TRP HY/RD with new Shimano cable pull
05-02-18, 01:29 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
TRP HY/RD with new Shimano cable pull
Hi,
Shimano has introduced some time ago a "new" cable pull on their road levers (105-5700 as far as I'm concerned), between canti and linear.
Do TRP's HY/RD work with these levers/new cable pulls?
I heard their bite point was too far, how does it go with these new shifters (or is the problem registered using these shifters already)?
What about cheating by making the pads closer to the disc like on MTB (halfway pull with wheels removed)?
Thanks,
Nicolas
Shimano has introduced some time ago a "new" cable pull on their road levers (105-5700 as far as I'm concerned), between canti and linear.
Do TRP's HY/RD work with these levers/new cable pulls?
I heard their bite point was too far, how does it go with these new shifters (or is the problem registered using these shifters already)?
What about cheating by making the pads closer to the disc like on MTB (halfway pull with wheels removed)?
Thanks,
Nicolas
05-02-18, 02:36 PM
#2
Banned
You get to choose the bite point when you set them up. , like any cable disc brake,
these just use the cable pull to actuate the internal master cylinder, that in turn forces oil
into the slave cylinders on either side of the disc..
RTFM?
these just use the cable pull to actuate the internal master cylinder, that in turn forces oil
into the slave cylinders on either side of the disc..
RTFM?
05-02-18, 02:38 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,764
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1975 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times
in
173 Posts
TRP HY/RD was designed with the "new" cable pull in mind, it doesn't work so well with older shifters or campy. You cannot cheat the pads closer much because the amount of travel on a road hydro caliper is so small. If you cheat the system by turning the cable tension knob past the point of removing slack and don't allow the piston to fully retract you lose the auto pad advancement function of a hydraulic system.
05-02-18, 03:05 PM
#5
Banned
go over and help the guy then..
Trek's 720 came with HyRD & Shimano brifters, stock, so it must work together.
FWIW
Paul's Clamper disc you just change/order, the arm the cable pulls upon ..
comes in 3 lengths , of increasing lever MA , so shorter cable pull
Linear /V, Cantilever/ Road, and shortest cable pull , Campag Ergo..
....
Trek's 720 came with HyRD & Shimano brifters, stock, so it must work together.
FWIW
Paul's Clamper disc you just change/order, the arm the cable pulls upon ..
comes in 3 lengths , of increasing lever MA , so shorter cable pull
Linear /V, Cantilever/ Road, and shortest cable pull , Campag Ergo..
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-02-18 at 03:12 PM.
05-03-18, 01:12 PM
#8
old fart
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: PA-US
Posts: 379
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 119 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Refrain from offerring misleading and wrong opinions unless you have personally tried it, and discovered it did not work.
TRP Hy/Rd actually works very well with Campy.
~3500 miles with such front brake, with Campy Centaur 10-speed levers (the Ultrashift variety, circa '2009), awesome modulation.
05-03-18, 01:17 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,764
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1975 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times
in
173 Posts
Incorrect.
Refrain from offerring misleading and wrong opinions unless you have personally tried it, and discovered it did not work.
TRP Hy/Rd actually works very well with Campy.
~3500 miles with such front brake, with Campy Centaur 10-speed levers (the Ultrashift variety, circa '2009), awesome modulation.
Refrain from offerring misleading and wrong opinions unless you have personally tried it, and discovered it did not work.
TRP Hy/Rd actually works very well with Campy.
~3500 miles with such front brake, with Campy Centaur 10-speed levers (the Ultrashift variety, circa '2009), awesome modulation.
Technical FAQ: Road discs with Campy, high-speed shimmy, and more | VeloNews.com
05-03-18, 02:36 PM
#10
Banned
confirming what I said <C> has least cable pull. from the lever
shimano the market dominant should work on that caliper, as is..
no hacksawing needed....
shimano the market dominant should work on that caliper, as is..
no hacksawing needed....
05-07-18, 08:39 AM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you for your infos.
I hate road levers with a far away bite point.
Though I have no problem bringing a file to it (I actually am a pro bike mech, but have no experience with these TRP components) it seems that the result even then is "meh" at best.
I guess I would then be better served by the Spyre.
Any experience of the Spyre vs the HyRd? I tend to think that IME road disc brakes (mechanical) don't really offer improved braking over quality rim brakes. But if your frame takes only discs well you have to deal with it. How does the Spyre compare with say 105 side pull brakes on a Mavic Aksium wheel? Weaker breaking?
Thanks,
Nicolas
I hate road levers with a far away bite point.
Though I have no problem bringing a file to it (I actually am a pro bike mech, but have no experience with these TRP components) it seems that the result even then is "meh" at best.
I guess I would then be better served by the Spyre.
Any experience of the Spyre vs the HyRd? I tend to think that IME road disc brakes (mechanical) don't really offer improved braking over quality rim brakes. But if your frame takes only discs well you have to deal with it. How does the Spyre compare with say 105 side pull brakes on a Mavic Aksium wheel? Weaker breaking?
Thanks,
Nicolas
Last edited by NeoY2k; 05-07-18 at 08:48 AM.
05-07-18, 11:40 AM
#12
Senior Member
I had pretty good luck setting up a HY/RD to work with some Sora 3500 levers (which supposedly use the newer cable pull, though not the absolute newest). Then that bike got dismantled and repurposed so the HY/RD went into the parts bin for a while. Lately I tried to set them up with some Ultegra R8050 Di2 levers (can’t get much newer than that), and they were terrible. I could pretty much pull all the way to the bars without fully locking the wheel. I could get them to stop pretty well on level ground, but just based on the lever pull, I could tell it wasn’t going to cut it on, say, a 12% downhill. I didn’t spend too much time messing with them, so I’m not sure what changed. Maybe they need to be bled again or something. But my opinion on these calipers has shifted towards a heavily qualified “They’re great if you can get them to work for you, but that’s a big IF”. TRP seriously needs to rethink this design, with some way to adjust cable pull.
My experience with the Spyres is that they also have way too much cable pull, so you either need to use cable tension to preload the actuator arm so that it’s pulled in at least 1mm from its default open position, or use the adjusting screws to wind the pads in a little (maybe mine were just poorly adjusted from the factory). After that they work pretty well, though. At least you *can* adjust them, unlike the HY/RD’s.
My experience with the Spyres is that they also have way too much cable pull, so you either need to use cable tension to preload the actuator arm so that it’s pulled in at least 1mm from its default open position, or use the adjusting screws to wind the pads in a little (maybe mine were just poorly adjusted from the factory). After that they work pretty well, though. At least you *can* adjust them, unlike the HY/RD’s.
05-07-18, 11:47 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,764
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1975 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times
in
173 Posts
Thank you for your infos.
I hate road levers with a far away bite point.
Though I have no problem bringing a file to it (I actually am a pro bike mech, but have no experience with these TRP components) it seems that the result even then is "meh" at best.
I guess I would then be better served by the Spyre.
Any experience of the Spyre vs the HyRd? I tend to think that IME road disc brakes (mechanical) don't really offer improved braking over quality rim brakes. But if your frame takes only discs well you have to deal with it. How does the Spyre compare with say 105 side pull brakes on a Mavic Aksium wheel? Weaker breaking?
Thanks,
Nicolas
I hate road levers with a far away bite point.
Though I have no problem bringing a file to it (I actually am a pro bike mech, but have no experience with these TRP components) it seems that the result even then is "meh" at best.
I guess I would then be better served by the Spyre.
Any experience of the Spyre vs the HyRd? I tend to think that IME road disc brakes (mechanical) don't really offer improved braking over quality rim brakes. But if your frame takes only discs well you have to deal with it. How does the Spyre compare with say 105 side pull brakes on a Mavic Aksium wheel? Weaker breaking?
Thanks,
Nicolas
Last edited by redlude97; 05-07-18 at 11:48 AM. Reason: mention tags seem to not be working, joejack951
05-07-18, 01:26 PM
#14
Senior Member
Incorrect.
Refrain from offerring misleading and wrong opinions unless you have personally tried it, and discovered it did not work.
TRP Hy/Rd actually works very well with Campy.
~3500 miles with such front brake, with Campy Centaur 10-speed levers (the Ultrashift variety, circa '2009), awesome modulation.
Refrain from offerring misleading and wrong opinions unless you have personally tried it, and discovered it did not work.
TRP Hy/Rd actually works very well with Campy.
~3500 miles with such front brake, with Campy Centaur 10-speed levers (the Ultrashift variety, circa '2009), awesome modulation.
05-08-18, 06:30 AM
#16
Senior Member
Which handlebars are you using? With a classic curve bar (Ritchey WCS Carbon Streem II), my Chorus 11 levers were bottoming out before I could get to max braking using HY/RD calipers with stock arms. Perhaps with an ergo bar I could have made it sorta work but the lever pull would have been extremely long, likely bottoming the brake levers on the brake hood.
05-08-18, 10:12 AM
#17
old fart
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: PA-US
Posts: 379
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 119 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Which handlebars are you using? With a classic curve bar (Ritchey WCS Carbon Streem II), my Chorus 11 levers were bottoming out before I could get to max braking using HY/RD calipers with stock arms. Perhaps with an ergo bar I could have made it sorta work but the lever pull would have been extremely long, likely bottoming the brake levers on the brake hood.
I like it for the quite long reach, as it gives my hands zillions positions, especially on the ramps.
No love for ergo bars here, don't fit my riding style well.
I don't experience any bottoming-up, perhaps you could look into slightly shimming the bottom end of your lever mounts where they contact the bar - to raise the bottoms up.
The same levers were previously used on a Nitto Noodle bar (also a pretty classic curve), operating Avid BB7s Road disc brake. No lever range issues there either.
05-08-18, 11:11 AM
#18
Senior Member
I have the Campy levers on a Velo-Orange Grand Cru Course handlebar, a very classic curve type.
I like it for the quite long reach, as it gives my hands zillions positions, especially on the ramps.
No love for ergo bars here, don't fit my riding style well.
I don't experience any bottoming-up, perhaps you could look into slightly shimming the bottom end of your lever mounts where they contact the bar - to raise the bottoms up.
The same levers were previously used on a Nitto Noodle bar (also a pretty classic curve), operating Avid BB7s Road disc brake. No lever range issues there either.
I like it for the quite long reach, as it gives my hands zillions positions, especially on the ramps.
No love for ergo bars here, don't fit my riding style well.
I don't experience any bottoming-up, perhaps you could look into slightly shimming the bottom end of your lever mounts where they contact the bar - to raise the bottoms up.
The same levers were previously used on a Nitto Noodle bar (also a pretty classic curve), operating Avid BB7s Road disc brake. No lever range issues there either.
05-08-18, 03:30 PM
#19
old fart
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: PA-US
Posts: 379
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 119 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
And I did not fail to mention it on purpose - I simply assumed that everyone installing Hy/Rd with Campy levers would follow the youtube video linked in post #9 .
I'm pretty sensitive to lever pull, as I don't drag brakes on principle, and instead deploy short bursts of hard braking, and besides, the disc brake is my front one, which I use predominantly (rears on my road/gravel bikes are all rim brakes since they are very seldom applied).
The cable routing on the Hy/Rd as intended by TRP was ruled out immediately upon installation, as it was instantly obvious to me that it would never ensure a proper brake operation with the Campy levers.
I've been wrenching on bikes since 1968, so please forgive me if sometimes I automatically assume that a bike wrench (or owner) would do things in a certain way...
05-08-18, 03:39 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,764
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1975 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times
in
173 Posts
Incorrect.
Refrain from offerring misleading and wrong opinions unless you have personally tried it, and discovered it did not work.
TRP Hy/Rd actually works very well with Campy.
~3500 miles with such front brake, with Campy Centaur 10-speed levers (the Ultrashift variety, circa '2009), awesome modulation.
Refrain from offerring misleading and wrong opinions unless you have personally tried it, and discovered it did not work.
TRP Hy/Rd actually works very well with Campy.
~3500 miles with such front brake, with Campy Centaur 10-speed levers (the Ultrashift variety, circa '2009), awesome modulation.
C. is the correct answer!
And I did not fail to mention it on purpose - I simply assumed that everyone installing Hy/Rd with Campy levers would follow the youtube video linked in post #9 .
I'm pretty sensitive to lever pull, as I don't drag brakes on principle, and instead deploy short bursts of hard braking, and besides, the disc brake is my front one, which I use predominantly (rears on my road/gravel bikes are all rim brakes since they are very seldom applied).
The cable routing on the Hy/Rd as intended by TRP was ruled out immediately upon installation, as it was instantly obvious to me that it would never ensure a proper brake operation with the Campy levers.
I've been wrenching on bikes since 1968, so please forgive me if sometimes I automatically assume that a bike wrench (or owner) would do things in a certain way...
And I did not fail to mention it on purpose - I simply assumed that everyone installing Hy/Rd with Campy levers would follow the youtube video linked in post #9 .
I'm pretty sensitive to lever pull, as I don't drag brakes on principle, and instead deploy short bursts of hard braking, and besides, the disc brake is my front one, which I use predominantly (rears on my road/gravel bikes are all rim brakes since they are very seldom applied).
The cable routing on the Hy/Rd as intended by TRP was ruled out immediately upon installation, as it was instantly obvious to me that it would never ensure a proper brake operation with the Campy levers.
I've been wrenching on bikes since 1968, so please forgive me if sometimes I automatically assume that a bike wrench (or owner) would do things in a certain way...
05-08-18, 03:46 PM
#21
Banned
Shimano being the dominant company, in the Bike Biz, I could not imagine not thinking of them when making such a component.
05-09-18, 07:29 AM
#22
Senior Member
C. is the correct answer!
And I did not fail to mention it on purpose - I simply assumed that everyone installing Hy/Rd with Campy levers would follow the youtube video linked in post #9 .
I'm pretty sensitive to lever pull, as I don't drag brakes on principle, and instead deploy short bursts of hard braking, and besides, the disc brake is my front one, which I use predominantly (rears on my road/gravel bikes are all rim brakes since they are very seldom applied).
The cable routing on the Hy/Rd as intended by TRP was ruled out immediately upon installation, as it was instantly obvious to me that it would never ensure a proper brake operation with the Campy levers.
I've been wrenching on bikes since 1968, so please forgive me if sometimes I automatically assume that a bike wrench (or owner) would do things in a certain way...
And I did not fail to mention it on purpose - I simply assumed that everyone installing Hy/Rd with Campy levers would follow the youtube video linked in post #9 .
I'm pretty sensitive to lever pull, as I don't drag brakes on principle, and instead deploy short bursts of hard braking, and besides, the disc brake is my front one, which I use predominantly (rears on my road/gravel bikes are all rim brakes since they are very seldom applied).
The cable routing on the Hy/Rd as intended by TRP was ruled out immediately upon installation, as it was instantly obvious to me that it would never ensure a proper brake operation with the Campy levers.
I've been wrenching on bikes since 1968, so please forgive me if sometimes I automatically assume that a bike wrench (or owner) would do things in a certain way...
I'm not sure what your agenda is but I'll admit that I'm mildly annoyed that even when presented with the youtube video showing the hack fix that you failed to mention that in your posts. To make matters worse, you accused redlude97 of misleading people. What's your deal?
05-09-18, 07:31 AM
#23
Senior Member
You are missing the point of this discussion, fietsbob. No one is faulting TRP for targeting the latest Shimano levers with the HY/RD (and Spyre).
05-09-18, 08:30 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,764
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1975 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times
in
173 Posts
Its not even just the latest, dura ace 7900 has been out since 2008/9 with the super SLR cable pull and HYRD came out in 2012. Sucks they never made two versions for different road cable pull but neither did Avid or Hayes etc.
05-09-18, 09:07 AM
#25
Senior Member
