cormacf

Howdy.

Currently riding a Lynskey Sportive, set up in a not-at-all aero fashion. Roadeo Spork, Tubus Airy rack on the back, stack o' spacers, etc. The only thing mildly "fast" seeming about the bike is the Reynolds Black Label 46 Aero DB wheels, which I really only got because I wanted to go tubeless (plus, they look cool).

Going to be doing my first couple of tris next year, and since I'm 52 and will never be top 50% for my age group (trust me on that--I live in San Diego, and these people are SERIOUS), I thought "Why not just use this as an excuse to get a new, racier bike and turn the Lynskey into the dynamo-lit rando bike it wants to be en route to PBP 2027?"

I'm currently looking at a BMC Teammachine ALR One with 12-speed Rival eTap. It seems fun, more aerodynamic than my current bike, and like a nice, different experience--and I'm fine with an AL frame. BUT the geometry doesn't seem all that different (comparison here).

The bike has shaped tubes instead of round, a much narrower fork, and the geo differences listed above. Assuming I go a little more aggressive on my riding position, will this bike feel noticeably different?

datlas 

It will be more responsive and “fun” to ride, but unlikely to be much faster.

cormacf

Oh, I'm only gonna get so much faster from anything. I'm cool with that. As long as I can be all "You're my feel-fast bike and you're my comfy ride all night bike," I'm good.

seypat

If you set it up like a tri bike, it'll feel different. That could be good, or bad.

TiHabanero

Unless you go well into an aerodynamic body position, it makes little sense to get a 'race' bike as the payout will be little more than what you already have. For your first year of tri competition, use your existing bike, learn what you can from the training and events, then if still interested in "racing", then jump into a dedicated "race" bike. I am suggesting a tri specific bike because outside of that body position it makes no sense to get a bike like one you already have.
I use quotes around the term "race" because in my mind if one does not race to win in an individual sport, one is not racing. My bias after racing to win and never winning. They became events to finish rather than win. Not much of a race from my perspective.

wheelreason

The bike will be fine, the rider not so much. It takes time to adapt to a more agressive riding position, and if you are just going to get the fit close to your current set up, there really is no point (besides just wanting to).

StanSeven

Having done tri’s and rather seriously, I completely agree with all the comments above. If you want a new bike, get it. If nothing else, it will be motivational and fun. Later if you still are interested in tri’s, you can convert it and make it more aero. A really solid aero position takes time to train and get used to it. Just enjoy your first experience with either bike for now.

eduskator

It depends. Will your body feel the difference or will your stats feel the difference?

I'd say both, but it won't be a huge difference. Cycling is all about the little details, right?

Trakhak

If you do go the tri-bike route, take a look at the positions currently being used by the Elite riders in, e.g., Tour time trial stages.

For the most part, the new setups put the riders higher in front than in recent years, when a very low, flat-backed position was sought after. Apparently that very low position was aerodynamically slippery but prevented riders from putting out as much power as they were capable of. So now the idea is to find the compromise between maximum aerodynamic efficiency and maximum power generation.

That higher position likely makes for safer handling, too, which is something to think about if you're going to be training on the bike out on the road, among cars and other bike riders.

10 Wheels

Get the BMC. I did at 70. They are fun to ride.

10 Wheels

Ended up with Two BMC's
Bought the White one First just to Ride on The Indy 500 Track.

Kai Winters

While it may feel 'faster, snappier, etc.' it will only go as fast as the rider pushing the pedals...better off with a proper fit, good aero position, etc. But hey buy what you want, it's not my money and there are plenty of people driving Ferrari's that seldom exceed the speed limit.

eduskator

Totally agree on the ''get a proper fit'' thing, but but but but but the rider pushing the pedals is influenced by how the bike feels and by how he feels, mentally speaking. It's a combination of things that makes the whole experience enjoyable.

auggiedawg

Hard disagree. The BMC will set PR's every time its taken out.

cyclezen

Faster? Maybe, very possibly, dependent on rider...
Aside from your own capabilities and mindset (which ARE strong determinant factors), the two most important things are 'Aero position/posture and wheels.
You have the Wheels - Reynolds 46 Aero DB, make sure you use good tires
Your posture/position a huge factor... It makes a big difference in all stages of going from 'Upright-ish' road riding you see most riders assume to the best aero posture used by skilled TT riders. Here's a link which clearly shows the improvements at various postures along this posture spectrum - see the 'Positions' comparison.
https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/uci-roa...n-aerodynamics
not surprisingly, riding 'Aero Hoods' is very significantly better/effective aero position, than riding on the drops with straight arms.
Aero Hoods is a great posture to shoot for as the most used position... If you can do that, you will become 'faster'.
'On Road', the difference for me is significant. If I'm riding an 'On Hoods - more upright (not as high as most others I see) with slightly bent elbows/arms at steady 18 mph - if I assume an 'Aero Hoods' posture with a mostly heads-up constant sight of whats ahead; I will be riding at over 19 mph steady. All at the same effort level.

Personally, I would go with a 'road' dedicated bike - like the BMC. But if I was coughing up the dollars for a SRAM Rival 12 spd etap, I would do everything to afford the carbon version.
ALU is great, nice, much better than it was many years back - but still a good step below CF; both in performance and comfort.
And if you're gonna do Tri/TT, then get some aero clipons.
Ride On
Yuri

Iride01 

If you've been riding in a non-aero position and continue to ride in a non-aero position on the BMC, you probably won't be much faster. If your normal cruising speed on the flats are greater than 18 mph, you should get lower and notice how much less power it takes to pedal and maintain your speed.

So you can be faster with your current bike too. You just have to want to bad enough. Coincidentally 52 years of age is about the time I wanted to start getting more aero. For some of us, it takes some work and determination to stay aero and use the drops often.

RChung

Will you notice the difference? Possibly, but probably not. The difference in geometries is pretty small so if you were in exactly the same position the difference would only be due to the frame tubes. If you were to add aerobars on one, your position would change and you'd be faster but most likely since the geometries are so similar you'd have been able to add aerobars on the other. Tri/TT bikes have a geometry optimized for aerobars but if you're not yet sure how serious you are about Tri, a cheaper alternative is to get some clip-on aerobars for your Lynskey and try them out for a couple of races. Then you can decide based on that. But if you have the money to spend and room in your garage for another bike, why not?

blacknbluebikes 

what else are you saving it for? <grin>

surak

The shorter wheelbase and much shorter chainstays will make that BMC feel a lot different from your Lynskey. Whether that's worth putting money towards vs. adapting your existing bike setup, including position, I don't know. There are a lot of changes to be made that can make you feel faster other than swapping to a frame with almost the same neutral stack:reach.

Also, feeling fast isn't the same as being fast, or even being enjoyable to ride over distances where comfort/fatigue resistance can be a much larger factor.

t2p

to compete in triathlon at a high level you need to be able to train at a high level for long periods ... healthy/ injury free

a bike that fits well and suits the rider is significant ; a more aero or lightweight bike will not provide long term gains if the rider is not able to log the time and miles to improve

DangerousDanR

Following a rather serious injury which I was told by the surgeon who put Humpty Dumpty back together again that it would take a year to be pain free, I bought myself a present: a Time Scylon. I believe that it is in the same category as a BMC Team Machine; an aero road bike. But it is carbon, so even my XL is around 17 pounds. I also equipped my Scylon with deeper section wheels.

With the Scylon I am an easy 1 or 2 MPH faster this year on routes that I have ridden for several years. If I hadn't had the injury I don't doubt that the speed gain would be a bit greater. But not 5 MPH. So I am not a great deal faster, but I am able to ride with the same group as I did before my injury. For me that was worth the price.

With that said, I traded part of a profit sharing bonus check for the Scylon. I am still putting money into my retirement accounts. My family isn't going to miss any meals, no wearing old clothes, property taxes paid on time, Still driving a nice car, etc. Mrs. Dan asked me what we would be giving up if I bought it, and the answer was a little less retirement savings. So she said quit worrying and get the thing.

bblair

I also ride a Lynskey and recently got a new set of CF wheels. I am not a racer, but like to at least feel llike I am. Not sure if the other riders heard it yesterday, but Phil Liggett and Bob Roll were announcing my ride. In my head, anyway.

Like Mrs. Dan said above......

noimagination

I don't know that much about "aero", just what I've read from casual interest in bikes and riding in general. What I've read is that the rider is by far the largest part of the bike/rider system contributing to drag. So, if you want to get more aero, working on positioning will have the greatest impact, and a more aero bike will have much less impact. If you get the new bike and change to a more aero position, any change in speed is mostly due to your change in position, not the bike.

If you intend to do different types of riding - casual/touring/randonneuring/etc., where long-distance comfort trumps absolute speed for you; vs. more speed and I'll-deal-with-some-discomfort-for-the-sake-of-speed - then it makes sense to have different bikes set up with different types of rides in mind.

PeteHski

That’s a huge gain. For me that’s the difference between my lowest and peak performance. That could well be the equivalent of months of dedicated training.

1 mph sounds trivial until you realise that you are a full mile down the road after each passing hour. That doesn’t matter if you are not racing, but it certainly does if you are! My event rides are typically in the 5-8 hour range, so +1 mph average would make a huge difference to my times and smash all my PRs. +2 mph average would be epic!

bblair

I don't get the answers suggesting the OP instead change his positioning, loose weight or train harder. Ok, say he does those things. He can do that with or without new wheels. But also consider if he does all of that, he will be even faster with more aero wheels.

I can also ride with downtube shifters, toe clips and wool shorts. But I don't want to.