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Where do you usually buy your road bike brake cable?

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Where do you usually buy your road bike brake cable?

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Old 09-11-22, 10:53 AM
  #26  
RustyJames 
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eBay for me for basic cables. There are brick and mortar stores selling stuff at great prices. If I want fancier stuff my neighbors at Universal Cycle are great.
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Old 09-11-22, 11:44 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
Physics does not change just because you are on the ground.
You are correct. But the application sure does.
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Old 09-11-22, 12:25 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by miamijim
You are correct. But the application sure does.
I'm curious (and no, this is not meant facetiously, I really do want to know) how the points made in the quoted portion of post # 22 do not apply to bicycle cables.
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Old 09-11-22, 02:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
I'm curious (and no, this is not meant facetiously, I really do want to know) how the points made in the quoted portion of post # 22 do not apply to bicycle cables.
Click the link in post #22 and continue to read past the section quoted. Benefits positives and negatives are mentioned, particularly how the cables are wound.

There are several methods of reducing wear and increasing fatigue resistance in a wire rope. Wear resistance can be increased by changing how the wire stands are wound. In the picture above the individual wires are horizontal (parallel to the axis of the rope). This is called "right regular lay" and is the standard lay. Another method of winding the wire stands is so that they form an angle to the axis of the rope. This is called "lang lay". Lang lay increases fatigue strength and abrasion resistance without any decrease in ultimate strength. Another method of changing the wire characteristics of fatigue strength,. abrasion resistance, and flexibility is to use wires of different diameters. For example, Douglas-Specification DMS2192 calls for a Warrington Seal (IWRC) construction. This type of wire rope has larger wires on the outside and and smaller wires on the inside.

There are other wire rope designs that the engineer can call for to optimize specific performance goals. This is why when we replace wire rope we should make sure that the replacement meets the original manufacturer's specifications.
In bold sums it up. Performance goals of a bicycle cable are different than those of a airplane cable. Bicycle cables are wound and cut in a specific way to reduce friction. Pic below shows how high quality cables are wound, notice the outer wires are not round. That shape was the single biggest advancement in cables. The link clearly sates that SS cables have better corrosion resistance.
  • Stainless steel is more corrosion resistant.
Where do bicycle cables corrode the most and why? Under the BB because that's where water naturally collects. SS>galvanized on a bike.

Last edited by miamijim; 09-11-22 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 09-11-22, 11:06 PM
  #30  
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If you have a long run of housing to the rear brake or rear derailleur, you might benefit from a coated cable. I have just used up my stash of Delta Aztec Duracote cables that I got on clearance from REI years ago. The price on them now is about $5 a pop - too high for liking. You will definitely benefit from good quality lined housing like Jagwire or Shimano. As mentioned earlier, drawn cables have a slicker finish.

I just saw that JensonUSA sells Foundation Brand brake and shifter kits with PTFE coated cables, housing, ferrules, and end caps for $11.99 and $13.50 respectively. Not bad. They also sell Shimano brand zinc shifter cables, 10 for $23. I'd say that's a pretty strong endorsement for zinc cables if Shimano sells them under their brand name.

The problem I see with zinc cables is white zinc oxide corrosion developing on the surface of unprotected sections of cable, which increases friction. A well lubed zinc cable in a sealed housing should be OK,
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Old 09-12-22, 06:43 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
I'm curious (and no, this is not meant facetiously, I really do want to know) how the points made in the quoted portion of post # 22 do not apply to bicycle cables.
Once a young engineer maintaining cables we called wire rope in underground mining skips, smelter aisle cranes, man lifts, etc. I assure you the application as Jim says is paramount.
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Old 09-12-22, 07:12 AM
  #32  
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I finally got tired of scrounging up individual cables and bought a file box of SRAM slick stainless brake cables on sale. I also bought shift cable and shift and brake housing file boxes. Each file box has 100 cables, the housing comes in 30 meter boxes. It wasn’t cheap, but it was worth it to not think about it anymore.
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Old 09-12-22, 07:35 AM
  #33  
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I USUALLY get mine through my not so LBS. I used to wrench there and I still get an employee discount. Because it's a forty minute Ural ride to get there since I moved sticks, the cables are near the bottom of the list when I go to the shop.When I don't have a valid reason to go, it's through Bezos.
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Old 09-12-22, 07:58 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
Physics does not change just because you are on the ground.
My stainless cables purposefully break if my first officer inputs 75% differential steering input on my handlebar in flight.

Wait, what were we talking about?

-Kurt
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Old 09-12-22, 08:19 AM
  #35  
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I bought a bunch of clearance kits/singles from REI when they phased out their Novarra brand, vintage Raleigh double ended when Ben's cycle had a "rummage" sale, a few Bell kits for BSOs somewhere on clearance. I'll buy bulk housing locally for specific colors if needed. I've also bought inner cables locally from their bulk stock as well.
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Old 09-12-22, 08:48 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by miamijim
Bicycle cables are wound and cut in a specific way to reduce friction. Pic below shows how high quality cables are wound, notice the outer wires are not round. That shape was the single biggest advancement in cables.
And guess what? Galvanized cables also come in that type of 'slick' flattened outer strands configuration:
https://jagwire.com/products/inner-w...ake-inner-wire
This is not something unique to Stainless cables

Originally Posted by miamijim
The link clearly sates that SS cables have better corrosion resistance.
And I clearly said early "Unless you have a specific problem with your cables rusting....."
If you ride in a climate where cables rusting is a problem then by all means get stainless. Otherwise galvanized cables is intrinsically better because of the self lubricating properties and because it's not as stiff as stainless.
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Old 09-12-22, 10:13 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee

The bending of a wire rope causes the individual wire stands to not only bend but to rub against one another. <snip> .Every time the wire rope is flexed, the stainless wires rub together. High friction creates high wear.
Bicycle cables are not subject to bending, only tension. (being "pulled" around a cable guide is still tension).
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Old 09-12-22, 10:30 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
And guess what? Galvanized cables also come in that type of 'slick' flattened outer strands configuration:
https://jagwire.com/products/inner-w...ake-inner-wire
This is not something unique to Stainless cables


And I clearly said early "Unless you have a specific problem with your cables rusting....."
If you ride in a climate where cables rusting is a problem then by all means get stainless. Otherwise galvanized cables is intrinsically better because of the self lubricating properties and because it's not as stiff as stainless.

W. Go for it.
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Old 09-12-22, 10:52 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
I tend to go brand name for cable and cable housing, shimano or Jagwire... I am also a stainless fan... If the use is friction shifting then there probably is not much difference...
Me too, but lately I have just gone over to the Walmart for cables on my Franken Builds. For cables Stainless Rules. I also use economical cable housings too. I do, however, spray the inside of the cable housing with Red-N-Redi grease before stuffing in my cables. Learned this from sea water boaters...

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Old 09-12-22, 11:28 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by fliplap
I finally got tired of scrounging up individual cables and bought a file box of SRAM slick stainless brake cables on sale. I also bought shift cable and shift and brake housing file boxes. Each file box has 100 cables, the housing comes in 30 meter boxes. It wasn’t cheap, but it was worth it to not think about it anymore.
I went through the same reasoning and eventually found online a 100pcs Jagwire brake cable box and a 40m Shimano housing. Last check on specs before hitting the payment button, just to find out that the selected Shimano housing was for Mtb and that construction is different from Road housings. Really, they’re not interchangeable? I must be so naive… Doing some quick research on the web, it seems (I’m no engineer and have no knowledge on the matter) that unlike Mtb, Shimano Road housing inner liner needs to be harder to stand the greater force applied on the brake due to the lesser mechanical advantage. Mtbs inner liner, on the opposite, can be smoother and softer. Hence, there are some suggesting not to mix Shimano Mtb housing with Road cable at the risk of slack braking and cable failure. Others say it’s really not a problem to mix them.
Sorry I’m going off topic, that was just to say I’m back to square one with my bulk purchases
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Old 09-12-22, 12:25 PM
  #41  
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I bought Aican cables and compressionless housing through eBay. Pretty much the same as Jagwire.

I would never recommend anything other than compressionless for anyone still running brake cables.
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Old 09-12-22, 05:41 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Reynolds 531
Bicycle cables are not subject to bending, only tension. (being "pulled" around a cable guide is still tension).
They are subject to bending as they move through their travel range. As the cable moves through the bends in the housing, it must bend as well.
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Old 09-13-22, 10:39 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Neese
They are subject to bending as they move through their travel range. As the cable moves through the bends in the housing, it must bend as well.
Last clarification, all in good humour!

Engineering terms for bending

Bicycle cables do NOT have the load applied to the center to create the bend. The cable is under tension (as mentioned) therefore is mutually exclusive to the engineering term of bending as referenced on this page.

All of this is a moot point. The crash of that airplane was caused by a cable rubbing against a cable guide, combined with an inspection and lubrication schedule that was not increased, despite the excessive duty cycles of the elevators.

I will continue to use smooth stainless cables when I have the option, and will sleep like a babe.

Link to references.


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Old 09-13-22, 11:32 AM
  #44  
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Regardless of where the load is applied, the bicycle cable is bent and furthermore it flexes as it bends and unbends in its travel. As it flexes, the strands are rubbing against one another which adds to the friction. With enough rubbing the strands will break.
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Old 09-13-22, 12:03 PM
  #45  
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I only buy Campy and Shimano brake and shifter cables. They cost more but they will last for many years. Not worth trying to save a few dollars on a bike with off brand cables.
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