haggiszero

I purchased emonda + didn't realize the steer was cut below the stem stack height until I got the bike...

Is this unsafe? The steerer tube/top of the compression plug is cut to the middle of the stem's top bolt. I can still tighten both bolts to 6nm as specified, and the top cap fit and allows the bearings to pre-load.

Campag4life

An unfortunate hack job. What size Emonda? You could flip the fork on ebay with full disclosure as it would fit the size down or two Emonda.

Me personally? I wouldn't ride it if the top of steerer isn't within 1/8" of top of stem clamp. But that is being a bit fussy....but I want a fully perch of stem/steerer connection. I in fact tend to build my bikes almost flush to slight protrustive and then have a 2mm spacer or so above the stem because I want the clamp fully engaged with the fork steerer.

But that's me. If you are a light and not high watt rider, you likely would have no issue but any bike company would not support that condition.

Yes, you can investigate a new fork through your local bike shop ordering from Trek. Sure won't be cheap and a needless error when cutting a steeer on a slammed stem. Shame on the previous owner or his bike shop.

CliffordK

What material is it?

post a side view. What spacers are below it?

clasher

There exists 30mm low-stack mtb stems; without measuring I don't know if you even have that much.

topflightpro

Yeah, that seems a bit too short to me. Not sure how much of a safety issue it really is, but I wouldn't want to find out.

I suggest buying a new fork and trying to sell that one.

Sillyak

3mm below the stem is okay, yours definitely looks lower than that.

gregf83 

Perhaps it was cut for a different stem? I wouldn't ride as is.

Karman321

You can ride it, I do and would

haggiszero

I am a very light rider, fairly low watt (2.7w/kg). I've put 600 miles into this bike so far and haven't had any issues...But I think if Trek can get me a new stem for 250-300 its worth the peace of mind...I'll give them a call.

Its a carbon steerer/fork on a Emonda ALR. There are no spacers below it...

I'll measure, but I think you are right.

Cuyuna

When I went to change the stem on my brand-new FX6s, I noted that same arrangement. Apparently Trek didn't think it would be a problem and neither did I. I did pull one of the spacers when I put the new stem on so that it fit a little closer to the top.

chaadster

I would not worry about that. I mean, what's the issue? You've got a full expander plug in there, so you've got full support through the stem clamp and you're not crushing the steerer (provided torquing to spec), so what...you've a less-than-complete lock on the steerer by the stem? If the stem isn't slipping because it's failing to get good purchase on the steerer, I don't see the issue. The steerer, as short as it is (and without any spacers above the integrated headset) sure as sh*t ain't gonna snap off or anything. I just don't think there's any unsupport steerer against which applied leverage is going to do anything, and I've never heard of a stem pulling off of a steerer...and this goes back to the days when Ahead came out for MTBs and we used single bolt stems.

I'm just trying to make a rational risk assessment here, not argue against a "better safe than sorry" philosophy!

haggiszero

Thanks - I think you are right...Granted, its not 100% ideal, but I don't think its really that unsafe...

The 2 risks are that 1) the stem pops off the steerer because it can't get a good grip. 2) the steerer cracks?

#2 doesn't seem any more likely than if it was normal length. if anything, a shorter steer would have less flex and be harder to crack off than a longer steerer. Like how a short stick is harder to crack in half than a long stick...

#1 doesn't really seem all that likely either. The stem bolts are tightened to spec and the compression plug reinforces the steered providing a solid tube to grab, despite only 1 bolt being fully around the steerer tube. The upper bolt still is tightened down creating friction between the upper part of the stem and the steerer tube.

Plus...the top cap is on @ 3nm which also keeps constant downward force on the stem so the stem doesn't somehow come upwards and off the top of the steerer.

TrojanHorse

That top bolt is right at the top of the steerer... do you think a cylinder is more likely to crush at the end or in the middle?

You're rationalizing.

haggiszero

I am not sure I get your point...I think a cylinder is more likely to crush in the middle, same reason why a coke can crushes in the middle, not the top...

I think the compression plug keeps outward force against the stem bolts, so its not very likely for the steer to crush inwards..

TrojanHorse

A coke can doesn't have an open top. Your steerer does and they are absolutely more frail at the ends.

haggiszero

I could see that being the case if there was no top, but there is a compression plug in there acting as a top.

TrojanHorse

The one in your picture is well below the top

Zaskar

It's hard to tell exactly where the top bolt is in relation to the expander. Based on what I see... I wouldn't ride it.

I would:
1. Start sourcing another fork
2. Look to the FB seller to kick a bit for said fork. Unless he disclosed that, it's a pretty sh**** way to sell a bike.

TimothyH

I like to cut my carbon steerers 1 or 2 mm above the stem and use a spacer above the stem, especially for a new build. A long expansion plug helps.

Most expansion plugs are too short and leave the portion of the steerer at the bottom of the stem unsupported. The specialized expansion plug shown above is about the best there is as it is long and supports a significant portion of the steerer.

I just ordered a Specialized plug similar to the one in the photo. They are difficult to find.



-Tim-

f4rrest

I'd want to be sure that a single bolt in stem continues to hold the stem in place if the other bolt fails.

Just loosen the bottom bolt and give the bars some heavy tugging and twisting (standing still of course).

Did the bars stay in place? If yes, then probably ok. If no, then understand you're effectively riding with only 1 half of the designed clamp.

Don't forget to tighten the loose bolt again.

UltraManDan

On a carbon steerer I wouldn't risk it. You can try and gain a few mm's by switching to a shorter headset dust cover, but it looks like you already have the Cane Creek short stack headset on there.

Kapusta

I can’t see what headset is on there now, but if it is a particularly tall stack headset (top or bottom half), you could gain a few mm by getting one with a shorter stack.

Worth looking in to before ordering a new fork.

Dean V

It is too short. I would want at least another 5mm of engagement.

exmechanic89

It'll probably work as-is to some degree, but I'd change the fork, too. I'd be nervous riding it at any real speeds. Pretty stupid mistake by whoever cut the steerer.

Fiery

This is a good idea of the OP is really bent on using the bike as-is.

I would get a lower stack stem at the very least, a Thomson X2 for example. A Basso stem would be even lower, but those are quite expensive.