For the love of English 3 speeds...
#6801
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No, not implying that you sed that at all. Yeah, good stuff. If you have a HF around get one. Works a helluva lot better for a cotter press than a chain breaker IMO - LOL!
#6803
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Pics, as VV requested. I still need to put on the chain, run cables, and do the bar tape.
#6804
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@arex Really nice bike. Could you share some details on the crank and bottom bracket set-up, such as model and size? Did you use the Velo-Orange threadless? Did you do the paint?
Thanks
Thanks
#6805
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Crank pins can sometimes fall right out but sometimes they put up a real fight. I've been able to reuse them even if they were very tight if I pressed them out. If you ever need new ones, 9.5mm is the diameter you need. Most of the time the wedge angle will need some adjustment on a bench grinder or a sharp file to get the right fit. Don't know if the Raleigh cap nuts would fit on the modern pins or not. Never tried them
#6806
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@arex Really nice bike. Could you share some details on the crank and bottom bracket set-up, such as model and size? Did you use the Velo-Orange threadless? Did you do the paint?
Thanks
Thanks
2. The bottom bracket consists of the original Raleigh cups and a used 73mm Shimano spindle with 6mm ball bearings, per Sheldon. Seemed like it'd be a crapshoot whether all the disparate pieces would work together, but it all went together very well, and spins very smooth with no play.
3. The paint is powdercoat. Brilliant metallic green out in the sun, muddy brown indoors...it doesn't photograph well. I was trying to match the original paint, but that didn't really happen. This is the place that did the excellent work: PowderTek, LLC
#6807
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Crank pins can sometimes fall right out but sometimes they put up a real fight. I've been able to reuse them even if they were very tight if I pressed them out. If you ever need new ones, 9.5mm is the diameter you need. Most of the time the wedge angle will need some adjustment on a bench grinder or a sharp file to get the right fit. Don't know if the Raleigh cap nuts would fit on the modern pins or not. Never tried them
#6808
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1. The crank is a 175mm Lasco crank, with a 46T FSA chainring. JIS square taper, supposedly single-speed, but the crank is machined so that you could probably put a second ring on there if you wanted.
2. The bottom bracket consists of the original Raleigh cups and a used 73mm Shimano spindle with 6mm ball bearings, per Sheldon. Seemed like it'd be a crapshoot whether all the disparate pieces would work together, but it all went together very well, and spins very smooth with no play.
3. The paint is powdercoat. Brilliant metallic green out in the sun, muddy brown indoors...it doesn't photograph well. I was trying to match the original paint, but that didn't really happen. This is the place that did the excellent work: PowderTek, LLC
2. The bottom bracket consists of the original Raleigh cups and a used 73mm Shimano spindle with 6mm ball bearings, per Sheldon. Seemed like it'd be a crapshoot whether all the disparate pieces would work together, but it all went together very well, and spins very smooth with no play.
3. The paint is powdercoat. Brilliant metallic green out in the sun, muddy brown indoors...it doesn't photograph well. I was trying to match the original paint, but that didn't really happen. This is the place that did the excellent work: PowderTek, LLC
#6809
Senior Member
I don't think that the threading on any new cotters will match the threads of the "R" nuts. Dollars to doughnuts, as they say, the threads will be some variety of metric (maybe 8mm X 1 or 6mm X 1). The "R" nuts are without doubt some variety of Imperial -- Whitworth or something else. The Bikesmith guy says that they're not available. I think if it were easy, he would be doing it.
If you can figure out what the threads on the original cotters are, you might be able to find a suitable die to reform the threads on the new cotters. Any solution is likely, in my opinion, more trouble than it's worth. I guess it just depends on how much you like trouble (with a capital T and that rhymes with P and you know the rest.)
If you can figure out what the threads on the original cotters are, you might be able to find a suitable die to reform the threads on the new cotters. Any solution is likely, in my opinion, more trouble than it's worth. I guess it just depends on how much you like trouble (with a capital T and that rhymes with P and you know the rest.)
#6811
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#6812
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@arex - I get first dibs if you sell that baby. Not my size, but it sure is fantastic. Giving me interesting ideas.
Last edited by arex; 03-16-15 at 10:09 AM. Reason: add
#6813
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I think someone posted a link a while back for an outfit selling cotter pins in all diameters, lengths, and threads. I think there was an issue expressed, though, about quality or price or something. I could be blowing it out my arse, too.
#6814
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2. The bottom bracket consists of the original Raleigh cups and a used 73mm Shimano spindle with 6mm ball bearings, per Sheldon. Seemed like it'd be a crapshoot whether all the disparate pieces would work together, but it all went together very well, and spins very smooth with no play.
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#6815
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#6816
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Interesting! I never heard of 6mm balls and had to look it up. I also found the page where Sheldon mentioned needing to use them.
#6817
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The bottom bracket consists of the original Raleigh cups and a used 73mm Shimano spindle with 6mm ball bearings, per Sheldon. Seemed like it'd be a crapshoot whether all the disparate pieces would work together, but it all went together very well, and spins very smooth with no play.
#6818
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Thanks for the info, your bike looks really good. Reason I was asking is that I am about ready to rework my Superbe since the recent completion of the Sports. I have wanted to change to more modern cranks but have been reluctant to take a chance on fiddling with spindles and cranksets. I will revisit the Sheldon site. My Sports is powder coated black metallic with clear coat and it looks blue/gray under interior light and does not photograph well outdoors either. In person the metallic looks good. Attached is indoor photo.
Threading/interchangeability Issues for Older Raleigh Bicycles
That's what I was going by...it worked out very well. Adjusting the BB was mildly tricky, but no trickier than any other BB, just a bit of trial and error.
This is what the powdercoat looked like indoors under normal, overhead, incandescent lights:
Last edited by arex; 03-16-15 at 05:38 PM. Reason: add photo
#6819
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Nice bike! Cranks look right at home on the bike.
#6820
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#6822
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@arex - I can't understand why the color changes in different light. Does it have to do with the iridescence?
I saw something similar years ago at my parents' carpet shop...there was a carpet that changed colors, from olive green to eggplant purple, depending on the direction of the lighting in relation to the "grain" of the carpet. It was pretty weird, and led to some complaints.
#6824
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@arex - I can't understand why the color changes in different light. Does it have to do with the iridescence?
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#6825
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