Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

BMC SLR02 2014 - headset cap/dust cover fore aft movement

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

BMC SLR02 2014 - headset cap/dust cover fore aft movement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-31-23, 01:51 AM
  #1  
Assphalt
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
BMC SLR02 2014 - headset cap/dust cover fore aft movement

Hey guys,

since I purchased this nice new frameset (self built) 4 months ago from bike shop about 70 miles away, I have been having some headset loosening issues, mostly because of insufficient torque and poor stem. Anyway, bought 3T stem and headset (integrated, carbon frame) isnt loosening anymore, yet I still (it was always there more or less) have an issue with headset cover (NOT preload cap) slight forward movement when I hardly press front brake (rim brake) sit on the top tube and try to move the frame strongly forward and back. I can feel it when putting my finger over the headtube/headset cover gap. We are talking 0,1s of mm, small but sensible. Also the bars arent rotating as free as other bikes, not causing an issue just sensible when you let them swing from side to side when holding bike in the air. Im super anxious about this since the primal headset loosening issue has left cosmetic marks on bearing surfaces in the frame and on the fork, just cosmetic, not worn, cant include pictures because of local newbie policy.

Thanks for any opinions.

Edit: everything is greased, only clean area is on stem on steerer interface

Last edited by Assphalt; 10-31-23 at 02:11 AM.
Assphalt is offline  
Old 10-31-23, 07:19 AM
  #2  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,728

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5793 Post(s)
Liked 2,593 Times in 1,437 Posts
Given that you have a tight (steering drag) and loose (fork movement) headset at the same time, I suspect headset is not assembled correctly.

Possibly the bearings are not placed correctly, ie.one is either upside down or upper and lower are reversed. Or it wants a spacer below the top cap.

Take apart and reassemble double checking each step.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Likes For FBinNY:
Old 10-31-23, 11:14 AM
  #3  
Assphalt
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Thank you. Im pretty sure I placed everything I received in the package accordingly, will check the clearance on dust cover/headtube.

If bearing seats in carbon frame are bad, misaligned, either from headset loose or ever since I bought the frameset, is there any way to re- face them? Is it a job a LBS would do? Im talking tapered seats.



Originally Posted by FBinNY
Given that you have a tight (steering drag) and loose (fork movement) headset at the same time, I suspect headset is not assembled correctly.

Possibly the bearings are not placed correctly, ie.one is either upside down or upper and lower are reversed. Or it wants a spacer below the top cap.

Take apart and reassemble double checking each step.
Assphalt is offline  
Old 10-31-23, 11:17 AM
  #4  
Assphalt
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Photos:
Originally Posted by Assphalt
Thank you. Im pretty sure I placed everything I received in the package accordingly, will check the clearance on dust cover/headtube.

If bearing seats in carbon frame are bad, misaligned, either from headset loose or ever since I bought the frameset, is there any way to re- face them? Is it a job a LBS would do? Im talking tapered seats.

Assphalt is offline  
Old 10-31-23, 12:42 PM
  #5  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,728

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5793 Post(s)
Liked 2,593 Times in 1,437 Posts
I wouldn't worry about the frame or fork. That's almost surely not the problem. If it were it couldn't be fixed easily anyway.

Look for something touching or rubbing and keeping the bearing stack n from compressing.

It's possible that the frames top bearing pocket is too deep, so the top cap touches. If so, an added spacer will solve it.

Just be a detective and use your eyes and hands and you should be able to resolve this.

Last edited by FBinNY; 10-31-23 at 01:44 PM.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 10-31-23, 03:01 PM
  #6  
tFUnK
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 3,692

Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 432 Post(s)
Liked 461 Times in 318 Posts
I second the spacer suggestion. Had a similar issue on a Specialized Tricross and a spacer or two solved it for me. The spacer goes between the headset cover and the wedge that compresses down on the top bearings. I bought a multi-pack of thin spacers and needed two to fully resolve my issue.
tFUnK is offline  
Old 11-01-23, 05:50 AM
  #7  
Assphalt
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Will look into it, thanks. Pic:
(there is a rubber lip seal visible)

Originally Posted by tFUnK
I second the spacer suggestion. Had a similar issue on a Specialized Tricross and a spacer or two solved it for me. The spacer goes between the headset cover and the wedge that compresses down on the top bearings. I bought a multi-pack of thin spacers and needed two to fully resolve my issue.
Assphalt is offline  
Old 12-06-23, 03:27 AM
  #8  
Assphalt
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Assphalt
Will look into it, thanks. Pic:
(there is a rubber lip seal visible)

Little update and a new question:
headset has no play (same setup) when testing with front brake locked and pulling bike back and forth heavily but I can hear some "grease mashing noise" during the test. Also when droping the bike from height on front wheel the headset vibrates a little bit (other bike doesnt vibrate or definitely less) and makes that grease noise. Is there a need for a new hs bearing though it felt ok in hand? Could it be damaged from the previous loose setup in terms of causing this vibration?

Again, no play through "brake lock- push a bike with body "test.
Assphalt is offline  
Old 12-06-23, 10:09 AM
  #9  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,728

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5793 Post(s)
Liked 2,593 Times in 1,437 Posts
It's possible that a very slight increase in preload might eliminate that last vestigial bit of play. However I'd apply the Goldilocks rule and ignore it.

FYI the Goldilocks rule is, If you're sure there's play, it's too loose. If you're 100% positive there's no play, it might be too tight. If you're not sure either way,that's just right.

You've been obsessingover this f or too long, it's time to ride the bike.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 12-06-23, 08:34 PM
  #10  
oldbobcat
Senior Member
 
oldbobcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,398

Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 451 Times in 339 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
Given that you have a tight (steering drag) and loose (fork movement) headset at the same time, I suspect headset is not assembled correctly.

Possibly the bearings are not placed correctly, ie.one is either upside down or upper and lower are reversed. Or it wants a spacer below the top cap.

Take apart and reassemble double checking each step.
Or possibly somebody forgot to install the split wedge washer that keeps the top of the steerer centered in the top of the headtube. Something is moving in there and it shouldn't be to difficult to carefully dismantle it to find the culprit.
oldbobcat is offline  
Old 12-06-23, 10:05 PM
  #11  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,728

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5793 Post(s)
Liked 2,593 Times in 1,437 Posts
Originally Posted by oldbobcat
Or possibly somebody forgot to install the split wedge washer that keeps the top of the steerer centered in the top of the headtube. Something is moving in there and it shouldn't be to difficult to carefully dismantle it to find the culprit.
We're well past that. Read what followed the quoted passage.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 12-07-23, 03:23 AM
  #12  
choddo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 1,404
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 682 Post(s)
Liked 453 Times in 338 Posts
A linguistic aside: I’m assuming you’re not a native English speaker. “sensible” in English doesn’t mean something that can be sensed or felt. It means something that makes logical sense (a sensible idea or sensible clothing for the weather, for example). We actually don’t have a single word for it. Closest is probably “tactile” but that’s a bit different, used more for positive sensations like “GRX shifters are quite tactile”, so most people would resort to “it can be felt”. You have to love English.

Ref the headset, I have one on my gravel bike which seems less perfect than you describe in that last post and it rides absolutely fine. Do you still have the steering tightness?
choddo is offline  
Old 12-07-23, 04:53 AM
  #13  
Assphalt
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by choddo
A linguistic aside: I’m assuming you’re not a native English speaker. “sensible” in English doesn’t mean something that can be sensed or felt. It means something that makes logical sense (a sensible idea or sensible clothing for the weather, for example). We actually don’t have a single word for it. Closest is probably “tactile” but that’s a bit different, used more for positive sensations like “GRX shifters are quite tactile”, so most people would resort to “it can be felt”. You have to love English.

Ref the headset, I have one on my gravel bike which seems less perfect than you describe in that last post and it rides absolutely fine. Do you still have the steering tightness?


Good to know, I ordered new hs bearings anyway, unbranded are pretty cheap, will see if it improves.

Its still stiff, but only if you let the bars swing from side to side, completely ok for turning. But thats almost surely caused by the seal pressing against the frame, but since 0,5 mm washer didnt help, i suppose some seal friction is inevitable.
Assphalt is offline  
Old 12-07-23, 08:27 AM
  #14  
Crankycrank
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,677
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 839 Post(s)
Liked 1,064 Times in 747 Posts
Originally Posted by Assphalt
Its still stiff, but only if you let the bars swing from side to side, completely ok for turning. But thats almost surely caused by the seal pressing against the frame, but since 0,5 mm washer didnt help, i suppose some seal friction is inevitable.
Don't forget to take into account that the brake/shift cables create some resistance the further you turn the bars.
Crankycrank is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.