How much pitting is too much? Pedals
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How much pitting is too much? Pedals
Only torn down one pedal so far and derusted. I was hoping to use these OEM pedals but it’s not looking good. These are the outer bearing surfaces (inners aren’t too bad). Is this just not worth messing with any further? Or would I maybe get decent life out of them if the inner bearing surfaces aren’t bad? Haven’t really dealt with much pitting in my bike ventures to this point - figure I should toss these in the bin for spare parts but if anyone’s got ideas I’m all ears. Of course I’d use new balls if I do rebuild them, just don’t want to waste my time and lose my bearings…
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I'd be looking for some new pedals. You might get a few more miles out of these while you look but they're well on there way out. Actually, they're gone.
Last edited by Hobbiano; 07-27-21 at 09:19 PM. Reason: added some words
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Only torn down one pedal so far and derusted. I was hoping to use these OEM pedals but it’s not looking good. These are the outer bearing surfaces (inners aren’t too bad). Is this just not worth messing with any further? Or would I maybe get decent life out of them if the inner bearing surfaces aren’t bad? Haven’t really dealt with much pitting in my bike ventures to this point - figure I should toss these in the bin for spare parts but if anyone’s got ideas I’m all ears. Of course I’d use new balls if I do rebuild them, just don’t want to waste my time and lose my bearings…
I often use regular thick axle grease and set these up just a bit loose when a build or a bike doesn't warrant or I don't want to give up on a part like this.
You can get a lot of life out of these if you want, albeit with a little compromise.
Never say die!
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#4
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Depends what the purpose is. How many bikes do you have? You can usually get some really good Japanese pedals for fairly cheap ($20).
I would fully overhaul these, polish the cages, and use them on a flip. I wouldn't adjust them loose, because loose pedals tend to knock, which is incredibly annoying even if it's slight.
@Mad Honk would file the cone and maybe the race as well.
I would fully overhaul these, polish the cages, and use them on a flip. I wouldn't adjust them loose, because loose pedals tend to knock, which is incredibly annoying even if it's slight.
@Mad Honk would file the cone and maybe the race as well.
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Depends what the purpose is. How many bikes do you have? You can usually get some really good Japanese pedals for fairly cheap ($20).
I would fully overhaul these, polish the cages, and use them on a flip. I wouldn't adjust them loose, because loose pedals tend to knock, which is incredibly annoying even if it's slight.
@Mad Honk would file the cone and maybe the race as well.
I would fully overhaul these, polish the cages, and use them on a flip. I wouldn't adjust them loose, because loose pedals tend to knock, which is incredibly annoying even if it's slight.
@Mad Honk would file the cone and maybe the race as well.
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#7
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Agreed with these being pretty bad, BUT new bearings are cheap, like our own labor.
I often use regular thick axle grease and set these up just a bit loose when a build or a bike doesn't warrant or I don't want to give up on a part like this.
You can get a lot of life out of these if you want, albeit with a little compromise.
Never say die!
I often use regular thick axle grease and set these up just a bit loose when a build or a bike doesn't warrant or I don't want to give up on a part like this.
You can get a lot of life out of these if you want, albeit with a little compromise.
Never say die!
What have you got to lose?
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Agreed with these being pretty bad, BUT new bearings are cheap, like our own labor.
I often use regular thick axle grease and set these up just a bit loose when a build or a bike doesn't warrant or I don't want to give up on a part like this.
You can get a lot of life out of these if you want, albeit with a little compromise.
Never say die!
I often use regular thick axle grease and set these up just a bit loose when a build or a bike doesn't warrant or I don't want to give up on a part like this.
You can get a lot of life out of these if you want, albeit with a little compromise.
Never say die!
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Depends what the purpose is. How many bikes do you have? You can usually get some really good Japanese pedals for fairly cheap ($20).
I would fully overhaul these, polish the cages, and use them on a flip. I wouldn't adjust them loose, because loose pedals tend to knock, which is incredibly annoying even if it's slight.
@Mad Honk would file the cone and maybe the race as well.
I would fully overhaul these, polish the cages, and use them on a flip. I wouldn't adjust them loose, because loose pedals tend to knock, which is incredibly annoying even if it's slight.
@Mad Honk would file the cone and maybe the race as well.
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Toast.
But, I would measure and see if you could remove the race and sub a annular contact cartridge bearing. will need a jam nut to replace the cone.
But, I would measure and see if you could remove the race and sub a annular contact cartridge bearing. will need a jam nut to replace the cone.
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It might be an interesting experiment to see just how long it takes for the pitting to advance to a stage where there is no question about whether they are suitable for use. Make sure you keep track of the miles and check the pedal regularly.
Practically... I wouldn't use them for rides of any length, but I've got plenty of spare pedals that are in good shape.
Steve in Peoria
Practically... I wouldn't use them for rides of any length, but I've got plenty of spare pedals that are in good shape.
Steve in Peoria
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What pedals are those? I've found that Campagnolo pedal cones can often be found, and will interchange with some other cones, e.g. Gipiemme, Ofmega, Miche. The cups in the pedal body appear to be in decent condition.
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As the few around here have said I would look at the cones and races carefully and determine if they are bad enough to toss the pedals. The biggest problem is the amount of weight per ball bearing used during a ride. The pedals are normally pretty durable and I have even talked wit a fellow who switched to Ceramic balls in his pedals. He is riding cross country on his bike and goes from co-op to co-op to get around. Ceramic balls need no lubrication but cost $5+ to start. But the upside is no maintenance. With old school pedals it is not always an option to grind the soft metal of the cones down to get them smooth again. Being soft steel they may not hold the polishing well. The outer races can be easily polished but the cones are a bit problematic. Smiles, MH
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Finally got some axle grease and rebuilt with new bearings (had a week vacation mixed in there too). Needed to get them done and off the workbench. The bad one shown in the pictures is going to need more adjustment (or maybe just toast). It either knocks slightly or grinds. The other pedal was surprisingly great with little pitting if any and spinning smoothly now. These are MKS Unique Road pedals from around 1972 (Campy copies apparently).
I also found some interesting 1970s MKS Unique Royal pedals on the ‘bay for relatively cheap so I’m gonna check them out and see how they compare, and maybe swap a cone if they’re built the same (or just use them).
I also found some interesting 1970s MKS Unique Royal pedals on the ‘bay for relatively cheap so I’m gonna check them out and see how they compare, and maybe swap a cone if they’re built the same (or just use them).