Do 15-20 grams matter for spin up?
#1
meow
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Hint: check out my BF name
Posts: 5,831
Bikes: 2016 Parlee Altum, 2013 Cannondale Super Six Evo Hi Mod Di2 only, 2011 Cannondale Super Six, Dura Ace 7800, 2007 Cannondale System Six Dura Ace 7800, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1, MB-2, MB-3, MB-5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
Do 15-20 grams matter for spin up?
Dear Abby,
For the love of money, I switched to the KMC DX10SC ($26.23 w/ free shipping -- thank you Amazon) from the KMC x10SL (I think I paid about $60 including shipping). The drivetrain feels smooth and the shifting is like buttah. But, I'm concerned that the 15-20 gram difference might come back to haunt me over the course of a 60 mile race, or, when I need to ramp it up quickly for a sprint to the line.
Should I think about replacing other bike parts to compensate for this gain in weight? Perhaps Campy Super Record? And, fyi, I'm already on a diet to lose body weight.
Thank you.
- Gramcerned
For the love of money, I switched to the KMC DX10SC ($26.23 w/ free shipping -- thank you Amazon) from the KMC x10SL (I think I paid about $60 including shipping). The drivetrain feels smooth and the shifting is like buttah. But, I'm concerned that the 15-20 gram difference might come back to haunt me over the course of a 60 mile race, or, when I need to ramp it up quickly for a sprint to the line.
Should I think about replacing other bike parts to compensate for this gain in weight? Perhaps Campy Super Record? And, fyi, I'm already on a diet to lose body weight.
Thank you.
- Gramcerned
#3
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
What thread is this a parody of ? I must've missed it .... or is it 41 in general ?
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#4
meow
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Hint: check out my BF name
Posts: 5,831
Bikes: 2016 Parlee Altum, 2013 Cannondale Super Six Evo Hi Mod Di2 only, 2011 Cannondale Super Six, Dura Ace 7800, 2007 Cannondale System Six Dura Ace 7800, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1, MB-2, MB-3, MB-5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
(In the Training Status thread, I made mention of my new chain. JB suggested, with racing season over for most of us, to toss it into a thread. Although, the post is probably a parody of something other than my life.)
#5
slow up hills
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 4,931
Bikes: Giant TCR, Redline CX, Ritchey Breakaway, Spec S-works epic
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Abby says it might not matter, but if you need an excuse, hang on to it.
#6
gmt
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 12,509
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Dear Abby,
For the love of money, I switched to the KMC DX10SC ($26.23 w/ free shipping -- thank you Amazon) from the KMC x10SL (I think I paid about $60 including shipping). The drivetrain feels smooth and the shifting is like buttah. But, I'm concerned that the 15-20 gram difference might come back to haunt me over the course of a 60 mile race, or, when I need to ramp it up quickly for a sprint to the line.
Should I think about replacing other bike parts to compensate for this gain in weight? Perhaps Campy Super Record? And, fyi, I'm already on a diet to lose body weight.
Thank you.
- Gramcerned
For the love of money, I switched to the KMC DX10SC ($26.23 w/ free shipping -- thank you Amazon) from the KMC x10SL (I think I paid about $60 including shipping). The drivetrain feels smooth and the shifting is like buttah. But, I'm concerned that the 15-20 gram difference might come back to haunt me over the course of a 60 mile race, or, when I need to ramp it up quickly for a sprint to the line.
Should I think about replacing other bike parts to compensate for this gain in weight? Perhaps Campy Super Record? And, fyi, I'm already on a diet to lose body weight.
Thank you.
- Gramcerned
#7
Resident Alien
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Location, location.
Posts: 13,089
Mentioned: 158 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 349 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
6 Posts
First off, is it 15 or 20 grams? That's over 30% margin for error and you're looking for some kind of specific advice?
If you go to analretentivecycling.com you'll find that on a 60 mile, 15% grade there's a big difference between 15g and 20g.
Get your sheet together then come back and ask the question.
If you go to analretentivecycling.com you'll find that on a 60 mile, 15% grade there's a big difference between 15g and 20g.
Get your sheet together then come back and ask the question.
#9
Quarq shill
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,962
Bikes: 08 Felt F4, 05 Fuji Team SL, 08 Planet X Stealth, 10 Kona Jake the Snake, 03 Giant OCR flat bar.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I would bet you could get that down to a reasonable weight by sanding the excess link pin off each side with a Dremel. Maybe even hit the outside of each link itself for ultra savings.
#12
meow
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Hint: check out my BF name
Posts: 5,831
Bikes: 2016 Parlee Altum, 2013 Cannondale Super Six Evo Hi Mod Di2 only, 2011 Cannondale Super Six, Dura Ace 7800, 2007 Cannondale System Six Dura Ace 7800, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1, MB-2, MB-3, MB-5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
First off, is it 15 or 20 grams? That's over 30% margin for error and you're looking for some kind of specific advice?
If you go to analretentivecycling.com you'll find that on a 60 mile, 15% grade there's a big difference between 15g and 20g.
Get your sheet together then come back and ask the question.
If you go to analretentivecycling.com you'll find that on a 60 mile, 15% grade there's a big difference between 15g and 20g.
Get your sheet together then come back and ask the question.
cslone -- Excellent idea. The bonus is that it doesn't cost a dime (assuming I can find my wife's nail file).
kensuf -- Clearly, you are wiser beyond your years.
rtc -- My concern was that it would not be taken seriously in the 41. Seriousness is the difference between a pack finish and crossing the line first. (I'm tempted to say that I'll be riding to win in 2011; but, as I could imagine Dr. Phil saying to me, "how'd that work for ya in 2010?")
#13
Making a kilometer blurry
Just use a lighter lube.
The rotating nature of the chain still won't make much difference. The biggest chain rotational accelerations you're going to experience are when you go from coasting to pedaling. Compared to the force needed to accelerate your two 15 to 20-lb legs (>450x heavier), the chain differences only amount to 0.02% of the drivetrain/motor weight.
The rotating nature of the chain still won't make much difference. The biggest chain rotational accelerations you're going to experience are when you go from coasting to pedaling. Compared to the force needed to accelerate your two 15 to 20-lb legs (>450x heavier), the chain differences only amount to 0.02% of the drivetrain/motor weight.
#14
slow up hills
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 4,931
Bikes: Giant TCR, Redline CX, Ritchey Breakaway, Spec S-works epic
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just use a lighter lube.
The rotating nature of the chain still won't make much difference. The biggest chain rotational accelerations you're going to experience are when you go from coasting to pedaling. Compared to the force needed to accelerate your two 15 to 20-lb legs (>450x heavier), the chain differences only amount to 0.02% of the drivetrain/motor weight.
The rotating nature of the chain still won't make much difference. The biggest chain rotational accelerations you're going to experience are when you go from coasting to pedaling. Compared to the force needed to accelerate your two 15 to 20-lb legs (>450x heavier), the chain differences only amount to 0.02% of the drivetrain/motor weight.
#16
Resident Alien
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Location, location.
Posts: 13,089
Mentioned: 158 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 349 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
6 Posts
Otherwise we're left to do your homework for you with instructions to "write an essay". Vagueistan is where lazy people live.
I'm sure someone's going to play the "big dump" card soon, like if I have light components on my bike I'm somehow constipated. FWIW knowing they couldn't do anything with their bikes because of the UCI weight minimum, Sky gave all their climbers high colonics prior to the mountain stages at the TDF, along with having a professional manicurist do both finger AND toenails down to the bare minimum, and had their fillings replaced with titanium (along with the zippers on their kits BTW).
Marginals gains add up.
#20
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
For criteriums, where you only use the smaller cogs, you can grind down the larger cogs so that they are just spacers ... saves a ton of rotating weight.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#24
Senior Member
On the other hand, the chain grinding idea gave me an idea - drilling out all the locknuts on my hubs and such. Spacers too.
#25
meow
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Hint: check out my BF name
Posts: 5,831
Bikes: 2016 Parlee Altum, 2013 Cannondale Super Six Evo Hi Mod Di2 only, 2011 Cannondale Super Six, Dura Ace 7800, 2007 Cannondale System Six Dura Ace 7800, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1, MB-2, MB-3, MB-5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
I remember running multiple "small" cogs because I wouldn't need more than an 18 or 19T. This was on a freewheel so I couldn't use all small cogs. I was so dumb.
On the other hand, the chain grinding idea gave me an idea - drilling out all the locknuts on my hubs and such. Spacers too.
On the other hand, the chain grinding idea gave me an idea - drilling out all the locknuts on my hubs and such. Spacers too.
I am far from a wrench. Is this a part near the bottom bracket?