RH Clark

It's a 1986 model 560 with a square taper BB and Shimano 600 cranks. All I know is that the crank puller I purchased at the Trek dealership won't fit. The one I have is a Unior brand and it says taper crank puller on the shop sticker. If someone could give me the Park Tool part number that I need or a link to purchase I would be grateful. It's rough and I am going to service it or install a sealed cartridge unit if necessary. I plan to purchase new bearings so any suggestion on that would be appreciated as well. Right now the plan is to get the right size and order bearings from Amazon. I would use the old bearing holder ring.

Bill Kapaun

Bearings should be 1/4".
11 per side if you don't use the retainers. Most of us don't, since grease will hold the bearings in place for reassembly.
Some retainers will reduce the ball count to 7 (cheap bikes typically)

I would think the puller should work.
1. Is the center "plug" of the tool screwed out far enough? Make sure it has PLENTY of clearance when screwing in the tool.
2. Is the leading thread deformed on either the crank or tool.

You might want to buy a bag of 3/16" for front hubs? when you buy the bag of 1/4".
Rear axle will typically use NINE 1/4" per side.

kcjc

Park Tool CCP-22 or CWP-7. Mine CCP-22 version from the late 80s didn't have the plastic spacer(?), but the newer version should work just fine. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...-cranks-ccp-22. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...d-cranks-cwp-7. What did you buy? A quick look at their website returns 3 types, and all should work: Square Taper Crank Puller - 1662/4, Crank Puller for Splined and Square Taper - 1661/4, and Square Taper & Splined Crank Puller w/Handle - 1661.3/4P-US. It should be a BSA bottom bracket shell. If you are reusing the spindle and cups, your choices might be limited and I would elect for loose bearings. Here's the cartridge replacement for later vintage, https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...m=119&AbsPos=1.

Camilo

Well, since you're a Trek Store customer, why not just return the wrong one they sold you and buy the right one? Why did they sell you the wrong one in the first place.

I'm wondering if you don't have the right "head" on the puller? Mine comes with a couple of different ones for different fittings. Does yours not have a couple of options?



FWIW, the tool needed has nothing to do with it being a Trek - it has to do with the type of crank (Shimano 600 square taper), so that would maybe be a better subject title.

RH Clark

I have the
Art. 1662/4
I got it started but it was getting tight and bad feeling in less than one revolution. Like maybe just a half. I may have some slightly buggered threads. I thought it had a nice aluminum dust cover, but it was a precisely cut piece of an aluminum can, like the bottom of a beer can. It has an exp date on the bottom side.

Anyway, it popped right off when I applied a box cutter point. I don't think there's any major damage to the threads. I might have to look closer with a light and magnifying glass but nothing obvious to a guy who wears +2 reading glasses to see how to work on it. I just wanted to make sure before proceeding since it wanted to get finger tight so fast. I would have felt comfortable if I could have got it started with a full revolution, but I didn't want to force something and cross thread it with the wrong tool. I assume those Shimano crank threads are pretty soft.

kcjc

If memory serves, most of the threads on my park tool are engaged with the crank arm, so I'm assuming the same is true with the Unior. You should tighten it by hand until it will not engage anymore. I normally get it slightly tighter with a wrench but don't overdo it because you have to back the tool out. If it hasn't been worked on for a while, you might have to "clean" the thread out with the tool. You did remove the bolt and washer first, right?

choddo

You were right to be cautious at half a turn. It should go a lot further with ease with the extraction pin backed out.

Bill Kapaun

Turn it slowly with caution.
If it's an "odd" threading, it should tighten up quickly. Don't force.
A malformed thread will tend to resist the same for a turn or 2 and then might even seem to ease up.

If I have an issue such as yours, I usually screw the center section of the puller completely out, get the body snugged up and then reinstall the "pusher".

RH Clark

I managed to remove the non-drive side with the crank puller I have, so the threads on the drive side are the problem. I can't seem to get them to start straight. At any point where the tool will take hold it's obviously at an angle when you turn the crank and will cross the threads even more if I tighten it. Can I tap it off with a wood block from the opposite side or what other method?

andrewclaus

I can often clean lightly gunked threads with a sharp utility knife. Start at the second full revolution in and run the blade counterclockwise out of the hole, lightly at first. The steel blade will cut a good enough thread in the aluminum.

Another option is to make a thread chaser with the body of a broken crank puller--cut two notches into the threads 90 degrees apart. It's a crappy die, but it often works.

If all else fails, use an automotive ball joint separator, a "pickle fork." It might run the crank or dent the BB shell, so it's a last resort. There are also machined wedge sets that have been shown in other threads on the subject.

Good luck with it. I rebuilt an '83 520 a couple years ago and I love it.

RH Clark

Success! I finally got the tool to thread onto the drive side. Both cranks are off now. I will wait until my tools arrive to remove the rest. Ordering the Park HCW-5 Lock ring hook tool, The SPA-1 pin spanner, and the Park HCW-4 Fixed cup tool. I suppose I am getting some 1/4 and 3/16 bearings as well. This one sounds rough. I hope I can rebuild without installing a sealed cartridge unit.

I appreciate all the help. I've rode this bike enough with the bad bb to know it fits me possibly better than my other bikes. I have converted it to 9 speed using the existing DT friction shifters , some Bontrager Race Lite wheels I had in the closet and a Shimano STX derailleur that was in the parts bin. That derailleur is a mystery because I can't figure out where it came from.