Low End Cost Reputable Bike Manufacturers
#26
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#27
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You're fine, you just have a few things going on at the same time that make your choices a bit tougher--having a lot of questions isn't being a nuisance.. Trying to answer questions for each other is what these forums are supposed to be for.
The people who get marked as nuisances are the ones that start insulting people when they don't like the answers they're getting.
IN the meantime, are you still going to buy a cheap bike to put on the trainer? I think you'll save yourself a lot of aggravation if you give up on that one being a gravel bike. If all it's going to do is hang out indoors, you don't really need that.
Hope your health continues to improve.
#28
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Thanks for the info! I am going with a new bike since several of the local bike stores told me that for a beginner buying a used bike(cL or ebay) with no experience would be bad(buying a lemon or worse).
I wish there was a website for biking for newbies, so I won't be too much of a nuisance.
BTW, my price range was $400 until I was shocked at the prices which I am found out from many members. So I am trying to save up to either $1500 or $2000(6 months).
I wish there was a website for biking for newbies, so I won't be too much of a nuisance.
BTW, my price range was $400 until I was shocked at the prices which I am found out from many members. So I am trying to save up to either $1500 or $2000(6 months).
An important part of this is process is determining where you think you will be in terms of this becoming a big part of your life. While it is impossible to know exactly, you probably have a good idea based on other similar activities you have tried in the past with varying degrees of longevity.
The next step is to figure out what size you need, and how you think you will ride in what terrain. The idea is to match the bike to your current and usable future ability. If you can test ride a bike, for more than around the parking lot, that might give you an idea. I think Smyrna is fairly flat so that does help in opening up your choices.
You can buy used if you get an idea of what to look for. Generally my advice is to find an slightly older bike, 5+ years old, on your want list that has not really been used very much. This isn't looking for a $200-$300 offering, but maybe closer to $1000 that has good components, at least 105, but not the latest groups. Tire width is an issue, but I don't know that asphalt trails require tires wider than 32's.
Good luck,
John
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#29
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I know you are looking for new because you don't know enough to spot if a bike is a good deal or a lemon, but you can also look into co ops around you. Many of them get bikes donated, will check to make sure they are in good working order and then sell them. The only issue is finding one that has the gravel bike you want and in your size.
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#30
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This would be my choice in a budget gravel bike if buying new.
https://www.poseidonbike.com/collect...ucts/dropbar-x
https://www.poseidonbike.com/collect...ucts/dropbar-x
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#31
Clark W. Griswold
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Save up the 2k and you will be much happier in the end. At the 2k mark I would make sure I had Shimano 105 or GRX 600 or SRAM Rival/Force, Hydraulic disc brakes and a carbon fork (ideally if not a steel frame and steel fork). I would want some wide-ish tires at least 35s or a wider 650b.. Some brands can also be a bit pricey for what you get and might be paying for a big logo (Trek Cough Cough) rather than better components but in some cases you can get lifetime warranties on frame and fork which can easily make up for it.
Many shops do offer financing so you could potentially get something even nicer or just stick around the 2k mark and just pay it off in 6 months or more. The shop I work at does a 6 or 12 month program with no interest if paid on time, I did it last year and so glad I did. If you know what you want to do and want to ride more often get a nice bike and enjoy it for a long period of time.
Many shops do offer financing so you could potentially get something even nicer or just stick around the 2k mark and just pay it off in 6 months or more. The shop I work at does a 6 or 12 month program with no interest if paid on time, I did it last year and so glad I did. If you know what you want to do and want to ride more often get a nice bike and enjoy it for a long period of time.
#32
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Frame warranties are only as good as the company that provides them. Trek is known for trying to get out of paying while claiming user error. Not to mention warranty or crash replacement doesn't come with shop labor to move all the components to the new bike which would probably run around $400.
#33
Clark W. Griswold
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Frame warranties are only as good as the company that provides them. Trek is known for trying to get out of paying while claiming user error. Not to mention warranty or crash replacement doesn't come with shop labor to move all the components to the new bike which would probably run around $400.
#34
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Giant seems to be best value in the $2000 to $6000 range last time I shopped.
Giant Revolt adv 2
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/revolt-advanced-2
Giant Revolt adv 2
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/revolt-advanced-2
I've got the Revolt 1 and love it.
Last edited by Herzlos; 11-10-22 at 01:49 AM.
#35
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There are many reasons(one is a doctor's excuse- ) I can provide why I am doing it this way, but the short version is to get me into some basic training and start doing something now.
#36
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Thanks for the info! I am going with a new bike since several of the local bike stores told me that for a beginner buying a used bike(cL or ebay) with no experience would be bad(buying a lemon or worse).
I wish there was a website for biking for newbies, so I won't be too much of a nuisance.
BTW, my price range was $400 until I was shocked at the prices which I am found out from many members. So I am trying to save up to either $1500 or $2000(6 months).
I wish there was a website for biking for newbies, so I won't be too much of a nuisance.
BTW, my price range was $400 until I was shocked at the prices which I am found out from many members. So I am trying to save up to either $1500 or $2000(6 months).
Does the seller seem to be interested in bikes and know anything about it? Are they and the property well presented? Stay away from sale posts where the bike isn't described with at least a size. Stuff like "Trek - $400" is almost certainly stolen.
On the bike itself, it's just about judging the condition.
Do the brakes work? Squeeze each brake in turn and see if you can push the bike back or forwards. With the front brake on the front wheel should stay put and the back of the bike will lift, and visa versa.
Do the gears work? Have the seller hold the back wheel off the ground, then you can turn the pedals and change the gears, you should see the gears change up and down. If it doesn't quite reach the ends then it's a simple adjustment, but if it seems a mess then get another bike.
Is the bottom bracket OK? Can you move the pedals/cranks side to side? There should be no movement that way.
Once you're satisfied it's safe to use, adjust the seat to the right height (put the pedal to the bottom of the rotation, put your heel on the pedal and lift the seat until it's under your butt), and then give it a quick ride along the street and back. Does anything seem loose? Does it seem comfortable?
Personally, if I was completely new to cycling, I'd be looking for a fairly simple bike from someone who seems to have looked after it, and try not to spend too much money. Then once you've had it for a while and have a better idea of what you want and what to look for, then go nuts.
Alternatively, if it's just to get a feel for it, I'd have a look at hybrid bikes (like a gravel bike but with a flat bar), since they tend to be a lot cheaper and simpler. Gravel bikes are a lot more expensive (because they are fairly new and super popular, and drop bar levers are much more expensive).
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#37
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The main idea was to buy a cheap Walmart bike and put on a trainer and use it for the winter. When spring came along I would take the bike out(we have a lot of old roads) and start getting in better shape. Once I feel that I need a "good" bike( and have the extra money) I would upgrade to something like a Canyon Grail or Eduance Bike.
There are many reasons(one is a doctor's excuse- ) I can provide why I am doing it this way, but the short version is to get me into some basic training and start doing something now.
There are many reasons(one is a doctor's excuse- ) I can provide why I am doing it this way, but the short version is to get me into some basic training and start doing something now.
However, if you've got a sports chain nearby, like Dicks or Decathlon, then I'd try and go there instead as they should at least be a bit better.
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#38
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The main idea was to buy a cheap Walmart bike and put on a trainer and use it for the winter. When spring came along I would take the bike out(we have a lot of old roads) and start getting in better shape. Once I feel that I need a "good" bike( and have the extra money) I would upgrade to something like a Canyon Grail or Eduance Bike.
There are many reasons(one is a doctor's excuse- ) I can provide why I am doing it this way, but the short version is to get me into some basic training and start doing something now.
There are many reasons(one is a doctor's excuse- ) I can provide why I am doing it this way, but the short version is to get me into some basic training and start doing something now.
#39
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Correct, that is why I wouldn't recommend Trek, they are expensive billboards with less than ideal components on some of their stuff and from various stories do not have an excellent track record for warranty (amongst other issues). Specialized for instance does really support warranty claims quite well and has done some crash replacement work for stuff that they really should not have. There are some other companies who have also done this but Specialized sticks out a lot but then again I do warranty work and have worked with Specialized a lot.
I know a shop that sells both Specialized and Cannondale. Funny how if you go in there looking at Cannondales, they will always try to bait and switch you to a Specialized. I have to wonder if Specialized has sales volume requirements in order to remain a Specialized dealer.
#40
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Lots of people have been happy with bikes from Bikes Direct even after paying the LBS to assemble and adjust
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#41
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What bike manufactures would you trust to buy the low end cost bike from? I am just looking for some names in general and possible models. I have hit two bikes shops already and they are trying to selling me bikes starting at $3500(used with limited warranties). I do not know bike brands very well except maybe the Canyon, Trek, and Specialized.
My preference is for gravel biking( for old abandon asphalt roads), but throw in any additional info as you please.
My preference is for gravel biking( for old abandon asphalt roads), but throw in any additional info as you please.
If I was ever on a strict budget, I'd buy a Decathlon bike and kit. Hell, their top end cycling kit is 95% as good as the top tier stuff which costs 50% more, and their budget stuff is serviceable, good stuff at really affordable prices.
#42
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If you want to go with a Walmart Bike check out KevCentral on YouTube who is famous for testing and reviewing Walmart Bikes like this gravel bike:
Best of luck in your search.
__________________
Don
Don
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#44
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I agree this is a good option for a new entry level gravel bike such as: Save Up to 60% Off Disc Brake Road Bikes - Motobecane Gravel X1 Gravel Bikes.
On the topic of Bikes Direct: I worked in bike stores on and off over the course of about 20 years and got used to buying bikes at employee discount prices. So when I wanted to buy my first aluminum road bike (after decades of riding and racing high-end steel bikes), Bikes Direct's pricing made them the obvious choice. Still happy with that aluminum bike, and with the carbon bike I bought from them later.
(My only complaint: the aluminum bike was missing the head tube decal. When I emailed the company, the guy who replied amused himself by saying that the decal was left off to save weight. I then emailed the owner of BD, who sent me a complete decal set.)
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#45
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I’ll add a +1 on searching CL. I’m currently selling my 2011 full carbon Orbea Terra Cyclocross bike on Sacramento CL for $750 which includes wheelsets for road or gravel, a mixture of 105 (crank) and DuraAce everywhere else and in good shape. Used is your best bet.
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#46
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Decathlon's website for the U.S. ships from CA. https://www.decathlon.com/
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#47
Clark W. Griswold
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Cannondale has excellent support as well.
I know a shop that sells both Specialized and Cannondale. Funny how if you go in there looking at Cannondales, they will always try to bait and switch you to a Specialized. I have to wonder if Specialized has sales volume requirements in order to remain a Specialized dealer.
I know a shop that sells both Specialized and Cannondale. Funny how if you go in there looking at Cannondales, they will always try to bait and switch you to a Specialized. I have to wonder if Specialized has sales volume requirements in order to remain a Specialized dealer.
Not really sure. The shop I worked at was a Cannondale dealer but well before I started but I never got stats on them. Like most companies there are sales volume requirements. Some have lower ones some have higher ones but I would imagine CD has similar they are a large enough company some of the smaller tier ones are just happy for business and want more shops to carry their stuff.
#49
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And the term "Crack'n'fail" was just another example of the usual run of sophomoric bike shop joking; cf. "Cramp-and-go-slow," "Shi*mano," and---way before your time---"Flexxon Lafftek." ( = Exxon Graftek, if I have to explain it.)
#50
Clark W. Griswold
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No, Cannondale didn't have "a lot of issues back in the day." I worked in a couple of Cannondale dealerships over the years, including during the first year Cannondale bikes were available. I did see lots of high-end steel bikes with issues: cracked seat clusters, cracked rear dropouts, cracked down tube or seat tube at the bottom bracket---you know, the usual steel frame failure points. Compared to those, Cannondale frame failures were exceedingly rare.
And the term "Crack'n'fail" was just another example of the usual run of sophomoric bike shop joking; cf. "Cramp-and-go-slow," "Shi*mano," and---way before your time---"Flexxon Lafftek." ( = Exxon Graftek, if I have to explain it.)
And the term "Crack'n'fail" was just another example of the usual run of sophomoric bike shop joking; cf. "Cramp-and-go-slow," "Shi*mano," and---way before your time---"Flexxon Lafftek." ( = Exxon Graftek, if I have to explain it.)