radial1999

After trying to get a better idea of exactly what size bike to get, I visited this bike fit website:

https://www.sierratradingpost.com/lp2...fit-guide.html

I measured my inseam 29.4 inches, torso length 28.75 inches, and arm length 20.5 inches. The bike I'm looking at, in all 3 sizes I'm considering (49, 52, 54cm) has zero standover clearance for me. And in terms of the fit guide I used at the above website, the "total reach" based on my dimensions is 28.6 inches. All 3 sizes of this bike are way too short in that type of fit (by 3-5 inches).

Can anyone help me figure out what kinds of adjustments I'll need to make depending on which size I get? I'm 5'10" but I have short legs for my height. The first bike I got was a 54cm, and the standover height was taller than claimed by the website (its about 31) and it feels too tall for me, plus the bars feel too far away (they feel far too low).

If I have to modify whatever bike I get, is it more important to have the standover clearance as close to ideal as possible (even with a 49cm bike there will be little or no clearance), or the reach of the bars? I figure I can try different stems, but none will move the bars a full 3" or 4" right? Any advice? Are there high-end stems out there that have a ton of rise but still have long reach?

Campag4life

First...you NEED a compact geometry. They are taylor made for guys with short legs relative to torso length.
Second you need geometry that satisfies both standover and a long enough reach or you won't be happy with the bike.
Don't bandaid it with a long high rise stem. You will need a long stem however. Don't go comfort geometry because they have a relatively short top tube and tall head tube...opposite of what you want.
You will probably end up a stem length of about 130mm. Keep in mind another way to achieve more reach is with more drop. A small plays into your hands there as you will get a shorter head tube. The issue will be to get a long enough top tube.

So that is your assignment. Survey all the different compact frames out there...pull up the geometry from all of them. You will probably need need a compact geometry in the range of 52-54cm c-t-t which will be tight your crotch but should be nothing more.
Some will come here and say standover doesn't matter. It does. Finding a frame to fit those outside normal proportion...I have long legs for example relative to torso length...is a puzzle but the vast majority will do fine on a production frame...you just need to choose the right one.

radial1999

Thank you for the advice. I was pretty much set on the Motobecane Fantom Cross Team (I decided I don't want a racing road bike, and would prefer the canti brakes for wider tires, and the added strength and extra brake levers of a cyclocross bike). But I'm nervous after comparing my measurements and my bad fit on my current bike, to the measurements posted by Motobecane on their website. It seems like there will be no good fit for me.

There probably aren't many compact geometry cyclocross bikes out there but I'll look around. Thank you for replying. It would be nice if the bike with everything the rider wants would also have a good fit for that person. :/

cpach

Maybe you can find a bike that's not strictly cyclocross? The Salsa Vaya might work--compact geometry, disc brakes, wide tires. Or maybe some kind of 29'er frame built up as a road bike?

Looigi

I suggest trying the fit calculators at either Wrench Science or Competitive Cyclist websites. They lead you through properly taking about a dozen measurements and that you input and it spits out bike geometry recommendations.

radial1999

One thing that is keeping me from looking at touring bikes is how heavy they are. I like the idea of a sturdy bike but not something that weighs 25 lbs or more. I'd prefer to not be stuck with disc brakes either personally.

mrvile

I have the same issue, but less extreme than yours (5'9" w/ 30" inseam). When you're fitting your bike, avoid the KOPS thing, I can already tell you that you'll need your saddle pushed far back and your knees will consequently be behind the pedal spindle. It seems counter-intuitive but make sure you keep your saddle back. You'll also probably need a pretty long stem.

I've found that I need smaller frame sizes, set up with longer stems and further setback seatposts to get the ideal fit. I ride a 51, 120mm stem, about 40mm of total saddle setback.

kenji666

Go with a smaller frame to fit your leg length. You can always get a longer stem to stretch out the top tube.

Campag4life

OP...what is the intent for the use of the bike? What kind of handlebar are you looking at?...drop or flat bar?
Reason I ask is a Ti hardtail mtb...rigid if you prefer with carbon fork can be built pretty light.
If the intent is for off road or even dirt road riding a 29er beats a cross bike in every category except nth degree speed but not enough to matter if you are getting beat up along the way. I love my Ti 29er and my carbon road bike...two different tools for different ocassions. A cross bike is caught in between...great to race on the dirt but if you want some comfort, consider a 29er which can be built light if you want to pay.

faterikcartman

When measuring my inseam and checking for standover fit the advice I found helpful was to jam a thin stiff book up between my legs and against a wall and measure my inseam up to my pubic bone -- not up to the jiggly bits or pant leg length, etc. Obviously disregard if you've got that covered.

caloso

Me too. My ideal bike is probably 53 cm ST/55 cm TT. It seems I'm better off going smaller frame, longer stem than the other way around.

Drew Eckhardt 

Buy a different bike.

No.

radial1999

Here's what I'm looking for in a bike (and I know I won't find all of these but most cyclocross bikes have a lot of these features):
Sturdy enough to handle the rough roads where I live but primarily I'll be riding on the road
Can attach a rear rack with bolts on the seatstays
Not a 25lb tank touring bike
I'd prefer the extra levers on the top of the bars
I'd prefer a triple but most high-end bikes don't seem to have one, so I can live without it
I don't want a bike with the shifters on the end of the dropbars like many touring bikes have
I get occasional back pain, so the more aggressive style of racing road bikes is less appealing to me than the more relaxed geometry of cyclocross or touring bikes
I'd prefer canti brakes so I can run wider tires for comfort (I'm not looking to do any type of racing)

In my days wrenching at a bike shop I knew little about road bikes other than that I loved test-riding the carbon frames because of how smooth they were. But I can't attach a rack to one, and those bikes tend to have the more aggressive racing geometry. I did look long and hard at the Scwhinn Le Tour Super at bikesdirect (carbon frame/fork, full 105 for only $1,000) but the geometry and lack of seatstay rack mounts holds me back.

I will probably end up buying this https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ss_team_al.htm but I'm worried obviously about the fit.

radial1999

Thanks. I can tell you that on the bike I have, I originally had the saddle in the middle and once I pushed it all the way forward (towards the stem) to bring my knees in the proper position over the pedal spindles, a lot of the pain in my ass and elbows went away. But I still felt too hunched over and my arms were far too extended when on the hoods.
You find that when aiming to get the right fit with leg extension rather than torso extension, it's that much more comfortable than the reverse? Do you feel much pain like too much weight is on the seat/not enough on the pedals/bars when you push the seat back more?

55/Rad

Look into Lemond geometry. Specifically, the Poprad if you want a cyclocross bike. Of course, they aren't making new ones at the moment but there are plenty of good used ones around.

jrobe

If you are have difficult body proportions for a bike fit, the best thing to do is to buy a bike off the internet with no expert help. If you don't know how to properly fit the bike, just try to fudge it as best you can to make it work. Then ask a bunch of strangers on the internet for advise. They likely have a world of experience themselves.

Whatever you do, don't get professionally fit on the bike by someone that does this for a living. This is a sure way ruin a long term cycling experience for the next few years.

radial1999

You're right. Everyone new to cycling should spend $100 to have someone else measure them. That makes much more sense than narrowing down what you want in a bike, then choosing the bike with the best combination of geometry and features and deciding how to make it fit better. Every recreational rider should spend $100 before buying a bike to get a set of measurements.

Obviously there are plenty of bikes out there with geometry for people with short legs for their height, or long legs for their height, and so all I need to do is pay someone at a shop to tell me what bike that is so I can buy it. Thank you for your wisdom.

billydonn

^^^^ Yes ^^^^^

radial1999

I LOVED their bikes back in my shop days. There's a Poprad on ebay now but I'd need to alter too many things to get the setup I want. I wish there were more of those bikes around.

tFUnK

I think Giant makes a cyclocross bike with compact geometry https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/....2/3889/36630/

radial1999

I probably would have taken it for a test ride by now if I could put a rack on that bike on the seatstays.

I think I'm going to take a chance on the Motobecane and if I really can't get it to fit right, look into a custom frame. There is no bike out there that will fit someone with such short legs and long torso, so the question is do I go for a 50cm frame at 5'10" or 52cm. For this I will probably go test ride some bikes when the weather permits, and try to figure out which size seems more likely to be made into a good-fitting bike.
Shopping for a bike was hard enough before I got my measurements and realized no bike out there is made for someone built like me.

radial1999

Do you use your inseam measurement (using the book between the legs) barefoot or wearing your clipless shoes? This changes the measurement for me by over 1.5".

meanwhile

The Cotic Roadrat springs to mind. It will take discs or rim brakes. Google it. You'd order the frame from the UK then add components. Easier to get hold of, the Giant TCX: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/....0/4879/39033/

mrvile

Measure barefoot.

radial1999

I would think that the TCX would have a shorter standover height if it is compact geometry but the small (49cm) has standover height almost exactly the height of the 54cm road bike I have now that is too big.