ryanl092

I picked it up today with a nice deal. Below are the pictures I took after arriving home. It’s a bit heavy ~11-12kg


Head tube lug looks like a motobecane, but the seattube lug seemed not likely.

oneclick 

If Moto, the inner face of the rear drive-side dropout will have a magic number, does it, what is it?

ryanl092

There is serial number in non drive side shows J7728, none in drive side.



It also has a campy nuovo record crank

juvela

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Motobecane products of this calibre & era tended to employ Vagner flat top fork crowns.


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Sedgemop 

Possibly a Schwinn Paramount?

Mr. 66

Looks like Schwinn except for the rattle can

ryanl092

It did have a few schwinn parts.

juvela

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yes indeed

seat stay cap and serial are consisitent with Paramount

too bad we do not have an image of the chain stay stop - that could really clinch it...


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pastorbobnlnh 

I'm 100% certain it is a 1977 Schwinn Paramount P15, made in the month of September.

Great score despite the terrible paint. The lugs on the head tub and fork crown should be chrome.

ryanl092

I am surprised that it turned out to be a Paramount. The seller said it's about 1976 and rally race bike or a Motobecane. I saw it's crankset looks like a Campy 3x that I was thinking about to find one, so I pull the trigger.
Well, now I will need to thinking about how to deal with the paint. It will be the oldest bike I ever owned.

juvela

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lug note -

you mentioned in your initial post that you thought it might be a Motobecane

the lugs on the frame are the frequently mentioned scrolly NERVEX Professional (Dubois)

Motobecane employed a very similar pattern, also produced by NERVEX

here is a closeup of it:




both the blue and the yellow frame in these images are the Grand Record model of 1973

another manufacturer who employed this lug pattern was Jeunet


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SwimmerMike 

Great score! Looking forward to seeing it on the next peninsula ride.

ryanl092

It turned out to have most of parts original except paint, saddle, rear wheel/hub,tires bar tape. I really just want to buy that campy triple cranks. Really!!

pastorbobnlnh 

I'm certain that if all you want is the crankset, it should be easy to find willing C&Vers who are ready to adopt whatever bits of this Paramount you don't want to nurture back to good health and longevity.

SwimmerMike 

I can relate, I bought a bike for the Campy Record triple crank before. In fact, my yellow paramount was purchased for the triple and the Rally RD. I ended up decided to not pull them to put on my '69 Paramount and keep the yellow one whole.

If you're pulling the crank for another bike, be sure to pull the bottom bracket also.

Mike

Mr. 66

A little elbow grease and solvent may clean off the rattle can paint off the chrome and such.

unworthy1

^yes, start with "mild" stuff like mineral spirits which should not affect cured original paint, then if you need and if you dare move up the refining tower to more risky solvents like Acetone or the blended stuff like "goof-off" or "goo-gone", but go slow and try them on a "safe" area first.
-wear gloves.
-use a good respirator and/or work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area...I always prefer "under a spreading Chestnut tree", myself!

SwimmerMike 

If the chrome is in good shape I have had success removing the bulk of the paint with a utility knife blade. Again, try it in an inconspicuous spot first.

ryanl092

It’s time consuming to remove those pain.


40% of head tube done.

SwimmerMike 

That’s looking so much better!

ryanl092

I think I will do a minimum clean up/lube and ride a bit before disassemble all the parts. The reason is it's not my size.

I used to ride CTT 49-52cm, My 52cm bike has seat post 2 inch out of the top tube. This one has only little space there. It's a ~22 in (55+cm) bike.

The paramount looks so nice to keep it, may be I will wait for a smaller size frame and swap out all parts. It's wheels are quite heavy anyway.

The non original rear wheel plus freewheel seemed to be ~2kg+. No wonder the total bike is about 12kg (26.4lbs)

If I would keep it longer, I will probably change it to have down tube shifter (I'm not familiar with bar end one)and replace brake lever to campy one.

BTW. I have no idea if the tires are clincher tires or not.

pastorbobnlnh 

Is the underlying paint (as seen where the head badge should be, and where the derailleurs cable stop has slipped and the band below) white or silver? I wonder if that is the original paint.

ryanl092

Yes.the original paint is silver. The condition seemed not good after my removing some underneath the water bottle cage. I will stop removing the paint for now.


when I browsed FB market place yesterday, I found there were 2 Ads for this bike. The pre-pre seller post it as free, local pickup from a lady. She also claimed “This is an old bike with some cool old Schwin and Campy parts. Must take the whole thing. ”. No wonder the guy sold this bike to me has no knowledge of campagnolo and spelled it as campagnola. It remind me to tell my wife to at least donate my good old stuff to charity, not throwing out for free when ‘it’ happened.

ryanl092

In the middle of tear down my bike I got stuck on bar end shifter and crank cover.


In a market place about a 7400 bar end manu I saw that it need counter clockwise to tighten it. Is it true applying to all shimano bar end? I think the schwinn one is shimano. If so, I was totally wrong.



And then how about this. I doubt if I can remove it by a 5mm wrench. Which direction to go?? Help me. The worst case is to drill 2 holes and use BB tools that has 2 pins to loosen it.

SwimmerMike 

I haven't taken out Shimano bar end shifters except for 9/10/11 speed on my tri-bike(s) so I'm no help here. Except I would expect them to be the standard CCW to loosen. For the crank bolt cover, they are standard threaded so CCW to loosen. I've encountered some bad/neglected bikes and never had an issue removing the Campy crank cover with an Allen wrench. If it is stripped, I would try penetrating solvent (PB blaster is my choice) and shove a flat end screw driver in to try to somewhat save the cap.