how to center Campagnolo Nuovo Record brakes?
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how to center Campagnolo Nuovo Record brakes?
I'm bringing an old Italian bike back to life. The job is mostly finished, but I can't center the rear brake arms to the wheel. There are a couple of nuts and washers on these brakes and Im guessing the trick is to rotate one of these, but I'm not sure which.
These are the second type of Nuovo Record with recessed mounting bolts, domed quick release and brake pad carrier with black rubber.
Please help 😁
These are the second type of Nuovo Record with recessed mounting bolts, domed quick release and brake pad carrier with black rubber.
Please help 😁
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Unlike Dia-Compe or Modolo, I have never had a problem centering Record calipers. I assume you have adjusted it properly before mounting. I wonder if the nut is bottoming out before getting tight. Do you have a different (shorter) nut you can try? Also check the bolt threads.
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Buy the Park OBW-4 wrench. Use it on the thin flats just in front of where the brake enters the fork or brake bridge (as appropriate). There is a photo in the link that shows you what I mean. A cone wrench can be to work in a pinch, but the offset wrench is easier to use.
Without this or a similar offset wrench, it can be done but it's a pain. With it, easy-peasy-lemon-squeazy.
Not all brakes of this era had the flats, but Campy NR did.
Without this or a similar offset wrench, it can be done but it's a pain. With it, easy-peasy-lemon-squeazy.
Not all brakes of this era had the flats, but Campy NR did.
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the cone wrench did the job! I'm ordering one of those park tool wrenches in any case, it was not an optimal experience with the cone wrench. Thanks everyone!
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Campagnolo side-pull brake pivot bolts (and their clones) have 13mm wrench flats to accept a cone wrench to center the caliper:
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Some fork crowns set the pivot bolt 13mm wrench flats tucked underneath the headset.
like Colnago for a long time.
with them the wheel needs to be removed to access. A bit of trial and error results.
like Colnago for a long time.
with them the wheel needs to be removed to access. A bit of trial and error results.
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I have used a Campy cone wrench and it works great. As described by bikingshearer and JohnDThompson. After adjustment , they modulate well.
#9
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If the headset overhang interferes with access to the caliper wrench flats, I usually just add a bushing between the caliper and fork crown so I can center the caliper without dropping the wheel. No trial/error necessary.
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removed the bushing and all was happy again.
the bushing was of decent quality with a minor chamfer at each side.
I need to get a small lathe again and machine up something to see if I can have the easy adjustment and no shudder.
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For posterity, I've had a problem centering a side pull on one bike. Center it then tighten and it would not stay centered. Tried several times. I finally removed the caliper and inspected the hardware. One mounting bolt washer had a slight burr on it. Sanded that off and re-assembled. Stayed centered. I'll guess that the burr had found a home on the fork so whenever I tightened things up the burr pulled the assembly aside. So, be sure the brake bolt and hardware are in nice condition, no bumps or burrs or defects. Then adjust for centering.
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Campagnolo supplied two "star washers" for the front caliper to get the wrench flats to clear the headset cup.
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I bet you could take a cone wrench, place it in a bench vise and add the right offset to clear the headset with a hammer. (Just don't use a Campy wrench. Let Ernesto rest in peace.)
And off topic but quite closely related - why aren't these flats provided on dual pivots? (Maybe they are but not on either of the Shimanos I picked up used; model unknown but except that missing detail, very nice brakes.) I have to set those brakes by trial and error.
And off topic but quite closely related - why aren't these flats provided on dual pivots? (Maybe they are but not on either of the Shimanos I picked up used; model unknown but except that missing detail, very nice brakes.) I have to set those brakes by trial and error.
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I bet you could take a cone wrench, place it in a bench vise and add the right offset to clear the headset with a hammer. (Just don't use a Campy wrench. Let Ernesto rest in peace.)
And off topic but quite closely related - why aren't these flats provided on dual pivots? (Maybe they are but not on either of the Shimanos I picked up used; model unknown but except that missing detail, very nice brakes.) I have to set those brakes by trial and error.
And off topic but quite closely related - why aren't these flats provided on dual pivots? (Maybe they are but not on either of the Shimanos I picked up used; model unknown but except that missing detail, very nice brakes.) I have to set those brakes by trial and error.
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In a case like that, I'd eyeball how far I needed to move the caliper, take the front wheel off, move it using a cone wrench from below, then pop the wheel back on. Might take one or two redos but that should only take a minute or so.
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And off topic but quite closely related - why aren't these flats provided on dual pivots? (Maybe they are but not on either of the Shimanos I picked up used; model unknown but except that missing detail, very nice brakes.) I have to set those brakes by trial and error.
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You are correct. I posted the image to show that bending a cone wrench was not going to be of help, unless one could make it limber like a clock in a Salvador Dali painting.