Grrr, no axle nuts at Home Despot!
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You can always try your local thrift store. You might have to buy a spare wheel, but it may be cheaper than just the bare nut. Strip the parts off you that you want, ten donate it back to them.
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infamous isle 18. we only voluntarily went down that isle if it was really slow & boring everywhere else, or if a pretty woman needed help. can't tell you how many times I helped ppl search, but ultimately tell them, sorry we don't have everything
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Maybe so, but you better hope for not without a metal cap in place and secure. In drag racing the cores can be depressed from the rotational force at speed. It can be pretty hairy if you lose pressure on a rear slick that only has a few psi to begin with or a front tire that you are relying on to keep you going straight at serious speed. Presta's could solve some of this but that ain't gonna happen.
I work at a shop that sells and repairs bikes and we get everything from high end road bikes to Wal-Mart specials. All the bikes I see with nuts on the axles have 3/8x26 on the rear, regardless of whether they are single speed or multi-speed internal and 3/8x24 nuts on the front axles. It's just a fact of life that some things on bicycles have to be weird especially when although they're 3/8 inch fasteners you use a 15mm wrench. And another thing that amuses me is when my co-workers tell customers that presta valves are superior to schrader valves even though presta valves are on nothing else in the universe but bicycle tires. $100,000 cars and $200,000,000 airliners use good old schrader valves. And aircraft use schrader valves not only one the tires but the landing gear struts which can be subject to thousands of pounds of pressure.
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I'm not sure why Presta is popular. They are good with the skinny tires, but one can run 27x1 schrader valves too.
The locking valve probably isn't necessary when running 100+ PSI.
I was told years ago to deflate my sewups when not in use. I don't know if it did anything, but the presta is handy for that. I suppose fixing a slow leak, it is handy to deflate, but a leak usually self-deflates, and thus the problem.
The locking valve probably isn't necessary when running 100+ PSI.
I was told years ago to deflate my sewups when not in use. I don't know if it did anything, but the presta is handy for that. I suppose fixing a slow leak, it is handy to deflate, but a leak usually self-deflates, and thus the problem.
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I'm not sure why Presta is popular. They are good with the skinny tires, but one can run 27x1 schrader valves too.
The locking valve probably isn't necessary when running 100+ PSI.
I was told years ago to deflate my sewups when not in use. I don't know if it did anything, but the presta is handy for that. I suppose fixing a slow leak, it is handy to deflate, but a leak usually self-deflates, and thus the problem.
The locking valve probably isn't necessary when running 100+ PSI.
I was told years ago to deflate my sewups when not in use. I don't know if it did anything, but the presta is handy for that. I suppose fixing a slow leak, it is handy to deflate, but a leak usually self-deflates, and thus the problem.
1- they're narrower, meaning smaller holes in narrow rims, and a smaller gap needed between the beads with clinchers with narrow rims.
2- they're a simple check valve, which makes them easier to hand pump with a pump of a simpler design. With PV no valves are needed in the pump, it can be pushed on, doesn't have to be locked on to prevent air loss, and there's no air loss when removed, which is a big help with low volume high pressure tires.
Of course dome of this can be worked around, and it's not necessary to use Presta, but that doesn't detract that they're better suited to the purpose.
I suspect that other than gas station convenience, some of the dislike of PV, is that the modern iterations out of the far east lack the quality of the originals, leading to more frequent broken stems, sticking and needing burping, and loss of functionality if the stem is broken. Old timers who've used PV for decades know that we didn't have these problems until production was moved to the far east. PV, is such a simple design to copy, but somehow they managed to blow it.
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26 pitch threads are very uncommon. Not surprised that you can't find it at HD
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steel
Don't ever use Stainless steel unless you spend all of your time traversing swamps. Grade 8 carbon steel has a tensile strength of 150,000psi. 18-8 stainless is 80,000psi; just over half. And, it has a nasty habit of galling. Which is fine if you never want to remove said tire. Ever again. I work in an environment where we have to use stainless. We don't want to. We have to. There are exotics that will work but they're custom made and cost more than your bike. Yes, this is an old post but if I stumbled across it, someone else could.
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Don't ever use Stainless steel unless you spend all of your time traversing swamps. Grade 8 carbon steel has a tensile strength of 150,000psi. 18-8 stainless is 80,000psi; just over half. And, it has a nasty habit of galling. Which is fine if you never want to remove said tire. Ever again. I work in an environment where we have to use stainless. We don't want to. We have to. There are exotics that will work but they're custom made and cost more than your bike. Yes, this is an old post but if I stumbled across it, someone else could.
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I'm still trying to understand why people revive zombie threads just to pointlessly add their 2 cents.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 04-28-24 at 01:45 PM.
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