Ryan_M

I have 1 bike and currently building another, both are hybrids. The one is a Giant roam 1 that literally the only thing remaining from the original bike is the frame. I plan to use this for "touring", basically for rides with the GF where we ride 20km, stop at a brewery or Winery, go another 20km and repeat. Make a day tour of it and I take a trunk bag with me for malty bevies and gear if we want to have a dip along the way. The one I'm building is more for speed, all carbon etc.. We 99% only ride paved, packed dirt, and gravel trails.

I recently built a set of wheels (my first) that was intended for the new bike. I used DT 350 hubs and XR-361 rims with Sapim race spokes. All went together well and I'm happy with the results. I have Conti speedrides on them and they're perfect, planning to use the same on both bikes. So these wheels feel so good that I might just keep them on the Giant frame and build another set for the new bike.

So first question is, the XR-361 worked out great so is there any reason to not use them again? Something else I should consider? Second, I think I might do straight pull spokes for the new set. Everything I've read so far says there's no advantage to straight or j-bend so it's partially about the coolness factor but also something new. Any hidden gotchas why I shouldn't go with straight?

Thanks!

HillRider

You can only use straight pull spokes if the hub is designed to take them and I don't think DTs are. However, do you mean "radial lacing"? Don't do it. There is no advantage for a touring or gravel bike and little for a racing bike and some hub makers won't warranty a hub laced radially.

Ryan_M

No not looking to do radial. This is a straight pull hub, yes? Planning to do 28H 2 cross.

veganbikes

If you are building a touring bike straight pull 28h 2x just doesn't seem like it will be a very reliable wheel for that bike. Plus putting that kind of money towards a Roam is probably a little over the top. Also that particular hub probably won't work not that bike, it looks like those are quick release wheels and non-compatible with thru-axles.

For a touring bike I want generally at least 32h using J-Bend spokes for simple fact if you do break a spoke, most shops will have J-bend spokes. Also make sure everything works on the bike size wise.

dedhed

The one I'm building is more for speed, all carbon etc.. We 99% only ride paved, packed dirt, and gravel trails.So these wheels feel so good that I might just keep them on the Giant frame and build another set for the new bike.

Some of you seem to think he's building a touring bike wheelset for the giant.

Ryan_M

Can we pause the discussion and talk about this? I've come across this a few times now that because a bike was bought in a certain configuration (i.e. the Roam 1) it will never be worthy of any upgrades as you've mentioned. The bike's had a lot of work basically an entirely different bike, some parts went to the GFs bike to upgrade hers etc. So it's a Roam 1 frame that I've kept because it's not bad, looks descent, is fairly durable being aluminum, and I don't mind bolting a trunk bag to it. Beyond that it's got a full M8000 drivetrain, M6000/7000 braking system, carbon fork, handlebars, and seatpost, full DT Swiss wheelset as mentioned above (which BTW are 32H 3x which I think are good enough to handle me @ 86kg and a ~4kg trunk bag), fizik saddle, ergon grips, and a Garmin electronics package. Even though the wheels being discussed aren't for this bike, why do you feel, and why is it the general opinion this bike isn't worth any attention? Becuase one single part happens to be from a Roam 1? I think it's a fairly decent bike. BTW DT hubs do work on this bike. You can get adapters for different axle systems. like the ones that are on this bike right now.

Russ Roth

Its probably fine to work with. Frames, like any other part, come in different qualities, weights, and levels of design. Often a cheaper frame has things going against it that doesn't make upgrades worth while, hence why past a certain price point it isn't just the parts that change but the frame and fork as well. That said, many people don't push the bike to the limits where that makes a lot of difference and there's nothing inherently wrong with upgrading a frame you like. I did the same thing with a frame for 20 years, but enough has changed that I've found it no longer holds the same sentiment it had and doesn't have the characteristics I'm looking for and I've been contemplating getting rid of it. Its you're bike and your money, want it to spend the money on it and have it be better, go for it, without a doubt better wheels and parts will make a cheaper bike a lot better, and you're the one who has to ride it.

veganbikes

The Roam is a lower end bike in the Giant line up. Their high end on that bike is under $900 which is generally what you would buy a entry level hybrid for someone riding a good amount. It is also a whacky bike, not a mountain bike but has a really short travel heavy front suspension that doesn't do enough to justify the weight, give me a carbon fork or a good quality steel fork and some wide tires and cut a bunch of weight and clunkiness.

The parts you put on it are really nice but they don't belong not that bike realistically, the frame is a frame nothing high end, serviceable but not something I would drop 2-4 times the cost of the bike to add major upgrades to. Certainly if it was something special yeah but it is generic cheap aluminum probably out of their factories in China rather than Taiwan.

The ToughRoad with a carbon fork and the wide tires would have been an excellent offering from them but of course they dropped it. Even with the aluminum fork the wide tires helped and it was probably a slightly lighter frame (but never got to compare the two as we never stocked the Roam)