frantik

I got this Trek 610 today for $100 after some tense moments on CL..

Seller's pic.. poor thing just lying on the ground after its wheels got stolen.. seller just moved to the bay area from Kansas and hadn't learned about locking up their bike yet


Got her home..


before..


After! took a few hours but got her looking nice







(tiny white spots are is car wax that oversprayed)


Shimano 600 derailers, shifters, brake levers and calipers, crankset, even the pedals are shimano 600. shame the wheelset was stolen, though i wouldn't have gotten the bike at all if they handn't. I'm planning on using the 600 grouppo to replace the RSX grouppo on my GT Force

anybody want to guess a year on the frame? how much is just the frame (including fork and headset but not BB) worth do you think? the frame is so nice.. super light and well balanced. wish it was my size! serial # 124109

shorthanded

THAT is gonna build up nice. it's really a shame it's so battered thought ... poor thing.

looks like an '84.

jstewse

Great find! According to the serial number, it's a 19" 1984 610 catalog seen here https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...Trek2Sport.pdf

frantik

^ cool thanks.. from the catalog it looks like it didn't come with shimano 600 branded hubs.. so i do have all of the 600 branded stuff from the bike.. sweet

the bolt holding the downtube shifters on is being stubborn.. i might be able to turn it with a big screwdriver (which i dont have right now) or else it's hacksaw time.. not very appealing to get near the bike with blades though. also the pedals are stuck on the cranks pretty well.. never had such stubbon pedals before. shouldn't matter since i will use them anyways. at least the seat post and stem were both very easy to remove

Road Fan

I bought one of those new, and still have it. It's morphed into several types of bikes, and now it's in the middle of becoming a faux Boxdog Pelican, with the construction of a long-rake fork.

The original wheels, which I sold long ago, were Maillard Helicomatic (I think the hubs were a lower Maillard grade) with Matrix 27 inch clincher hubs. I've used several different sizes (tubular, Mavic MA-40, and CR-18) of 700c rims on it since then, all with the original Shimano 600 brake calipers. Now I'll need to go to Mavic centerpulls to accommodate the longer-rake and longer bladed fork. It's long been equipped with a Campy Centaur BB and crank, again a perfect fit. Ultimately it'll get spread to 130 and get indexed shifting, but not for a year or so.

I wouldn't guess on the worth, but I'm totally certain it's a 1984 model.

Beware of overtightening the seat post clamp screw. It's a weak point in the design - the hourglass eyelets weren't all brazed on strongly.

frantik

so this got moved into appraisals.. i am definitely interested to know the value of the frame but that wasn't really the reason i started the thread as much as just to talk bout the bike

auchencrow

+1
I think this may have been moved in error. Nothing here is asking for a valuation.

frantik

I did ask near the bottom of my 1st post if people had an idea of the frame price but it wasn't the primary focus of the thread.. mostly wanted to share some pics after a couple hours of inhaling grease and rubbing alcohol fumes while cleaning

CbadRider

Moved back to C&V main forum.

frantik

^ thnk you kind sir or madame

Walter

Mention the "V" or "W" words anywhere in the post and it will be reported within minutes w/o fail. That is as reliable and consistent as the tides. Given that the posts usually get moved.

Just say'n.

frantik

what's wrong with volkswagens?

juls

You could post it over in 'the frame dosen't fit...' thread. What size do you ride? I find small frames quite pricey (maybe because that is what I ride.

frantik

i ride +/- 58, though i have a bike i want to put the parts on already

i was wondering, does anybody know if the band holding on the downtube shifters isn't supposed to come off.. i was looking at it and even if i managed to unscrew it, it seems like there is no way to remove it without bending it and scratching up the paint. that might be the one hurdle to putting the parts on my other bike, since the other bike has places to mount cable guides for brifters.. i've been kinda assuming i could mount downtube shifters there too.. maybe i will need to get the mounting hardware from some other kind and use the 600 levers.. not much difference mechanically between the different downtube shifters i assume

juls

Can't see them very well....maybe like the cyclone clamp on's; removing the levers releases a hook inside. Step away from the hacksaw! (LOL)

hueyhoolihan

clampon downtube shifters, in my experience, are designed with soft metal in the clamp to facilitate mounting over the downtube.

BTW, i'm looking for that type of clampon downtube shifter for a project i'm working on. i'd be interested in them. maybe a better pic? if that's not asking too much...

thanks,

huey

Road Fan

There's a nut and bolt on the underside of the down tube, holding the shift lever band tightly in place on the frame. If you undo them (after releasing cable tension) and start to gently wiggle the shifters, that whole subassembly will become loose. If you then pull the band open, bending it, the shifter set will come off. This type of shifter mounting has history back to the '50s if not before. But it is intended to come off and go back on - if you were going to repaint the frame, you'd need it to be off. It is possible to scratch the paint, but it's also possible there is rust under it. Just proceed gently.

Road Fan

There are loads of friction shifter sets on Ebay, but not all as nice in the hand as these 600s.

frantik

ok that is great news.. it's got a shimano logo on it so i dont want to have to lose it

that means i need a big old flat heat screw driver and a lot of luck

frantik

well the big screwdriver didn't work :\ it the bolt moved 2 times, squeaking really bad. then the bolt stripped more.. at least it looks like the metal is soft so hopefully a hacksaw will take care of it.. might take it to the LBS and see if they have any tricks

rothenfield1

Maybe I haven't read every word of this post (pretty standard for me), but why is the OP trying to remove the DT shifter clamp again? It looks like your bike is cleaning up nicely. Stubborn bolts and stuff seems to be the norm when restoring old bikes. If soaking it in WD-40 for a couple of days doesn't loosen it, at least wedge a piece of wood or plastic or something between the bolt and frame before hacksawing it. Otherwise I fear that last saw cut will leave a nasty mark on the frame.

toytech

That would take more bandwidth than I care to think about! nice bike.

frantik

i'm stripping the gruppo from the frame since my plans are to put the shimano 600 on another bike and sell/trade the frame (it's way too small for me)

i managed to hacksaw the bolt in half without damaging the paint.. put painters tape on the edges of the hacksaw and all over the bike. then went very very very slowly. put painters tape where i pulled the clamp off the frame too and it didn't scratch it

did destroy the bolt of course and the not sure it i'll be able to get the rest of the bolt out of the other fastener nut... we'll see

need to get a lockring tool tomorrow at the lbs to pull the BB and then i'll be done stripping it. the frame is so nice i hate to get rid of it.. kinda like just looking at it lol would put it on my wall if I didnt need the $.. i only bought the bike for the parts with the intent of reselling the frame to make my $ back. tempted to try to trade for something made of 531 in my size but i should really sell it

auchencrow

In the future, try PB Blaster to loosen stuck/rusted threaded components, or stuck stems/posts. A little time and an occasional tap with a hammer usually will let it penetrate and remove many parts non-destructively.

If your pedals are stuck in the alloy crank arms, you can usually use a torch to heat the crank good and hot to free them if the usual methods fail. ( I wish it were so with alloy seat posts but the reason why it works well for pedals is that the aluminum hole expands faster than the steel shaft. )

frantik

i used a lot of "liquid wrench" on the bolt.. didnt try the hammer to help it penetrate though. i think the main reason it was so hard to turn was because there was a lot of tension.. as soon as i cut the bolt part of it flew out

trust me i didnt want to hacksaw the bolt off at all, but especially once it started to get stripped, it was gonna have to be replaced anyways. im just glad the bolt was so soft.. it wasnt very hard to cut thru