What are these cranks?
02-09-23, 12:16 PM
#4
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Topline, not Grafton.
It's the SL version, somewhat prone to splitting the non-driveside "knuckle" if repeatedly or heavily tightened onto the tapered spindle.
These were rider weight-limited to only 185lbs or so!
Best to torque once, dry, to only 24ft-lbs, using blue LocTite on the bolt threads.
These can fetch big money on Ebay.
It's the SL version, somewhat prone to splitting the non-driveside "knuckle" if repeatedly or heavily tightened onto the tapered spindle.
These were rider weight-limited to only 185lbs or so!
Best to torque once, dry, to only 24ft-lbs, using blue LocTite on the bolt threads.
These can fetch big money on Ebay.
02-09-23, 01:31 PM
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They look very classic C&V but I think they were really from the very late 80's and early 90's. At first I thought they were from the 60's or 70's. The swaged on DS crank arm and the very delicate shaping of the arms make the look like an older than 80's cranksets.Still a good choice for doing a weight weene C&V build, because they are so light; except one will have to live with pedal holes that do not go through the crank arm, so pedals with just a hex socket at the end of their spindles don't work, in terms of tightening them good on to the crank arms. One will need pedals with flats between the pedal and rhe crankarms to do so. There are also no lands in the spider arm ends for an inner chainring. Yes you can still bolt an inner chainring, but it just does not look right without those lands, so technically it is a single chainring crankset.I understand that a lot of MTB riders used this crankset in the 90's to save weight.I have an NOS set of these in my stash for some years now, but haven't quite found the right bike to put them on.....Maybe an American, 80's artisenal frameset similar to my Davidson could work nicely with them?
Last edited by Chombi1; 02-09-23 at 01:34 PM.
02-13-23, 02:18 PM
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