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Is there a wrench for this?

Old 07-26-22, 07:40 AM
  #26  
Mr. 66
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Originally Posted by bulgie View Post
Yeah I thought those nuts had a nub on the backside. It may be intended to fit on the Left side of the bike ('non-drive side" for those who have trouble with right-left)

I have some nuts that are a plain cylinder with M6 thread and a 6 mm allen socket. They came with Gipiemme brake bridges, for recessed brake mounting. Not the normal "top hat" shape of brake nut though, just the cylinder without the flange. Oh right, here's a picture:



They are somewhat precious to me but I will sell one for $10 shipped in the US, if that'll help you. It'll leave me with one brake bridge without a nut, but I'm unlikely to use that bridge anyway...

One disadvantage of this type is the bolt needs to be just the right length. Too long and it fills up the allen socket; too short and you don't have enough threads engaged. A stainless bolt can be trimmed to just the right length without the cut end rusting, if that matters to you.

Dimensions 10 mm diameter, 10 mm long, 6 mm length of threads. Chrome plated.

Mark B in Seattle
I used a nut like that on my Gran Premio Univega, I eventually switched to a 5mm Allen nut from a V-brake brakepads.
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Old 07-26-22, 08:51 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jo_lacs View Post
+1
As I mentioned in my original post, I've tried a chainring wrench. It didn't work at all. I imagine with some filing it could be made too work. I'll have to see what I have in the parts bin.
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Old 07-26-22, 09:01 AM
  #28  
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I'm still out of town (coffeeneuring at Tosi's in St Joe, MI this morning). I will disassemble things when I'm back home (on the weekend) and take pix. My guess is this was how Miyata did their seatpost binders, so it was probably a stick part of some framebuilding supply place inn the early 80s. My understanding is the Univega Super Speciale frame was in reality a Miyata something-or-other. This thought is reinforced by the comment by SurferRosa about using JB Weld to solve the same issue on a Miyata 812.

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Old 07-26-22, 10:17 AM
  #29  
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I have a SR Maxima that has the same binder bolt, it can be tightened with using only a allen wrench. Mine was mounted with the slotted side of the nut facing inside the seat lug. The slotted side is slightly beveled on the edge, I'm thinking that's what holds it in place while it's being tightened. Try flipping the nut, maybe it'll tighten up.
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Old 07-26-22, 10:19 AM
  #30  
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I have a Miyata 1000 with that same seat post bolt. There is no slot in the frame or tab on the bolt/nut. The nut will not take an allen wrench either; so I put mine in a little plastic bag marked 'original Miyata seat post bolt" and used a quick release clamp that I had in the bin o'parts.
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Old 07-26-22, 11:46 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by smontanaro View Post
... reinforced by the comment by SurferRosa about using JB Weld to solve the same issue on a Miyata 812.
912!! 912!! How dare you discount my 912 (!) by 11 percent!!!



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Old 07-26-22, 12:17 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
912!! 912!! How dare you discount my 912 (!) by 11 percent!!!
Sorry, my brain was foggy from the croissant.
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Old 07-26-22, 12:51 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
912!! 912!! How dare you discount my 912 (!) by 11 percent!!!



11%??? Better check the batteries in your calculator. 😋😁
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Old 07-29-22, 05:48 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by stardognine View Post
11%??? Better check the batteries in your calculator.
What am I missing?

(912-812)/912 = .109
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Old 07-29-22, 06:10 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
What am I missing?

(912-812)/912 = .109
Well nevermind then, if you're gonna use that newfangled math, like algebra or trigonometry or whatever ya got there. 🤔 I got my mind fried on that math stuff, just switching to "new math", in the '60s. 🙄😉 You couldn't even get help from your parents, cause they were confused too. Maybe even more than us kids. 😟
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Old 07-29-22, 06:16 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by stardognine View Post
Well nevermind then, if you're gonna use that newfangled math, like algebra or trigonometry or whatever ya got there.
Just basic math. No variables; no angles.
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Old 07-29-22, 07:09 PM
  #37  
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Old 07-29-22, 10:18 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
Thank you. ✌️ I dunno, I can spell and punctuate properly just fine, but my math circuitry is definitely faulty. 😟

And it doesn't help anything, when I reply to threads, as if it were a competition, sometimes. 🙄 I know I should use some restraint, but apparently I don't have enough sense to actually do so.

I'm gonna work on that. 🤐
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Old 07-30-22, 12:12 AM
  #39  
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Just make your own tool from some flat stock steel. But first clean that nut-slot up with a file. Put a handle on it, or hold it with pliers. Never use a tapered blade screwdriver on a straight walled screw slot. Use a hollow ground blade. Good Luck.
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Old 07-30-22, 01:03 AM
  #40  
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Everyone is guessing about all of this c**p and how to make a bad idea work....

My first question is what does the other side look like? Please post a picture of the NDS and the rear of the lug.

A photo is worth more than a thousand guesses!!!

verktyg retro grouch!!! ;50;

Sorry for being so nasty...
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Old 07-30-22, 11:14 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by brian3069 View Post
I have a SR Maxima that has the same binder bolt, it can be tightened with using only a allen wrench. Mine was mounted with the slotted side of the nut facing inside the seat lug. The slotted side is slightly beveled on the edge, I'm thinking that's what holds it in place while it's being tightened. Try flipping the nut, maybe it'll tighten up.
I am intrigued by your post and I think that you are lucky that it clamped and held. I can't imagine a clamping system like that.
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Last edited by dweenk; 07-30-22 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 07-30-22, 07:41 PM
  #42  
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These kind of binder arrangements are actually the best imo, mainly because the ordinary kind of 8.8- or 12.9-grade "socket head cap screw" tends to be a lot stronger than the typical, shouldered and headed "Cr-MO" binder bolt. I've never broken one!

The nut should be on the left side. And the nut (if it doesn't press-fit into the lug socket on the left side) should be fixed in place with Loctite or other adhesive.

Lastly, the seatpost slippage may be remedied by simply lubricating the bolt/nut threads, which will better convert bolt torque into clamping force, while lessening the unwanted turning force on the nut in the lug socket (so the bolt can draw up tight instead of the nut just spinning in it's bore).
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Old 07-31-22, 02:36 PM
  #43  
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I'm back from Michigan and starting to catch up on email. I spent a bit of time with the Univega this afternoon. As far as I can tell, the "ports" on the left and right side of the binder assembly are identical. Switching left-to-right won't improve things by itself. The 26.8 seatpost is a perfect fit (nice parallel slot). It doesn't slip when I can get the bolt & nut snugged up. I searched through my box of odd small wrenches and found one to modify. Aside from too much underbiking which wrecked a nice tubular, I've solved the problems with the Univega


Seatpost slot detail

Nut detail

Modified "wrench"
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Old 07-31-22, 02:57 PM
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You went all the ways to Michigan just for coffee, but refused to buy a new binder bolt? 🤔😁😉
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Old 07-31-22, 03:11 PM
  #45  
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The same type of nut was used on handsaws in the 19th century and various other old machinery. Generally known as "Split nuts" Thinking about it, most binder bolts also resemble the type of saw nut that replaced split nuts starting around 1870ish. The usual answer for old tool retrogrouch equivlents is to get a wide blade screwdriver and fie or hack saw a slot for the bolt. Alternatively, spend years digging through old tool boxes at flea markers and tag sales until you find a century old one. I've done both, but the former is much quicker.

Split nut saw nuts: https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-1157.../dp/B07CJ8SGJV
saw nuts: https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Screw...79480386&psc=1
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Old 08-02-22, 12:47 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by brian3069 View Post
I have a SR Maxima that has the same binder bolt, it can be tightened with using only a allen wrench. Mine was mounted with the slotted side of the nut facing inside the seat lug. The slotted side is slightly beveled on the edge, I'm thinking that's what holds it in place while it's being tightened. Try flipping the nut, maybe it'll tighten up.
Would the diameter of the bolt and nut be about 13mm?
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Old 08-02-22, 03:04 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by dweenk View Post
Would the diameter of the bolt and nut be about 13mm?
No, the diameter is 10mm.
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Old 08-02-22, 08:55 PM
  #48  
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I've got one like that too. I don't have a tool for it, I hold a small screwdriver in one of the notches while I tighten the screw.
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Old 08-03-22, 09:37 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by sloar View Post
almost looks like the back part of a chainring bolt, maybe try a chainring wrench
too small for that tool.

I would flip the bolt just for grins
originally the bolt faced the drive side
lube the bolt not the slotted nut.
with the bolt away from the bike thread the bolt and nut together and check for fair threading and bolt straightness.

I am not fond of this design.
I would consider a longer bolt, bushing and a nylock nut that you can get some purchase on.
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Old 08-15-22, 11:21 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by smontanaro View Post
So, two questions for the assembled experts. One, what was the problem? Two, what caused it? Hint: I use a Saris Bones rack. The first to answer both questions correctly will get a small bike-related gift in the mail.
Did we get an answer to this?
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