Help with understanding chain wear and what I'm doing wrong
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Help with understanding chain wear and what I'm doing wrong
Hi guys, i bought a bike exactly 2 weeks ago today, its brand new, with a sram force groupset.
Its a 1x11 with a MTB cassette ( not sure if this is relevant)
Ive done 10 commutes to work in sunny dry weather and in that time ive degreased and lubed the chain once with finish line dry lube.
Milage on the bike so far must have been close to 100 miles.
My question is, is this worn considering Ive only ridden it for 100miles?
Ive read that for 11spd chains you need to change the chain once it hits .5% wear, according to my chain checker am i almost/already at .5% wear?
Does riding style dictate how fast your chain will wear? Eg intense pedalling?
Ive read somewhere chains last around 2000 miles before people change it.
im also very concious about cross chaining, i mostly use the middle of the cassette and i always let off the pedals when changing gears so that they arent changing under pressure or crunching.
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Use a ruler to measure chain wear. I promise that you haven't put any measurable wear on that chain in a week.
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#3
Newbie
Yep, no wear in a week unless you bathe it in sand first.
Contaminants in the oil grinding the chain's component parts are what cause wear.
Keep that chain clean and lubed (just 1 drop per roller) and it won't wear for thousands of miles.
Edit: here's a chain flushed out with carb cleaner so you can see the crap from the road.
Contaminants in the oil grinding the chain's component parts are what cause wear.
Keep that chain clean and lubed (just 1 drop per roller) and it won't wear for thousands of miles.
Edit: here's a chain flushed out with carb cleaner so you can see the crap from the road.
Last edited by Tawraste666; 06-03-22 at 09:37 AM.
#5
Newbie
Agreed, no need to clean a brand new chain. As for the carb cleaner down the drain, thats my cleaning regime:
250 miles, flush with carb carb cleaner then relube with ACF-50.
Both my chains are on 4000 miles. They look super shiny at all times and have ridiculously minimal wear.
Hooray.
250 miles, flush with carb carb cleaner then relube with ACF-50.
Both my chains are on 4000 miles. They look super shiny at all times and have ridiculously minimal wear.
Hooray.
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I also thought I would look rude if I undermined trailangel as senior member.
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The common Chain checkers only measure between the opposite sides of the two rollers. And that really doesn't matter as much since they'll "float" into place as they engage the cog. Shimano and a few others make a chain checker that measures more accurately to the same side of each roller.
However with my Park chain checker, it's always been close enough and I use it for a quick check, then when it shows the chain wearing to the point yours is, I'll double check with a steel scale or tape and measure to the same side of the pins to see how far beyond 12" they are apart. A 1/16 inch more than 12 inches is almost .5% wear. 12 x 0.005 = 0.06 and 1/16" = 0.0625
I'd expect someone that puts a lot of power into the pedals to wear out the chain faster. Lugging up a hill in high gears using all your leg muscle particularly bad, IMO. Also, if you cross chain in the large front and large rear, that might add more wear.
Regardless, I'd consider anything under 2000 miles as bad chain life. I usually get 4000 or more out of a 11 speed. My older bikes with 5 and 6 speeds would see 8000 miles... but that admittedly is just a guess.
However with my Park chain checker, it's always been close enough and I use it for a quick check, then when it shows the chain wearing to the point yours is, I'll double check with a steel scale or tape and measure to the same side of the pins to see how far beyond 12" they are apart. A 1/16 inch more than 12 inches is almost .5% wear. 12 x 0.005 = 0.06 and 1/16" = 0.0625
Does riding style dictate how fast your chain will wear? Eg intense pedalling?
Regardless, I'd consider anything under 2000 miles as bad chain life. I usually get 4000 or more out of a 11 speed. My older bikes with 5 and 6 speeds would see 8000 miles... but that admittedly is just a guess.
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#11
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Since you have a Quik Link, remove the chain and measure a 3' section. (3X better resolution than measuring 12")
Use that as a reference to calibrate your chain checker.
On my CC, I know if it reads .5% that it's actually still good.
IF it reads .75%, THEN I'll grab the tape measure. I just haven't gotten to that point yet.
So, your CC can be useful for a quick check to prove the chain is good.
To prove it's bad can take a bit more research for your specific CC.
Use that as a reference to calibrate your chain checker.
On my CC, I know if it reads .5% that it's actually still good.
IF it reads .75%, THEN I'll grab the tape measure. I just haven't gotten to that point yet.
So, your CC can be useful for a quick check to prove the chain is good.
To prove it's bad can take a bit more research for your specific CC.
#12
Senior Member
Do not remove the original lube, it is the best your chain will see. It is Fuch from Germany. Get rid of that chain checker it is not accurate. Use a ruler and replace the chain when the measurement. shows 1/16" elongation in 12" of chain.. Park Tool and Pedros make a chain checker that is a copy of the shimano model and eliminates the play in the rollers that screw up the measurement.
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#14
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I'd suggest a good quality steel ruler. Tapes and cheap rulers have wider marks that make it tougher to see small differences. That's fine for building houses or bigger stuff. But in this case you're looking for smaller amounts. That's where a nice steel ruler with fine engraved lines is nice to have. And a good ruler like that has other similarly accurate uses too. So it's not just a specialty bicycle thing.
Here's a low cost but what looks pretty good cheap set of 6 and 12" options. Includes metric too which will be handy since bike stuff is almost wholly metric other than some things like the chains or very old vintage stuff. To be fair though I suspect that these are stamped and not etched. But they look decent in the closeups and are hardened stainless.
Mr. Pen Steel Rulers, 6 inch and 12 inch Metal Rulers, Pack of 2 - - Amazon.com
If you don't mind spending slightly more to ensure top quality this one has it all. Hardened stainless and photo etched and black filled markings. Those features neatly check off the whole list of goodies for a top notch steel machinist's ruler.
Shinwa 12" 300 mm English Metric Rigid (1.250 wide x .040 thick) Zero Glare Satin Chrome Stainless Steel E/M Machinist Engineer Ruler/Rule with Graduations in 1/64, 1/32, mm and .5mm Model H-3412C - - Amazon.com
And when checking the wear with a ruler where there's nothing built in to tension the chain be sure to measure across the upper run of the chain while you hold some tension on the crank arm so the chain is under tension. If you want both hand free use a bungee cord from the rear wheel spokes to the pedal with the crank on the low side to tension the chain up.
Here's a low cost but what looks pretty good cheap set of 6 and 12" options. Includes metric too which will be handy since bike stuff is almost wholly metric other than some things like the chains or very old vintage stuff. To be fair though I suspect that these are stamped and not etched. But they look decent in the closeups and are hardened stainless.
Mr. Pen Steel Rulers, 6 inch and 12 inch Metal Rulers, Pack of 2 - - Amazon.com
If you don't mind spending slightly more to ensure top quality this one has it all. Hardened stainless and photo etched and black filled markings. Those features neatly check off the whole list of goodies for a top notch steel machinist's ruler.
Shinwa 12" 300 mm English Metric Rigid (1.250 wide x .040 thick) Zero Glare Satin Chrome Stainless Steel E/M Machinist Engineer Ruler/Rule with Graduations in 1/64, 1/32, mm and .5mm Model H-3412C - - Amazon.com
And when checking the wear with a ruler where there's nothing built in to tension the chain be sure to measure across the upper run of the chain while you hold some tension on the crank arm so the chain is under tension. If you want both hand free use a bungee cord from the rear wheel spokes to the pedal with the crank on the low side to tension the chain up.
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Agreed, no need to clean a brand new chain. As for the carb cleaner down the drain, thats my cleaning regime:
250 miles, flush with carb carb cleaner then relube with ACF-50.
Both my chains are on 4000 miles. They look super shiny at all times and have ridiculously minimal wear.
Hooray.
250 miles, flush with carb carb cleaner then relube with ACF-50.
Both my chains are on 4000 miles. They look super shiny at all times and have ridiculously minimal wear.
Hooray.
#16
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Apparently the really toxic stuff was all outlawed years ago.
That said, the sink is in a garage where I have a large bucket of sawdust I can put beneath the trap to create a dry residue I can dispose of at the local tip.
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I'd suggest a good quality steel ruler. Tapes and cheap rulers have wider marks that make it tougher to see small differences. That's fine for building houses or bigger stuff. But in this case you're looking for smaller amounts. That's where a nice steel ruler with fine engraved lines is nice to have. And a good ruler like that has other similarly accurate uses too. So it's not just a specialty bicycle thing.
And when checking the wear with a ruler where there's nothing built in to tension the chain be sure to measure across the upper run of the chain while you hold some tension on the crank arm so the chain is under tension. If you want both hand free use a bungee cord from the rear wheel spokes to the pedal with the crank on the low side to tension the chain up.
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Indeed it is. The data sheet states not considered a danger to the environment or to aquatic organisms.
Apparently the really toxic stuff was all outlawed years ago.
That said, the sink is in a garage where I have a large bucket of sawdust I can put beneath the trap to create a dry residue I can dispose of at the local tip.
Apparently the really toxic stuff was all outlawed years ago.
That said, the sink is in a garage where I have a large bucket of sawdust I can put beneath the trap to create a dry residue I can dispose of at the local tip.
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In the past I left it on (other than cleaning the outer surfaces) Nowadays, I've switched over to liquid wax based stuff because it's so much cleaner and we do a lot of loading the bikes in and out of cars and such and got tired of greasy tatoos on skin, clothing and everywhere else. Since we almost exclusively ride in dry conditions, it's working fine. But that factory lube - whatever it is - sure worked well and lasted a long time.
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I'd suggest a good quality steel ruler. ...
...And when checking the wear with a ruler where there's nothing built in to tension the chain be sure to measure across the upper run of the chain while you hold some tension on the crank arm so the chain is under tension. If you want both hand free use a bungee cord from the rear wheel spokes to the pedal with the crank on the low side to tension the chain up.
...And when checking the wear with a ruler where there's nothing built in to tension the chain be sure to measure across the upper run of the chain while you hold some tension on the crank arm so the chain is under tension. If you want both hand free use a bungee cord from the rear wheel spokes to the pedal with the crank on the low side to tension the chain up.
#21
Junior Member
Chain
I use a citrus degreaser concentrate and add water to it and soak my chain in it for an hour or so and lube it once it’s on the bike. Not sure why but I do ride my bike daily and need to lube it weekly! Will look into carb cleaner as the degreaser isn’t good for the environment.
I need to look up this method of using a steel ruler as I was going to buy a tool for chain wear. I have made a mistake of taking off a chain because I thought it had surface rust and it meant that it was worn down!
I need to look up this method of using a steel ruler as I was going to buy a tool for chain wear. I have made a mistake of taking off a chain because I thought it had surface rust and it meant that it was worn down!
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I hang the old chain along side a new chain on my garage door frame. I measure the entire length. Super fast, easy, and accurate.
0.5% of 12 inches is 1/16 of an inch. Not so easy to be accurate.
0.5% of 116 links is a touch over 1/4 of an inch. I measure the difference between the new and old chain at full length. The only problem with this approach is wear isn't always uniform but I replace at 0.4%
0.5% of 12 inches is 1/16 of an inch. Not so easy to be accurate.
0.5% of 116 links is a touch over 1/4 of an inch. I measure the difference between the new and old chain at full length. The only problem with this approach is wear isn't always uniform but I replace at 0.4%
#23
Senior Member
That's a silly notion. You will never put a better lube on your chain than the factory job. Wipe the excess off of the outer parts of the chain and ride. I've ridden as much as 1000 miles before removing, cleaning and lubing a new chain.
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#25
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The common Chain checkers only measure between the opposite sides of the two rollers. And that really doesn't matter as much since they'll "float" into place as they engage the cog. Shimano and a few others make a chain checker that measures more accurately to the same side of each roller.
However with my Park chain checker, it's always been close enough and I use it for a quick check, then when it shows the chain wearing to the point yours is, I'll double check with a steel scale or tape and measure to the same side of the pins to see how far beyond 12" they are apart. A 1/16 inch more than 12 inches is almost .5% wear. 12 x 0.005 = 0.06 and 1/16" = 0.0625
I'd expect someone that puts a lot of power into the pedals to wear out the chain faster. Lugging up a hill in high gears using all your leg muscle particularly bad, IMO. Also, if you cross chain in the large front and large rear, that might add more wear.
Regardless, I'd consider anything under 2000 miles as bad chain life. I usually get 4000 or more out of a 11 speed. My older bikes with 5 and 6 speeds would see 8000 miles... but that admittedly is just a guess.
However with my Park chain checker, it's always been close enough and I use it for a quick check, then when it shows the chain wearing to the point yours is, I'll double check with a steel scale or tape and measure to the same side of the pins to see how far beyond 12" they are apart. A 1/16 inch more than 12 inches is almost .5% wear. 12 x 0.005 = 0.06 and 1/16" = 0.0625
I'd expect someone that puts a lot of power into the pedals to wear out the chain faster. Lugging up a hill in high gears using all your leg muscle particularly bad, IMO. Also, if you cross chain in the large front and large rear, that might add more wear.
Regardless, I'd consider anything under 2000 miles as bad chain life. I usually get 4000 or more out of a 11 speed. My older bikes with 5 and 6 speeds would see 8000 miles... but that admittedly is just a guess.
Chain care, wear and skipping by Jobst Brandt (sheldonbrown.com)