Dry lube. Which one is recommended?
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,601
Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Liked 700 Times
in
436 Posts
One I haven't seen mentioned, and I'm currently using (and like) is Pedro's Ice Wax. I do want to try the Rock N Roll lube sometime, if I see it in my LBS.
#27
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lincoln Ne
Posts: 9,924
Bikes: RANS Stratus TerraTrike Tour II
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3352 Post(s)
Liked 1,056 Times
in
635 Posts
IMO dry lube is just more snake oil. A chain is a machine with bearings, and should be lubed with oil.
#28
Interocitor Command
For optimum performance, perhaps. But what about those that value a clean drivetrain to optimum performance? I'm not going to be on a podium any time soon, however, I despise a filthy drivetrain. For me the choice is an obvious one.
#29
Senior Member
Boeshield T-9 is sold packaged as chain lube at bike shops but it is available in other formats and from other places. Boat marinas for example. It's a metal treatment product but it make a darned good chainlube. Not messy, lasts pretty well. Apply, let soak for a while-at least an hour. I usually leave it overnight. Wipe dry. (only the inside parts of the chain need lubrication-any lube on the outside of the plates and rollers will just attract dirt.
#32
Interocitor Command
But this one is completely different. It's about dry chain lubes from hardware stores that are on a specific list. The fact that so many posters are posting their personal preference for chain lube outside of the criteria listed by the OP is irrelevant.
This thread was intended to be about non-cycling specific dry lubes. It has failed miserably, of course, but that was the original intent. The OP can't help it if people on this forum lack reading and comprehension skills.
This thread was intended to be about non-cycling specific dry lubes. It has failed miserably, of course, but that was the original intent. The OP can't help it if people on this forum lack reading and comprehension skills.
#33
Senior Member
But this one is completely different. It's about dry chain lubes from hardware stores that are on a specific list. The fact that so many posters are posting their personal preference for chain lube outside of the criteria listed by the OP is irrelevant.
This thread was intended to be about non-cycling specific dry lubes. It has failed miserably, of course, but that was the original intent. The OP can't help it if people on this forum lack reading and comprehension skills.
This thread was intended to be about non-cycling specific dry lubes. It has failed miserably, of course, but that was the original intent. The OP can't help it if people on this forum lack reading and comprehension skills.
#34
Occam's Rotor
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,248
Mentioned: 61 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2366 Post(s)
Liked 2,331 Times
in
1,164 Posts
#35
Banned.
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: France
Posts: 1,030
Bikes: Brompton, Time, Bianchi, Jan Janssen, Peugeot
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 598 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
I’ll happily use either, by the way, the point is to lubricate when required.
#36
Interocitor Command
Just as a side note, Boeshield T-9 is my personal favorite dry lube and it's not a cycling specific lube either. It's purpose was to store aircraft parts, but someone got the bright idea to sell it as a chain lube. It costs $11 for a small 4 Oz. bottle, the same size as the 3-in-One Dry Lube.
#37
☢
Not sure if serious. I've often used non-cycling specific lubes on my chains. One of the lubes in the OP's list is 3-in-One's Dry Lube. I'm on my 2nd 4 Oz. bottle of the stuff. IMO, it works as well as cycling specific lubes and only costs $4 a bottle. Most cycling specific chain lubes cost at least twice that much.
Just as a side note, Boeshield T-9 is my personal favorite dry lube and it's not a cycling specific lube either. It's purpose was to store aircraft parts, but someone got the bright idea to sell it as a chain lube. It costs $11 for a small 4 Oz. bottle, the same size as the 3-in-One Dry Lube.
Just as a side note, Boeshield T-9 is my personal favorite dry lube and it's not a cycling specific lube either. It's purpose was to store aircraft parts, but someone got the bright idea to sell it as a chain lube. It costs $11 for a small 4 Oz. bottle, the same size as the 3-in-One Dry Lube.
In the olden days, Morton salt would come with this neat shaker tab that the generic/store brand salt lacked.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 7,085
Bikes: Cervelo Prodigy
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 478 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 87 Times
in
67 Posts
Boeshield T-9 for bikes
Price comparisons: since you can buy Boeshield T-9 in various sizes, I went to their own web site to see how much it costs per ounce. There's the 1 ounce, the 4 ounce, then it jumps to one gallon = 128 ounces. As you can imagine, its cheaper by the gallon.
https://boeshield.com/products/
1 ounce = $3.99
4 ounce = $2.74
128 ounce = $0.94
That 128 ounce divided by 4 ounce = 32
Price comparisons: since you can buy Boeshield T-9 in various sizes, I went to their own web site to see how much it costs per ounce. There's the 1 ounce, the 4 ounce, then it jumps to one gallon = 128 ounces. As you can imagine, its cheaper by the gallon.
https://boeshield.com/products/
1 ounce = $3.99
4 ounce = $2.74
128 ounce = $0.94
That 128 ounce divided by 4 ounce = 32
#39
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,367
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6220 Post(s)
Liked 4,221 Times
in
2,367 Posts
Dry lubricant isn’t “snake oil”. It works without being dirty. My chains last about as long as oil lubricated chains, I don’t spend more than about 20 minutes cleaning my in its entire lifetime. And, when I do have to touch the chain, I don’t have to spend a lot of time cleaning up me, my clothes, the bike or anything the chain might touch.
Completely agree. I’ve been a long time proponent of doing the least amount of maintenance as is necessary. If I can use something that performs as well as some other product but I don’t have to do a lot of extra work, I’m going to go the clean route.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#40
Senior Member
And how much longer does your oil lubed chain last than a dry lubed one? And how often do you have to clean your drivetrain? And how much time do you spend cleaning your bike because of the oil on your drivetrain. And how much time do you have to take to clean yourself?
Dry lubricant isn’t “snake oil”. It works without being dirty. My chains last about as long as oil lubricated chains, I don’t spend more than about 20 minutes cleaning my in its entire lifetime. And, when I do have to touch the chain, I don’t have to spend a lot of time cleaning up me, my clothes, the bike or anything the chain might touch.
Completely agree. I’ve been a long time proponent of doing the least amount of maintenance as is necessary. If I can use something that performs as well as some other product but I don’t have to do a lot of extra work, I’m going to go the clean route.
#41
Senior Member
I'm not familiar with any of those but I would just comment that, in my experience, graphite lubes are very messy. It probably does help with the friction since graphite is a good specialist lubricant but if you own a pencil you will know that graphite is black.
Rather amused to see that WD-40 actually make a lubricant. They've obviously decided that since everyone has been using the original WD-40 as a lubricant for years they may as cater to the masses.
Rather amused to see that WD-40 actually make a lubricant. They've obviously decided that since everyone has been using the original WD-40 as a lubricant for years they may as cater to the masses.
#42
Senior Member
Yes, I've seen that video. You should read the comments...they're hilarious. I think some went into convulsions when they saw him spray his chain with WD40.
#43
Senior Member
What kinds of conditions, wet or dry? I'd love to see a good test using WD40. I'll bet for many environments, it does a fine job.
#44
Advocatus Diaboli
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 8,640
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4737 Post(s)
Liked 1,533 Times
in
1,004 Posts
#45
Senior Member
These days, I'm trying a dry lube made from paraffin disolved in naptha, with 2-3% gear lube. So far, it seems to work well from a cleanliness standpoint, but I have no idea if it will produce a decent chain life. I apply frequently and get no significant build-up. I never ride in wet conditions, so wet performance doesn't concern me.
#46
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,367
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6220 Post(s)
Liked 4,221 Times
in
2,367 Posts
I’ve used dry lube (White Lightning) throughout the US over the last 20 years on all kinds of conditions without issue. I’ve ridden in rain, in dirt and in both rain and dirt. I just apply the dry lube when it’s needed. And that is not every 100 miles. I did a 5 week, 1500 mile circumnavigation of Lake Erie which is the most challenging conditions I’ve ever ridden in. I had to deal with rain and dirt roads as well as about half of the entire distance being done on dirt roads and tow paths. I did about 600 miles between applications of lubricant which is about what I see at home. In other words, I lubricated only 3 times on that tour. The chain was new when I started and lasted to about 3000 miles.
I’ve also done wet mountain biking without issue as well.
I believe that people mistakenly think that wet lubricants don’t have to be replaced after wet riding. Water gets into the chain just as it does with waxes. The difference is that the low viscosity of the oil allows it to mask what waxes don’t. The problem is still there but hidden.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#47
Senior Member
I believe that people mistakenly think that wet lubricants don’t have to be replaced after wet riding. Water gets into the chain just as it does with waxes. The difference is that the low viscosity of the oil allows it to mask what waxes don’t. The problem is still there but hidden.
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 7,085
Bikes: Cervelo Prodigy
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 478 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 87 Times
in
67 Posts
When is a chain really "dirty"? One engineer told me that all lubricants contain some detergents and that's what appears to turn dark. Dark because the detergent ingredient is doing its job.
Is there a way to test this? Perhaps if you ride the bike indoors on a trainer as if it were a controlled environment. Ride maybe an hour a day for a week. It doesn't even have to be a strenuous ride. By controlled environment, I would mean with the garage door closed and the room is practically spotless.
Between each day's ride, when the bike is stored, the entire drive is kept covered to prevent any contamination but allowed to breathe with some ventillation.
Is there a way to test this? Perhaps if you ride the bike indoors on a trainer as if it were a controlled environment. Ride maybe an hour a day for a week. It doesn't even have to be a strenuous ride. By controlled environment, I would mean with the garage door closed and the room is practically spotless.
Between each day's ride, when the bike is stored, the entire drive is kept covered to prevent any contamination but allowed to breathe with some ventillation.
#49
☢
When is a chain really "dirty"? One engineer told me that all lubricants contain some detergents and that's what appears to turn dark. Dark because the detergent ingredient is doing its job.
Is there a way to test this? Perhaps if you ride the bike indoors on a trainer as if it were a controlled environment. Ride maybe an hour a day for a week. It doesn't even have to be a strenuous ride. By controlled environment, I would mean with the garage door closed and the room is practically spotless.
Between each day's ride, when the bike is stored, the entire drive is kept covered to prevent any contamination but allowed to breathe with some ventillation.
Is there a way to test this? Perhaps if you ride the bike indoors on a trainer as if it were a controlled environment. Ride maybe an hour a day for a week. It doesn't even have to be a strenuous ride. By controlled environment, I would mean with the garage door closed and the room is practically spotless.
Between each day's ride, when the bike is stored, the entire drive is kept covered to prevent any contamination but allowed to breathe with some ventillation.
#50
Banned.
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: France
Posts: 1,030
Bikes: Brompton, Time, Bianchi, Jan Janssen, Peugeot
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 598 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
I do give bikes in daily use, to whit the Brompton and the Time, a weekly spray. The Brompton seems to get more dirt over far less distance, albeit daily use no matter whether it is raining or snowing*, whereas the Time is my distance/fitness bike and seldom gets wet.
* French roads are salted very quickly after snow fall, so that probably contributes.