Centurion frame
#1
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Centurion frame
SOLD
frame n fork plus bb and headset
58 cm CTC
the brake bosses seem high, but what do know
frame n fork plus bb and headset
58 cm CTC
the brake bosses seem high, but what do know
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Last edited by Robvolz; 11-16-23 at 01:56 PM.
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#4
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Those center pull studs makes it the first year of the pro tour, 1978. One of the earliest production touring bikes for the US market, the only competitor at the time was the Fuji America.
I'm glad it is too big for me :}
I'm glad it is too big for me :}
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#6
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Hey all,
listen up.
it’s been pointed out to me that the DS fork brake boss is cock-eyed. See pic.
I hadn’t noticed. Even when pointed out I assumed an optical illusion. I was wrong.
So, I next asked head mechanic who worked for years the Ironman races in Hawaii. He said he would rather not, especially as a mechanic and not a Framebuilder.
my next step is to either visit my friend Bob of Bantam or Sasha, formerly of Speedvagen/Vanilla and get their opinion.
if they say scrap, I will.
or, if you are a Framebuilder yourself and know this is something you can handle with aplomb, I’ll take $50 off.
a public shout out to an eagle-eyed friend who pointed this out!!
robert
listen up.
it’s been pointed out to me that the DS fork brake boss is cock-eyed. See pic.
I hadn’t noticed. Even when pointed out I assumed an optical illusion. I was wrong.
So, I next asked head mechanic who worked for years the Ironman races in Hawaii. He said he would rather not, especially as a mechanic and not a Framebuilder.
my next step is to either visit my friend Bob of Bantam or Sasha, formerly of Speedvagen/Vanilla and get their opinion.
if they say scrap, I will.
or, if you are a Framebuilder yourself and know this is something you can handle with aplomb, I’ll take $50 off.
a public shout out to an eagle-eyed friend who pointed this out!!
robert
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Before scrapping it, I’d replace the fork or even cut off the mounts and use a regular caliper or center pull brake. But any frame builder can probably just replace the bent mount (and repair/repaint).
#8
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You said repair/repaint. On a donated frame at a co-op. That we are trying to sell for $250.
The whole attraction to this frame is it's historical significance being the first touring frame sold in America, and the quirky brake bosses.
yes, I could swap the fork but then I'll just make it into a $150 townie to sell in the shop. Or place it in the pile to be distributed for those who can't afford a bike.
To have a long campy dropout replaced on a Colnago, I went to two different frame-bulders who wanted $400 and $450.
I went with the $450 because he said it could be done in 60 days. It wasn't.
Five months later I got it back. Now its been at a painter for a year. As a joke, I sent the painter an anniversary card.
The whole attraction to this frame is it's historical significance being the first touring frame sold in America, and the quirky brake bosses.
yes, I could swap the fork but then I'll just make it into a $150 townie to sell in the shop. Or place it in the pile to be distributed for those who can't afford a bike.
To have a long campy dropout replaced on a Colnago, I went to two different frame-bulders who wanted $400 and $450.
I went with the $450 because he said it could be done in 60 days. It wasn't.
Five months later I got it back. Now its been at a painter for a year. As a joke, I sent the painter an anniversary card.
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Last edited by Robvolz; 11-03-23 at 12:12 PM.
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#9
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Ok
i heard from my Framebuilder buddy. When asked if the boss could be bent back….
he states: Not really. Not anyway to keep it round when bending it back… if you can still thread a bolt all the way in, maybe it’ll work. But I wouldn’t count on it.
And replacing it is problematic because of the chrome.
but, he also said maybe a brake bit could still work if the shoe is angled in.
if someone REALLY wants this….$200
otherwise it will go away.
i heard from my Framebuilder buddy. When asked if the boss could be bent back….
he states: Not really. Not anyway to keep it round when bending it back… if you can still thread a bolt all the way in, maybe it’ll work. But I wouldn’t count on it.
And replacing it is problematic because of the chrome.
but, he also said maybe a brake bit could still work if the shoe is angled in.
if someone REALLY wants this….$200
otherwise it will go away.
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#11
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I do honestly like my painter. We get together often on Mondays over a stout and catch up. Some of his stories have made me cry from laughter. Then at the 8 month mark, I asked how my frame was coming along. Bad idea.
He lashed out a lil about "this is why I don't take private people's paint jobs, that dealing with professionals is so much better because they don't harass me."
We still meet for beers. I just don't bring up my frame. Thought this would be a "cheeky" way to nudge him and let him know its been a freaking year already.
He lashed out a lil about "this is why I don't take private people's paint jobs, that dealing with professionals is so much better because they don't harass me."
We still meet for beers. I just don't bring up my frame. Thought this would be a "cheeky" way to nudge him and let him know its been a freaking year already.
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"Leave the gun. Take the Colnagos."
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Last edited by Robvolz; 11-16-23 at 01:53 PM.
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#12
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Has anyone looked into a repair "kit" for this bent brake boss? I know they were made to repair mangled MTB bosses so perhaps work for the CP bosses too? And did not require brazing or welding AFAIK, at least the ones I'm thinking of.
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There's gotta be an acceptable Mcgyvor. 'What bends out must bend in' is my motto. Give er'
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There's cockeyed and there's cockeyed.
Bolt an old centerpull onto it and see if it fits and the calipers move freely.
Bolt an old centerpull onto it and see if it fits and the calipers move freely.
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I got a second opinion, and they basically said the same thing, using a hardened bolt, thread into the boss, and pull like a mofo
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if they are the upgraded solid all around it might be a heftier pull.
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One thing would require a good machinist, cut off the bent part, drill and thread the old boss on the fork, get a new Canti/Vbrake braze on, cut it down, and thread it to screw into the fork.
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Maybe I’m under-thinking this, but if the threads are still good, why can’t we bolt a cheater bar (angle iron etc) and bend it back? (brace the dropouts with an old hub or threaded bolt/nuts to prevent blade twisting, and clamp the fork in a vice with 2x4s on both sides of the crown)
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Of course a closer look-see to make certain it wasn't made that way. Unlikely for a Centurion but still.
#20
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Honestly it should bend back with little issue. Heck trying should not hurt anything.
You want the correct bolt at the end of a long (2 feet or so) cheater bar. I would weld the bolt to the bar. The longer the bar. The least amount of energy you need to apply to bend. At that point you can gently bend it back.
Replacing that stud should be trivial for any frame builder but I would try to bent back into shape first.
You want the correct bolt at the end of a long (2 feet or so) cheater bar. I would weld the bolt to the bar. The longer the bar. The least amount of energy you need to apply to bend. At that point you can gently bend it back.
Replacing that stud should be trivial for any frame builder but I would try to bent back into shape first.
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#21
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I'm in the just bolt on a set of centerpulls and see how they look camp. There is no brake bridge holding the two arms of the center pulls; brake pads can be adjusted to meet the rim properly. The only thing that needs to be checked is if the two arms interfere with each other or not. The one issue might be getting proper brake sleeves for the arms - it's been too long since I swapped my brakes to remember what all is needed.
If I didn't already have one (in my size), I'd be hitting you up for this bike. It's fully chromed under that paint (with hand-painted lug lines and pin striping!), it rides really well (even unloaded), and is unique in the touring bike boom. It came with 27" wheels, but 700c fit easily and opens up your world to tire suppleness and size (I can easily fit 38's on mine, but haven't tried fenders yet). I could go on...
I know the paint isn't in great shape, but there's a lot to work with on this frame.
Mountaindave
If I didn't already have one (in my size), I'd be hitting you up for this bike. It's fully chromed under that paint (with hand-painted lug lines and pin striping!), it rides really well (even unloaded), and is unique in the touring bike boom. It came with 27" wheels, but 700c fit easily and opens up your world to tire suppleness and size (I can easily fit 38's on mine, but haven't tried fenders yet). I could go on...
I know the paint isn't in great shape, but there's a lot to work with on this frame.
Mountaindave
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With those various bend-it-back approaches, I’d be worried about twisting the fork blade unless one had some sort of jig to hold it in place.
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Still could twist though I guess rotationally.
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I bet it's been like that since new. Too bad it's so far away it's a great looking frame.
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