dirtydozen

Hello, I am trying to set up a new rear derailleur, but I can't get it right and the derailleur is in a awkward position, see photo : https://i.imgur.com/Yqtg686.jpg

The smallest ring is very small (sub 30), is this the problem ? It looks more normal on the other rings. I can get the chain to go up a couple of cogs when I do 10 clicks on the hood, i'm far from a proper indexing.

The barrel adjuster feels a bit weird, the screw wont go totally in and blocks itself 3/4 of the way in (i don't have any grease here, can i try put some cooking oil on the screw ?)

I was told to index front derailleur first, but to do that i need to get in the little ring and biggest cog

The wait in the local bike shops are around 2 weeks so I have to do it by myself.

Any advice ? Thanks, have a good day

datlas 

Tough to say for sure but looks like chain is too long. There are tons of YouTube videos that can take you step-by-step on this. Try putting in big ring on front to take up all that chain slack, but I am guessing you may need to remove a few links from your chain.

TakingMyTime

Your chain looks to be too long. Also, you'll be adjusting the indexing from the center chain ring once you have your limit screws set properly and your cable tension is correct. I wouldn't be trying to fix this with the bike upside down.

Start with this Park Tool page.... https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...&area%5B%5D=52

znomit

The shimano instructions are excellent
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RARD001-04-ENG.pdf

noodle soup

+1

If you don't ride the bike upside-down, don't try to tune it that way.

cb400bill

Thread moved from Road Cycling to Bike Mechanics.

Carbonfiberboy 

I kinda doubt that your chain is too long, it's just that you should never ride your bike in that gear combo, just like you should never ride big-big. Using the RD, I set my triples up so that all my cogs are usable in the middle ring, though I'll accept chain noise in the 2 smallest cogs, but not in the biggest. That takes care of the RD.

The granny ring is only for your 4 largest cogs, doesn't matter how it shifts or doesn't on the others. I set my FD up so there's no rub there in granny - big cog and yet the chain will still shift onto the big ring with the chain in the middle of the cassette.

On some bikes, I have chain length set at big-big + 1 link. On some bikes that's too long and I just have to remember not to try for big-big, There's really no reason to use the 2 largest cogs in the big ring anyway.

Yeah, don't do this upside down. The weight of the chain on the tops of the chainrings is what enables the system to work. So you need a workstand if you're going to work on your own bikes. Just buy one. It's an investment that will save you a bucket of money on the long run. If that's a carbon frame, don't clamp the top tube! Instead show enough seatpost that you can put the clamp on it. If you have to extend the seatpost to do this. mark the top of your seattube by putting electrical tape around your seatpost before you extend it, so you can easily get if back where it was.

Retro Grouch 

1. Was it ever right since you had the bike?
2. How much fiddling around with the derailleurs have you done? Every adjustment that you make affects subsequent adjustments so, once you get it screwed up, you pretty much have to redo the whole thing.

I too doubt your chain is too long and causing the problem. The most likely issue is that your rear derailleur is out of adjustment. If you look up the Park tool website, you can find step-by-step instructions for installing your rear derailleur. Often you get the best result by disconnecting the shift cable at the derailleur and starting at step one. Do the steps in order because the sequence matters.

If that doesn't do it, another common issue is a bent derailleur hanger. Put your chain in a gear combination that makes your derailleur arm point straight down, stand your bike up on it's two tires and look at the derailleur from behind. The derailleur arm should be parallel to the cassette cogs. If it looks like it's leaning toward the rear wheel, even a tiny bit, there's your problem.

dirtydozen

Hello guys, thanks for your feedback.

Chain probably isn't too long yes, the indexing is just real messed up. I'll wait a bit for a pro to do it for me, i've seen loads of tutorials and its still not quite right. My barrel adjuster feel weird for some reason

dirtydozen

I tried the bike around my block, I can go on each of the 3 chainrings, but I can't go at the 2/3 biggest cogs at the back and sometimes there is some rubbing. Limit screws are ok, chain won't go into the spokes or pedal.

Is it ok to ride 500km over 2 weeks in terms of damaging the equipement ? I think I have enough gears to do some rides till bike shops can accept my bike, but i'm worried about damaging anything on the set up.

Thanks

TakingMyTime

You seem to have a general understanding of how this should work. Again, I would suggest watching the Park Tool videos. Trace the cable from the shifter to the RD. Make sure everything is seated properly and then begin the adjustment process. The final process of getting the indexing to perform flawlessly takes a little finesse, but getting it to shift up and down the cog should be pretty straight forward.

I had your same problem about 2 years ago. I was progressively over time losing the ability to reach the larger and smaller cogs. I couldn't figure out for the life of me what was going on. Then after closer examination of the connection of the housing in the shifter I could see it was slowly tearing apart. A foot long piece of housing and a new cable put me back on course..

Retro Grouch 

Read post #8 again and take a look at your derailleur from the back. My bet is you have a bent derailleur hanger and it's pointing in toward the tire.

davidad

To be on the safe side put on a spoke protector.

dirtydozen

The thing is, when i try to turn the limit screws nothing happen because of the cable tension that isn't right. The thingy to adjust tension feels a bit weird tbh, I am scared that if I deconnect the cable and start from scratch I'll fail and would wait 2 weeks to ride it again.
(btw in France for repairs under 50euros the state pays it, to promote communiting and cycling in general)

I went for a ride today, I very much enjoyed it, could use the gears I needed on the moment, but there was more often than not a rubbing noise. I don't really mind it yet tbh, I could ride the next 10 days on it waiting for a bikeshop to fix it.
But the question is how damaging is that? We are talking about 50k's of rubbing chain for 5 rides

TakingMyTime

^^ I understand. If you're not comfortable with tackling the fix, then you're not comfortable. It would be a shame not to have your bike available. Is there anyone else you could turn to other than a shop? Maybe a cycling buddy?