Can I use FinishLine cross country chain lub for freewheel lubrication?
08-31-17, 07:54 AM
#1
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Can I use FinishLine cross country chain lub for freewheel lubrication?
In this video, after flushing the freewheel, he used phil wood tenacious oil through the bearing slot as lub, someone call it thick oil, but I do not have this, can I use my chain lub which is in similar thickness? will this lub eludes out when it spins please? if chain lub does not work, can I use motor oil lub instead? which tyre of moter lub is better,
I have still some bearing grease, but in order to regrease the bearing,I must open the freewheel completely,first I must buy another key to open the top lock, and then maybe there is some risk that I am not able to reassemble it.
what is your suggestion then?
08-31-17, 07:59 AM
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Do not disassemble the freewheel and do not use grease. I'd use motor oil or a thin oil like Tri-Flow.
08-31-17, 08:37 AM
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Some freewheels call for mineral oil.
08-31-17, 10:13 AM
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Freewheel bearings only turn when the bike is coasting, so chain lube should be fine. Anything too thick might interfere with the pawls engaging properly.
Steve
Steve
08-31-17, 11:01 AM
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really comforting and settling comments, I am done with the freewheel, but made a mistake by the way, having added oil from the bearing slot successfully, I also added oil to the hub bearing of axle because there is also a slot, but then I hear the louder noise when riding the bike, sounds like the oil is too thin that the steel bearing balls are not holden in position but moving around, however it was not so before this incident, now should I have to open the axle bearing and regrease it? or it will automatically recover, I mean the thin chain lab will spins out?
08-31-17, 11:09 AM
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really comforting and settling comments, I am done with the freewheel, but made a mistake by the way, having added oil from the bearing slot successfully, I also added oil to the hub bearing of axle because there is also a slot, but then I hear the louder noise when riding the bike, sounds like the oil is too thin that the steel bearing balls are not holden in position but moving around, however it was not so before this incident, now should I have to open the axle bearing and regrease it? or it will automatically recover, I mean the thin chain lab will spins out?
08-31-17, 11:55 AM
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Maybe it's time to learn how to service wheel bearings! Here are a couple places to start:
Park Tools: Hub Overhaul and Adjustment: Cup and Cone Style | Park Tool
Sheldon Brown: Cone Adjustment, Overhauling & Repacking Hubs
Have fun!
Steve
08-31-17, 12:05 PM
#9
always rides with luggage
Is there a good way to get lube into a singlespeed freewheel, such that I can extend its life?
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2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
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08-31-17, 12:36 PM
#10
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08-31-17, 12:47 PM
#11
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The old bike I rode around the refinery had a freewheel. I used WD-40 as the lube for it and it worked fine considering the environment the bike lived in outdoors 24-7.
08-31-17, 12:54 PM
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I'd personally use thicker stuff. I use phils tenacious on freewheels when I rebuild them.
Typically I'll clean them with wd-40 or mineral spirits. Then I'll take the top cone off (reverse threaded, usually with a hammer and punch) while the freewheel is held in the vice by the removal tool. (Usually the removal tool is long enough to reach in from the back.) (Note, this method doesn't work for the old style freewheels that were removed by the 2 and 4 prong removal tools.) I'll drip phil's tenacious onto the bearings, then replace the top cone. No way in hell I'm going to attempt to lube the bottom bearings. The oil will drip down enough to get to them so I don't worry about it.
Typically I'll clean them with wd-40 or mineral spirits. Then I'll take the top cone off (reverse threaded, usually with a hammer and punch) while the freewheel is held in the vice by the removal tool. (Usually the removal tool is long enough to reach in from the back.) (Note, this method doesn't work for the old style freewheels that were removed by the 2 and 4 prong removal tools.) I'll drip phil's tenacious onto the bearings, then replace the top cone. No way in hell I'm going to attempt to lube the bottom bearings. The oil will drip down enough to get to them so I don't worry about it.
08-31-17, 01:09 PM
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Yes to the original question.
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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08-31-17, 01:21 PM
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I'm astonished that after over a month of these threads some folks are still responding!
08-31-17, 01:45 PM
#15
always rides with luggage
Sure: Remove the wheel, lay it down on the side FW up and drip a bit of lightweight machine oil ( Phil, SA, motor oil or whatever is at hand) through the thin gap in the body, give the FW a spin until it "purrs" and let the excess drip/drain out on a shop rag. Repeat when it sounds dry.
-Bandera
-Bandera
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2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
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08-31-17, 01:57 PM
#16
~>~
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09-01-17, 01:16 AM
#17
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Yes you can. Just do as in the video but with FL.
In other systems, with access to the pawls, you can use grease if you wish. Just make sure they dont stick before assembly. It works just fine and it stays put.
In other systems, with access to the pawls, you can use grease if you wish. Just make sure they dont stick before assembly. It works just fine and it stays put.
Last edited by Racing Dan; 09-01-17 at 01:21 AM.
09-01-17, 06:11 AM
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09-01-17, 05:37 PM
#19
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I've been cleaning my one and only FW, as described in the video, since about the mid 80's, when I learned the process, from a LBS.
However, I allow the WD40 to completely drain/evaporate over night. Then , the next day , flood the FW with motor oil, via a oil gun. Allow the oil to completely drain, wipe down and reinstall.
That FW is still in use today. KB
However, I allow the WD40 to completely drain/evaporate over night. Then , the next day , flood the FW with motor oil, via a oil gun. Allow the oil to completely drain, wipe down and reinstall.
That FW is still in use today. KB
04-09-20, 09:49 AM
#20
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Freewheels get oil, any oil will do.
Do not use grease.
Do not use the "dry" chain lubes. Once the solvent evaporates, they leave behind a very waxy coating that is too think for freewheels.
Like your chain, freewheels need to be oiled periodically. It is easy to do. Just get used to it. Above all, do it.
Do not use grease.
Do not use the "dry" chain lubes. Once the solvent evaporates, they leave behind a very waxy coating that is too think for freewheels.
Like your chain, freewheels need to be oiled periodically. It is easy to do. Just get used to it. Above all, do it.
