QR Rear wheel shift in frame?
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Also make sure dishing is proper on the wheels.
Tire should sit in the right spot with the bike sitting on the floor, both wheels on the ground, and skewer loose.
Tire should sit in the right spot with the bike sitting on the floor, both wheels on the ground, and skewer loose.
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Unlikely since the axle would then be way too short, but definitely agree that the dropout is too large or the axle is too small.
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You said you had just serviced the hub - did you loosen both the DS and NDS lockouts when this was performed? I ask because it looks like the axle is not centered properly, and the end of the NDS axle may be protruding past the outer edge of the drop out. If this is the case, it would make sense that the skewer cannot hold the hub in place, as it would be tightening directly against the axle end, and not the dropout. I could be completely wrong, but those pictures seem to show this as a potential cause of the problem.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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I had that exact same problem when I had a broken axle. That's how I learned it was broken, because when I'd put pressure on the pedals the tire would rub on the left chain stay & seat stay. When I pulled the rear wheel off to see why it was doing that, that's when I learned the axle was broken.
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See t2p 's post above. It looks like the dropouts have worn too large.
There are clear sharp outlines/indents at either end of the dropout, which led me to think of a missing metal facing. And the obvious more open cradle would suggest a 'liner' to take up the excess space in the cradle and also provide a clamping surface for the QR.
Most NDS dropouts are flush at the QR clamping surface. compare with urbanknight's pic of a dropout. And notice the space/distance from axle end to QR clamping surface...
The CR1 axle end is almost flush with the current clamping surface... a little more wear and that wheel will no longer become tight with the QR in place properly.
#33
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You said you had just serviced the hub - did you loosen both the DS and NDS lockouts when this was performed? I ask because it looks like the axle is not centered properly, and the end of the NDS axle may be protruding past the outer edge of the drop out. If this is the case, it would make sense that the skewer cannot hold the hub in place, as it would be tightening directly against the axle end, and not the dropout. I could be completely wrong, but those pictures seem to show this as a potential cause of the problem.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Only loosed one side, axles are not standing proud of drop out.
He did 40 quick miles after this maintenance with no reoccurrence, so I'm thinking any wear in the dropouts was caused by improper tightening, but still serviceable if watched closely.
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Not much more needs to be said. They could be repaired with a metal machined sleeve (bike mechanic with machine tools and skills) or perhaps with a simple fix (clever bike mechanic) or the bike being ridden carefully on carefully inserted wheels (and not too hard). Is your son up the the last option? I"m guessing no, but i do not know him. In my youth I did unspeakable things to my UO-8 dropout.
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You could probably make a quick temporary fix by bending a piece of aluminum to keep the quick release axle from shifting. Here is a pic to one I made for a horizontal dropout. On my 80s UNIVEGA It works really well for a 250# masher using ChiCom quick releases. You will need to reconfigure for your vertical dropout. Just an idea...
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I think this is one case where a hack repair would be suitable. I would figure out where the axle should be in the dropout and add something to make it so it stays there. Unlike the cracked head tube, I don't really see how this is a safety critical issue. If you really wanted to do it right, I imagine a carbon repair place could fix it up for a reasonable price. Or even just get a carbon repair kit and diy. But I would check with someone that does it all the time first.