Carbon frame and aluminum seat post torque setting
#1
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Carbon frame and aluminum seat post torque setting
I have a carbon frame and with a aluminium seat post and seat clamp says 6-8nm torque spec.
im still waiting for my torque wrench to come in , but I’ve been using 5nm torque wrench and it hasn’t slipped , should I be concerned ?
will I damage something by being off by the torque specification ?
im still waiting for my torque wrench to come in , but I’ve been using 5nm torque wrench and it hasn’t slipped , should I be concerned ?
will I damage something by being off by the torque specification ?
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If the seatpost has not slipped or twisted, then you are fine at 5 Nm.
Did you use any grease between the seatpost and the frame?
Did you use any grease between the seatpost and the frame?
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#3
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so the bike is only couple months old and bought from a trek dealer, so Im assuming they did everything that should be for preventative care , then the question becomes , when my torque wrench comes , should I torque it at 6nm (the spec says 6-8nm) or leave it at 5nm?
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so the bike is only couple months old and bought from a trek dealer, so Im assuming they did everything that should be for preventative care , then the question becomes , when my torque wrench comes , should I torque it at 6nm (the spec says 6-8nm) or leave it at 5nm?
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The torque spec is maximum, not minimum. If it doesn't slip, it's fine. If it slips it probably won't be "catastrophic", but merely noticeable. FWIW, I use my 5nm torque key for almost everything with a low torque unless it doesn't hold. Only then I use my beam-type torque wrench.
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The torque spec is maximum, not minimum. If it doesn't slip, it's fine. If it slips it probably won't be "catastrophic", but merely noticeable. FWIW, I use my 5nm torque key for almost everything with a low torque unless it doesn't hold. Only then I use my beam-type torque wrench.
With cycling, there is more marketing and nonsense than engineering.
Having said that, if the torque spec. says 6-8 Nm, in a carbon frame, I would use some carbon mounting paste and tighten it to 6 Nm.
My 2c on tightening torque and torque wrenches.
P.S.
A thing to look out for with a carbon-aluminium connection is the galvanic corrosion.
It would probably be a good idea to remove the seatpost at least once every 6 months, clean, re-apply the carbon-assembly (mounting) paste, and put it back (of course).
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My take is that if it's not slipping it's probably fine but if I just purchased a new torque wrench to check something I'm worried about (plus, I can't resist trying out a new tool) just go ahead and re-torque it and you can relax about it and concentrate on just riding. You've got nothing to lose except 5 mins of your time.
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Does CF assembly paste also prevent galvanic corrosion?
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As far as I know - no.
Anti-seize paste does, but that's not a good idea for carbon parts (as you need to increase grip and friction, since carbon doesn't take much compression very well - and anti-seize paste is "greasy").
Relja
Anti-seize paste does, but that's not a good idea for carbon parts (as you need to increase grip and friction, since carbon doesn't take much compression very well - and anti-seize paste is "greasy").
Relja
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That is my understanding as well, which is why I recommended grease to the OP originally.
Exactly. I only use anti-seize when installing pedals (and spark plugs, for my car).
Anti-seize paste does, but that's not a good idea for carbon parts (as you need to increase grip and friction, since carbon doesn't take much compression very well - and anti-seize paste is "greasy").