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Hex key skewer made by BBB siezed after using blue threadlock

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Old 10-25-23, 08:54 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Because Loctite has become the ketchup of the bike world.
along with carbon paste and Isopropyl Alcohol

/markp
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Old 10-25-23, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Threads don't necessarily need adhesives.
Some threads absolutely adore adhesives, like those used in cheap steel bed frames.

I swear, if the bolts come loose again on this thing, I'm moving on to JB Weld.
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Old 10-25-23, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Some threads absolutely adore adhesives, like those used in cheap steel bed frames.

I swear, if the bolts come loose again on this thing, I'm moving on to JB Weld.
Not a problem for sleeping.
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Old 10-26-23, 11:27 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
WHY is anyone treating threadlocker on a skewer as reasonable?

It's a ridiculous idea.
Because it's advised to check the skewer tightness before every ride.
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Old 10-26-23, 12:20 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by sysrq
Because it's advised to check the skewer tightness before every ride.
I don’t know anyone that does this, nor anyone whose skewer has come out by itself.
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Old 10-26-23, 12:40 PM
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After reading the initial post again, I see that this might be a thru-axle. Skewer's, AFAIK are typically the quick release or cam lock levers we use to use on wheels.

Others of you may have already figured that out. I didn't when I made my earlier reply.

Still, I don't see any need to put thread locker on a thru-axle if the manufacturer of the thru-axle doesn't say to use it. And I don't know of any that do.

Nor would I expect the colors of one brand of thread locker to mean the same thing as the colors of another brand of thread locker. There is no entity that tells them they have to match colors with each other.
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Old 10-26-23, 05:15 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by sysrq
Because it's advised to check the skewer tightness before every ride.
Skewer tightness is a measure of then tension on the skewer rod, not the difficulty of turning the thread. They are different concepts.
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Old 10-26-23, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by choddo
I don’t know anyone that does this, nor anyone whose skewer has come out by itself.
I do it -- in a somewhat related way -- by quickly checking hub adjustment with a wiggle of a raised wheel. Probably not before every ride, but often enough.
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Old 10-26-23, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Skewer tightness is a measure of then tension on the skewer rod, not the difficulty of turning the thread. They are different concepts.
Agreed. Better to check by tucking on the QR skewer lever to see if it could be undone too easily.
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Old 10-27-23, 12:12 AM
  #35  
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20 plus years ago Grant Peterson had an arcticle in a Rivendell Reader about using bee's wax as a threadlocker.
I purchased a little dixie cup of the stuff from Rivendell, I even still have some left.
I use it on stuff like rack bolts then tend to vibrate loose.
In over 20 years of use I've never had a bolt or nut come loose.
It also protects against corrosion.
2 thumbs up.
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Old 10-27-23, 01:08 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Iride01
After reading the initial post again, I see that this might be a thru-axle. Skewer's, AFAIK are typically the quick release or cam lock levers we use to use on wheels.

Others of you may have already figured that out. I didn't when I made my earlier reply.

Still, I don't see any need to put thread locker on a thru-axle if the manufacturer of the thru-axle doesn't say to use it. And I don't know of any that do.

Nor would I expect the colors of one brand of thread locker to mean the same thing as the colors of another brand of thread locker. There is no entity that tells them they have to match colors with each other.
Yeah that last point is important. I guess manufacturers might follow loctite to avoid upsetting customers but it’s a big assumption.

I knew it was a TA but called it a skewer through idiocy. Still don’t know anyone that checks every ride but actually I just remembered I do know of one that worked loose during a ride. Oops.

Last edited by choddo; 10-27-23 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 10-27-23, 01:32 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Because Loctite has become the ketchup of the bike world.
so don't put loctite on my hot dogs... got it.
but is it any good on Fries?

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Old 10-27-23, 03:02 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Crankycrank
A possibility is that the no-name TL is blue but may not be the same strength as the blue from big companies that make quality products and who knows what the chemical composition is?? Note that TL's usually have an expiration date after opening which can be found on the websites from most companies so large quantities may be false economy if not used up in time.
Spot on CC.

Threadlocker, like grease, like anti-seize, like oil has its place. Don’t dismiss it, it is a bloody marvel for the right place. In my opinion the Swiss Army knife of TL is Loctite 243. That is the one you want. Tolerant to light oil coverage. I use it at work, but one day work decided to try a cheaper one, well what a difference. I use it for some grub screws and the cheap version is definitely (or should that be defiantly) stronger, and takes a little warming to start moving. It also flows a little more gloopy. Get the smallest bottle unless you are working on a production line! It can go off. Also look up on line about “fake” bottles, even with close wording, ie two “T’s” in the word Loctite, I have seen many on that on-line auction site advertised. Loctite have patented a bottle design to try and stop fake bottles. Look it up on;

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/au/...%20to%20verify
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Old 10-27-23, 06:45 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by awac
Threadlocker, like grease, like anti-seize, like oil has its place. Don’t dismiss it, it is a bloody marvel for the right place. In my opinion the Swiss Army knife of TL is Loctite 243. That is the one you want. Tolerant to light oil coverage. I use it at work, but one day work decided to try a cheaper one, well what a difference. I use it for some grub screws and the cheap version is definitely (or should that be defiantly) stronger, and takes a little warming to start moving. It also flows a little more gloopy. Get the smallest bottle unless you are working on a production line! It can go off.
I would also suggest looking at the stick versions of the Henkel threadlockers. They are often easier to apply than the liquid versions. On the pneumatic but also hydraulic/plumbing side their thread sealant 545 is a marvel.
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Old 10-27-23, 08:13 AM
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Pretty sure OP is dealing with a hexkey skewer, not some variation of a QR skewer. Hex key, torx key, security hex or torx key, or proprietary key, etc. I have used those as a semi-security device, at least compared to a QR skewer. Thief can't steal my wheel unless they have a hex key, etc with them. (But most keys are available at any hardware supply source. Never once considered using threadlocker with those skewers and never had one come loose. And didn't tighten them excessively. (I used them on front wheels, mostly.)
https://www.amazon.com/wileoone-Lock...248&th=1&psc=1
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Old 10-27-23, 08:36 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by JanMM
Pretty sure OP is dealing with a hexkey skewer, not some variation of a QR skewer. Hex key, torx key, security hex or torx key, or proprietary key, etc.
yes I agree here. Ok, he got it stuck on there with some kind of "sealant" and then the pot metal screw rounded out thanks for the worn out hex key

brings to mind the concept of "tolerance stackinig".

/markp
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Old 10-27-23, 11:30 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by mpetry912
yes I agree here. Ok, he got it stuck on there with some kind of "sealant" and then the pot metal screw rounded out thanks for the worn out hex key

brings to mind the concept of "tolerance stackinig".

/markp
The hex key wasn't rounded. It was just a hex bit from a Cyclo tools torque wrench set.
It was just a combination of shallow bolt head and requirement for high torque. It was impossible to turn the bolt without loud cracking noise.
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Old 10-27-23, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by JanMM
Pretty sure OP is dealing with a hexkey skewer, not some variation of a QR skewer. Hex key, torx key, security hex or torx key, or proprietary key, etc. I have used those as a semi-security device, at least compared to a QR skewer. Thief can't steal my wheel unless they have a hex key, etc with them. (But most keys are available at any hardware supply source. Never once considered using threadlocker with those skewers and never had one come loose. And didn't tighten them excessively. (I used them on front wheels, mostly.)
https://www.amazon.com/wileoone-Lock...248&th=1&psc=1
I tightened them to 7.5 Nm. 8.5 Nm was a rated maximum torque.

Last edited by sysrq; 10-27-23 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 10-27-23, 11:43 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by choddo
Yeah that last point is important. I guess manufacturers might follow loctite to avoid upsetting customers but it’s a big assumption.

I knew it was a TA but called it a skewer through idiocy. Still don’t know anyone that checks every ride but actually I just remembered I do know of one that worked loose during a ride. Oops.
It's wasn't a trough axle. Currently avoiding them due to reports of frequent rounding out of bolts, siezed threads or worn threads in dropouts. At least when using trough axle hammering in hex key deeper as red on mtbrforum won't damage the bearings since all of the shock load is goin trough the axle in to the dropouts only.
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Old 10-27-23, 11:45 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by sysrq
The hex key wasn't rounded. It was just a hex bit from a Cyclo tools torque wrench set.
It was just a combination of shallow bolt head and requirement for high torque. It was impossible to turn the bolt without loud cracking noise.
​​​​​​When you loctite a high torque bolt you removal torque is going to be much, much higher. That's why you use grease - so you can get to proper torque without interference and you can loosen the bolt without over torquing the hardware.
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Old 10-27-23, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sysrq
It's wasn't a trough axle. Currently avoiding them due to reports of frequent rounding out of bolts, siezed threads or worn threads in dropouts. At least when using trough axle hammering in hex key deeper as red on mtbrforum won't damage the bearings since all of the shock load is goin trough the axle in to the dropouts only.
Oh. Never seen a hex keyed bolt for a skewer hence my assumption. I don’t know what you’re reading but I’d stay away from those fearmongers thru-axles are great and in daily use on millions of disk brake bikes.
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Old 10-27-23, 03:25 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 2_i
I would also suggest looking at the stick versions of the Henkel threadlockers. They are often easier to apply than the liquid versions. On the pneumatic but also hydraulic/plumbing side their thread sealant 545 is a marvel.
I have used that in the past on plant hydraulics and 542, I agree with you.

I always found the liquid easier to use on small screws and the stick on bigger threads, but while upside down no contest! Lol.
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Old 10-27-23, 03:38 PM
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If it isn't a thru axel, I'm curious enough now I would like to see pictures.
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Old 10-27-23, 08:59 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by awac
... Also look up on line about “fake” bottles, even with close wording, ie two “T’s” in the word Loctite, I have seen many on that on-line auction site advertised. Loctite have patented a bottle design to try and stop fake bottles.
1. The letter t does appear twice in Loctite; what am I missing?
2. I highly doubt a design patent on the bottle is going to stop a counterfeiter selling fake Loctite. The counterfeiter can easily copy the bottle as well.
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Old 10-27-23, 11:21 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Chuck M
If it isn't a thru axel, I'm curious enough now I would like to see pictures.
This is one common style:

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