Rick@OCRR

Thanks for the advice and yes, I sent my saddle back to Selle Anatomica to be laced up several years ago. Yes, that did help a lot! They didn't even charge me for it!

Rick / OCRR

europa

The Brooks B17 has worked so well for my family that my son stole one of mine and took it with him when he got married. His wife is riding it now.

Ogsarg

Based on the glowing praises, I just ordered an X2 and can't wait to try it out. I bought my Roubaix used with a Prologo saddle that is good for 20-25 miles and goes downhill from there. when I did my longest ride of 65, about all I could think of the last 10 miles or so was getting off that damn saddle.

I tried a cheap Nashbar seat after that based on some positive feedback and it is worse so I'm hoping this new one will make seat discomfort a thing of the past.

rhm

On the folding bike, which I use to commute from Long Island (mainly a summertime thing), my saddle #100:


The cutout was an experiment. I haven't decided whether it helps or not... but I have not repeated the experiment.

On the touring bike that I used on a short tour last weekend (to see the eclipse), my saddle #3:


On my randonneuring bike, my saddle #85:

GDIAY

I just bought a Brooks B17 looks great but gee its bloody hard

SteelBanana

I had the same thing happen on a Brooks B72, and a Gyes saddle. The problem is not drilling out the rivets getting the broken parts removed. In both our situations, the broken part is called the "cantle." The Brooks parts are available. The problem arises when attempting to properly install the rivets at the correct angle and tension. When done correctly, the rivets must attach the cantle to the leather cover with a certain amount of "clinch" between the rivet head and the cover. All I have at my disposal is a workbench, hammer, and punch. It's doubtful I could have consistently pounded all the rivets with the proper angle and force while balancing the saddle between the workbench and my stomach. If I recall correctly, the leather cover on my B72 needed to be completely removed to replace the cantle.

I sent the B72 to Firth & Wilson Transport Cycles for repair. They did a good job, but the all-up cost of the repair was fully one-half the cost of a new saddle. If the Brooks frame breaks again, the saddle is going in the garbage. The Gyes saddle broke in the same spot a few years ago, and it went straight to the garbage.

Road Fan

Based on the markings on the leather, the saddle is an Ideale, not a Brooks. There is still some value there. Lou b, if you peruse on EBay, you should find used leather tops for Ideale saddles selling without frames.

Or, you can get the original frame welded.

Bustergut

Just bought a Brooks England Imperial B17 Saddle, its not as skinny as my old ones but then they would be daft at my age on returning to cycling. It'll take about 250-300 miles to break in, but they are great after that

Ogsarg

I had my first ride on my new Anatomica X2 yesterday. What a huge improvement in comfort. Did 50 miles and returned with no significant discomfort. With my last saddle, I was starting to get sore at about 20 miles and by 40 it was hard to think about anything but getting off the dang thing.

The only issue I have is that I found the tensioning screw to have zero tension, meaning I can turn it with my fingers on the threads. If I stand in the saddle, it rattles like crazy. The manual says it is supposed to come pre-tensioned and to adjust after 100 miles or so if it loses shape.

xraydog

I have been riding a Rivet Imogene for the past 3 weeks. Deb at Rivet is great to work with. They have a trial policy that allows you to try a saddle(s) for up to about 30days. They also have a 365day return policy.

I'm a Clydesdale (6', 265lbs). From day one it has been as comfortable as my prior saddle (Selle SMP TRK) and is getting better day by day. 2 days ago I finished the Amish Country Bike Tour 100mile ride. Not once during or after the ride did I think about my saddle or butt respectively.

canklecat

The Selle Anatomica X saddles I've test ridden on friends' bikes are very comfy immediately. Kinda tempted.

Also tempted by a reissue Selle Turbo, the leather version. My road bike came with a Terry Georgena saddle that's shaped very much like a classic Selle Turbo, but with a shorter nose, wider rear and it's Lycra fabric over dense foam. Once I got it adjusted right -- height, fore/aft, angle -- it's been comfortable and seems to encourage more aggressive riding, which suits me on the road bike.

But the Lycra/foam got soaked during a recent rain (I usually avoid riding in rain, but this occurred during the final 10 miles of a metric century). It was like sitting in a warm puddle. So the characteristic that makes it comfy in dry conditions -- wicking away moisture without needing padded shorts -- makes it less suitable for wet weather riding.

Best I can tell from descriptions of the reissue Selle Turbo, the shell is actually plastic so the leather is just a cosmetic covering, not the actual support base for the saddle.

taz777

I've got different saddles depending on bike type:

• Electra Townie gets a Brooks England B67 saddle - I find this a big improvement over the stock saddle if you plan on riding for more than 15 minutes. I found that I had a numb backside with the stock saddle so changed it very quickly!
  
• GT Zum S2 hybrid gets the cast-off from my road bike: a Specialized Body Geometry Phenom Comp. This is an upgrade from the stock saddle and the Charge Spoon that were fitted previously. Whilst the charge spoon was very good for the price, it isn't as comfortable as the Phenom on longer rides.
  
• Specialized Roubaix SL4 gets a Selle Italia SLR SuperFlow with Ti rails. This is an upgrade from the Specialized Body Geometry Phenom Comp that was the stock saddle on the bike.

No doubt things will change again in a few months time! The Phenom and Selle Italia are 'fit and forget' saddles, whereas the Brooks B67 needs a tiny bit of maintenance every once or twice a year, and also needs to be protected from heavy rain.

rumrunn6

got a cpl compliments on my Brooks B17 after my 46 mile ride last weekend. I guess it stood out in the bright sunlight

fietsbob

A bike shop with one of the several distributors supplying brooks saddles to bike shops , can get you replacement rails and even a bag of more copper rivets..

the copper rivet is not unique to the making of bike saddles ..

Victorian era Machine shops ran off a long drive shaft, with leather belts connecting the overhead shaft and the lathes, etc.




.....

tony colegrave

If I'm right in assuming that the cost of a new B.72 is something like $120.00 then this very simple repair must have cost at least $60.00, which seems absurd - how much of that was postage costs?

You could probably find a pair of good, used B.72s for $60.00. Or less?

taz777

A bit of my Brooks B67 that's fitted to my Electra Townie, complemented with a BLB saddle bag.

SteelBanana

I bought mine five years ago from a startup LBS, trying to give them a little support. All-up cost, including tax, was $180. The frame rail broke at three years, 4600 miles. Firth and Wilson repaired it for $83, including shipping. Another shop out west quoted me $139 for repair, and I didn't even try Brooks of England due to their terrible service reputation. So yeah, if the B72 rails break again, it's going in the garbage.

mkane77g

Not sure about a full on Brooks so I sprung for this Brooks. I like it.