bikingshearer 

The "Schwinn Approved" rear derailleur is a rebadged Shimano Crane GS, a very good RD for its day (although Suntours were a bit better) and still more than adequate today. The "Schwinn Approved" bar-end shifters are rebadged Suntours (and the pods have left-handed threading - turn the allen nut buried in the pod counter-clockwise to loosen the expander so you can remove it). Plenty of folks (me among them) think they are the best purely friction barcons ever made. I am running sets on two bikes and think they are still great. The "Schwinn Approved" brakes are rebadged Weinmanns or Dia-Compes, most likely Weinmanns.

I'm late to this party and only just saw this thread. When I looked at the seat stay cap treatment and saw the serial number, I was 110% certain it was a 1970-something Paramount (the second 7 was not clear on my monitor), even before I read any of the other posts. I'm glad others have confirmed my thoughts (and confirmed the 1977 serial number) so I don't have to question my sanity any more than I already do.

ryanl092

This is the screenshot that I saw from the post


I was surprised.

zukahn1 

To note the Schwinn branded type 2 Suntour barcon's were only offered on Paramounts or limited edition Superiors when this bike was sold so another yes it is vintage Parmount frame.

ryanl092

I found this youtube video after knowing it's a suntour barcon. at 2:49 to 3:09

and then 18:44 to 18:56. It's CW to loose it and CCW to tight it ! Why they don't print it on the shifter itself.

Thanks!

pastorbobnlnh 

Somehow, we are all supposed to magically know when a component is reversed threaded.

You are not alone in running into such challenges and becoming frustrated. Also, don't forget that pedals thread off when moving the wrench towards the rear of the bike. And the freewheel retaining ring/outer bearing race is also reversed threaded.

For the crank bolt cover, as SwimmerMike mentions, soak the threads liberally with penetrating oil before attempting to remove. Wait several days. Applying heat to the cover with a propane torch after soaking the threads might help as well.

oneclick 

It isn't.

When you turn it CW, it goes IN to the bar, loosening the wedges.

(I'll not bother to explain what happens when you turn it the other way.)

oneclick 

No they don't.
You need to think about which way a screw goes through a nut (the nut being the bit that holds the shifter).

I just cut some extra threads on both the shifter-holding-bit and the screws as I had to cut the mounting wedges in half and turn new coned surfaces and spring-clip grooves on a set, so they'd fit in the curved ends of some cutoff drop-bars - and I *KNOW* I don't have a lefthanded 10x1 tap - or die.

pastorbobnlnh 

Thank you for correcting us and this common misperception, based on how we look at the hex wrench as we attempt to remove these barend pods.