Moving forward
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Moving forward
Hey everyone, I'm sure with so much time passing everybody would think that the pedal had fallen by the wayside. Not even close! One of the people on this forum had brought up ISO testing that we'd need to go through. We have finally made it through the brutal testing. Below is the copy showing we've gone through it. We had to make 2 changes on the pedal to get through the testing. We had to go up 1 bearing size and change the material in the inner core. But we have finally succeeded. Since we have gotten through the testing just a few days ago we have started all of our ordering of components. Just to let people know how hard it is to come up with a new product and carry it through, we had already ordered the cleats long ago only to find out that the rubber non-slip padding would not adhere to the specific nylon we used. The molder had made a mistake, which unfortunately was at our expense. Anyway we have gotten all the correct materials picked out and they are being re-run as I type this. Anyway I look forward to getting back into this forum and I'll keep people updated of the progress.
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Am I understanding that correctly - basically, the test simulated a 200 lbs rider pedaling for 20 hours? That hardly seems "brutal" - it's about two week's worth of riding for most cyclists.
My current pedals have (and this is admittedly a wild as estimation based on 4,500 miles/yr; factoring speed, cadence, coasting...)... roughly 3,000,000 cycles on the same bearings - with no failures. 1/30th of that - in a lab setting with no dirt, water/rain, etc. - just seems so far from the expected life of a pedal to be a significant data point.
I must be misunderstanding the tests.
My current pedals have (and this is admittedly a wild as estimation based on 4,500 miles/yr; factoring speed, cadence, coasting...)... roughly 3,000,000 cycles on the same bearings - with no failures. 1/30th of that - in a lab setting with no dirt, water/rain, etc. - just seems so far from the expected life of a pedal to be a significant data point.
I must be misunderstanding the tests.
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Good luck, I had to go searching for the previous threads to see what you were talking about. Looks like an interesting product idea.
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A 40cm drop test? So it's maybe less durable than an iPhone screen?
https://www.cnet.com/news/apple-ipho...n-tough-glass/
https://www.cnet.com/news/apple-ipho...n-tough-glass/
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Am I understanding that correctly - basically, the test simulated a 200 lbs rider pedaling for 20 hours? That hardly seems "brutal" - it's about two week's worth of riding for most cyclists.
My current pedals have (and this is admittedly a wild as estimation based on 4,500 miles/yr; factoring speed, cadence, coasting...)... roughly 3,000,000 cycles on the same bearings - with no failures. 1/30th of that - in a lab setting with no dirt, water/rain, etc. - just seems so far from the expected life of a pedal to be a significant data point.
I must be misunderstanding the tests.
My current pedals have (and this is admittedly a wild as estimation based on 4,500 miles/yr; factoring speed, cadence, coasting...)... roughly 3,000,000 cycles on the same bearings - with no failures. 1/30th of that - in a lab setting with no dirt, water/rain, etc. - just seems so far from the expected life of a pedal to be a significant data point.
I must be misunderstanding the tests.
Yes, as the person below stated it means compliant.
A 40cm drop test? So it's maybe less durable than an iPhone screen?
https://www.cnet.com/news/apple-ipho...n-tough-glass/
https://www.cnet.com/news/apple-ipho...n-tough-glass/
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Please lets not get into this, this is not a big sales pitch. A lot of people on here have given me wonderful advice and it has helped us through this journey. The whole pedal was redesigned based on suggestions we got. Have a great day.
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You only got these tested because someone on BF told you it was necessary?
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Good luck with your endeavors. Since Speedplay (aka Wahoo) seems to be bowing out of the market, it can't hurt to have other alternatives. This video though makes me a bit concerned about how it might be too easy to clip out inadvertently. And/or how much upward pull can you put on this pedal (eg. climbing) and stay clipped in?
ie. at about 1'50" in
ie. at about 1'50" in
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Just put ceramic bearings in it and people will be banging your door down.
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Reminds me of these, https://www.bikeradar.com/news/ultra...ed_slideshow=1
in the video they talk about losing crits and races not being able to clip in super fast, Racing in the D1 USA crits, you don't lose anything off the start in the P1/2 races, they actually start pretty slow off the roll then speed up.
in the video they talk about losing crits and races not being able to clip in super fast, Racing in the D1 USA crits, you don't lose anything off the start in the P1/2 races, they actually start pretty slow off the roll then speed up.
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I had been wondering what happened to you guys.
My one worry might be pedalling backwards .... and to some degree, pedalling with my heels down---neither of which are generally how I ride, but both being things I might do at some point during a ride.
If you are really at 190 g for the pair that's not too bad. I assume he cleats cannot be recessed into a shoe? I also assume the cleats mount on a common two-or three-bolt shoe?
Post updates when you have them please.
My one worry might be pedalling backwards .... and to some degree, pedalling with my heels down---neither of which are generally how I ride, but both being things I might do at some point during a ride.
If you are really at 190 g for the pair that's not too bad. I assume he cleats cannot be recessed into a shoe? I also assume the cleats mount on a common two-or three-bolt shoe?
Post updates when you have them please.
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Good luck with your endeavors. Since Speedplay (aka Wahoo) seems to be bowing out of the market, it can't hurt to have other alternatives. This video though makes me a bit concerned about how it might be too easy to clip out inadvertently. And/or how much upward pull can you put on this pedal (eg. climbing) and stay clipped in?
ie. at about 1'50" in
ie. at about 1'50" in
I had been wondering what happened to you guys.
My one worry might be pedalling backwards .... and to some degree, pedalling with my heels down---neither of which are generally how I ride, but both being things I might do at some point during a ride.
If you are really at 190 g for the pair that's not too bad. I assume he cleats cannot be recessed into a shoe? I also assume the cleats mount on a common two-or three-bolt shoe?
Post updates when you have them please.
My one worry might be pedalling backwards .... and to some degree, pedalling with my heels down---neither of which are generally how I ride, but both being things I might do at some point during a ride.
If you are really at 190 g for the pair that's not too bad. I assume he cleats cannot be recessed into a shoe? I also assume the cleats mount on a common two-or three-bolt shoe?
Post updates when you have them please.
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I notice when I pedal backwards---at stoplights to make sure that I am fully in a lower gear, in caser I shifted down at the last minute, and to inch forward at lights or intersections.
Last night I was in a long line of cars at a particularly annoying intersection--I usually won't go that route at certain times of day, but yesterday, I looked at the light, not the clock .... I forgot the clocks moved back ....
My technique is to keep my left foot clipped in and my right on the ground, and as each car moves up, I crank halfway with my left foot, then bring my foot back up---very low force---and maybe do another half stroke if I need to---but I keep the left pedal just past top dead center, ready to thrust, while the other foot keeps me upright.
The way you explain the pressure needed to clip out, this wouldn't be an issue with your pedals.
190 g is pretty good---a bunch of my bikes use Time Xpresso pedals which are really light but hard to find, and really expensive---i use knock-offs because the originals are out of production---but they also have occasional durability issues. 190 g is on par with the Xpressos and better than all the Shimano-style pedals, as far as I recall, (Ultegras run 250 g/pair) and if they are as easy to use and as durable as it looks like they could be ...
One small issue might be the lack of platform---I imagine the cleat plate has to be pretty wide and long to spread the stress.
Anyway----I will be interested to see what these things look like when they finally things come to market. I am not looking forward to buying several sets, but when the Xpressos I have on a few bikes wear out---and the remaining pair or two I have on the shelf do also--I will be looking for a light and reliable option.
Too bad you couldn't have gotten into production before I was forced to retire. Throwing money around was easy then.
Last night I was in a long line of cars at a particularly annoying intersection--I usually won't go that route at certain times of day, but yesterday, I looked at the light, not the clock .... I forgot the clocks moved back ....
My technique is to keep my left foot clipped in and my right on the ground, and as each car moves up, I crank halfway with my left foot, then bring my foot back up---very low force---and maybe do another half stroke if I need to---but I keep the left pedal just past top dead center, ready to thrust, while the other foot keeps me upright.
The way you explain the pressure needed to clip out, this wouldn't be an issue with your pedals.
190 g is pretty good---a bunch of my bikes use Time Xpresso pedals which are really light but hard to find, and really expensive---i use knock-offs because the originals are out of production---but they also have occasional durability issues. 190 g is on par with the Xpressos and better than all the Shimano-style pedals, as far as I recall, (Ultegras run 250 g/pair) and if they are as easy to use and as durable as it looks like they could be ...
One small issue might be the lack of platform---I imagine the cleat plate has to be pretty wide and long to spread the stress.
Anyway----I will be interested to see what these things look like when they finally things come to market. I am not looking forward to buying several sets, but when the Xpressos I have on a few bikes wear out---and the remaining pair or two I have on the shelf do also--I will be looking for a light and reliable option.
Too bad you couldn't have gotten into production before I was forced to retire. Throwing money around was easy then.
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As far as back pedaling I've never thought of trying it that way. I'll give it a shot though as I try to think ahead and get into the gear that I want to be starting back up with. Sometimes I'm off though.
Now as far as keeping your left foot clipped in that would be the traditional way that I would say most people ride. I would say they do this so they don't have to fumble around getting both feet re-clipped. I think that is where our pedal comes into play. With our 360 degree entry we feel that we're the fastest and easiest to engage. So when you pull up to a stop light or something by yourself or in a group ride you can take both feet out to stretch your calves then simply put your left foot back in and as you push off your right pedal comes up which is basically a round shaft and you just push your foot forward in a power stroke fashion and your eyes can go up to look for traffic or the rider in front of you that was struggling to get clipped in haha.
We do feel that we're very secure with these pedals holding you in as they are fully adjustable tension wise.
As far as durability we are planning these pedals to have a lifetime warranty on the inner axle & outer housing. The inner bearings are like any other pedal and meant to wear and we'll be having a replacement bearing package. Put these sealed bearings should last for years and years and years.
As far as the cleat plate you are correct, it is basically the full width of a road bike shoe and it is a glass filled nylon material that is a very good structural component, it also has a rubber nonslip pad all the way across. I do feel that the better the road bike shoe that you buy, meaning stiffer, it would add to the strength of our system. But it does work with any 3 holed road bike shoe.
Once we get everything manufactured and boxed we're planning to send out 75-100 boxes across the country to different people such as yourself, you-tubers and bike clubs. Obviously we'll be pursuing other things at the same time.
Now as far as keeping your left foot clipped in that would be the traditional way that I would say most people ride. I would say they do this so they don't have to fumble around getting both feet re-clipped. I think that is where our pedal comes into play. With our 360 degree entry we feel that we're the fastest and easiest to engage. So when you pull up to a stop light or something by yourself or in a group ride you can take both feet out to stretch your calves then simply put your left foot back in and as you push off your right pedal comes up which is basically a round shaft and you just push your foot forward in a power stroke fashion and your eyes can go up to look for traffic or the rider in front of you that was struggling to get clipped in haha.
We do feel that we're very secure with these pedals holding you in as they are fully adjustable tension wise.
As far as durability we are planning these pedals to have a lifetime warranty on the inner axle & outer housing. The inner bearings are like any other pedal and meant to wear and we'll be having a replacement bearing package. Put these sealed bearings should last for years and years and years.
As far as the cleat plate you are correct, it is basically the full width of a road bike shoe and it is a glass filled nylon material that is a very good structural component, it also has a rubber nonslip pad all the way across. I do feel that the better the road bike shoe that you buy, meaning stiffer, it would add to the strength of our system. But it does work with any 3 holed road bike shoe.
Once we get everything manufactured and boxed we're planning to send out 75-100 boxes across the country to different people such as yourself, you-tubers and bike clubs. Obviously we'll be pursuing other things at the same time.
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Puncture wound risk?
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This has been discussed many, many times and we do not feel that there is any great risk of injury. We have a large 5/8ths of an inch blunt end to help prevent any issues. But riding a bike in any form you could have multiple issues in a wreck, from hitting other objects or other bicycles. Just as it would be so easy for the large chain ring to gash your leg or if you rolled across a fellow cyclist in a wreck. There is always some odd thing that could happen on any given day.
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Congrats on getting this far. I know how tough it really is to get products to market. all the way to market. I would think the triathlon world would be especially interested. Hang tough. Only 10,000 more trolls to pass.
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As far as racing goes I guess there are many avenues to look at. We just tried to come up with a pedal with 360 degrees of entry to make it the fastest and we believe the safest pedal as you do not have to look down nowhere near as long to engage and your eyes can be back up looking at other bikes or if there is traffic.
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Wait whose looking down at their pedals still? HEHE jk... Do you have any data on pressure plates compared to pedals on the market? for example shimano/look use the pedal as the platform where the pressure is used to create power. Speedplay is opposite where the pedal on the bike acts more like the cleat and the pressure comes from the shoe/cleat. is this similar to your product?