Clyde ready for an upgrade but need some serious insight. Help is most appreciated.
02-24-15, 12:48 PM
#26
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the key here is "it feels like"... a gps accounting of speed would not agree with our feeling...
you said I agreed with you that the cf bike is faster... ok, so if the op goes with a super light (for the money) cf bike, his story would change to say that the guy who made the road noise passing him would now make 3 and a quarter seconds of noise going by instead of 3 seconds of noise...guess $1600 to make you maybe that much faster is a good deal, right? The one thing that will make him noticeably faster is too lose the weight and improve his physical condition...as to the bike the biggest improvement to speed will be going from MTB tires to road tires and improving body position (less wind resistance) on the road bike, frame material is totally irrelevant in that regard, at least until he gets to ideal riding weight and at a competitive speed, then the minor difference might be important...a lot of crit racers prefer aluminum frames over cf frame there for durability too....on a hill climb weight is a factor... but in truth at the speed recreational riders and exercise riders go... frame material is their least concerning factor...
02-24-15, 12:55 PM
#27
Senior Member
Here's my advice to the OP:
Get yourself a sturdy cross bike. aluminum or steel, doesn't really matter but if you get aluminum get one with carbon or steel forks. The benefits of having a cross bike will be a bike that has a road look, it'll likely have disc brakes (I don't care for them, but it sounds like you'd like them), room for wider tires when you find out that 355lbs on 700x23s isn't that comfortable, and the added versatility of a bike that can do light off-roading and gravel grinding. Also cross bikes tend to put the rider in a more upright stance, which will be more comfortable for the heavier rider. You can put slicks on a cross bike and ride the crap out of it treating it like a road bike, I rode a full century and many metric centuries last year on a cross bike no problem.
Get yourself a sturdy cross bike. aluminum or steel, doesn't really matter but if you get aluminum get one with carbon or steel forks. The benefits of having a cross bike will be a bike that has a road look, it'll likely have disc brakes (I don't care for them, but it sounds like you'd like them), room for wider tires when you find out that 355lbs on 700x23s isn't that comfortable, and the added versatility of a bike that can do light off-roading and gravel grinding. Also cross bikes tend to put the rider in a more upright stance, which will be more comfortable for the heavier rider. You can put slicks on a cross bike and ride the crap out of it treating it like a road bike, I rode a full century and many metric centuries last year on a cross bike no problem.
Last edited by dr_lha; 02-24-15 at 12:59 PM.
02-24-15, 12:58 PM
#28
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so if the op goes with a super light (for the money) cf bike, his story would change to say that the guy who made the road noise passing him would now make 3 and a quarter seconds of noise going by instead of 3 seconds of noise...guess $1600 to make you maybe that much faster is a good deal,
Last edited by Jarrett2; 02-24-15 at 01:05 PM.
02-24-15, 12:59 PM
#29
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that is solid advice, my foul weather road bike is a cross bike with schwabe (sp?) 700x35's on it... comfortable and predictable and not much (if any) slower than my road bikes.
02-24-15, 01:07 PM
#30
aka Phil Jungels
Here's my advice to the OP:
Get yourself a sturdy cross bike. aluminum or steel, doesn't really matter but if you get aluminum get one with carbon or steel forks. The benefits of having a cross bike will be a bike that has a road look, it'll likely have disc brakes (I don't care for them, but it sounds like you'd like them), room for wider tires when you find out that 355lbs on 700x23s isn't that comfortable, and the added versatility of a bike that can do light off-roading and gravel grinding. Also cross bikes tend to put the rider in a more upright stance, which will be more comfortable for the heavier rider. You can put slicks on a cross bike and ride the crap out of it treating it like a road bike, I rode a full century and many metric centuries last year on a cross bike no problem.
Get yourself a sturdy cross bike. aluminum or steel, doesn't really matter but if you get aluminum get one with carbon or steel forks. The benefits of having a cross bike will be a bike that has a road look, it'll likely have disc brakes (I don't care for them, but it sounds like you'd like them), room for wider tires when you find out that 355lbs on 700x23s isn't that comfortable, and the added versatility of a bike that can do light off-roading and gravel grinding. Also cross bikes tend to put the rider in a more upright stance, which will be more comfortable for the heavier rider. You can put slicks on a cross bike and ride the crap out of it treating it like a road bike, I rode a full century and many metric centuries last year on a cross bike no problem.
02-24-15, 01:08 PM
#31
aka Phil Jungels
Here's my advice to the OP:
Get yourself a sturdy cross bike. aluminum or steel, doesn't really matter but if you get aluminum get one with carbon or steel forks. The benefits of having a cross bike will be a bike that has a road look, it'll likely have disc brakes (I don't care for them, but it sounds like you'd like them), room for wider tires when you find out that 355lbs on 700x23s isn't that comfortable, and the added versatility of a bike that can do light off-roading and gravel grinding. Also cross bikes tend to put the rider in a more upright stance, which will be more comfortable for the heavier rider. You can put slicks on a cross bike and ride the crap out of it treating it like a road bike, I rode a full century and many metric centuries last year on a cross bike no problem.
Get yourself a sturdy cross bike. aluminum or steel, doesn't really matter but if you get aluminum get one with carbon or steel forks. The benefits of having a cross bike will be a bike that has a road look, it'll likely have disc brakes (I don't care for them, but it sounds like you'd like them), room for wider tires when you find out that 355lbs on 700x23s isn't that comfortable, and the added versatility of a bike that can do light off-roading and gravel grinding. Also cross bikes tend to put the rider in a more upright stance, which will be more comfortable for the heavier rider. You can put slicks on a cross bike and ride the crap out of it treating it like a road bike, I rode a full century and many metric centuries last year on a cross bike no problem.
02-24-15, 01:10 PM
#32
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02-24-15, 01:16 PM
#35
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02-24-15, 03:03 PM
#36
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I really dont want another steel bike. I would prefer disc breaks but its not a must have. I do however want smaller tires than the 52mm width im currently ridding on. I see several bikes come with 25mm from the factory.
Thanks for the input everyone, its helping me see new options and ruleing out others.
Thanks for the input everyone, its helping me see new options and ruleing out others.
Last edited by MRT2; 02-24-15 at 03:06 PM.
02-24-15, 04:33 PM
#37
Senior Member
A bike is 10-15 kg.
So 5 kg swing there, at the end of the day not all that significant compared to total weight he's pushing...
On the other side of the equation, with miles he can DOUBLE his watts with miles, and training.
to OP
I ran 23's front and 25 rear kept getting pinch flats at 220... Oh, and like 4 rear wheels in like 5k...
Look up the recommended pressure at your weights for your desired widths. For me I think it recommends 'rock hard' for anything under 28's...
Alternatively, you could consider the new research that shows on real world tests the rolling resistance is more dependent upon the quality of the tire not it's width.
Width buys you reliability when you're heavy. The air volume allows the tire to take the hits.
Something like a Pasela Panaracer...
I run 38's, a marathon on the front, and a plus on the back as I don't like flats... Really don't like flats.
Next tire, though I'm going down to a marathon 30 for the front, switch the 38 to the rear until it wears out. But I've dropped a bit...
But 23's or even 25's at 350...
Sure but get to know your friendly local mechanic to fix/replace your wheels. And maybe a cabbie...
Last edited by Null66; 02-24-15 at 04:38 PM.
02-24-15, 04:50 PM
#38
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I ran the stock 25/28's on my Secteur at 100 psi for well over 1,000 miles when I weighed 325 lb. They were fine.
I bought the bike on 9/11/13 and the first flat was 7/14/14 from running over a burr. That's 8 months of near daily riding with no flats. At this point the stock 32 spoke wheels have 1,764 miles on them and they are fine. I check their true periodically and all good.
I'd recommend getting some puncture resistant tires though. In the city my stock tires were find, but once I got into the country and started running over hard burrs, I had a couple of flats. Once switching to the Continental Gator Hardshell that stopped. The Specialized Armadillo Elite are good as well. Run them at the max psi.
Above all else, make sure your wheels have 32 spokes and make sure they have been gone over by a knowledgeable wheel guy and taken to max tension. That plus good puncture resistant tires and maxing the psi on each ride will kept me rolling well on my first road bike.
I bought the bike on 9/11/13 and the first flat was 7/14/14 from running over a burr. That's 8 months of near daily riding with no flats. At this point the stock 32 spoke wheels have 1,764 miles on them and they are fine. I check their true periodically and all good.
I'd recommend getting some puncture resistant tires though. In the city my stock tires were find, but once I got into the country and started running over hard burrs, I had a couple of flats. Once switching to the Continental Gator Hardshell that stopped. The Specialized Armadillo Elite are good as well. Run them at the max psi.
Above all else, make sure your wheels have 32 spokes and make sure they have been gone over by a knowledgeable wheel guy and taken to max tension. That plus good puncture resistant tires and maxing the psi on each ride will kept me rolling well on my first road bike.
02-24-15, 05:04 PM
#39
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The main thing is don't let people scare you off what you want to ride.
If you want a drop bar/road/cross type bike, then get one. You can make it work for you.
I do think the disc brakes are a good idea. Not so much for stopping power, but because it will allow you to run whatever size tire you feel comfortable on. Where rim brakes won't let you put more than a 25, maybe a 28 on a road bike. Personally, I don't see a reason to go any bigger than that if you stay on the road, but some people do like the feel of a bigger tire and having disc brakes gives you that option if you decide you want to try them.
If you want a drop bar/road/cross type bike, then get one. You can make it work for you.
I do think the disc brakes are a good idea. Not so much for stopping power, but because it will allow you to run whatever size tire you feel comfortable on. Where rim brakes won't let you put more than a 25, maybe a 28 on a road bike. Personally, I don't see a reason to go any bigger than that if you stay on the road, but some people do like the feel of a bigger tire and having disc brakes gives you that option if you decide you want to try them.
Last edited by Jarrett2; 02-24-15 at 05:10 PM.
02-24-15, 05:19 PM
#40
Senior Member
At 350lbs your limiting factor is going to be tires and wheels. When I was at 300, I didn't feel comfortable on 28s, even though there are plenty of tandem teams that use the same width. At your weight, 28s would be the bare minimum I would recommend. Preferably, a reasonably performance oriented 32 or 35mm tire on the back. Most road "racing" frames will not accommodate anything larger than 28mm. A few even struggle with those. To accommodate 32s or 35s you're more or less limited to cyclocross or touring orient frames, although there are a few "adventure" or "gravel grinding" bikes now that will satisfy that requirement.
With regard to wheels, 32 spokes minimum, preferably 36. Few stock bikes will have those. Probably only touring bikes.
Add me to the list of respondents that would favour aluminum or carbon over steel. Unless you're particularly abusive toward your equipment. Stell will be more forgiving of lateral knocks and rough treatment. But, it tends to be heavier and more flexible than the aforementioned materials. Specially under a clyde.
Something like a Salsa Warbird. Although that's a few hundred over your stated budget. Trek Crockett or Crossrip. etc.
With regard to wheels, 32 spokes minimum, preferably 36. Few stock bikes will have those. Probably only touring bikes.
Add me to the list of respondents that would favour aluminum or carbon over steel. Unless you're particularly abusive toward your equipment. Stell will be more forgiving of lateral knocks and rough treatment. But, it tends to be heavier and more flexible than the aforementioned materials. Specially under a clyde.
Something like a Salsa Warbird. Although that's a few hundred over your stated budget. Trek Crockett or Crossrip. etc.
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Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
02-24-15, 05:57 PM
#41
Senior Member
I ran the stock 25/28's on my Secteur at 100 psi for well over 1,000 miles when I weighed 325 lb. They were fine.
I bought the bike on 9/11/13 and the first flat was 7/14/14 from running over a burr. That's 8 months of near daily riding with no flats. At this point the stock 32 spoke wheels have 1,764 miles on them and they are fine. I check their true periodically and all good.
I'd recommend getting some puncture resistant tires though. In the city my stock tires were find, but once I got into the country and started running over hard burrs, I had a couple of flats. Once switching to the Continental Gator Hardshell that stopped. The Specialized Armadillo Elite are good as well. Run them at the max psi.
Above all else, make sure your wheels have 32 spokes and make sure they have been gone over by a knowledgeable wheel guy and taken to max tension. That plus good puncture resistant tires and maxing the psi on each ride will kept me rolling well on my first road bike.
I bought the bike on 9/11/13 and the first flat was 7/14/14 from running over a burr. That's 8 months of near daily riding with no flats. At this point the stock 32 spoke wheels have 1,764 miles on them and they are fine. I check their true periodically and all good.
I'd recommend getting some puncture resistant tires though. In the city my stock tires were find, but once I got into the country and started running over hard burrs, I had a couple of flats. Once switching to the Continental Gator Hardshell that stopped. The Specialized Armadillo Elite are good as well. Run them at the max psi.
Above all else, make sure your wheels have 32 spokes and make sure they have been gone over by a knowledgeable wheel guy and taken to max tension. That plus good puncture resistant tires and maxing the psi on each ride will kept me rolling well on my first road bike.
Never, considered the city / country... Flatting and busting wheels was country, some gravel. But my commute took me by some scrap yards, wire, other bits of metal. Even saw those razor blades you use on floor scrapers...
Used to love the Armadillo's then they changed. I hear they're great again. Haven't tried them, but my SO rides Espoir's...
At 350lbs your limiting factor is going to be tires and wheels. When I was at 300, I didn't feel comfortable on 28s, even though there are plenty of tandem teams that use the same width. At your weight, 28s would be the bare minimum I would recommend. Preferably, a reasonably performance oriented 32 or 35mm tire on the back. Most road "racing" frames will not accommodate anything larger than 28mm. A few even struggle with those. To accommodate 32s or 35s you're more or less limited to cyclocross or touring orient frames, although there are a few "adventure" or "gravel grinding" bikes now that will satisfy that requirement.
With regard to wheels, 32 spokes minimum, preferably 36. Few stock bikes will have those. Probably only touring bikes.
Add me to the list of respondents that would favour aluminum or carbon over steel. Unless you're particularly abusive toward your equipment. Stell will be more forgiving of lateral knocks and rough treatment. But, it tends to be heavier and more flexible than the aforementioned materials. Specially under a clyde.
Something like a Salsa Warbird. Although that's a few hundred over your stated budget. Trek Crockett or Crossrip. etc.
With regard to wheels, 32 spokes minimum, preferably 36. Few stock bikes will have those. Probably only touring bikes.
Add me to the list of respondents that would favour aluminum or carbon over steel. Unless you're particularly abusive toward your equipment. Stell will be more forgiving of lateral knocks and rough treatment. But, it tends to be heavier and more flexible than the aforementioned materials. Specially under a clyde.
Something like a Salsa Warbird. Although that's a few hundred over your stated budget. Trek Crockett or Crossrip. etc.
The main thing is don't let people scare you off what you want to ride.
If you want a drop bar/road/cross type bike, then get one. You can make it work for you.
I do think the disc brakes are a good idea. Not so much for stopping power, but because it will allow you to run whatever size tire you feel comfortable on. Where rim brakes won't let you put more than a 25, maybe a 28 on a road bike. Personally, I don't see a reason to go any bigger than that if you stay on the road, but some people do like the feel of a bigger tire and having disc brakes gives you that option if you decide you want to try them.
If you want a drop bar/road/cross type bike, then get one. You can make it work for you.
I do think the disc brakes are a good idea. Not so much for stopping power, but because it will allow you to run whatever size tire you feel comfortable on. Where rim brakes won't let you put more than a 25, maybe a 28 on a road bike. Personally, I don't see a reason to go any bigger than that if you stay on the road, but some people do like the feel of a bigger tire and having disc brakes gives you that option if you decide you want to try them.
02-24-15, 06:43 PM
#42
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The main thing is don't let people scare you off what you want to ride.
If you want a drop bar/road/cross type bike, then get one. You can make it work for you.
I do think the disc brakes are a good idea. Not so much for stopping power, but because it will allow you to run whatever size tire you feel comfortable on. Where rim brakes won't let you put more than a 25, maybe a 28 on a road bike. Personally, I don't see a reason to go any bigger than that if you stay on the road, but some people do like the feel of a bigger tire and having disc brakes gives you that option if you decide you want to try them.
If you want a drop bar/road/cross type bike, then get one. You can make it work for you.
I do think the disc brakes are a good idea. Not so much for stopping power, but because it will allow you to run whatever size tire you feel comfortable on. Where rim brakes won't let you put more than a 25, maybe a 28 on a road bike. Personally, I don't see a reason to go any bigger than that if you stay on the road, but some people do like the feel of a bigger tire and having disc brakes gives you that option if you decide you want to try them.
surly cross check will get you up to 700 x 42
surly long haul trucker will get you up to 700 x 45
Soma San Marcos will get up to 700 x 35
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
02-24-15, 07:14 PM
#43
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IMHO
Straight out I am a steel fan. As a total material for a long term investment in a bike it has the best combination of ride, durability and weight.
There is a lot of false info about steel being heavier than aluminum or steel. For the same level of quality the weight difference between steel, aluminum, and carbon is minimal. The problem is hard to find steel bike in all levels of quality. The frame is less than half the total weight of a bike, so for all the same components the difference is minimal.
here is rivendell's take Learn About Bikes with Rivendell Bicycle Works
and surlys Some Things About Our Steel | Spews | The Information Hole | Surly Bikes
That said, there are good to great aluminum and carbon bikes out there.....so the good new is there are lots of good choices
There have a been a lot of recommendations: here is mine
Go for a drop bar road bike...this will let you grow as your skills grow and body shrinks. Drops offer lot's of options for hand positions.
My specific recommendation based on OP budget and my opinions is:
the surly pacer
Pacer | Bikes | Surly Bikes
Price seems to vary depending on year and components ( based on some web searches) but seem to max at $1850...above OP Budget, but the componets at that price are 105. steel frame, 105 components, room for 32 mm tires (28 with fenders) good mix of comfort, speed and versatility
what ever bike you get....ride, smile, repeat
Straight out I am a steel fan. As a total material for a long term investment in a bike it has the best combination of ride, durability and weight.
There is a lot of false info about steel being heavier than aluminum or steel. For the same level of quality the weight difference between steel, aluminum, and carbon is minimal. The problem is hard to find steel bike in all levels of quality. The frame is less than half the total weight of a bike, so for all the same components the difference is minimal.
here is rivendell's take Learn About Bikes with Rivendell Bicycle Works
and surlys Some Things About Our Steel | Spews | The Information Hole | Surly Bikes
That said, there are good to great aluminum and carbon bikes out there.....so the good new is there are lots of good choices
There have a been a lot of recommendations: here is mine
Go for a drop bar road bike...this will let you grow as your skills grow and body shrinks. Drops offer lot's of options for hand positions.
My specific recommendation based on OP budget and my opinions is:
the surly pacer
Pacer | Bikes | Surly Bikes
Price seems to vary depending on year and components ( based on some web searches) but seem to max at $1850...above OP Budget, but the componets at that price are 105. steel frame, 105 components, room for 32 mm tires (28 with fenders) good mix of comfort, speed and versatility
what ever bike you get....ride, smile, repeat
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
02-24-15, 07:18 PM
#44
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The main thing is don't let people scare you off what you want to ride.
If you want a drop bar/road/cross type bike, then get one. You can make it work for you.
I do think the disc brakes are a good idea. Not so much for stopping power, but because it will allow you to run whatever size tire you feel comfortable on. Where rim brakes won't let you put more than a 25, maybe a 28 on a road bike. Personally, I don't see a reason to go any bigger than that if you stay on the road, but some people do like the feel of a bigger tire and having disc brakes gives you that option if you decide you want to try them.
If you want a drop bar/road/cross type bike, then get one. You can make it work for you.
I do think the disc brakes are a good idea. Not so much for stopping power, but because it will allow you to run whatever size tire you feel comfortable on. Where rim brakes won't let you put more than a 25, maybe a 28 on a road bike. Personally, I don't see a reason to go any bigger than that if you stay on the road, but some people do like the feel of a bigger tire and having disc brakes gives you that option if you decide you want to try them.
02-24-15, 07:43 PM
#45
Senior Member
He should have wrote, "calliper brakes". I suspect most of us understood and simply let it slide.
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Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
02-24-15, 07:52 PM
#46
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Salsa Warbird entry level is a bit over my limits but did cross some nice reviews on it them. Warbird | Bikes | Salsa Cycles
I've seen a couple of the Surly models i like as well. Cross-Check | Bikes | Surly Bikes is my favorite one but still steel tho.
The Secteur's look very clean, Specialized Bicycle Components in particular caught my eye. But looks like i would have to upgrade the wheels to a minimum 32 first thing with those.
I went to a bike shop about 40 miles away today and was recommended this CrossRip Elite - Trek Bicycle and i have to say i liked the feel of it and way lighter than my current bike.
I did have a chance to ride it in the parking lot for about 10 minutes and i didn't feel like anything was giving but i didn't crank down on it very much either.
Same as the last shop owner, he didn't recommend me getting a pure road bike and suggested i stay away from anything under 30mm tire size. So Im abandoning the road bike in favor of a cyclocross style. Baby steps i guess.
I honestly feel like the Trek may be the route I'm going, not fully committed yet as I'm still trying to research another brand.
Anyone have any input on FastRoad SLR 1 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States or TCX SLR 2 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States
Again, thanks for the replies.
I've seen a couple of the Surly models i like as well. Cross-Check | Bikes | Surly Bikes is my favorite one but still steel tho.
The Secteur's look very clean, Specialized Bicycle Components in particular caught my eye. But looks like i would have to upgrade the wheels to a minimum 32 first thing with those.
I went to a bike shop about 40 miles away today and was recommended this CrossRip Elite - Trek Bicycle and i have to say i liked the feel of it and way lighter than my current bike.
I did have a chance to ride it in the parking lot for about 10 minutes and i didn't feel like anything was giving but i didn't crank down on it very much either.
Same as the last shop owner, he didn't recommend me getting a pure road bike and suggested i stay away from anything under 30mm tire size. So Im abandoning the road bike in favor of a cyclocross style. Baby steps i guess.
I honestly feel like the Trek may be the route I'm going, not fully committed yet as I'm still trying to research another brand.
Anyone have any input on FastRoad SLR 1 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States or TCX SLR 2 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States
Again, thanks for the replies.
02-24-15, 09:14 PM
#47
Senior Member
Salsa Warbird entry level is a bit over my limits but did cross some nice reviews on it them. Warbird | Bikes | Salsa Cycles
I've seen a couple of the Surly models i like as well. Cross-Check | Bikes | Surly Bikes is my favorite one but still steel tho.
The Secteur's look very clean, Specialized Bicycle Components in particular caught my eye. But looks like i would have to upgrade the wheels to a minimum 32 first thing with those.
I went to a bike shop about 40 miles away today and was recommended this CrossRip Elite - Trek Bicycle and i have to say i liked the feel of it and way lighter than my current bike.
I did have a chance to ride it in the parking lot for about 10 minutes and i didn't feel like anything was giving but i didn't crank down on it very much either.
Same as the last shop owner, he didn't recommend me getting a pure road bike and suggested i stay away from anything under 30mm tire size. So Im abandoning the road bike in favor of a cyclocross style. Baby steps i guess.
I honestly feel like the Trek may be the route I'm going, not fully committed yet as I'm still trying to research another brand.
Anyone have any input on FastRoad SLR 1 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States or TCX SLR 2 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States
Again, thanks for the replies.
I've seen a couple of the Surly models i like as well. Cross-Check | Bikes | Surly Bikes is my favorite one but still steel tho.
The Secteur's look very clean, Specialized Bicycle Components in particular caught my eye. But looks like i would have to upgrade the wheels to a minimum 32 first thing with those.
I went to a bike shop about 40 miles away today and was recommended this CrossRip Elite - Trek Bicycle and i have to say i liked the feel of it and way lighter than my current bike.
I did have a chance to ride it in the parking lot for about 10 minutes and i didn't feel like anything was giving but i didn't crank down on it very much either.
Same as the last shop owner, he didn't recommend me getting a pure road bike and suggested i stay away from anything under 30mm tire size. So Im abandoning the road bike in favor of a cyclocross style. Baby steps i guess.
I honestly feel like the Trek may be the route I'm going, not fully committed yet as I'm still trying to research another brand.
Anyone have any input on FastRoad SLR 1 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States or TCX SLR 2 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States
Again, thanks for the replies.
Marvelously suited for the job...
If these were like this, or rather if I knew they were like this.
I wouldn't have built up a custom DT...
Notice, they have an more upright position...
Marvelous brakes, fits appropriate tires.
Even 2 bottle mounts and rack mounts.
Pretty much all my requirements when I built it up.
The shorter wheelbase will feel more responsive...
02-24-15, 10:44 PM
#48
Nigel
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Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........
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....... Last summer i went to my local bike shop was recommended for my $600 budget a Haro mountain bike which I bought and did have success with. The owner mentioned he didn't feel overly comfortable recommending me a road bike because of my size which I was fine with at that time. A few squeaks here and there but it held up to a runtastic 1482 miles worth of abuse (and by abuse I mean my weight, I only ever rode it on the road). I know how to "float" over objects and unavoidable road hazards. I don't remember ever having a rough impact with anything last summer/fall. I realize the inevitable will happen and I'll hit something or take a tumble but overall I'm a pretty decent rider.
Last fall something happened to me and it's changed my whole mentality about riding. I'm chugging along up a fairly long and steep stretch feeling pretty good about my pace when out of no where this cyclist wizzes by me seeming doing triple my speed, made all of about 3 seconds of road noise as he passed me and before I knew it, he was out of sight over the horizon. I realize I'll never be in the kind of physical shape that cyclist was but since that day I've been obsessing over a road bike to replace my mountain bike.
.......
Jason
Campbellsville, KY.
Last fall something happened to me and it's changed my whole mentality about riding. I'm chugging along up a fairly long and steep stretch feeling pretty good about my pace when out of no where this cyclist wizzes by me seeming doing triple my speed, made all of about 3 seconds of road noise as he passed me and before I knew it, he was out of sight over the horizon. I realize I'll never be in the kind of physical shape that cyclist was but since that day I've been obsessing over a road bike to replace my mountain bike.
.......
Jason
Campbellsville, KY.
On my main commuter ('92 Schwinn PDG70 - which can keep up with average road bikes on the bike trail); I have a Nashbar City Slick on the front and a Kenda 40-559 K193 Kwest on the back - I run both at 95 to 100 psi; along with Wheelmaster 40H cartridge bearing hubs, Wheelsmith SS14 spokes and Velocity Aeroheat rims. My other commuter is a '83 Schwinn World Tourist with Kenda K193 Kwest tires: 28-622 front, 35-622 rear, both on Velocity Dyad rims, Wheelsmith SS14 spokes and Wheelmaster 40H cartridge bearing hubs. The World Tourist is a little slower climbing mostly due to gearing differences, and a little bit due to being heavier. The World Tourist is faster on the level - again due to gearing.
Well trued wheels do make a difference in speed. I build my own to ±.003" axial runout (side to side) and ±.005" radial runout (roundness). Commercial grade wheels are about an order of magnitude worse (~ ±.030" & ~ ±.050").
02-24-15, 11:38 PM
#49
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Jason; it is mostly (>90%) about the engine (you). That said there are one very inexpensive thing you can do to your current ride: get a pair of Nashbar City Slicks Nashbar Slick City Tire which are 100 psi rated (at least the ones I got earlier this year are), 32-559 tires, and matching tubes. With that one change you will be within 5% of what you could do on a road bike.
Far as having wheels built from scratch, you know a website that list builders? Id like to find one in Kentucky and possibly go meet them in person to get an opinion.
Which were you referring to?
02-25-15, 06:28 AM
#50
Senior Member
Don't see the appeal of flat bar road/cross bikes, so I hope he meant the TCX. Honestly though I think there are better cross bikes to be had than those made by the "big three" (Trek, Specialized, Giant), but you're limited to what your bike shops sell.