jerrymcdougal

So I picked up some nice Dura-Ace skewers for cheap, however, there two rears.

Can I shorten one of them to use as a front? The reason I ask is they arent like normal skewers, they have a lip before the threads on the rod thats of greater diameter than the threaded section. I think this may pose a problem when I try to run the die over it to cut more threads.

Heres some pics:



Could I run a die for the greater dia. over it, and then a die for the smaller dia. after the first to cut down some of the material? I think if I just use the smaller die, I will break it when I reach that lip. (in red circle).

Any thoughts, advice, or techniques you may have?

Thanks!

dck

An easier way is to disassemble it and replace only the skewer. Most of these are interchangeable. Doesn't even need to be Dura-Ace

HillRider

Dura Ace rear skewers should be intended for 130 mm dropouts, not 135.

If the nut won't already turn down enough to fit the front dropouts I wouldn't do anything to extend the threading given the skewer's configuration. A broken front wheel skewer is a real bad thing to have happen and I'd be concerned that threading over the diameter difference would create a weak spot. Get the proper length skewer and sell the extra.

operator

Please don't do what you are planning to do. If you're really short of cash i'll send you a front QR, gratis.

jerrymcdougal

Well, its not that Im super short on cash, and I do have an extra generic brand front QR. I just want a DA front skewer. The generic one is so crappy its just about as good as nothing.

If anyone wants to trade a rear DA for a front DA I would be more than happy to. They are NOS, so in great condition.

Oh, and Oops, they are 130mm don't know what I was thinking.

Thanks for the help/advice guys!

-Jerry

operator

A QR is a QR but I do understand the need for DA stamped on a component.

BikingGrad80

Absolutely, If you show up for a race or group ride with a skewer that says tiagra or forte you would be a laughing stock . Might as well have shown up on a GMC Denali.

jerrymcdougal

Well, its not a NEED. The one thats on there now works ok, but its part plastic and made really crappily. The only thing it says anywhere is "open" and "close". So Tiagra or Forte would even be a step up from this junk.

Plus, I'm trying to build this bike up with mostly vintage DA parts. Thats the main reason. Its an 86' Davidson Impulse. I think it deserves a DA skewer. No?

Has anyone ever shortened a skewer successfully?

-Jerry

operator

I wasn't actually being sarcastic for once

jerrymcdougal

Oh, I sensed that. No worries. I was just explaining I have a reason to be a bit vain about wanting the DA stuff. So it all matches. haha.

BikingGrad80

Sorry for mocking your skewer vanity. Some skewers you can get the tab off by unscrewing a nut, but from the photo doesn't look like this one is one of them. Besides I wouldn't recommend messing with a skewer anyways, just too vital a part for what it cost. My best suggestion is either post a craigslist saying you want to trade or buy a new DA front and ebay the rear.

HillRider

I've shortened 135 mm skewers to 130 and 130 to 126 but I didn't have to extend the threads as there were enough to begin with. All I did was screw the nut on far enough and cut off the protruding part of the threaded rod for safety.

DDYTDY

I think skewer threads are rolled (formed) and not cut. Thread rolling is similar to knurling. Forming the metal
makes a much stronger thread then cutting.

biker128pedal

+1. Don't cut it.

jerrymcdougal

Allright, you got me. I wont cut it. Does anyone have an extra front? (Ill post it in the for trade as well)

vpiuva

Does this mean if I start a thread about needing a front flat lever Campy Record skewer one will appear?

HillRider

Yes, but not necessarily at your place.

jerrymcdougal

Wow, a little creepy! I just (yesterday) traded some flat lever and curved lever Record skewers to a friend!

Stacey

I have a front and rear. You want them?

MnHPVA Guy

1st off, I'm not recommending shortening any skewers. A failure could be costly or even fatal.

But, to answer your question, I have done it several times. The 1st couple I cut a section out of the middle and welded the shaft back together. I over filled the weld and blacksmithed it down to the proper diameter with heat, hammer and an anvil. Best done only if you are very confident in your welds.

Now I have a lathe, and turn a section down slightly to the proper diameter and cut new threads with a die. DDYTDY is right about rolled threads being stronger, but I've never had a problem.

The reason I have an excess of rear skewers is that I sometimes tap out rear axles to 6mm and just use a couple of socket head bolts and thick aluminum washers. Saves a useful amount of weight.

A front QR doesn't have to be at tight as a rear, yet they have the same dimensions. So, if strength is compromised slightly I figure I'm still OK. The only QR shaft failures I've ever seen have been the hole at the other end ovalizing from being overtightened.

ericoseveins

Bringing back this dead thread, undead undead undead. I'd like to lengthen a 135mm bolt-on skewer to accommodate having two chain tensioners on the two rear-facing dropouts. Right now I have one chain tensioner on the drive side and still have had to reposition the wheel periodically. It's annoying. I had the thought to GTAW two skewers together and then hit the overfill a bunch of times with a hammer but I'm definitely nervous about staking my life on the result, especially on a rear wheel that has to take some drops and occasional jumps.

If I were to weld two skewers together, it seems like the best cut would be right in the middle of the skewer so the weld penetrates nicely and the area is easy to hit with a hammer. But I'm also wondering if there's just a better way to do this. I'd be certainly happy to pay someone to roll threads on an extra long bolt-on skewer for me, but I haven't been to find anyone to do that so far. And yeah, I'm aware that the risk:benefit is high but it doesn't bother me if that's pointed out to me because I still clearly need it.

aggiegrads

I would get a tandem skewer and remove the excess. I don’t trust my welding skills to keeping my wheel on. Drop outs are one thing, track ends would result in instant wheel ejection if the skewer fails, where a standard dropout the wheel would stay on if JRA and the skewer failed.

dmark 

Yes they are. I had considered threading a rear to fit 120 but only the cheapest ebay skewers are cut threads; all the good ones are rolled.

ericoseveins

This wheel probably wouldn't eject because the hub is a Rohloff and there's a Monkeybone in the way, but I appreciate your point that it's just a dumb safety risk. Thanks for the tip on the tandem skewer. For wheel security I'd really like to use a bolt-on skewer and for whatever reason nobody seems to make bolt-on tandem length skewers. But thanks to your suggestion, I found the Surly trailer hitch skewer - looks like it might be long enough for the hub plus two chain tensioners

aggiegrads

Paul components also makes skewers in 140mm and 170mm lengths. Internal Cam, so they should hold well unless you are a beast.