Gloves for numbness in hand
#1
Old Peddler
Thread Starter
Gloves for numbness in hand
Hello, I'm looking for fingerless gloves with the gel padding in the Ulnar nerve area.
Anybody have any experience with Pearl Izumi Elite?
Or another proven brand? My budget is $50.
thanks for any suggestions.
Dave
Anybody have any experience with Pearl Izumi Elite?
Or another proven brand? My budget is $50.
thanks for any suggestions.
Dave
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I think though gloves might help, though possibly the solution is different bars and bike fit. I can't ride with flat straight bars for long at all without hand numbness issues later that night. Too much support on the hands because of fit or flexibility-balance issues can also cause hand issues.
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#3
Senior Member
I use Pearl Izumi Elite gel gloves. The padding is good. I don't have any numbness. You might want to check your position too. Move the pressure points around.
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I pad my bars. https://www.bikeforums.net/21354043-post9.html
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The issue might be how you hold on to the hoods or where you put your hands. My palms are on the sides of my hoods. Just the web between thumb and forefinger and the pad of my thumb on the top of the hood.
Also I've been finding out lately that a good bend in the elbows moves a lot of forces from the hands to be absorbed and shared elsewhere. However it takes a while to get use to keeping that bend. Many probably won't like it at first especially if in that mindset that one must have to have a relaxed position.
Also I've been finding out lately that a good bend in the elbows moves a lot of forces from the hands to be absorbed and shared elsewhere. However it takes a while to get use to keeping that bend. Many probably won't like it at first especially if in that mindset that one must have to have a relaxed position.
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I used to buy Pearl Izumi Elite Gel. I liked them at the time, but the padding flattens out quite soon. I switched to Giro Strade Dure Supergel last year, and they fit my hands very well. Pretty durable, they are more than a year old and still good. My local bike shop has them. I like that the hiviz is on the top and on the palm side for signaling turns.
I had to try on different gloves brands. Some just didn't fit me at all.
Fitting:
Reducing excessive hand pressure on the bars will help a lot. I really like this easy test to see if the saddle and bars are set correctly: Set saddle fore-aft position.
I have my bars set high enough that I can use the drops comfortably. It's a huge help to be able to switch back and forth between drops and hoods. Riding in the drops helps a lot on rough roads, spreading the force over my whole palm. And the aero benefits are nice, of course. In the drops, my back and core are carrying a bit more of the load, instead of my arms and shoulders doing all the work.
I had to try on different gloves brands. Some just didn't fit me at all.
Fitting:
Reducing excessive hand pressure on the bars will help a lot. I really like this easy test to see if the saddle and bars are set correctly: Set saddle fore-aft position.
I have my bars set high enough that I can use the drops comfortably. It's a huge help to be able to switch back and forth between drops and hoods. Riding in the drops helps a lot on rough roads, spreading the force over my whole palm. And the aero benefits are nice, of course. In the drops, my back and core are carrying a bit more of the load, instead of my arms and shoulders doing all the work.
Last edited by rm -rf; 09-19-21 at 09:57 AM.
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#9
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This is the opposite of what you have in mind, but I'm riding Giro Zero CS gloves currently. They have as little padding as I've been able to find while still wearing gloves, which lets me get the "signal" to move my hands ASAP.
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My usual bar tape is 2 mm thick with minimal cushioning, and I like long fingered gloves with little or no padding. I am susceptible to numbness in my hands/fingers. I have spinal and shoulder issues that are just things to deal with. Gloves that are too tight and/or have more than minimum padding make the numbness/tingling happen quicker and more severe. Summer gloves are good it they are tight, but quite stretchy and allow moisture exchange. I change position on the bike quite a bit, and I stop more often, even if just for a moment or two. For me, those short moments add up to a more comfortable, enjoyable ride.
Finding gloves that I like, at a price I am willing to pay, Is easy, I buy from various etail and retail sources. IME, even cheap ones have good durability.
Finding gloves that I like, at a price I am willing to pay, Is easy, I buy from various etail and retail sources. IME, even cheap ones have good durability.
#11
Full Member
In response to some hand numbness issues, I've been trying some things with bike adjustment and some aspects of how I ride. I thought that glove padding (which I had previously been using) might complicate that process by sorta-kinda concealing problems.
If I reach a point where I think I have things really sorted out, I might try padded again to see if that makes things even better.
#13
Junior Member
I found that a Hot Glove Sting Pad Pro for each hand did the trick. These are meant to be used for baseball mitts, but if you look at Amazon you'll see that they have been adapted for other uses like under cycling gloves. I ended up hooking them on my thumbs and other than feeling squishy at rare
times, they have been a God-send. At $18 for two it's worth a try.
times, they have been a God-send. At $18 for two it's worth a try.
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Since you have flat bars, ignore the comments about bar tape, bar padding, hoods, etc. get a pair of bar ends made for flat bars, and use those to change positions occasionally.
And, the PI gloves you mentioned make a difference to me.
And, the PI gloves you mentioned make a difference to me.
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Good comments. Something I learned years ago is that I am in the habit of shaking hands out every 10 minutes or so. Use different hand each time I pull the water bottle, and switch hand position often.
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I really like this easy test to see if the saddle and bars are set correctly: Set saddle fore-aft position.
I have my bars set high enough that I can use the drops comfortably. It's a huge help to be able to switch back and forth between drops and hoods. Riding in the drops helps a lot on rough roads, spreading the force over my whole palm. And the aero benefits are nice, of course. In the drops, my back and core are carrying a bit more of the load, instead of my arms and shoulders doing all the work.
I have my bars set high enough that I can use the drops comfortably. It's a huge help to be able to switch back and forth between drops and hoods. Riding in the drops helps a lot on rough roads, spreading the force over my whole palm. And the aero benefits are nice, of course. In the drops, my back and core are carrying a bit more of the load, instead of my arms and shoulders doing all the work.
#17
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When I stop at a red light, I shake my hands and clap my palms together.
#18
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I think a better way to ask the question would be…Those of you who have experienced numb hands, what solutions have you found to eliminate it?
I have this issue now in my “molden” years - never an issue before. I have tried various recommended gloves as well added more padding to the bar and found there is no silver bullet other than moving your hand position and/or resting your hands when on the drops more on the outside of your palms toward the side of my hands.
If others who have the same issue have that silver bullet, I would surely like to know. Note, I will not get rid of my drops.
I have this issue now in my “molden” years - never an issue before. I have tried various recommended gloves as well added more padding to the bar and found there is no silver bullet other than moving your hand position and/or resting your hands when on the drops more on the outside of your palms toward the side of my hands.
If others who have the same issue have that silver bullet, I would surely like to know. Note, I will not get rid of my drops.
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Last edited by rsbob; 09-19-21 at 09:22 PM.
#19
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Back in 2012 I got my left hand crushed in a 1920s service elevator. No bones were broken, but there's nerve damage.
Since I've been using drop bars, I have a gel pad under the bar tape and then the Planet Bike Taurus gloves. Beyond that- changing hand positions and distributing weight are the most important. I generally ride with my palm on the corners- then move around to the ramps, tops and hoods.
If you're using flat bars, I'd think about bar ends and/or those 'Ergon' paddles. That would allow you to spread the weight across your palm instead of being concentrated in that one "bar." Additionally, the bar end allows for several different types of grip.
something like this:
And the Planet Bike gloves I've been using (BTW- the "Kevlar" thing is not solid or particularly rigid- my guess it's there for scuff protection if you fall):
Since I've been using drop bars, I have a gel pad under the bar tape and then the Planet Bike Taurus gloves. Beyond that- changing hand positions and distributing weight are the most important. I generally ride with my palm on the corners- then move around to the ramps, tops and hoods.
If you're using flat bars, I'd think about bar ends and/or those 'Ergon' paddles. That would allow you to spread the weight across your palm instead of being concentrated in that one "bar." Additionally, the bar end allows for several different types of grip.
something like this:
And the Planet Bike gloves I've been using (BTW- the "Kevlar" thing is not solid or particularly rigid- my guess it's there for scuff protection if you fall):
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Last edited by The Golden Boy; 09-20-21 at 11:54 AM.
#20
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So, I'm firmly in the camp of bike fit and weight balance, rider flexibility, and proper hand position are the primary ways to reduce any perceived hand discomfort when riding. The last thing is too much tension in the upper body through the cervical spine, and too tight of a grip. These contribute directly to tingling and numbness in the hands. The impingement is on the nerves as they pass from the spinal column down to the hands themselves. This is very often overlooked.
Relaxed upper body and light hands.
Relaxed upper body and light hands.
#21
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Another "jumpin' Jesus on a pogo stick" thread...gloves are not a solution
You have a bar or fit problem, like many here I can't ride flat bars no matter whether I have ergon's or not the sweep just isn't right. If you really want to keep flat bars look for bars that have more sweep they look a whole lot of dumb but they work. If your saddle isn't level you need to figure out why whether you ride leather (which every oldster thinks is the cure for everything) the saddle needs to support your weight tilt in any direction puts pressure on your taint or hands (and no you shouldn't need padded anything to ride).
You have a bar or fit problem, like many here I can't ride flat bars no matter whether I have ergon's or not the sweep just isn't right. If you really want to keep flat bars look for bars that have more sweep they look a whole lot of dumb but they work. If your saddle isn't level you need to figure out why whether you ride leather (which every oldster thinks is the cure for everything) the saddle needs to support your weight tilt in any direction puts pressure on your taint or hands (and no you shouldn't need padded anything to ride).
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Back in 2012 I got my left hand crushed in a 1920s service elevator. No bones were broken, but there's nerve damage.
Since I've been using drop bars, I have a gel pad under the bar tape and then the Planet Bike Taurus gloves. Beyond that- changing hand positions and distributing weight are the most important. I generally ride with my palm on the corners- then move around to the ramps, tops and hoods.
If you're using flat bars, I'd think about bar ends and/or those 'Ergon' paddles. That would allow you to spread the weight across your palm instead of being concentrated in that one "bar." Additionally, the bar end allows for several different types of grip.
something like this:
And the Planet Bike gloves I've been using (BTW- the "Kevlar" thing is not solid or particularly rigid- my guess it's there for scuff protection if you fall):
Since I've been using drop bars, I have a gel pad under the bar tape and then the Planet Bike Taurus gloves. Beyond that- changing hand positions and distributing weight are the most important. I generally ride with my palm on the corners- then move around to the ramps, tops and hoods.
If you're using flat bars, I'd think about bar ends and/or those 'Ergon' paddles. That would allow you to spread the weight across your palm instead of being concentrated in that one "bar." Additionally, the bar end allows for several different types of grip.
something like this:
And the Planet Bike gloves I've been using (BTW- the "Kevlar" thing is not solid or particularly rigid- my guess it's there for scuff protection if you fall):
#23
Senior Member
Ride a unicycle. Guaranteed no hand problems.
In a similar vein, pull on the handlebars. Parking weight on the ‘bar will always cause problems. If you must rest weight on hands change hand positions frequently. Mix up those position changes with episodes of pulling on the bars. Parking weight compresses joints and nerves. Pulling on the bars opens up space in the joints.
In a similar vein, pull on the handlebars. Parking weight on the ‘bar will always cause problems. If you must rest weight on hands change hand positions frequently. Mix up those position changes with episodes of pulling on the bars. Parking weight compresses joints and nerves. Pulling on the bars opens up space in the joints.
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See your doc. I had a numbness that started along little finger and progressed to radiating up to elbow. Then I started losing strength and had arm weakness. A lot of tests revealed a pinched cervical nerve. PT and changes like not tiding with a backpack let me recover 75% in about 6 weeks and almost back to 100% within a year. The PT saved me. My neurologist was pushing for a spinal fusion surgery.
Everyone’s case is unique and yours might be completely different.
Everyone’s case is unique and yours might be completely different.
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#25
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^ I agree wholeheartedly with these last two.