to get the fit for me is exactly what the traditional frame designers of bikes with "the ride" stay away from. Probably because of those wobbles. So - the best existence for me on a bike appears to be riding bikes that "don't fit" and require huge stems. BFers have already told me that the bikes I own with dream rides are wrong. (Other BFers who've ridden with me have spoken up and vouched that what I ride works.)
Here we have the OP who we've never seen being told his fit is wrong because a short seatpost like the very limited old Campy NR isn't long enough. (That post would work just fine for me - if I could get the seat pushed far enough back. I raced with the the start of the rail bend right at the clamp. Later, I broke several titanium seat railset up the same and now use large setback seaposts on most of my bikes. (Some of that is for 2) above - getting the wheels located for best weight balance. I do best with short chainstays and therefore steep seat tubes if I want tire and fender clearance Really I should be riding with curved seatposts but I haven't made that jump yet.)
I've been dealing with my unusual fit for so long I skip the lecture on what other "should" ride and just try to help them make their bikes work best for them.
Now, people come in a huge variety of shapes, sizes and proportions. Production bikes in a rather narrow range. The best compromise bike that meets 3), does OK on 2) may require "out there" parts to meet 1) but if that can be done, the bike works.
I have a classically designed custom bike patterned loosely off my racing bike that fit me perfectly, although I had to ride it with more arm bend than optimum, not an issue as a very fit 25 yo racer doing 10k years. I rode the race bike with its stock 11cm stem. At the advice of the framebuilder, I put the same on the bike he built. Within a year I had a used 13 on there. Much better. Decades later I had a huge stem custom made for another bike, 180mm -17 quill. Best fit I'd ever ridden. That old custom later got a 155 -22. Yeah! Currently a Pearl 14 is on there, which I believe is longer. The 155 in on a bike I just picked up which has an identical main triangle to that old custom.
I also have a custom with geometry I spec'd to get the fit with an ordinary stem. Love it, except it has speed wobbles. I've learned that pushing frame geometry to get the fit for me is exactly what the traditional frame designers of bikes with "the ride" stay away from. Probably because of those wobbles. So - the best existence for me on a bike appears to be riding bikes that "don't fit" and require huge stems. BFers have already told me that the bikes I own with dream rides are wrong. (Other BFers who've ridden with me have spoken up and vouched that what I ride works.)
Here we have the OP who we've never seen being told his fit is wrong because a short seatpost like the very limited old Campy NR isn't long enough. (That post would work just fine for me - if I could get the seat pushed far enough back. I raced with the the start of the rail bend right at the clamp. Later, I broke several titanium seat railset up the same and now use large setback seaposts on most of my bikes. (Some of that is for 2) above - getting the wheels located for best weight balance. I do best with short chainstays and therefore steep seat tubes if I want tire and fender clearance Really I should be riding with curved seatposts but I haven't made that jump yet.)
I've been dealing with my unusual fit for so long I skip the lecture on what other "should" ride and just try to help them make their bikes work best for them.
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Good grief. There's a lot of talk that the guy's riding the wrong sized frame. The right frame 1) allows his best fit (perhaps with unusual stem and post, 2) places the wheels in the right place for weight balance, good handling and perhaps pannier clearance and 3) does ll the rest of what that rider needs (attachments, fenders, etc.
But like I said--plenty of pros ride rode frames that were too small, to save weight and get a stiffer bike.
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I'm a hair under 6'2'', most charts that I know of recommend 58cm, I never rode anything above 58cm but bikes with bigger frames already look like they have a considerable head tube length increase which doesn't look aesthetically pleasing to my eye, in terms of proportionality, I feel 58cm is perfect!
I started trying bigger bikes over several years, and now I think 57 is my preferred size, but I can easily ride a 58.
I'm 5'9"
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I really do have some sympathy for you because when I first started posting on the sub-forum I was sharing pictures of a 54cm bike that a lot of people told me was way too small for me. I had the saddle and bars in a relative position that worked for me, but in retrospect I see that they were right.
I started trying bigger bikes over several years, and now I think 57 is my preferred size, but I can easily ride a 58.
I'm 5'9"
I started trying bigger bikes over several years, and now I think 57 is my preferred size, but I can easily ride a 58.
I'm 5'9"
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I'm no expert but I know there is some controversy regarding frame size, sizing based on height seems like an acceptable compromise and it gives me 58 cm, I personally don't think a 61 cm would make that big of a difference from a 58 cm, that's only 1 inch longer seat tube, I would still need to swap the short seatpost!!!
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As difficult as it is, a lot of people here figured they would size me from the length of the seat post, here is an actual picture of my Atala, again, I don't see why I would get a bigger and heavier bike that is only 1 inch higher in the seat tube, if I can just adjust the seat post to fit my legs, I probably could lower it half an inch, but I like to have my leg fully extended at the bottom of the stroke, for a 61cm frame, I will raise the seat post still anyways!!!
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I have this one that similar in set up to yours. With this bike I feel confined, the saddle to bar level is too much. This puts more pressure on my hands than I want. If I'm only riding twenty minutes to an hour I'm good, but after 50-60 miles I'll have wrist issue, and with that saddle to bar levels takes away the use of the handlebar drops.
Here is one that I have set up like yours, and one I set for comfort.
The Peugeot is small is 60 cm ctt seatube, and the Univega is tall is 63 cm ctc.
Here is one that I have set up like yours, and one I set for comfort.
The Peugeot is small is 60 cm ctt seatube, and the Univega is tall is 63 cm ctc.
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I'm no expert but I know there is some controversy regarding frame size, sizing based on height seems like an acceptable compromise and it gives me 58 cm, I personally don't think a 61 cm would make that big of a difference from a 58 cm, that's only 1 inch longer seat tube, I would still need to swap the short seatpost!!!
That said, would any American Classic seatposts work? I thought they were longer than others, but very high quality.