Campy Tipo hub. Is it dead Jim, or only a flesh wound?
08-03-21, 12:48 AM
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Campy Tipo hub. Is it dead Jim, or only a flesh wound?
Behold the non-drive-side of the rear hub of my Raleigh "International". This bike has hardly any miles on it and the brake tracks are still pristine on this wheel. However, I was messing with the spacers while redishing the wheel and noticed...a crack! Disappointed! This is extremely surprising considering the obvious low miles on this wheel. What do you guys think? Is this hub completely toast or should I just ride? This is the bike I'm contemplating riding down the coast to Eroica in a couple of months.
08-03-21, 01:16 AM
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Try @Mad Honk.
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08-03-21, 03:03 AM
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Yea disappointing to be sure. I had a similar problem with a very low mile Raleigh Competition Gs , only it was the rear derailleur . I replaced it with a NR and put an otherwise pristine Nuovo Grand Sport RD out to pasture in a display case. When I was repairing the derailleur’s cage(came apart!) I spotted cracking around the pivot arms. I was told once that Campagnolo had the Tipo hubs and some of the other Grand Sport items jobbed out to other shops. I don’t know if that’s true but that derailleur is the only defective Campy part I have run across. This particular bike was bought new in 1977 and sat in the original owners garage until I bought it in 2016 , he never rode it. I may have one in my hub bin if you are in need.
08-03-21, 03:04 AM
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A Hal 9000 could give you an estimate of revolutions to failure, unless it interfered with the mission. Replace, another or go Record.
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08-03-21, 05:37 AM
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@davester Is the crack behind the reflection and go to the edge?
Check to see if your axle is bent on that side too.
Check to see if your axle is bent on that side too.
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08-03-21, 08:03 AM
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@davester Is the crack behind the reflection and go to the edge?
Check to see if your axle is bent on that side too.
Check to see if your axle is bent on that side too.
08-03-21, 11:49 AM
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For riding locally on routine missions I'd say keep using it until you can't use it any more.
For the ride down the coast, use something else - either a different wheel or a different bike. You don't want to run the risk of it rendering your bike unrideabe somewhere between, say, Gorda and Lucia. Things like that have a nasty habit of biting you on the backside on big rides and when most inconvenient. You know, Murphy's law of major rides.
For the ride down the coast, use something else - either a different wheel or a different bike. You don't want to run the risk of it rendering your bike unrideabe somewhere between, say, Gorda and Lucia. Things like that have a nasty habit of biting you on the backside on big rides and when most inconvenient. You know, Murphy's law of major rides.
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08-03-21, 12:03 PM
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For riding locally on routine missions I'd say keep using it until you can't use it any more.
For the ride down the coast, use something else - either a different wheel or a different bike. You don't want to run the risk of it rendering your bike unrideabe somewhere between, say, Gorda and Lucia. Things like that have a nasty habit of biting you on the backside on big rides and when most inconvenient. You know, Murphy's law of major rides.
For the ride down the coast, use something else - either a different wheel or a different bike. You don't want to run the risk of it rendering your bike unrideabe somewhere between, say, Gorda and Lucia. Things like that have a nasty habit of biting you on the backside on big rides and when most inconvenient. You know, Murphy's law of major rides.
My vote is to replace unless it is just wall art.
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08-03-21, 01:00 PM
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practically speaking, it needs to be replaced. Don't go out for rides that are longer than you are willing to walk home.
on the other hand.... I'm curious to see what happens when this does finally become unrideable, and how long it takes. With that in mind, I say keep on using this wheel.
My experience is limited... I've had cracked cups due to bent or broken axles, but never a failure like this. It's almost like someone tried to force something into the hub that was too large. Maybe a replacement cup that was too big? Or tried a conversion to cartridge bearings that didn't quite fit Anyone seen this before?
Steve in Peoria
on the other hand.... I'm curious to see what happens when this does finally become unrideable, and how long it takes. With that in mind, I say keep on using this wheel.
My experience is limited... I've had cracked cups due to bent or broken axles, but never a failure like this. It's almost like someone tried to force something into the hub that was too large. Maybe a replacement cup that was too big? Or tried a conversion to cartridge bearings that didn't quite fit Anyone seen this before?
Steve in Peoria
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08-03-21, 01:08 PM
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You KNOW it's there....................................
Eroica definitely can expose any weakness in the system, from the mechanical, structural, and the physiological elements of the bicycle.
Italian BB's are right/right because they were "lazy", and English are right/left (or is it left/right?
) because it matters. I did almost 100 miles total on my Somec shakedown rides prior to Eroica and the machine got a clean bill of health.
At around mile 70-80 at Eroica, my left crankarm kissed the chainstay. WTH!!?? I'll be darned if the if the right side of the cartridge BB wasn't walking out. I got off of the bike and screwed it back in as best as I could manage by hand and continued to ride. About every 3 miles or so I had to dismount and "tighten" the BB. No wonder the Italians have Hercules on call to tighten the fixed cups.
Anyway, lesson learned. I now not only torque the Italian threaded cartridge BB's down, I also use low-strength thread locker.
As a testament to cartridge BB's, the Campagnolo Chorus unit suffered zero damage as the spindle and housing are entirely self contained.
You KNOW it's there.
Eroica definitely can expose any weakness in the system, from the mechanical, structural, and the physiological elements of the bicycle.
Italian BB's are right/right because they were "lazy", and English are right/left (or is it left/right?
) because it matters. I did almost 100 miles total on my Somec shakedown rides prior to Eroica and the machine got a clean bill of health.At around mile 70-80 at Eroica, my left crankarm kissed the chainstay. WTH!!?? I'll be darned if the if the right side of the cartridge BB wasn't walking out. I got off of the bike and screwed it back in as best as I could manage by hand and continued to ride. About every 3 miles or so I had to dismount and "tighten" the BB. No wonder the Italians have Hercules on call to tighten the fixed cups.
Anyway, lesson learned. I now not only torque the Italian threaded cartridge BB's down, I also use low-strength thread locker.
As a testament to cartridge BB's, the Campagnolo Chorus unit suffered zero damage as the spindle and housing are entirely self contained.
You KNOW it's there.
08-03-21, 01:58 PM
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Duct tape, or better yet, aluminum duct tape for a better match.
I'm joking - I think.
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08-03-21, 02:29 PM
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08-03-21, 02:38 PM
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08-03-21, 04:49 PM
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08-03-21, 04:53 PM
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Fortunately, Davester is a lot smarter than that.
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08-03-21, 04:53 PM
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That's plenty of time to replace the hub with another Campy one, which shouldn't be difficult nor expensive.
Try @Mad Honk.
Try @Mad Honk.
I have plenty of Record hubs that could be put into service but no Tippo. I am going to look on Flea bay and see if any are out there. I can also contact Sammy at Old Spokes Home and see what they might have. Smiles, MH
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08-03-21, 05:13 PM
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As I said, I am pretty sure I have a tipo low flange hub in my hub bin.
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08-03-21, 05:30 PM
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Yup I got one in pretty good shape. I do not know the date stamp but the bearings feel very smooth. I would still service them before using because they have been in a baggie in my hub bin for at least three years. PM me if interested, I don’t think I will be using it.
08-03-21, 05:33 PM
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on the other hand.... I'm curious to see what happens when this does finally become unrideable, and how long it takes. With that in mind, I say keep on using this wheel.
My experience is limited... I've had cracked cups due to bent or broken axles, but never a failure like this. It's almost like someone tried to force something into the hub that was too large. Maybe a replacement cup that was too big? Or tried a conversion to cartridge bearings that didn't quite fit Anyone seen this before?
My experience is limited... I've had cracked cups due to bent or broken axles, but never a failure like this. It's almost like someone tried to force something into the hub that was too large. Maybe a replacement cup that was too big? Or tried a conversion to cartridge bearings that didn't quite fit Anyone seen this before?
I do believe that wheel stability is quite dynamic. So my guess is that it will propagate to the flange spoke holes pretty quickly, and once one half of a spoke hole is cracked, more will follow. But, it would be interesting to see how long. One could try stop drilling the crack, but that may just slow it down.
I think I've seen similar body/flange cracks with other brands. NukeProof made a 3-part hub, and I think many suffered from body/flange cracks.
08-03-21, 05:42 PM
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A real testosterone-laden Chuck Norris-type manly man wouldn't have asked our opinion in the first place. He'd have just toughed it out and walked the last 63 miles into Cambria. Or done a front-wheel wheelie all the way.
Fortunately, Davester is a lot smarter than that.
Fortunately, Davester is a lot smarter than that.
08-03-21, 05:43 PM
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08-03-21, 05:45 PM
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08-03-21, 06:19 PM
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Good on ya Kabuki! This is what BF is all about! Smiles, MH
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08-03-21, 06:21 PM
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I had three spokes and connecting flange pull away in one shot on a Mavic 501 rear. The wheel sprang out of true but didn't asplode anymore. Loosened the rear brake, tweaked a few other spokes and went home in 'limp mode' (for Volvo owners)
08-03-21, 06:27 PM
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