damo666red

baught some hope pro 4 hubs for my carrera fury and have upgraded frame to a 2018 Cube reaction TM 27.5..so i have converted the rear hub to boost for the new boost frame ..i originally had 10 speed sram x5 derrailier and 10 speed 11t-36t casset and now the derrailier wont reach the 36t ring on casset ..what do i need ..do i need new derrailier/hanger or some spacer?? google isnt helpfull for somone who doesnt know what they are searching for

headasunder

start by checking the low limit screw setting, can you manually push the derailleur onto the 36 tooth cog if not back out the low limit screw

damo666red

yes i tried these ..kinda screwed myself tho as i saw the b bolt (think thats what it s called like another limit screw)was bent went to unscrew and the threading snapped clean off so new derailleur needed ..will end this thread for now

maddog34

BEFORE you buy the same derailleur again, only to find it also may not work...
How many gears does the present cassette have?
what is the tooth count of the largest cog on the cassette?
i'll assume that the now broken derailleur was the X5... did the screw break outboard of the tab, but the Inner piece is still in place? If so, then it's still usable... but maybe not for a wider cassette, or one now positioned inboard of the previous hub....
What shifter are you shifting the derailleur with?
and finally.. what crankset are you using?

and, for future reference... the B-screw won't chage diddly in derailleur shift width range... but it might correct a pulley/cassette clash situation....

Kontact 

He said in the OP that it is a 10 speed 11-36t.


damo666red Boost should not affect your shifting. The B screw can prevent the derailleur shifting into the 36 if the jockey wheel is actually hitting the larger cog. But your new frame might have a slightly bent hanger or other minor issues that can prevent proper shifting.

KCT1986

Whether or not shifting would be affected would depend on the method that the boost conversion was done. If we assume 142 to 148, the 2 methods of converting are:

Add 6mm to the NDS and no change to the DS, wheel will then have to be redished. Cassette maintains the same position in relation to the dropout and shifting should be unaffected.

Or add 3mm each side of the hub, rim remains centered, dishing not affected. The cassette will now be 3mm more inboard in relation to the dropout, and the RD must be adjusted. High and low limit must be adjusted for the more inboard (in relation to the dropout) position. This may be faced with RD limitations.

So, the method (conversion kit) used will matter. This kit for Hope adds 3mm on each side.

Kontact 

That explains it.

The OP probably got this kind of symmetrical conversion, which I would bet Hope doesn't make. This kind of conversion works fine with single speed, but moving the cassette inboard can create range problems for any derailleur - especially one that doesn't have the cam arm of a SRAM 1:1 derailleur. More traditional derailleurs won't index normally that far inboard and out of their operating range.

Which is why I assumed no one would build a conversion like this.

Sounds like folks got SRAM derailleurs to work by putting a spacer under the cassette that got the low gear close enough.

KCT1986

The pictured conversion seems to be from Hope. Don't know if they offer an asymmetrical conversion option.

Hubs designed for boost to begin with, seems to use wider flange to flange widths and push the cassette chainline outboard.

Kontact 

I scoured Hope's website for a 142 to 148 conversion - I don't think this is their product. They have full charts of conversions they offer between different axle ends, but not between hub types.

https://www.hopetech.com/products/hu...nversion-kits/
https://www.hopetech.com/_repository...rt2023V3.1.pdf

The whole point of Boost is wider flange spacing for a stronger wheel, and a change in chainline to accomplish that. Adding 3mm axle caps doesn't accomplish either:
https://enduro-mtb.com/en/tech-talk-...ard-all-about/

This appears to be an aftermarket kit that takes advantage of Hope's easy swapping axle ends.

KCT1986

Kontact 

Funny it doesn't show on their website. But if it is a Hope system, then Hope should have a solution better than the ones I have named.

damo666red

Hi thanks for all the replys wasnt expecting this many. i have gone and baught a new sram gx derailleur.

I am using sram x7 shifter (use to have x5 but wanted to mount to hope brakes) and crankset is Raceface Aeffect Crankset 175mm /24mm axle 32tooth cinch direct mount chainring(closest to orignal that came on the cube bike orginaly) frame is 2018 cube reaction tm 27.5.

Now the hope conversion kit is the one everyone has posted.(forgot to mention i have converted from QR ) i have put together reading the exact instructions that came with the kit and what people are posting here.

I am still getting the same issue where the operating range of the derailleur is just short from the 36T cog as the casset is sitting more inboard in relation to the dropout, so i think the asymmetrical conversion kit (if available) that KCT1986 mentioned may be the thing i need and i will redish the wheel ..oooor long shot i might be wrong here but im wondering if i can change the hanger as the hanger angles away from the hub/frame..if the hanger was flat it would definitely reach the 36t cog.

I wish i could post pics but not alowed yet. sorry that im such noob on this.

I want to mention i know boost is meant to be stronger but im just a casual rider nothing harsh so not worried its not gunna peform how boost is inteded for..i just want this build to be done and i can have nice smooth ride with my new hope pro4 hubs .

Kontact 

It's possible Cube made two kinds of hangers. Only Cube would know for sure.

Did.you try adding a cassette spacer?


I would also be contacting Hope. I don't see how they assumed this would work.

damo666red

i really hope thats the case ..im doing alot of research .

i havent tryed a cassette spacer i will try this, the only issue i think may happen is may not be able to screw in the locking cap(but i dont know)

i will most probably do that .so many confusing things haha

again ty

Kontact 

You can generally get at least a 1mm in there.

damo666red

after a quick inspection there is infact a 2mm spacer before the casset..the screw cap is almost flush to end cog

damo666red

i have found on another thorum mtbr.com/threads/boost-convert-hope-hubs.1134147/

and they have used this kit wolftoothcomponents.com/products/boostinator?variant=17761372485

says pro 2 but work fine on pro 4 ..i would just have to get the normal DS end cap and use this kit and redish the wheel.

(cant post links yet so took out the first parts)

KCT1986

Yes, that Wolftooth kit will probably work to solve your RD problem. It changes the conversion method between the 2 options that I mentioned above.

So, it seems that the kit from Hope needs a RD that has enough additional range on the low end. Wonder if Hope did it this way to avoid the redishing necessity, or if they had other concerns regarding the additional axle length on the NDS &/or brake rotor repositioning. The hub shell (based on flange to flange) seems a little narrow, possibly since it was also used for 135mm.

damo666red

thanks i will go for that then . bit costy with the non boost cap but in the end ill have a ridable bike ..thanks guys for saving me from any more fustration ..have helped alot .i will post if and when its done and woking.

damo666red

hey guys after getting the boostinator i had the same problem ..so i found a different hanger more flat and shorter and it now goes through the gears perfectly and my bike is now ridable.ty for all the help.

KCT1986

Glad you were able to get it working.

Your 'old' RD hanger may have been designed for a different type of attachment. Possibly like the Shimano direct mount for Shadow style RD without using the bracket axle plate.