Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

Dry lube. Which one is recommended?

Search
Notices
General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

Dry lube. Which one is recommended?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-29-18, 08:31 AM
  #26  
freeranger
Senior Member
 
freeranger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,601

Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Liked 700 Times in 436 Posts
One I haven't seen mentioned, and I'm currently using (and like) is Pedro's Ice Wax. I do want to try the Rock N Roll lube sometime, if I see it in my LBS.
freeranger is offline  
Old 11-29-18, 09:54 AM
  #27  
rydabent
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lincoln Ne
Posts: 9,924

Bikes: RANS Stratus TerraTrike Tour II

Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3352 Post(s)
Liked 1,056 Times in 635 Posts
IMO dry lube is just more snake oil. A chain is a machine with bearings, and should be lubed with oil.
rydabent is offline  
Old 11-29-18, 10:51 AM
  #28  
Doctor Morbius
Interocitor Command
 
Doctor Morbius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: The adult video section
Posts: 3,375

Bikes: 3 Road Bikes, 2 Hybrids

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 596 Post(s)
Liked 64 Times in 40 Posts
Originally Posted by rydabent
A chain is a machine with bearings, and should be lubed with oil.
For optimum performance, perhaps. But what about those that value a clean drivetrain to optimum performance? I'm not going to be on a podium any time soon, however, I despise a filthy drivetrain. For me the choice is an obvious one.
Doctor Morbius is offline  
Old 11-29-18, 12:28 PM
  #29  
5teve
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 212
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 69 Post(s)
Liked 65 Times in 29 Posts
Boeshield T-9 is sold packaged as chain lube at bike shops but it is available in other formats and from other places. Boat marinas for example. It's a metal treatment product but it make a darned good chainlube. Not messy, lasts pretty well. Apply, let soak for a while-at least an hour. I usually leave it overnight. Wipe dry. (only the inside parts of the chain need lubrication-any lube on the outside of the plates and rollers will just attract dirt.
5teve is offline  
Old 11-29-18, 03:08 PM
  #30  
John_V 
Senior Member
 
John_V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 5,585

Bikes: 2017 Colnago C-RS, 2012 Colnago Ace, 2010 Giant Cypress hybrid

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 408 Post(s)
Liked 122 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by biketampa


ive used their wet lube. Seems fine. Also used squirt chain lube. Both seem fine
Squirt is my choice for dry lube, ProGold for wet lube.
__________________
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe ... Ride Hard ... Ride Daily

2017 Colnago C-RS
2012 Colnago Ace
2010 Giant Cypress
John_V is offline  
Old 11-29-18, 03:22 PM
  #31  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
1001?

How many 'which chain lube threads', in numbers, are we up to, here?

fietsbob is offline  
Old 11-29-18, 03:50 PM
  #32  
Doctor Morbius
Interocitor Command
 
Doctor Morbius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: The adult video section
Posts: 3,375

Bikes: 3 Road Bikes, 2 Hybrids

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 596 Post(s)
Liked 64 Times in 40 Posts
Originally Posted by fietsbob
How many 'which chain lube threads', in numbers, are we up to, here?

But this one is completely different. It's about dry chain lubes from hardware stores that are on a specific list. The fact that so many posters are posting their personal preference for chain lube outside of the criteria listed by the OP is irrelevant.

This thread was intended to be about non-cycling specific dry lubes. It has failed miserably, of course, but that was the original intent. The OP can't help it if people on this forum lack reading and comprehension skills.
Doctor Morbius is offline  
Old 11-29-18, 04:34 PM
  #33  
Hiro11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,608

Bikes: 2022 Specialized Allez Sprint custom build, 2019 Giant Defy Advanced Pro 0, 2018 Seven Mudhoney Pro custom build, 2017 Raleigh Stuntman, various others

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 782 Post(s)
Liked 475 Times in 238 Posts
Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius
But this one is completely different. It's about dry chain lubes from hardware stores that are on a specific list. The fact that so many posters are posting their personal preference for chain lube outside of the criteria listed by the OP is irrelevant.

This thread was intended to be about non-cycling specific dry lubes. It has failed miserably, of course, but that was the original intent. The OP can't help it if people on this forum lack reading and comprehension skills.
In fairness, it's a weird question that makes little sense when Amazon exists and a cycling-specific dry lube will both work better and not cost any more.
Hiro11 is offline  
Old 11-29-18, 04:43 PM
  #34  
Cyclist0108
Occam's Rotor
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,248
Mentioned: 61 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2366 Post(s)
Liked 2,331 Times in 1,164 Posts
Originally Posted by PimpMan
Currently used Canola oil spray for $2 since i did not want to deal with any messy chemicals,
It's a Troll post.


Last edited by Cyclist0108; 11-29-18 at 04:51 PM.
Cyclist0108 is offline  
Old 11-29-18, 06:03 PM
  #35  
avole
Banned.
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: France
Posts: 1,030

Bikes: Brompton, Time, Bianchi, Jan Janssen, Peugeot

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 598 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Hiro11
In fairness, it's a weird question that makes little sense when Amazon exists and a cycling-specific dry lube will both work better and not cost any more.
Really? Not wishing to be unkind, but do you have evidence to prove this? Certainly evidence here in France suggests anything bought from a bike store with the word ‘bike’ on it usually does cost a fair bit more. As to working better, I can’t remember any performance difference, except that dry ones are easier to clean, and normal oil can be a bugger to get off if you leave it on long enough.

I’ll happily use either, by the way, the point is to lubricate when required.
avole is offline  
Old 11-29-18, 06:51 PM
  #36  
Doctor Morbius
Interocitor Command
 
Doctor Morbius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: The adult video section
Posts: 3,375

Bikes: 3 Road Bikes, 2 Hybrids

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 596 Post(s)
Liked 64 Times in 40 Posts
Originally Posted by Hiro11
In fairness, it's a weird question that makes little sense when Amazon exists and a cycling-specific dry lube will both work better and not cost any more.
Not sure if serious. I've often used non-cycling specific lubes on my chains. One of the lubes in the OP's list is 3-in-One's Dry Lube. I'm on my 2nd 4 Oz. bottle of the stuff. IMO, it works as well as cycling specific lubes and only costs $4 a bottle. Most cycling specific chain lubes cost at least twice that much.

Just as a side note, Boeshield T-9 is my personal favorite dry lube and it's not a cycling specific lube either. It's purpose was to store aircraft parts, but someone got the bright idea to sell it as a chain lube. It costs $11 for a small 4 Oz. bottle, the same size as the 3-in-One Dry Lube.
Doctor Morbius is offline  
Old 11-30-18, 02:05 AM
  #37  
KraneXL
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: La-la Land, CA
Posts: 3,623

Bikes: Cannondale Quick SL1 Bike - 2014

Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3405 Post(s)
Liked 240 Times in 185 Posts
Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius
Not sure if serious. I've often used non-cycling specific lubes on my chains. One of the lubes in the OP's list is 3-in-One's Dry Lube. I'm on my 2nd 4 Oz. bottle of the stuff. IMO, it works as well as cycling specific lubes and only costs $4 a bottle. Most cycling specific chain lubes cost at least twice that much.

Just as a side note, Boeshield T-9 is my personal favorite dry lube and it's not a cycling specific lube either. It's purpose was to store aircraft parts, but someone got the bright idea to sell it as a chain lube. It costs $11 for a small 4 Oz. bottle, the same size as the 3-in-One Dry Lube.
Yep, it works that way with most products. Although to be totally fair, it may not be 100% identical (like generic vs name brand), but close enough considering the cost savings.

In the olden days, Morton salt would come with this neat shaker tab that the generic/store brand salt lacked.
KraneXL is offline  
Old 11-30-18, 06:33 AM
  #38  
Garfield Cat
Senior Member
 
Garfield Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 7,085

Bikes: Cervelo Prodigy

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 478 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 87 Times in 67 Posts
Boeshield T-9 for bikes

Price comparisons: since you can buy Boeshield T-9 in various sizes, I went to their own web site to see how much it costs per ounce. There's the 1 ounce, the 4 ounce, then it jumps to one gallon = 128 ounces. As you can imagine, its cheaper by the gallon.

https://boeshield.com/products/

1 ounce = $3.99
4 ounce = $2.74
128 ounce = $0.94

That 128 ounce divided by 4 ounce = 32
Garfield Cat is offline  
Old 11-30-18, 11:34 AM
  #39  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,367

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6220 Post(s)
Liked 4,221 Times in 2,367 Posts
Originally Posted by rydabent
IMO dry lube is just more snake oil. A chain is a machine with bearings, and should be lubed with oil.
And how much longer does your oil lubed chain last than a dry lubed one? And how often do you have to clean your drivetrain? And how much time do you spend cleaning your bike because of the oil on your drivetrain. And how much time do you have to take to clean yourself?

Dry lubricant isn’t “snake oil”. It works without being dirty. My chains last about as long as oil lubricated chains, I don’t spend more than about 20 minutes cleaning my in its entire lifetime. And, when I do have to touch the chain, I don’t have to spend a lot of time cleaning up me, my clothes, the bike or anything the chain might touch.

Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius
For optimum performance, perhaps. But what about those that value a clean drivetrain to optimum performance? I'm not going to be on a podium any time soon, however, I despise a filthy drivetrain. For me the choice is an obvious one.
Completely agree. I’ve been a long time proponent of doing the least amount of maintenance as is necessary. If I can use something that performs as well as some other product but I don’t have to do a lot of extra work, I’m going to go the clean route.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is online now  
Old 11-30-18, 11:40 AM
  #40  
Wattsup
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 683
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 376 Post(s)
Liked 40 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute


And how much longer does your oil lubed chain last than a dry lubed one? And how often do you have to clean your drivetrain? And how much time do you spend cleaning your bike because of the oil on your drivetrain. And how much time do you have to take to clean yourself?

Dry lubricant isn’t “snake oil”. It works without being dirty. My chains last about as long as oil lubricated chains, I don’t spend more than about 20 minutes cleaning my in its entire lifetime. And, when I do have to touch the chain, I don’t have to spend a lot of time cleaning up me, my clothes, the bike or anything the chain might touch.



Completely agree. I’ve been a long time proponent of doing the least amount of maintenance as is necessary. If I can use something that performs as well as some other product but I don’t have to do a lot of extra work, I’m going to go the clean route.
I often ride in wet, muddy conditions. How would I integrate a dry lube into my riding? Serious question...
Wattsup is offline  
Old 11-30-18, 11:43 AM
  #41  
Wattsup
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 683
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 376 Post(s)
Liked 40 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by jgwilliams
I'm not familiar with any of those but I would just comment that, in my experience, graphite lubes are very messy. It probably does help with the friction since graphite is a good specialist lubricant but if you own a pencil you will know that graphite is black.

Rather amused to see that WD-40 actually make a lubricant. They've obviously decided that since everyone has been using the original WD-40 as a lubricant for years they may as cater to the masses.
It's my understanding that WD40, in addition to a solvent, does in fact have a light petroleum-based lube in its formula.
Wattsup is offline  
Old 11-30-18, 11:45 AM
  #42  
Wattsup
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 683
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 376 Post(s)
Liked 40 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by biketampa


i believe there is a GCN video about cleaning your bike quickly and he washes the his bike and uses WD40 to line the chain. Point being it will work it’s just a lune you would apply regularly
Yes, I've seen that video. You should read the comments...they're hilarious. I think some went into convulsions when they saw him spray his chain with WD40.
Wattsup is offline  
Old 11-30-18, 11:48 AM
  #43  
Wattsup
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 683
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 376 Post(s)
Liked 40 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by avole
I’ve used WD40 for decades. Never had a problem, though it pays to spray regularly, and certainly if you haven’t used the bike for a while. That includes heavy usage on unmade roads in Australia, by the way.

What kinds of conditions, wet or dry? I'd love to see a good test using WD40. I'll bet for many environments, it does a fine job.
Wattsup is offline  
Old 11-30-18, 12:19 PM
  #44  
Sy Reene
Advocatus Diaboli
 
Sy Reene's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 8,640

Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX

Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4737 Post(s)
Liked 1,533 Times in 1,004 Posts
Originally Posted by KraneXL
+1. It works as advertised. I just wish they had a better (less wasteful) applicator.
Just in case you weren't aware.. this isn't a lube you drip on each roller.. skip to about 1'40" .. you're supposed to drench the chain.

Sy Reene is offline  
Old 11-30-18, 12:27 PM
  #45  
DaveSSS 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 7,228

Bikes: Cinelli superstar disc, two Yoeleo R12

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1098 Post(s)
Liked 559 Times in 446 Posts
Originally Posted by Wattsup
What kinds of conditions, wet or dry? I'd love to see a good test using WD40. I'll bet for many environments, it does a fine job.
I actually tried WD-40 years ago, just for kicks, after many years of using a home brew of mineral spririts and gear lube for a long time. WD-40 does contain a light oil and I expected it to do well, as long as it was applied frequently. Early wear checks on a Campy 11 speed chain were not good, so I went back to home brew.

These days, I'm trying a dry lube made from paraffin disolved in naptha, with 2-3% gear lube. So far, it seems to work well from a cleanliness standpoint, but I have no idea if it will produce a decent chain life. I apply frequently and get no significant build-up. I never ride in wet conditions, so wet performance doesn't concern me.
DaveSSS is offline  
Old 11-30-18, 03:09 PM
  #46  
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,367

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6220 Post(s)
Liked 4,221 Times in 2,367 Posts
Originally Posted by Wattsup
I often ride in wet, muddy conditions. How would I integrate a dry lube into my riding? Serious question...
Honestly, just the same as you integrate wet lubrication. A chain is a consumable. It will wear out, no matter what you do. People spend way too much time obsessing over what is, perhaps, the cheapest part of the bike.

I’ve used dry lube (White Lightning) throughout the US over the last 20 years on all kinds of conditions without issue. I’ve ridden in rain, in dirt and in both rain and dirt. I just apply the dry lube when it’s needed. And that is not every 100 miles. I did a 5 week, 1500 mile circumnavigation of Lake Erie which is the most challenging conditions I’ve ever ridden in. I had to deal with rain and dirt roads as well as about half of the entire distance being done on dirt roads and tow paths. I did about 600 miles between applications of lubricant which is about what I see at home. In other words, I lubricated only 3 times on that tour. The chain was new when I started and lasted to about 3000 miles.

I’ve also done wet mountain biking without issue as well.

I believe that people mistakenly think that wet lubricants don’t have to be replaced after wet riding. Water gets into the chain just as it does with waxes. The difference is that the low viscosity of the oil allows it to mask what waxes don’t. The problem is still there but hidden.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is online now  
Old 11-30-18, 03:23 PM
  #47  
Wattsup
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 683
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 376 Post(s)
Liked 40 Times in 35 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute




I believe that people mistakenly think that wet lubricants don’t have to be replaced after wet riding. Water gets into the chain just as it does with waxes. The difference is that the low viscosity of the oil allows it to mask what waxes don’t. The problem is still there but hidden.
What I do now is to re-lube the chain between every ride. Here's the scenario. Start out with a sparkling clean chain cleaned in mineral spirits. Lube using wet lube. Go ride. Come back from the ride, chain is dirty. Before next ride I wipe down the chain with a rag moistened with a bit of mineral spirits. Then I lube liberally with wet lube. And then I go ride. Do that for five rides or so, and then go back to step one.
Wattsup is offline  
Old 11-30-18, 05:27 PM
  #48  
Garfield Cat
Senior Member
 
Garfield Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 7,085

Bikes: Cervelo Prodigy

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 478 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 87 Times in 67 Posts
When is a chain really "dirty"? One engineer told me that all lubricants contain some detergents and that's what appears to turn dark. Dark because the detergent ingredient is doing its job.

Is there a way to test this? Perhaps if you ride the bike indoors on a trainer as if it were a controlled environment. Ride maybe an hour a day for a week. It doesn't even have to be a strenuous ride. By controlled environment, I would mean with the garage door closed and the room is practically spotless.

Between each day's ride, when the bike is stored, the entire drive is kept covered to prevent any contamination but allowed to breathe with some ventillation.
Garfield Cat is offline  
Old 12-01-18, 02:33 AM
  #49  
KraneXL
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: La-la Land, CA
Posts: 3,623

Bikes: Cannondale Quick SL1 Bike - 2014

Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3405 Post(s)
Liked 240 Times in 185 Posts
Originally Posted by Garfield Cat
When is a chain really "dirty"? One engineer told me that all lubricants contain some detergents and that's what appears to turn dark. Dark because the detergent ingredient is doing its job.

Is there a way to test this? Perhaps if you ride the bike indoors on a trainer as if it were a controlled environment. Ride maybe an hour a day for a week. It doesn't even have to be a strenuous ride. By controlled environment, I would mean with the garage door closed and the room is practically spotless.

Between each day's ride, when the bike is stored, the entire drive is kept covered to prevent any contamination but allowed to breathe with some ventillation.
No need, just see indoor cycles (or similar chain mechanism for that matter). It will still attract dust and particles, albeit at a much slower rate.
KraneXL is offline  
Old 12-01-18, 04:32 AM
  #50  
avole
Banned.
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: France
Posts: 1,030

Bikes: Brompton, Time, Bianchi, Jan Janssen, Peugeot

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 598 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Wattsup
What kinds of conditions, wet or dry? I'd love to see a good test using WD40. I'll bet for many environments, it does a fine job.
Started in the south, which was not unlike the UK but warmer summers, through rural areas - including one infamous drought - then Sydney and finally some years in the tropics. Can’t swear I used WD40 throughout, but usually an equivalent. Stopped using oils because local experts (Melbourne) were recommending dry lubricants like WD 40 as being easier to get the dust off compared with oils.

I do give bikes in daily use, to whit the Brompton and the Time, a weekly spray. The Brompton seems to get more dirt over far less distance, albeit daily use no matter whether it is raining or snowing*, whereas the Time is my distance/fitness bike and seldom gets wet.

* French roads are salted very quickly after snow fall, so that probably contributes.
avole is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.