Taking my bike back -- Opinions on the next option?
#26
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The thing that is missing from the video is any information about what stresses, crashes or whatever caused these failures. I doubt these were spontaneous failures, even from age. There are plenty of similar photos of the failures of all bike materials. Surely perhaps at higher stress loads, but still failures. The narrator says, when you crash carbon, you must inspect it before using it again. That about sums it up.
#27
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The thing that is missing from the video is any information about what stresses, crashes or whatever caused these failures. I doubt these were spontaneous failures, even from age. There are plenty of similar photos of the failures of all bike materials. Surely perhaps at higher stress loads, but still failures. The narrator says, when you crash carbon, you must inspect it before using it again. That about sums it up.
The mystery of the material doesn't help. It is new on the scene, relatively, and everyone has different opinions.
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If you are worried about a carbon frame from a well know maker failing then you are worry about nothing.
Your biggest worry should be getting the fit right.
Then worry about putting 100k on and finding a crack.
Your biggest worry should be getting the fit right.
Then worry about putting 100k on and finding a crack.
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I've been riding carbon frames for 6 or 7 years now without a serious failure. There was a Giant that gave me a cracked seatpost and eventually died of micro-tears in the resin, but I'd bought it used and I've had two people tell me that lots of Giants from that period did that. Newer carbon bikes have improved through extremely high compression in the molding process, modular construction, and better resins.
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If I were buying a carbon bike, I would buy it from Competitive Cyclist- who offers a LIFETIME return-it-at-any-time-no-questions-asked warranty and have some great deals.
Manufacturer's warranties, from what I've heard, are not that great- i.e. they often deny claims; or they only give you partial credit towards a new frame which you have to purchase from them or one of their dealers, at retail price...so you really don't end up saving anything on the replacement over what you could just buy one for, elsewhere.
And as others have said: Nothing wrong with Tiagra. One of my bikes is D/A...and my other is Sora(gasp!)- and they boith work equally well, as I keep them both in good tune (Which is not hard on either).
Manufacturer's warranties, from what I've heard, are not that great- i.e. they often deny claims; or they only give you partial credit towards a new frame which you have to purchase from them or one of their dealers, at retail price...so you really don't end up saving anything on the replacement over what you could just buy one for, elsewhere.
And as others have said: Nothing wrong with Tiagra. One of my bikes is D/A...and my other is Sora(gasp!)- and they boith work equally well, as I keep them both in good tune (Which is not hard on either).
#32
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If you're getting the cannondale, save your money and get the CAAD10. Best bike Cdale makes.
The SST and Altamira are great bikes. Both are pro team frames and used in the pro peloton. They are also great riding frames.
Fuji also has the Gran Fondo which is a full carbon sport bike in your pricepoint.
The SST and Altamira are great bikes. Both are pro team frames and used in the pro peloton. They are also great riding frames.
Fuji also has the Gran Fondo which is a full carbon sport bike in your pricepoint.
#33
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If you're getting the cannondale, save your money and get the CAAD10. Best bike Cdale makes.
The SST and Altamira are great bikes. Both are pro team frames and used in the pro peloton. They are also great riding frames.
Fuji also has the Gran Fondo which is a full carbon sport bike in your pricepoint.
The SST and Altamira are great bikes. Both are pro team frames and used in the pro peloton. They are also great riding frames.
Fuji also has the Gran Fondo which is a full carbon sport bike in your pricepoint.
There you, smart shopper.
I've been riding carbon frames for 6 or 7 years now without a serious failure. There was a Giant that gave me a cracked seatpost and eventually died of micro-tears in the resin, but I'd bought it used and I've had two people tell me that lots of Giants from that period did that. Newer carbon bikes have improved through extremely high compression in the molding process, modular construction, and better resins.
I've been riding carbon frames for 6 or 7 years now without a serious failure. There was a Giant that gave me a cracked seatpost and eventually died of micro-tears in the resin, but I'd bought it used and I've had two people tell me that lots of Giants from that period did that. Newer carbon bikes have improved through extremely high compression in the molding process, modular construction, and better resins.
#34
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If I am going aluminum my only option is CAAD8 unfortunately, and no one has recommended that over their supersix.
6-7 years and those are your only failures? That is a track record that could make me a confident carbon rider. How do you normally ride though? I'll definitely be ridding city streets as well as the local track.
6-7 years and those are your only failures? That is a track record that could make me a confident carbon rider. How do you normally ride though? I'll definitely be ridding city streets as well as the local track.
The vast majority of broken carbon you see comes from serious crashes or collisions. A superlight alloy frame like the CAAD isn't going to hold up well to that either. Do you know how thin that tubing is?
Many years ago, there were a whole host of people who were convinced that aluminium was a completely unsuitable bike material and riding it was a deathwish - aluminium alloys are permanently damaged by small stresses and can fail suddenly and without warning when stressed over time - and you can see how that turned out.
Carbon is actually incredibly resilient to normal stresses - more so than alloy. It's the sudden, hard shocks that can damage it.
Last edited by Nerull; 05-13-13 at 06:18 PM.
#35
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I've got over 30k on my 2009 Specialized Roubaix. Cracks are the least of my concerns as the entire bike needs a new group now.
Warranty?
This is about the relationship you have with your LBS. If my frame ever cracked I know my LBS would go to bat for me and I would get a new replacement. It pays to shop local.
But I plan on putting another 70k on this frame and then hang it on my wall.
Warranty?
This is about the relationship you have with your LBS. If my frame ever cracked I know my LBS would go to bat for me and I would get a new replacement. It pays to shop local.
But I plan on putting another 70k on this frame and then hang it on my wall.
#36
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I did try a 56, and i felt ok though it's on the long end. Being in the middle, I decided that Id rather have a bit longer stem than to shorten it. I like the handling stability that comes along with that.
I do have to say, running into this made me feel a little uneasy though. Other videos talk about delamination and other maintenance-- doing some more research on carbon wear and tear this evening.
I do have to say, running into this made me feel a little uneasy though. Other videos talk about delamination and other maintenance-- doing some more research on carbon wear and tear this evening.
But personally I wouldn't worry about this likelihood one bit and I ride a CF frame. Life isn't perfect, but the goal is to enjoy the ride so to speak. Given that anything can fail because of poor materials or improper workmanship, you just have to evaluate the odds and since the odds are extremely slim, I wouldn't worry about it. If CF bikes work for racers putting them under much more demanding situations than a normal rider ever will, they'll work for you too.
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Not sure how you can say you got a great deal if it doesn't fit, this should be the #1 priority for any bike.
That said, you can always make a small bike bigger, with stem & seatpost adjustment, just look at the stem length at the Giro this year, they are getting real long again.
I personally think he's headed in the right direction in checking into a larger frame, especially if he can now return that bike, and using his new knowledge and experience, participate intelligently in selecting a new frame.
I also think it's wrong to cite the way pros are setting up their bikes as an example of how to get a fit. In fact, my personal opinion is that most people, when "in between" frame sizes would be much better off sizing up rather than down. Because most riders, even fast, enthusiastic recreational riders and amateur racers, would be better off with a more comfortable fit as opposed to maximizing saddle-bar drop in the thought of being "aero". Most aren't physically able to handle it comfortably and overall speed will suffer. Or - if one wants to get as aero as his/her hips and physique will tolerate, get in the drops and bend the elbows. A slightly larger frame gives more options for the majority of non-pros. IMHO of course.
Last edited by Camilo; 05-14-13 at 06:35 PM.
#38
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Absolutely
That's true only so far. If you recall, OP said he already had a bunch of spacers under the stem and still felt the bars are too low. Without getting a high angle stem or getting a steer tube extender, that is one factor that you can't correct on a frame that is too small.
I personally think he's headed in the right direction in checking into a larger frame, especially if he can now return that bike, and using his new knowledge and experience, participate intelligently in selecting a new frame.
I also think it's wrong to cite the way pros are setting up their bikes as an example of how to get a fit. In fact, my personal opinion is that most people, when "in between" frame sizes would be much better off sizing up rather than down. Because most riders, even fast, enthusiastic recreational riders and amateur racers, would be better off with a more comfortable fit as opposed to maximizing saddle-bar drop in the thought of being "aero". Most aren't physically able to handle it comfortably and overall speed will suffer. Or - if one wants to get as aero as his/her hips and physique will tolerate, get in the drops and bend the elbows. A slightly larger frame gives more options for the majority of non-pros. IMHO of course.
That's true only so far. If you recall, OP said he already had a bunch of spacers under the stem and still felt the bars are too low. Without getting a high angle stem or getting a steer tube extender, that is one factor that you can't correct on a frame that is too small.
I personally think he's headed in the right direction in checking into a larger frame, especially if he can now return that bike, and using his new knowledge and experience, participate intelligently in selecting a new frame.
I also think it's wrong to cite the way pros are setting up their bikes as an example of how to get a fit. In fact, my personal opinion is that most people, when "in between" frame sizes would be much better off sizing up rather than down. Because most riders, even fast, enthusiastic recreational riders and amateur racers, would be better off with a more comfortable fit as opposed to maximizing saddle-bar drop in the thought of being "aero". Most aren't physically able to handle it comfortably and overall speed will suffer. Or - if one wants to get as aero as his/her hips and physique will tolerate, get in the drops and bend the elbows. A slightly larger frame gives more options for the majority of non-pros. IMHO of course.
#40
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All bikes fail. We'll be seeing more carbon failures because more carbon bikes are being sold. Back when aluminum was super popular, I could show you lots of aluminum failures. The material is fine. A friend still rides his Tarmac everywhere that is a 2007 with 5 race seasons on it, 3 crashes and about 10K/ year. Another guy I know ran into a post at low speed and cracked the chainstay. I could go on and on with anecdotes, but that's all they are. This material is good, it is durable, and it's here to stay.
Buy the bike and get a fitting if you can swing it too.
Buy the bike and get a fitting if you can swing it too.
#41
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All bikes fail. We'll be seeing more carbon failures because more carbon bikes are being sold. Back when aluminum was super popular, I could show you lots of aluminum failures. The material is fine. A friend still rides his Tarmac everywhere that is a 2007 with 5 race seasons on it, 3 crashes and about 10K/ year. Another guy I know ran into a post at low speed and cracked the chainstay. I could go on and on with anecdotes, but that's all they are. This material is good, it is durable, and it's here to stay.
Buy the bike and get a fitting if you can swing it too.
Buy the bike and get a fitting if you can swing it too.
#42
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I did try a 56, and i felt ok though it's on the long end. Being in the middle, I decided that Id rather have a bit longer stem than to shorten it. I like the handling stability that comes along with that.
I do have to say, running into this made me feel a little uneasy though. Other videos talk about delamination and other maintenance-- doing some more research on carbon wear and tear this evening.
I do have to say, running into this made me feel a little uneasy though. Other videos talk about delamination and other maintenance-- doing some more research on carbon wear and tear this evening.
#43
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Don't forget about your gear.
Bibs, Jerseys, Helmet, Frame pump, patch kit, spare tubes.
Clipless pedals and shoes.
Good luck. I'd go Supersix, then again I'm biased because I own one. You will most likely want to upgrade later; good for you Caad10's and SS's have a good resell as opposed to Fuji which is slightly less
Bibs, Jerseys, Helmet, Frame pump, patch kit, spare tubes.
Clipless pedals and shoes.
Good luck. I'd go Supersix, then again I'm biased because I own one. You will most likely want to upgrade later; good for you Caad10's and SS's have a good resell as opposed to Fuji which is slightly less
#44
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What did you end up getting, Mike?
If I am going aluminum my only option is CAAD8 unfortunately, and no one has recommended that over their supersix.
6-7 years and those are your only failures? That is a track record that could make me a confident carbon rider. How do you normally ride though? I'll definitely be ridding city streets as well as the local track.
6-7 years and those are your only failures? That is a track record that could make me a confident carbon rider. How do you normally ride though? I'll definitely be ridding city streets as well as the local track.