New wheels / hubs with sub-100mm width?
12-05-23, 03:00 PM
#1
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New wheels / hubs with sub-100mm width?
I know 27" wheels are hard to come by already, but is anyone making new wheels with 95/96 mm front hubs? I have a 1977 Schwinn with a front fork I'd rather not stretch (it's all chrome, and it's lugged), and the current hub is pretty shot. I bought a VO wheelset that looks great, but I, like an idiot, didn't even think to measure the old front hub first. Front hub is 95mm, and the VO is a VERY SOLID (no parts to remove / replace to make it smaller) 100. The 126 OLD on te back fits fine.
I could look for a NOS hub and build it into that new rim, but I was wondering if there might be someone like Wheelmaster making front wheels with smaller hubs. No luck so far. Thanks!
I could look for a NOS hub and build it into that new rim, but I was wondering if there might be someone like Wheelmaster making front wheels with smaller hubs. No luck so far. Thanks!
12-05-23, 03:37 PM
#2
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Don't be afraid to spread the dropouts. Get a piece of threaded rod that will fit into the dropouts. Lock the rod into one dropout using two nuts on either side of the dropout. Put a nut on the inside of the other dropout and thread it outward, spreading the fork legs. You will need to spread around 10-20mm over 100 to account for springback, maybe even more considering the stiffness of the Schwinn blades. Go slow and use washers between dropout faces and nuts to disperse the load.
The nice thing about this method is that it applies the exact same force to both blades, as opposed to doing it by hand where that is dependent on the operator's estimation.
I've done this method on a 1972 Schwinn Sports Tourer fork with chrome socks and it was quite easy. And it did not affect the chrome.
The nice thing about this method is that it applies the exact same force to both blades, as opposed to doing it by hand where that is dependent on the operator's estimation.
I've done this method on a 1972 Schwinn Sports Tourer fork with chrome socks and it was quite easy. And it did not affect the chrome.
Last edited by TenGrainBread; 12-05-23 at 03:55 PM.
12-05-23, 03:47 PM
#3
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slightly surprised to read the OEM OLD on a 1977 Schwinn only the 96mm size
Maillard changed from 96mm front and 120mm rear about 1972 to 100mm front and 122mm rear
be thankful no UK product involved here as they had a sort of "standard" for decades of 89mm front
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slightly surprised to read the OEM OLD on a 1977 Schwinn only the 96mm size
Maillard changed from 96mm front and 120mm rear about 1972 to 100mm front and 122mm rear
be thankful no UK product involved here as they had a sort of "standard" for decades of 89mm front
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12-05-23, 03:49 PM
#4
Newbie
I've had the same issue with a 1970 Super Sport front fork and always managed to temporarily pull apart the fork dropouts and get them over a 100mm hub. It takes a bit of practice, but it's definitely do-able. I think with a front fork there's less of an issue with alignment than on the rear...maybe that's incorrect.
12-05-23, 03:58 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Thanks,
I've had my LBS cold set a rear triangle before, but never a fork. In this case, the whole fork is chromed (the whole frame is, actually), so I was worried about the chrome at the top of the fork cracking, as well as the potential damage that might occur to 45 year-old brazing on the fork crown lugs. No worries there?
I've had my LBS cold set a rear triangle before, but never a fork. In this case, the whole fork is chromed (the whole frame is, actually), so I was worried about the chrome at the top of the fork cracking, as well as the potential damage that might occur to 45 year-old brazing on the fork crown lugs. No worries there?
Don't be afraid to spread the dropouts. Get a piece of threaded rod that will fit into the dropouts. Lock the rod into one dropout using two nuts on either side of the dropout. Put a nut on the inside of the other dropout and thread it outward, spreading the fork legs. You will need to spread around 10-20mm over 100 to account for springback, maybe even more considering the stiffness of the Schwinn blades. Go slow and use washers between dropout faces and nuts to disperse the load.
The nice thing about this method is that it applies the exact same force to both blades, as opposed to doing it by hand where that is dependent on the operator's estimation.
I've done this method on a 1972 Schwinn Sports Tourer fork with chrome socks and it was quite easy. And it did not affect the chrome.
The nice thing about this method is that it applies the exact same force to both blades, as opposed to doing it by hand where that is dependent on the operator's estimation.
I've done this method on a 1972 Schwinn Sports Tourer fork with chrome socks and it was quite easy. And it did not affect the chrome.
12-05-23, 05:23 PM
#6
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I personally wouldn't be worried but can't guarantee anything. Maybe you could look for a donor Maillard hub off of a different Schwinn if you want to avoid spreading?
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12-05-23, 05:46 PM
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Also wondering if said fork has a .833 steerer instead of 1". If so, I'd use another standard fork and tuck that one away for posterity.
12-06-23, 03:34 PM
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Atom made aluminum shell hubs that are 95mm. You can find used ones easily that are in great condition. Early Shimano, ditto. There are also some great, if steel, hubs that are 95mm and you can often find them N.O.S. My Grubb has a steel Bayliss-Wiley on the front that I found N.O.S. Don't alter your fork. Just get the right hub. My Manufrance also has the 95mm fork end spacing. It has got a Sturmey/Archer 91mm sports hub (with a couple spacers) in it and it works great.
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Last edited by 1989Pre; 12-06-23 at 03:38 PM.
