jaxgtr

I been using Time ATAC pedals (2 bolt) on all my bikes for several years. Road and Off Road, great pedal system.

SoSmellyAir

Among SPD-SL pedals, only Ultegra and Dura-Ace are available with longer (+ 4 mm) spindles, which allow more toe out and are more comfortable for me (at least on my road bike). This article explains how newer BB standards drives the need for longer spindles (at least for some people).

Why We Like Longer Pedal Spindles - Slowtwitch.com

I am glad to hear that SPD pedals are easier to clip in and out than SPD-SL pedals. I am still using flat pedals (with pins) on gravel, but have a pair of XT pedals for after I get more comfortable on uneven terrain.

Broctoon

That would be a compelling reason to opt for Ultegra, if you need a wider stance. For guys like me with narrow hips, it's a non-issue.

Of course any decent pedal design will have an adjustment for the retention/release force. You can turn it way down on a set of SPD-SLs, and they're quite easy to get out of. This means they're also easier to inadvertently release, so you have to find the balance you're comfortable with. I think it sill holds that generally speaking, SPD are easier.

PeteHski

This is what prompted me go from 105 to DuraAce pedals. I run a bit of toe-out on my cleats and while there is just enough lateral adjustment on the cleats to work with the standard spindle length, the cleats are more centred on my shoes with the +4 mm version. While riding I can't tell any difference though. But it's definitely a valid point if you need a wider fit.

SoSmellyAir

Are you calling me fat? It is true, especially by road cycling standards.

ArgoMan

Thanks for all the responses. Here's some additional info:

• I have no problems with my knees. In fact they're very strong (I'm 54). I squat, dead lift, and I'm robust, to say the least.
• I currently use the old Campy style pedals with metal clips on my bikes. Have been for years. They work really well. I don't use straps. I'm able to get my feet in and out of position effortlessly.
• I'm pretty fast with my current set up. I hang with or beat younger riders on fast breakaways as a norm.
• One poster asked why I want clip less, as I'll only get "marginal gains. If so, why do I want clip less? And I guess that's where I'm at now. Should I even switch out for clip less? Is so, are 105s the way to go?

urbanknight

In my opinion, both the Look Keo and Shimano SPD-SL are fairly maintenance free and solid performing pedals. Both of them are modern variations on the original Look Delta system from what I can tell. I loved Speedplays, but got tired of them squeaking any time I didn't keep them perfectly clean, lubed, and spotless.

The OP said "short fast rides", but by all means MTB pedals are very useful for anyone who doesn't like walking like a duck before and after riding. I'm fond of Wellgo SPD pedals and use them on my commuter/gravel bike.

urbanknight

Personally, I feel more at one with the bike. I also feel like I'm faster when I have a smooth and "circular" pedal stroke, even if it's only in my head. I have been using 105 level for almost 15 years now, and they are great as long as you're not all that concerned about weight.

Broctoon

For most riders, clipless pedals of any kind provide only marginal gains. Just as a lighter frame only provides marginal gains. And integrated brake/shift levers... or any modern biking innovation.

The pedals will not be a total game changer, but many thousands of riders have found they make enough difference to justify the cost. Don't listen to those who say pedals (or disc brakes, carbon fiber parts, or whatever else) are just marketing nonsense. There's no conspiracy among big bike companies to push products that nobody needs. Those of us who've been using clipless pedals for years and prefer them in many riding situations have not been duped by greedy profiteers while remaining too naive to realize it.

In other words, it sounds like you're a strong, performance oriented recreational rider, and I believe you will like clipless pedals if you get them.

I think you would not go wrong with 105s. Likewise with Wahoos, or even with 2-bolt SPDs. They're all good.

Sapper69

Lots of good replies here and ultimately this comes down to personal preference. Shimano 105 is a good pedal and the best value for money compared to Ultegra or Dura Ace. I saw someone else recommend the red (no float) SPD-SL cleats but I'd suggest avoiding those if you're a first time clipless pedal user. The blue ones have minimum float, just enough unclip easily enough. But new Shimano pedals normally come with yellow (maximum float) cleats in the box, so you could start with those then upgrade to blues or reds if you feel like you need less float, depending what type of riding you do, experience level etc.

Sapper69

Actually another good budget Shimano option if you're just doing touring or commuting is the PD-ED500, with SPD (not SPD-SL) cleats on one side and flat on the other. You can use these with road/racing shoes or touring/MTB shoes with recessed SPD cleats which are easier to walk on. I still have an earlier version of these on my flat bar road bike, which I normally ride with touring shoes but sometimes done even bother, for example a short ride up to the shops I'll just leave my normal running shoes on.​​​​​

PeteHski

Even if the OP was totally obsessed about weight, 105 pedals are probably lighter than his current pedals and only a few grams heavier than DuraAce.

PeteHski

Just get the 105 pedals and discover for yourself at relatively low cost why clipless pedals are used by every current road racer on the planet. It’s true that they are not going to make you significantly faster, but they are the best solution for the job and all modern cycling shoes are optimised around them. What shoes are you currently using with clips?

You may or may not find there is a learning curve when you first try clipless pedals. I don’t remember it being an issue, but it was a very long time ago for me (mid 80’s with Look pedals).

Sy Reene

105s would be a standard default foray into clipless. Consider the Wahoo speedplays (dual side entry is nice). I assume you would also need a new pair of 3-bolt shoes. Not sure I'd recommend keeping the experiment too cheap -- bad shoes could partly contribute to an unimpressive experience.

Unfortunately clipless pedals and a setup pair of shoes aren't really items you could try out and return. FYI, Excel has decent discounts on shoes right now, and actually on the Ultegra pedals -- making them only marginally more than 105s

https://www.excelsports.com/shimano-...-spd-sl-pedals

ArgoMan

Thanks to all for all the great info. So, I stopped by my local LBS today. They're selling the 105s for $150, but are having a sale on the R550s for $50. Now, I don't mind spending a few bucks on a "better" product. But when I held each pedal in my hands and compared them, I just couldn't tell the difference. They both spun nicely. The 105 seemed a hair lighter, which I don't care about. The salesguy - who's a good dude - told me not to even waste the money on the 105s. He even suggested that scan the net for a set of Look Keo 2 Max's, which I see going on Amazon for about $95.

So there it is: should I get the R550s for 50 bucks or the Look Keo 2 Max? Money is not the issue.

jaxgtr

The R550 would be fine and will give you a great quality product for a lower cost. I used R550 for several years and never had an issue with them. I would also recommend the yellow cleat, which I believe they come with.

urbanknight

I am very happy with my R550 pedals and use them to this day after riding clipless pedals for 30 years on various different brands and models.

Sapper69

The R550s are perfectly fine, as others have said. I still have a pair on one of my older bikes. At least in the earlier models they're almost indistinguishable from the 105s except for a slightly narrower platform. They'll be a good set of pedals to start with clipless.

cyclezen

We all have choices, and reasons for using a particular type of equipment. Flats, or clipless or old skool Toe clip style, have their considered advantages and disadvantages.
Here's my reasons to use 'clipless' on road bikes (and gravel). ON road rides rarely (like 'never' for me) require me to 'Dab' a shoe down... The link between shoe and pedal is important for efficient pedal stroke, especially as one rides into higher cadences - the difference is noticeable at 70 rpm + and when at 90 or more, very marked... Some one who rides at a slow cadence and isn't too interested in what degree pedaling efficiency they reach - flats are fine. Old school toe clips worked, but had their issues also.
A main reason for riding 'clipless' is the shoe which you then use. No question the best performance road oriented shoes work best with clipless design. Those could be 'road' 3 bolt shoes or the performance mtb 2 bolt shoes (which will be heavier, but also easier to walk on when off the bike).
So I would suggest narrowing/selecting the shoes which you'll use at the same time as choosing the pedals.
I think you'll find many/most of the clipless designs will work great - depending on specifics you desire.
I'll add in a few
Crank Bros Eggbeater designs - are originally mtb pedals but work great on road applications - I have a bunch of my bikes setup with Crank Bros eggbeaters and Candys (eggbeater with a wraparound shoe support) allows me to just grab my shoe and not worry about what pedals I might have on the bike I want to ride. Secure and 'all-sided', so there's never a problem of searching for the correct side, just to clip in... searching with your foot to be on the clip-in side is a skill - not hard, but for some riders, a PITA.
I also have 'road pedals' - SPD-SL cleat design from Shimano as well as some Looks, both are fine, good, no difference to me.
I know a lot of very good riders who ride/race speedplay.... some on TIME pedals... You won;t be disappointed in any of them, if they suit your needs and wants/likes.
There are shoe designs which can work with both the 3 bolt 'road' cleats and the 2 bolt mtb cleat ...
For casual rides, where I might be on and off the bike often, and walking around, I'll use mtb type shoes with the eggbeaters... For rides where - it ride hard or get shelled - very little off the bike, if at all, I'll have a bike for those rides and they will have 3 bolt road and the best performances shoes I have.
Find a good performance, fitting, comfy shoe you like... check the bolt pattern - and then pick from the pedals which work best with that shoe. (When you get new shoes, they'll very likely work with the pedals also...) Good cycling shoes can last for many years and rides, if taken care of.
If you have to ride in rain, then get a pair shoes which you use for those conditions, and a pair for best conditions...
Ride On
Yuri